Monday, May 1, 2023

F.P.Journe – FFC Platinum Edition

F.P.JOURNECLASSIQUE FFC Titanium Hand 42mm Platinum Automatic Edition 2023

 Click, to see the large size. BIG FOTO     

In anticipation of the production of a small series of a timepiece inspired by the FFC Blue prototype, a unique piece for Only Watch 2021, it seems useful to revisit its genesis and its unique way of reading the time, made possible by a hand whose fingers come to life as the hours pass.

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The story of how the FFC Blue was created is like a fairy tale and for this reason deserves to be told again for those who do not know it. It began in 2009 when Mrs. Eleanor Coppola, Francis Ford Coppola’s wife, gave her illustrious filmmaker husband the Chronomètre à Résonance, which she found chic and elegant. Delighted with the gift, he immediately sent an invitation to its creator to come and meet him at his “Inglenook” winery in the Napa Valley. When they met in 2012, they discussed the different principles of representing the passing of time and the filmmaker asked if a watchmaker had ever considered displaying the hours in the way the ancients used to give them, by counting them on their fingers. 

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The idea of ticking the 12 digits of the hours with 5 fingers had appealed to François-Paul who, in 2014, wanted to take up the challenge of inventing an animated hand capable of displaying it in the same way. His motivation led him to start prototyping the FFC Blue watch the same year, which was supposed to go on sale at Only Watch 2021.

History in motion

After having found, with Francis Ford Coppola, how to present the 12 digits of the hours with a single hand and 5 fingers, François-Paul set out to design a mechanism capable of adequately transcribing these digits into digital signs. 


To avoid falling into naturalism, this artist, who is known to have a passion for history, like one of his sons who today is a professional historian, chose to draw his inspiration from a drawing of a prosthesis made by the famous French barber-surgeon Ambroise Paré (1509/1510 -1590).

Click, to see the large size. BIG FOTO  For those not familiar with him, he is the one to whom we owe, thanks to his competence and understanding of the human body, undeniable progress in medicine. The mechanised hand found on the front of the FFC Blue is inspired by the one developed by this Renaissance physician.

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Initially thought in bronze by its inventor, the final hand for the watch was made of engraved titanium, used to reduce the weight of the moving components so as to not affect the energy consumption of the caliber, the Octa 1300 launched by the Manufacture F.P.Journe in 2001. As François-Paul points out, “The most important thing in watchmaking is what is least visible. In this case, it was a matter of getting five fingers to move with the least amount of effort”.

Managing the available energy

In order to use only the energy coming from the barrel, which ensures a power reserve of 5 days for the piece, the choice was made to install a “remontoir d’égalité” between the primary gear train and the display, as is done in the clocks of buildings when the hands to be moved are long and heavy. 

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Every hour, and for 40 minutes, the “remontoir d’égalité”, formed by a spring blade enclosed in a kind of barrel, a trigger and a sort of anchor mounted on one side on a wheel with an eccentric in its center, is rewound by the movement.

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On the hour, the mechanism described by François-Paul as a sort of escapement acting once an hour, is released so that the energy accumulated from the main barrel can, through the intermediary of this tangentially acting fork, set in motion the series of 10 cams whose purpose is to control the movement of the fingers of the hand. 

 Click, to see the large size. BIG FOTO 

Placed on the left side and visible between the rotating minutes ring mounted on a large extra-flat ball bearing with a fixed cursor placed at noon, they make one revolution in 12 hours, each one activating a series of springs and toggles acting on the rise and fall of the 4 fingers, but also the translation of the thumb. The shape of the cams, associated with the teeth of each one, acts on the fingers which are mounted on a steel sling and which move then, practically without friction, like a loom shuttle.

 Click, to see the large size. BIG FOTO 

Thanks to this ingenious system, the energy required to operate one finger, four fingers between 5 and 6 o’clock as well as between 9 and 10 o’clock, is always the same and calibrated so that it is done in complete safety and, above all, without affecting the chronometry of the regulating group.

