ARMIN STROM – One Week – First Edition

 

ARMIN STROM –  One Week – First Edition 2023

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 ARMIN STROM UNVEILS THE ONE WEEK FIRST EDITION – THE SUCCESSOR TO ITS FIRST-EVER MANUFACTURE MOVEMENT

Biel/Bienne, Switzerland, 29 August, 2023: More architectural, more open and housed in a new streamlined steel case with an integrated bracelet: Armin Strom completely reimagines one of its most seminal models from the last decade, the One Week, in an all-new form. Debuting as the One Week First Edition limited to 25 examples, it further solidifies Armin Strom’s position as a full-fledged independent manufacture producing unprecedented mechanical marvels.

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Maker of movements. The true horology connoisseur’s manufacture. Armin Strom stands out as one of the handful of exclusive independent watch brands that can pride itself in conceiving, developing and building some of the most exceptional mechanical watches around. Back in 2010, the brand unveiled its very first watch called the One Week featuring a movement that was developed and manufactured in house. 

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Equipped with a seven-day power reserve and designed with symmetrical harmony in mind, the One Week would lay the foundation for many of Armin Strom’s groundbreaking developments, placing the brand on the radar of discerning collectors. Now, Armin Strom is revisiting its very first calibre in an all-new design and construction that’s bound to make the One Week a staple model in the brand’s lineup.

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As Armin Strom founder Serge Michel noted, “When we decided to revisit the One Week, we knew from the beginning that we wanted it to be an all-occasions watch: sporty yet sophisticated, intricate yet legible, and filled with immersive little details that even the most demanding collector can appreciate. It was also important for us that the new One Week be instantly recognizable as an Armin Strom by integrating and further refining many of the design elements that have become characteristic of our more recent creations.”

A RADICAL CONSTRUCTION

As devotees of transparent horology, Armin Strom makes it a point to always feature kinetic mechanical elements on the dial side. The One Week First Edition takes this core Armin Strom trait a step further. Completely reengineered and redesigned, the manual-winding movement is as sculptural as it gets. Form, function, aesthetics and ergonomics are all harmoniously brought into the foreground, resulting in a piece of otherwise traditional horology executed in a dynamic, radical way.

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“The One Week from 2010 holds a special place for the Armin Strom manufacture as it was the first movement we completely developed and built in-house. We went far beyond simply giving it a facelift, as it is in fact an entirely redesigned and reengineered movement. From the two barrels working in series for better isochronism to the 3D power reserve display and the increased beat rate, the new One Week is definitely a milestone achievement for our team in Biel,” remarked Claude Greisler, master watchmaker and co-founder of the revitalised Armin Strom.

FAR MORE THAN A REMAKE

True to its name and just like its predecessor, the One Week delivers an impressive seven-day power reserve. But that’s where the similarities end. The new manual-winding ARM21 calibre features two mainspring barrels, which work in series to provide consistent levels of energy to the gear train. 

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Held by two finger-style bridges, the barrels are symmetrically arranged on the right portion of the completely open dial. The manual winding ritual takes on a hypnotic choreography, as the motion of two ratchet wheels winding up the two barrels in opposite directions is entirely visible from the dial side.

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One of the most distinctive features of the new One Week is its power reserve indicator. Keeping with the architectural depth of the movement, the power reserve is indicated by a cone system, inspired by pocket watches. This consists of a mirror-polished cone, which is driven by a conical gear on the opposite side of the dial.

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New movement, new beat rate. Another major evolution in the new One Week is the oscillating frequency of the regulating organ. As it is designed as an all-occasions watch that can take on dynamic activities, the beat rate has been increased from 2.5 Hz to 3.5 Hz (25,200 vph). This higher frequency, which offers a more stable chronometric performance, meant that the entire gear train had to be recalculated and reconfigured.

THE PURSUIT OF BALANCE AND DEPTH

Another surprising first for Armin Strom is the placement of the hour and minute hands. Normally, Armin Strom watches feature offset hour and minute hands, either on a subsidiary dial as small hands or slightly off from the centre as large hands. In the One Week, the faceted hour and minute hands filled with Super-LumiNova are perfectly positioned in the centre of the open dial, further enhancing its visual balance.

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In fact, compared to the previous generation of the One Week, which featured a partially open dial to expose the movement, the new One Week was conceived to be much more three-dimensional. It totally foregoes a traditional dial, instead adopting a contemporary architecture, with various movement elements positioned in such a way that they can be explored from many angles. The bridge holding the hands has been designed with a geometric form to rise above the mainplate. 

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Keeping legibility optimal, the movement is surrounded by a chapter ring set with baton indices filled with Super-LumiNova. The small seconds at 9 o’clock are displayed on a small black dial, emblazoned with the brand’s “AS” logo.

