Wednesday, July 26, 2023

PANERAI – Luminor Quaranta Luna Rossa 40 mm

OFFICINE PANERAI – Luminor Quaranta Bitempo Luna Rossa and Luminor Quaranta Steel DLC Luna Rossa Stainless Steel 40 mm - 2023

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With the 37th edition of the Americas Cup on the horizon, set to take place in autumn next year, the teams are well into their preparations. However, it’s not all gruelling sea races as team Luna Rossa Prada Pirelli from Italy are celebrating their multi-year collaboration with Panerai with a fleet of new watches ahead of the big competition. This is the Panerai Luminor Luna Rossa 2023 collection for the Americas Cup.

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There are five timepieces in the collection including a time and date model, a GMT, a chronograph and a his & her pair of Luminor Dues. Since there’s a lot to discuss, let’s trim the sails and get under way.

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As part of the Luminor Quaranta sub-collection, this Luna Rossa model has a 40mm diameter case, putting it solidly in the small to mid-size end of the spectrum. It has the characteristic cushion shape that will be familiar to anyone who’s ever looked at a Panerai before with its circular bezel and the Luminor’s signature crown guard. As the name suggests, it’s made from steel with a DLC (diamond-like carbon) coating that makes it super tough and gives it a black colouration.

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 The dial is relatively understated with a classy sunray finishing in a dark aquatic blue. It follows the navy and red colour scheme of the Luna Rossa by pairing that blue dial with a red small seconds hand at 9 o’clock, which is structurally mirrored at 3 by the date aperture. 

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It’s also a sandwich dial, which means there are two layers with the bottom layer coated in lume and the top layer featuring cut-out markers to reveal the lume below.  That’s how the recessed look of the indexes is achieved.

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Beneath the surface of the Luminor Quaranta Steel DLC Luna Rossa for 2023 is the P.900 calibre, which is one that we’ll see multiple times in this article. It’s an automatic piece with a 3-day power reserve, high frequency of 28,800 vph and Incabloc anti-shock device. It’s priced at £8,000, which makes it the median price of the five watches here.

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The Luna Rossa 2023 collection is the Luminor Quaranta BiTempo Luna Rossa. Once again, it’s a Quaranta, which means it’s got a 40mm cushion case in steel this. However, this time the grey colour of the steel is left visible with a combination of polished and brushed finishes. 

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The contrast between the bare steel and DLC version is interesting because the finishing on the exposed metal gives it a more luxurious appearance without giving up too much in terms of durability.

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Although, more important than the case in this instance is the dial, which is where the titular BiTempo complication is found. BiTempo roughly means ‘two time’ and in wristwatch terms that equates to a dual time zone function, evidenced by the presence of two hour hands on the central hand stack. 

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It’s a useful complication for regular travellers who need to keep track of the time in multiple places around the world. For sailors travelling the globe, its application is obvious.

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Powering this edition is the P.900/GMT calibre, a modified version  of the P.900 with that additional GMT module. GMT is another name for dual time zone functions except that GMT watches traditionally use a 24-hour scale for their secondary zone while the BiTempo uses a 12-hour system. 

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 Beyond that, it has the same specs as the standard P.900, including crucially the 3-day power reserve. That also means it only has a slightly higher price than the non-GMT version, at US 9,600 $.

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TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS

 Collection: Luminor

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 Model: PAM 01408  Luminor Quaranta Steel DLC Luna Rossa – 40mm

Movement 
Automatic mechanical, P.900 calibre, 
12 ½ lignes, 4.2 mm thick, 23 jewels, 28,800 alternations/hour.  
Incabloc® anti-shock device. One barrel. 171 components
Functions: Hours, Minutes, Small Seconds, Date.
Power Reserve: 3 days
Case
Diameter 40mm, B rushed Steel DLC,
Brushed Steel with DLC coating bezel,
Brushed Steel DLC caseback. 
Sapphire crystal
Waterproof: 10 bar (~100 meters) Officine Panerai is not the owner of the Super-LumiNova®, Incabloc®, Glucydur® and PEEK trademarks
Dial
Blue sun-brushed with luminous Arabic numerals and  hour markers. 
Date at 3 o’clock and small seconds at 9 o’clock
Strap
Bi-material rubber/textile Luna Rossa dark blue,
STD, 22/20, BA. Trapezoidal brushed steel, 20mm,
PAM Click Release System buckle