Reinventing how time is displayed

By means of miniaturisation work pushed to the extreme and seven years of incessant labor spent making the whole thing reliable, the master, supported by the skills gathered within his manufacture, has managed to integrate all the components of the automatic caliber and this astonishing anthropomorphic mobile into a case measuring 42 mm in diameter and only 10,7 mm thick. 

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As a result, despite the complexity of the whole, this watch is no thicker than another model equipped with the same movement. 

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To achieve this exploit, François-Paul eliminated the dial and replaced the minute hand, which was impossible to use in the traditional way, with a rotating ring mounted on a large extra-flat ball bearing, as he did for the perpetual calendar of the Astronomic Souveraine. This modification made it possible to gain the few millimeters necessary for the placement of the articulated hand sculpted by a master engraver. 

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So, in the end, what does this high-flying timepiece bring to the table besides its original display? It proves that the best way to make a complicated watch is to think about how to save energy in order to make it work without having to add any. As François-Paul says, the watchmaker must have a light hand when designing a movement.

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In the end, the Octa caliber is perfect for this approach because it has a constant and linear force and torque for 5 days. By optimising the friction and using only the smoothest part of the spring, we find a very linear torque that allows adding functions without being afraid that everything will stop. Here’s the proof! 

 Click, to see the large size. BIG FOTO   

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TECHNICAL CHARACTERISTICS

Collection:  CLASSIQUE

Model:  FFC

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Ref.  FFC

Case
Platinum PT 950, unique case
Dimensions: Ø: 42 mm / Thickness: 10.70 mm.
Number of parts_
Movement without dial: 396
Cased up on leather strap: 436
Jewels: 63

Dial
Instantaneous digital hours indicated by the animated fingers of a Titanium hand
Rotating minutes dial
Mouvement
Calibre Automatic FFC 1300.3 in 18K rose Gold.
Number of components: Movement: 396
Unidirectional oscillating weight in 22K 5N Gold, engraved Ambroise Paré (1509-1590) & F.F.Coppola.
Functions & Complications: 2

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Dimensions of the movement_
Overall diameter: 34.20 mm
Casing-up diameter: 30.40 mm
Overall height: 8.10 mm
Height of winding system: 3.28 mm
Diameter of stem thread: S1.20 mm

Balancier_
Balance with four adjustable inertia weights
Anachron flat balance spring
Mobile stud holder
Free-sprung
Nivatronic laser soldered balance spring
Pinned GE stud
Slipping mainspring
Frequency:  21’600 V/h, 3Hz
Inertia:  10.10 mg*cm2
Angle of lift:  52°
Amplitude:
12h dial up: > 280°
90h dial up: > 220° 

Escapement_
In-line lever escapement, 15-tooth wheel
Main characteristics_
Two position crown:
Winding of the watch in position 1, clockwise
Correction of time in position 2, anti-clockwise
Autonomy
: 120 +/- 12 hours
Winding speed on a watch winder:
274 clockwise rotations per 24 hours
Finishing_
High grade
Circular stripes on the bridges
Titanium bridges with Titalyt® coating
Baseplate partly circular grained
Polished screw heads with chamfered slots
Pegs with polished rounded ends
Steelwork with polished chamfers

Bracelet
Alligator strap

Limitation: between 10 and 15 watches per year


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Press release - 2023
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MONTRES JOURNE SA
Brigitte Bocquet-Makhzani - Communication
International PR & Events Manager
17, rue de l’Arquebuse – 1204 Geneva – Switzerland
Tel : +41 (0)22 322 09 09
Fax : +41 (0)22 322 09 19
e-mail: bmakhzani@fpjourne.com
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www.F.P.Journe.com 

Saturday, April 29, 2023

TRILOBE – Une Folle Journee 2023

TRILOBE Une Folle Journée DUNE and DIAMANT Automatic Edition 2023

Launch of Une Folle Journée Dune
for Watches & Wonders 2023

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One year after the launch of its model Une Folle Journée, Trilobe offers a new interpretation, “Dune”, of its collection. For this new edition, the three iconic levitating rings, in permanent rotation, don a stormy grey dress.