ALL IN THE EXECUTION

Like all Armin Strom creations, from the purest to the most complex, the One Week is a masterclass in haute horlogerie hand-finishing. Straight and circular grained surfaces, chamfered and polished bevels, Geneva-striped plates and polished screws and sinks are clearly applied by expert hands. The One Week First Edition stands out in particular with its cool light blue PVD-coloured mainplate and bridges.

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The One Week’s micromechanical sculpture of a movement is housed in a suitably contemporary case. Crafted in stainless steel, it measures 41 mm in width and only 10.6 mm in height, surprisingly compact proportions for a calibre of such intense depth. Paired with an integrated steel bracelet consisting of “H”-shaped satin-brushed and polished links, the overall design is holistic with an emphasis on ergonomics to make for a perfect everyday wear piece full of mechanical intrigue.

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The One Week First Edition is limited to 25 pieces and will be delivered with an extended warranty period of 10 years, instead of Armin Strom’s usual 5-year warranty. It will also be distinguished from future editions with its light blue PVD coloured mainplate and bridges.

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TECHNICAL CHARACTERISTICS

Model:    One Week – First Edition

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Reference no. ST23-OW.FE

Movement
Armin Strom manufacture Calibre ARM21
Winding mechanism: manual winding
Regulating system: flat hairspring with a variable inertia balance wheel
Power reserve: 7 days
Dimensions: 36.60 mm × 6.00 mm
Frequency: 3.5 Hz (25,200 vph)
Jewels: 35
Number of components: 194
Indications: Hours, minutes, small second
Case
Stainless steel
Sapphire crystal and case back with anti-reflective treatment
Diameter: 41.00 mm
Height: 10.60 mm
Water resistance: 10 ATM
Dial
Black minute ring and small-second dial, numbers and indexes with Super-LumiNova® filling
Hands: faceted polished hands and Super-LumiNova® filling
Strap
Stainless steel with a double folding clasp

🔰 Limited to 25 pieces

🔴Price: CHF 32,000 / EUR 37,000 / GBP 32,000 / USD 34,000 💰

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Press releases - 2023
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ARMIN STROM AG |
Bözingenstrasse 46
CH-2502 Biel-Bienne | Switzerland
Tel. +41 (0)32 343 33 44
Fax +41 (0) 32 343 33 40
info@arminstrom.com
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For more information relating to this press release or to Armin Strom:
Bettina Fleury, Armin Strom AG,
Tel. +41 32 343 33 44, b.fleury@arminstrom.com
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De Bethune – DB28 XP Kind of Blue Edition

De Bethune – CURRENT DB28 XP ‘Kind Of Blue’ Titanium Limited Edition 2023

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Blending the timeless elegance of the DB28XP with the captivating charm of the DB28 Kind of Blue to create the new DB28XP Kind of Blue, an exceptional timepiece that embodies the perfect fusion of tradition and innovation.

A limited edition of 25 pieces.

[Geneva, August 29, 2023] - On the occasion of the 2023 Geneva Watch Days, De Bethune unveils the new DB28XP Kind of Blue. The independent watchmaker is proud to announce the latest addition to its collection of iconic timepieces. 

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This new creation is the result of the union between the proven elegance of the DB28XP and the timeless charm of the DB28 Kind of Blue, offering watch enthusiasts an exceptional piece that harmoniously combines tradition and innovation.

A natural evolution of excellence

The DB28XP Kind of Blue is the natural evolution of two iconic models from De Bethune: the DB28XP and the DB28 Kind of Blue. 

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It embodies the best of both worlds by combining the sleek design and refinement of the DB28XP with a completely blue look, inspired by the DB28 Kind of Blue and bearing the Manufacture's signature."

A captivating dial

Here, it's all about levels of interpretation, reliefs, and the interplay of light with shadows and reflections. Crafted from blued titanium, the watch reveals an architectural fusion of space, time, and light at first glance. Its deep and luminous blue is achieved through the natural oxidation of the material, making each watch a unique work of art.

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The dial, entirely made of Microlight, reimagines and modernizes traditional guilloché technique. On its expansive flat surface, this technique gains new meaning and enhances the structure. By playing with shadow and light, it adds depth and delivers a more architectural and dynamic result. The overall effect becomes more contemporary.

Ultra-thin according to De Bethune

De Bethune opened a chapter in the world of ultra-thin watches in 2020 with the launch of the DB28XP, celebrating ten years of mechanical and aesthetic research and work. In his pursuit of an ultra-thin timepiece, Denis Flageollet envisioned it as both a technical and aesthetic challenge — the complexity of slimness, an adventure that demands precision and harmony between design and constraints.

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As if by fate, the DB28XP has now become an embodiment of beauty, an elegance that epitomizes purity in its most absolute form.