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TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS

Collection: Luminor

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Model: PAM 01404  Luminor Quaranta Bitempo Luna Rossa – 40mm

MOVEMENT
Automatic mechanical, P.9010/GMT calibre,
Executed entirely by Panerai, 13¾ lignes, 6.0mm thick,
31 jewels, Glucydur® balance, 28,800 alternations/hour.
Incabloc® anti-shock device.
Power reserve 3 days, two barrels. 199 components
FUNCTIONS
Minutes, Hours, GMT12H, Small seconds, Calendar aperture
CASE
Brushed stainless Steel
Diameter 40 mm,
Polished stainless Steel bezel
Back: Screw, titanium with black coating.
See-through sapphire crystal and steel
Water-resistance: 10 bar (~ 100 metres)
DIAL
Blue sun-brushed with luminous Arabic numerals and hour markers
Date at 3 o’clock, small seconds at 9 o’clock
STRAP
Bi-material rubber/textile Luna Rossa dark blue
Polyester, POLYURETHANE, Rubber, 22.0/20.0 Standard size
Buckle: Stainless Steel, 20mm, Luminor 40-42mm PAM Click Release System buckle
Trapezoidal Classic polished steel-titanium, 20mm

🔴 Price: US $ 9,600💰

 

 
*Officine Panerai is not the owner of the Glucydur® and KIF Parechoc® trademarks.
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Press release - 2023
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Monday, July 24, 2023

A. Lange & Sohne – LANGE 1 TIME ZONE Platinum

A. Lange & Sohne LANGE 1 TIME ZONE Platinum  2023

New model ‒ now in platinum

Shanghai, Dubai, Glashütte: with the LANGE 1 TIME ZONE, you literally have the world on your wrist. It displays the time at home and in another time zone at one glance. Ring-shaped day/night displays and the daylight-saving time indication for the second time zone expand the already high degree of functionality. 

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This year, A. Lange & Söhne launches a new edition of this intuitive time-zone watch in 950 platinum with a rhodium-coloured dial. The monochrome colour combination adds a timeless elegance to the technical sophistication and underlines the aspiration of the Saxon watch manufactory to push the boundaries and cut its own path.

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The simultaneous display of two zone times is one of the most useful additional functions in precision watchmaking and is highly valued by globally interconnected watch connoisseurs. In 2005, A. Lange & Söhne endowed this complication with a distinctive face in the LANGE 1 TIME ZONE: in addition to home time, this unique timepiece displayed the time in a second zone, easily selected thanks to the cities on the city ring representing 24 time zones.

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In its second generation, presented in 2020, the cosmopolitan model was equipped with the new manufacture calibre L141.1, featuring an intuitive indication of daylight-saving time, thus further expanding the functionality of this watch.  Now, the new edition of the LANGE 1 TIME ZONE showcases a 950-platinum case combined with a rhodium-coloured dial made of solid silver, resulting in a decidedly classic look, a first for this model.

Sophisticated time-zone mechanism in a lucid design

The new edition of the LANGE 1 TIME ZONE presented three years ago, once again embodied the innovative power and creativity of the Lange watchmakers, complemented by the aesthetically appealing design. Here too, the objective was to combine sophisticated micromechanical engineering with a timeless design while assuring superb legibility. By placing the ring with the 24 reference cities on the periphery, the harmonious display arrangement in the distinctive, off-centre dial architecture of the LANGE 1 watch family is not impaired. Home time and zone time, the outsize date and the power-reserve indicator ‒ all displays are clearly visible at any given time.

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While the larger time circle indicates home time, the smaller time circle displays the time in a second time zone. When the corrector button at 8 o’clock is actuated, the city ring switches in the easterly direction by one time zone. At the same time, the hour hand in the small subsidiary dial advances by one hour and now indicates the zone time of the city ‒ and corresponding time zone ‒ at which the gold applied arrow marker points. 

The indication of daylight-saving time constitutes a refined technical feature. A colour segment in the arrow indicates whether the selected city and time zone implement daylight-saving time. If this is the case, the small aperture is filled in red. If standard time is observed in this location all year round, the background remains unchanged.