Click, to see the large size. BIG FOTO 

The rings of the hours, minutes and seconds are tiered and fly at a 10.2mm height, a true watchmaking prowess. Projected in space and balanced by 9 pillars, Trilobe’s rings are each the result of a complex assembly.

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These three discs are highlighted by the singular colour of the bridges, for a creation both raw and delicate.


A tribute to Nuit Fantastique Dune

Emphasizing and sublimating the rings of time by a contrast of colours and materials, the bridges don their summer dress with a colour reminiscent of dune sand.

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The surface treatment of the bridges reveals the presence of the X-Centric calibre and creates the illusion of sand settled on the face of the movement. 
 
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The subtle tint of the bridges awakens under the light of the polished edges, like grains of sand in a desert lit by a radiant sun.

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For fans of 1930s vintage chic, this Dune edition is the rebirth of a fiery, flamboyant hue whose elegance has already proven itself.

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Designed for a titanium grade 5 or 18-carat rose gold case, the Dune edition of the collection Une Folle Journée pays tribute to the purity and sophistication of our model Nuit Fantastique Dune
 
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On the rose gold model, the shade of the bridges skilfully marries the delicacy of the rose gold for a refined creation.

The X-Centric calibre, automatic movement and hallmark of the brand 

The dial, open for the first time, offers a view on a technical motor assembly with 196 custom-made components and enables to savour the watchmaking
craftsmanship of an exceptional calibre.

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Une Folle Journée Dune is equipped with the X-Centric calibre, an automatic movement designed and developed exclusively by Trilobe. Integrated into the X-Centric calibre, the 6.49 mm thick micro-rotor movement combines finesse and technical performance.

Click, to see the large size. BIG FOTO 

Entirely revisited for the collection Une Folle Journée, the X-Centric calibre is taking shape around multi-tiered bridges and plates, whose sharp edges have been carefully polished by hand or with diamond tools to emphasize the microblasted treatment performed on their plane surfaces.

Trilobe enters the world
of High Jewellery

Trilobe favours complexity over simplicity, innovation over déjà vu, liberation over immobility, with 150 diamonds in motion.

Click, to see the large size. BIG FOTO   

One year after the launch of its collection Une Folle Journée, Trilobe takes its first step on the High Jewellery scene with a luminous and innovating piece, inspired by the ceiling of the Paris Opera house. 

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The three rotating rings are adorned with exceptional diamonds whose secret setting, invisible to the naked eye, was designed with the expertise of craftsmen from Rue de la Paix.

Click, to see the large size. BIG FOTO  This new creation showcases outstanding know-how. Two years of research & development were required to achieve this true prowess at the crossroads of High Watchmaking and High Jewellery.

A watchmaking and jewellery prowess

While preserving the elegance and extravagance of Une Folle Journée, Trilobe chose to set its symbolic
rings. A real technical challenge that would have been impossible to undertake without a complete
architectural overhaul of the piece. 

Click, to see the large size. BIG FOTO 

Thus, the rings were entirely redesigned to accommodate 150 baguette diamonds. An evolution of material was also essential to guarantee the performance and reliability of the movement.

A Trilobe signed setting 

The material as well as the thinness of the rings, providing a limited space for the precious stones, led the House to develop an innovative setting process in collaboration with expert gem-setters from Rue de la Paix, RJC certified. 

Click, to see the large size. BIG FOTO 

The 150 diamonds of the Hours, Minutes and Seconds are set through an invisible opening and then slide along the ring, thanks to a unique system developed exclusively by Trilobe.

Click, to see the large size. BIG FOTO 

The know-how of the gem-setter is combined with the expertise of a renowned diamond trader from Place Vendôme, RJC certified, to bring Une Folle Journée Diamant to life. 

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Carefully selected according to high quality and traceability standards, the 150 stones are meticulously diamond-cut to measure to fit perfectly the curves of Trilobe’s three iconic rings.

Trilobe finds its inspiration in the Garnier Opera house

Emblematic of the 7 art forms, the Garnier Opera House is a strong symbol for Trilobe, who never ceases to reflect its affinity for the arts through its creations.