All of De Bethune's watchmaking expertise

The manual-winding movement DB2115v12 is equipped with the De Bethune balance wheel, visible through the dial thanks to its opening at 6 o'clock. 

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It is the result of De Bethune's constant physical and mathematical approach to improve its operation. It benefits from the latest advancements, with a not overly large diameter, made of titanium and fitted with small gray gold weights placed externally, providing it with remarkable inertia, reliability, and regulating quality.

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Equipped with the renowned De Bethune hairspring, this tiny, extremely thin spring considered the heart of the mechanical watch has been designed to keep its center of gravity precisely in the center by using a flat curve fixed on the outside of the hairspring. Variations in the thickness of the blade contribute to nearly perfect concentric development. 

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Among the numerous advantages are reduced height, improved adjustment of concentricity quality, finer balance wheel adjustment, eliminating the need for pins, and the curved shape even acts as a shock absorber in case of impact.

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Finally, the internal structure of the material remains intact, as it has been neither stressed nor bent. Through these various tried and continually developing enhancements, De Bethune has increased the power reserve efficiency by +20%, bringing it to a total of 6 days, visible through the sapphire glass case back, allowing connoisseurs to marvel at the complexity and beauty of each component.

Equally visible and geometrically positioned relative to the caliber's mainplate, the assembly is protected by the exclusive triple shock-absorbing system. De Bethune was not only the first to design a bridge held from both sides in a symmetrical manner, which keeps the balance wheel perfectly in place, but also to add two shock absorbers at each end, in addition to the balance wheel's own shock absorber. 

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Hence the name 'triple shock absorber,' which, with its springs instead of screws mounted on perfectly polished axes, effectively absorbs and dampens violent impacts.

Comfort and innovation

Like all models in its collection, the DB28XP Kind of Blue never fails to surprise us with the lightweight nature of its case, entirely crafted from polished blue-tinged grade 5 titanium with a microlight caseband, mounted on mobile cradles that adapt to the size and various movements of the wrist, a patented De Bethune system. A more curved caseband, following the wrist's lines. 

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The Microlight finish of the mainplate is echoed on the sides, extending to the outer edge of the caseband, a meticulous and challenging task to achieve in the absence of simple geometric elements. The ensemble is completed with an alligator strap with a titanium buckle, contributing to the practical and comfortable wear of this timepiece. 

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TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS

Collection  CURRENT

Name:  DB28 XP Kind of Blue

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 Reference: DB28XPB

🔰Limited edition of 25 pieces

Case
    Material: Polished grade 5 titanium with “microlight” case middle
    Diameter: 43 mm
    Thickness: 8.5 mm
    Lugs: Polished grade 5 titanium floating lugs – De Bethune Patent (2006)
    Crystal: Sapphire (1,800 Vickers hardness) with double anti-reflective coating
    Caseback: Screwed case back in blued grade 5 polished titanium that opens on a linear power reserve indicator
    Sapphire (1,800 Vickers hardness) with double anti-reflective coating
    Water-resistant to 30 meters (3 ATM)
Dial and hands
    Blued grade 5 polished titanium hours ring with polished rose gold spherical hour-markers
    Blued circular satin-brushed grade 5 titanium minutes ring
    Blued grade 5 polished titanium barrel bridge and blued triangular central bridge guards with straight-grained chamfered contours
    Titanium dial base with “microlight” decoration centred on the balance – De Bethune Innovation (2007)
    Polished rose gold hands
Movement
    Caliber DB2115v12
    Mechanical hand-wound movement
    Adjustment: Winding and setting the time by means of the crown (2 positions)
    Diameter: 30 mm
    Number of parts: 247
    Number of jewels: 36
    Frequency: 28'800 vph (4 Hz)
    Power reserve: 6 days, ensured by a self-regulating twin barrel – De Bethune Innovation (2004)
    Adornment: Hand-crafted finishing and decoration 
 Function
Hours, Minutes, Power reserve on the back
Specificities
    Titanium balance with white gold inserts, optimised for temperature differences and air penetration – De Bethune Patent (2016)
    "De Bethune" balance-spring with flat terminal curve De Bethune Patent (2006)
    Silicon escape wheel
    Triple pare-chute shock-absorbing system – De Bethune Innovation (2005)
Strap and buckle
    Strap: Extra-supple alligator leather with alligator lining
    Buckle: Blued grade 5 polished titanium buckle and pin

🔰Limited edition of 25 pieces

🔴Price: 115,020 EUR / US $ 122,950 💰

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Press release -- Geneva 2023
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De Bethune Geneva Office 
25 Grand-Rue 1204 Geneva
Switzerland
Tel: +41 22 310 22 71
Fax: +41 22 310 33 40
Contact: mailto:press@debethune.com

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