Tuesday, July 4, 2023

FERDINAND BERTHOUD – Chronometre FB 3 Only Watch 2023 Unique Piece

 
FERDINAND BERTHOUDCHRONOMÉTRIE FB 3 Only Watch 2023 Unique Piece

 HRONOMÈTRE FB 3ONLY WATCH

For its second participation in Only Watch, Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud is offering a new version of the FB3 collection: a one-of-a-kind model presented in a patinated bronze case, a tribute to the ‘Master Watchmaker’ title granted to Ferdinand Berthoud just 270 years ago.

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The five one-of - a - kind models in the FB 1R Regulator collection unveiled in 2018 generated considerable enthusiasm at the time of their launch. Their bronze cases featured five different patinas, as if they had just emerged after a long stay in the underwater depths – a tribute to the world of onboard marine chronometers once developed by Ferdinand Berthoud himself.

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Since then, Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud has unveiled new movements, the latest of which powers the FB 3 collection. The conditions were therefore ripe for the creation of a model that would unite these latest developments: a one-of - a - kind timepiece in patinated bronze, driven by a balance with a cylindrical balance-spring chronometer-certified by the COSC. Thus emerged the idea of the Chronomètre FB 3 "Only Watch", which will be put up for bidding at the eponymous auction to be held in Geneva on 5 November.

One-of-a-kind anniversary model

Several months of preparation and testing were necessary to achieve the patinated bronze case of the Chronomètre FB 3 Only Watch. The colour and nuances are unprecedented and evoke to the discerning gaze the patina that naturally develops on the copper alloys of the precision and navigation instruments supplied by Ferdinand Berthoud during the 18 t h century.

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This patina symbolises the passage of time and celebrates an anniversary: in 1753, exactly 270 years ago, Ferdinand Berthoud received the ‘Master Watchmaker’ title, at the age of just 26. This one- of - a - kind anniversary watch will be of fered at the tenth edition of Only Watch. This is a rare opportunity, as the current capacities of the Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud workshops only allow for the production of around 30 timepieces in this collection per year.

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Beating inside the FB 3 "Only Watch" model is the world’s only calibre with a cylindrical balance- spring of ficially chronometer- certified by the COSC, a clear tribute to the quest for precision initiated by Ferdinand Berthoud. Many months of research, testing and fine-tuning were necessary to define the number of coils and the geometry of the terminal curve at the attachment points.

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This new mechanical hand - wound movement stems from more than three years of research and development. Appearing at 9 o'clock, the three main escapement organs – the balance-wheel, pallet - lever and escape-wheel – are thus individualised, distinct and prominent. 

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This ample space dedicated to the regulating organ enables its operation to be admired in full, and the cylindrical balance- spring to be seen beating throughout the three-day power reserve, including through a large por thole created in the case middle at 9 o'clock.

Colour filiation

The finishing associated with the FB 3 "Only Watch" model (ref . FB 3SPC. 5) is tailored to reflect the colour codes of the 2023 edition of this charity auction. More than 100 hours of work were required to decorate the movement, which features 3N yellow gilded components. The blue colour is picked up on the gold hands with CVD treatment. 

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Pink hues are found on the jewels visible on the dial side. Two straps will be delivered with this one- of - a - kind model: an aged calf leather strap recalling the patina of the case; and a dark green alligator strap in harmony with the Only Watch 2023 colour char t. The caseback features a special "ONLY WATCH PIECE UNIQUE" engraving, recalling the exceptional character of this creation.

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TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS


Model:  CHRONOMÈTRE FB 3 Bronze “Only Watch” 2023 Unique Piece

 Click, to see the large size. BIG FOTO  

 Ref. FB 3SPC.5 

CASE

  • Round case in brown patinated bronze with a transparent sapphire ‘porthole’ at 9 o’clock

Total diameter: 42.30 mm
Thickness: 9.43 mm
Water resistance: 30 metres
Crown diameter: 8.50 mm
Crown in brown patinated bronze with FB logo in titanium
Exhibition back in sandblasted titanium fitted with a glare-proofed sapphire crystal pane
Domed sapphire crystal glare-proofed on both sides
DIAL
Eggshell-coloured peripheral inner bezel ring for the hours and minutes, in sandblasted silver-toned brass
Eggshell-coloured seconds subdial at 6 o’clock, in sandblasted silver-toned brass
Sandblasted and 3N gilded visible components of Calibre FB-SPC
Hands
Facetted and skeletonised and open-tipped hours and minutes hands in 18-carat gold with blue CVD treatment
Seconds hand with counterweight in 18-carat gold with blue CVD treatment
Arrow-shaped power-reserve hand in 18-carat gold with blue CVD treatment 

 FUNCTIONS
• Central display of the hours and minutes, seconds at 6 o’clock and power reserve at 2 o’clock