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To distinguish between day and night in both time zones, the LANGE 1 TIME ZONE features coloured ring-shaped day/night indicators linked to the hour hands. They are located in the centre of each time circle and inform the wearer whether the respective time indication is valid for the first or the second half of the day. When the hour hand is in the dial-coloured area, the display refers to the interval between 6 a.m. and 6 p.m.; when the blue background appears, it refers to the interval between 6 p.m. and 6 a.m.

Unique synchronisation mechanism

Additionally, the LANGE 1 TIME ZONE is endowed with an ingeniously designed synchronisation mechanism that allows the zone time to be transferred from the smaller subsidiary dial to the larger one, thus making it possible to define a new main time as home time. 

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When the crown is pulled in the second position, the times of both zones can be adjusted synchronously. However, if the time-zone correction button is pressed and held, the hour hand of the zone-time dial will be stopped in its position. Now, the defined new main time can be set independently of the zone time. Finally, it may be necessary to correct the outsize date, which is connected with main time, by actuating the date correction button at 10 o’clock.

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The LANGE 1 TIME ZONE is an expressive manifestation of our manufactory’s efforts to challenge conventions and break new ground in precision watchmaking through innovative advancements and constructions,” explains Lange-CEO Wilhelm Schmid. “Only in proceeding in this way, do we succeed in developing things from the ground up and building watches that offer unique functions and inimitable designs. Progress and tradition go hand in hand to accommodate our quest for perfection.”

 Manufacture calibre L141.1

The heart of the LANGE 1 TIME ZONE, the manufacture calibre L141.1, assures a power reserve of 72 hours, despite having only one mainspring barrel. Further technical details include a classic screw balance and a freely oscillating balance spring crafted in-house and calibrated for a frequency of 21,600 semi-oscillations per hour. 

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Lange-typical quality hallmarks such as the three-quarter plate made of untreated German silver, screwed gold chatons, blued screws, an elaborate whiplash precision index adjuster as well as a balance cock and an intermediate-wheel cock ‒ both hand-engraved ‒ are visible through the sapphire-crystal caseback. 

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The hand-crafted decoration of the movement, which is assembled twice, reflects A. Lange & Söhne’s high standards in every single detail.

Currently three model versions

The dimensions of the watch have not been modified: the case boasts a diameter of 41.9 millimetres and a height of 10.9 millimetres. 

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In addition to the models with white gold/black and pink gold/argenté case/dial combinations, the LANGE 1 TIME ZONE is now also available in 950 platinum with a rhodié dial.

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Technical Specifications

Model: LANGE 1 TIME ZONE Platinum

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Ref. 136.025

Movement
Lange manufacture calibre L141.1, manually wound, crafted to the most exacting Lange quality standards, decorated and assembled by hand; precision-adjusted in five positions; plates and bridges made of untreated German silver; balance and intermediate-wheel cocks engraved by hand

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    No. of movement parts: 448
    No. of jewels: 38
    No. of screwed gold chatons: 3
    Escapement: Lever escapement

    Oscillator: Shock-resistant screw balance; superior-quality balance spring manufactured in-house, frequency of 21,600 semi-oscillations per hour; precision beat adjustment mechanism with lateral setscrew and whiplash spring 

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    Power reserve: 72 hours when fully wound
Movement dimensions
Diameter: 34.1 millimetres; height: 6.7 millimetres
Functions: 

Home time and zone time, each with a ring-shaped day/night indicator; subsidiary seconds dial with stop seconds; city ring for adjustment of the second time zone with daylight-saving time indication; outsize date for home time; UP/DOWN power-reserve indicator
    Operating elements: Crown for winding the watch and setting the time; one button each for correcting the outsize date and setting the second time zone
Case
950 platinum
Diameter: 41.9 millimetres; height: 10.9 millimetres
Crystal and transparent caseback: Sapphire crystal (Mohs hardness 9)
Dial
Solid silver, rhodié
Hands and appliques
Rhodium gold
Strap
Hand-stitched alligator leather, black
Buckle: Prong buckle in 950 platinum

 
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Press Release - 2023
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Contact information for the media
Arnd Einhorn, Director Press and PR
* Tel.: +49 (0)35053 44 5505
E-mail: presse@lange-soehne.com
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