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Look up to the sky to admire an 8-meter high chandelier whose splendour is undeniable. 314 lights, named the diamond belt, adorn the work of contemporary artist Marc Chagall

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The fresco is divided into 12 triangles and forms a circle that must be read by a 360° rotation. This mural was once controversial because of its audacity and avant-gardism. Yet today, it is considered as an indissociable element of the Opera house and subtly reflects the identity of Trilobe.

Click, to see the large size. BIG FOTO 

Une Folle Journée Diamant is available upon request with a platinum or rose gold case.

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TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS

Collection:  Nuit Fantastique

Reference:  UFJ02DD  

Click, to see the large size. BIG FOTO 

 Une Folle Journée Diamant Rose Gold  🔴Price:  EUR 192,000 €💰

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Reference:  UFJ04DA  

Click, to see the large size. BIG FOTO 

 Une Folle Journée Diamant Platinum  🔴Price:  EUR 204,000 €💰

Case
Platinum or 18-carat rose gold
Mirror-polished surfaces alternating with satin-brushed treatments
Brought lugs
Domed bezel with sapphire crystal and multi-layered
anti-reflective treatment (ardur) – 1.2 mm thickness
Anti-reflective sapphire back
Push button crown
Water-resistance tested to 3 bar (≈ 30 meters)
Dimensions
Thickness: 17.8 mm
Height: 10.2 mm
Diameter: 40.5 mm
Lug to lug: 48 mm
Lug width: 20 mm

Diamonds

  • 150 baguette diamonds (D,E,F – VVS+):
  • 70 on the hours ring, 50 on the minutes ring,
  • 30 on the seconds ring (~ 3,1 carats)

Movement
X-Centric calibre
Self-winding integrated mechanical calibre with micro-rotor
48 hours of power reserve
Balance frequency: 28’800 vph (4 Hz)
Thickness : 6.49 mm | Diameter : 35.2 mm
Functional rubies: 33
Total components: 196

Bridges plated with black-gold or gold 5N
Patent
A display concept composed of three devices
representing the hours, minutes & seconds
Functions
Hours by rotating ring and a fixed pointer
Hand-painted numerals
Strap
Alligator with a pin buckle in titanium or rose gold

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Reference:  UFJ02GD  

Click, to see the large size. BIG FOTO 

 Une Folle Journée DUNE Rose Gold 🔴Price:  EUR 35,500 €💰

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Reference:  UFJ01GD  

Click, to see the large size. BIG FOTO 

 Une Folle Journée DUNE Titanium  🔴Price:  EUR 23,500 €💰

Movement
Highly proprietary X-Centric module developed and manufactured by Jean-François Mojon, made by Le Cercle des Horlogers

Click, to see the large size. BIG FOTO

Around 48 hours of power reserve
Balance frequency: 28,800 vph/4 Hz
Functional rubies: 33
Total movement parts: 230
 Click, to see the large size. BIG FOTO

Case
Titanium or 18-carat rose gold
Mirror-polished surfaces alternating with satin-brushed treatments
Brought lugs
Domed bezel with sapphire crystal and multi-layered
anti-reflective treatment (ardur) – 1.2 mm thickness
Anti-reflective sapphire back
Push button crown
Water-resistance tested to 3 bar (≈ 30 meters)
Dimensions
Thickness: 17.8 mm
Height: 10.2 mm
Diameter: 40.5 mm
Lug to lug: 48 mm
Lug width: 20 mm

Movement
X-Centric calibre
Self-winding integrated mechanical calibre with micro-rotor
48 hours of power reserve
Balance frequency: 28’800 vph (4 Hz)
Thickness : 6.49 mm | Diameter : 35.2 mm
Functional rubies: 33
Total components: 196

Bridges plated with black-gold or gold 5N
Patent
A display concept composed of three devices representing the hours, minutes & seconds
Functions
Hours by rotating ring and a fixed pointer
Hand-painted numerals
Strap
Alligator with a pin buckle in titanium or rose gold

More information at watchesandwonders.com

April  2023

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