Click, to see the large size. BIG FOTO

MOVEMENT

Mechanical hand-wound ...................................................................................................Calibre FB-SPC
Diameter.......................................................................................................................................37.30 mm
Thickness .......................................................................................................................................6.84 mm
Lignes ....................................................................................................................................................15’’’
Jewels ........................................................................................................................................................ 47
Frequency ........................................................................................................................21,600 vph (3 Hz)
Power reserve ................................................................................................................................ 72 hours
Number of components ........................................................................................................................230
Number of bridges ....................................................................................................................................16

TECHNICAL CHARACTERISTICS

• Slip-spring barrel (automatic uncoupling when maximum power reserve is reached)
• Variable-inertia balance with four fine-adjustment screws and 12 load screws
• Cylindrical balance-spring with hand-crafted Berthoud terminal curves
• Swiss lever escapement
• Crown-activated stop-seconds mechanism
• Mainplate and bridges in sandblasted nickel silver
• Hand-finished to the highest watchmaking standards

Officially chronometer-certified by the COSC


Strap

  • Two straps (125 x 70 mm – other sizes available on request)

Dark green alligator leather strap
Chestnut brown aged calfskin leather

  • 18 mm pin buckle in sandblasted titanium

🔰Limited Edition to 1 piece
Limitation: Unique piece for Only Watch 2023

 🔴Price    Lot 22    Estimated at CHF 160,000 - CHF 180,000 💰

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www.OnlyWatch.com
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Press Release - 2023
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Chronométrie FERDINAND BERTHOUD SA
Rue des Moulins 20
Case postale 128
2114 Fleurier, Val-de-Travers (NE)
Switzerland
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www.facebook.com - Ferdinand Berthoud 
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www.FerdinandBerthoud.ch

Monday, July 3, 2023

F.P.Journe – Chronometre Furtif Bleu Only Watch 2023

 

F.P.JOURNEChronomètre Furtif Bleu Tantalum Only Watch 2023

 Click, to see the large size. BIG FOTO  

Geneva - June 29, 2023 - For its fifth participation in Only Watch, F.P.Journe presents a unique model designed exclusively for the occasion, the Chronomètre Furtif Bleu.

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A world premiere, a complete Tantalum case and bracelet dress this unique watch made especially for Only Watch, with an 18K rose Gold movement.

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The Chronomètre Furtif takes its name from the difficulty of reading the time if the watch is not facing you, as the blue enamel dial reveals the frosted numerals only in the reflection of light. 

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In addition, the moon phase and power reserve indications are integrated into the movement and visible only on the back. It is therefore a watch whose indications can be enjoyed only by its owner.

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At the heart of this watch is a new hand-wound mechanical movement, Calibre 1522 in 18K rose Gold with direct central seconds, a first for F.P.Journe.

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TECHNICAL CHARACTERISTICS

Collection:  Only Watch

Model:  Chronomètre Furtif Bleu

 Click, to see the large size. BIG FOTO    

 

Ref.  CFB_OW23

Movement
Calibre 1522
Manual winding, 38 turns of the crown
18K rose Gold
Dimensions of the movement
Overall diameter: 33.50 mm
Overall height: 5.90 mm
Height of winding system: 2.20 mm
Diameter of stem thread: S0.90 mm
Balance
Balance with 4 inertia weights
Flat Anachron microflamed spring
Mobile stud holder
Free-sprung balance
Nivatronic laser-welded to the collet
Pinned GE stud
Frequency: 21600 V/H, 3 Hz
Inertia: 10.10mg*cm2
Angle of lift: 52°
Amplitude: 12 h dial up: 320°
24 h dial up: 280°
Main Characteristics
Time setting in position 3 and moon in position 2 of the crown.
Escapement: Linear lever escapement 15 teeth

Click, to see the large size. BIG FOTO   

Indications
  • Dial: hours, minutes and seconds in the center
  • Back: moon phase at 6 h and power reserve at 12 h

Dial
Translucent blue Grand Feu enamel with laser-engraved matt numerals and track
Matt blue hour and minute hands
Orange seconds hand
Autonomy 56 +/- 2 hours
Finishing
Baseplate partly circular grained
Steelwork with polished chamfers
Polished screw heads with chamfered slots
Pegs with polished rounded ends
Case
Tantalum
Diameter: 42 mm
Total height: 9.50
mm
Finishing: Sand-blasted case, polished and sand-blasted bezel, polished caseband decoration, polished chamfers
Bracelet
Tantalum 
3-row flat-link
Finish: sand-blasted with polished chamfers
Number of parts
Movement without dial: 197
Cased up with bracelet:
422
Jewels: 21

 🔰Edition
Limitation: Unique piece for Only Watch 2023

 🔴Prices    Lot 21      Estimated at CHF 200,000 - CHF 400,000 💰

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www.OnlyWatch.com
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Press release - 2023
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www.facebook.com - fpjourneofficial
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MONTRES JOURNE SA
Brigitte Bocquet-Makhzani - Communication
International PR & Events Manager
17, rue de l’Arquebuse – 1204 Geneva – Switzerland
Tel : +41 (0)22 322 09 09
Fax : +41 (0)22 322 09 19
e-mail: bmakhzani@fpjourne.com
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www.F.P.Journe.com