Wednesday, April 19, 2023

BREGUET – CLASSIQUE 7327 Quantieme Perpetuel Gold

BREGUET CLASSIQUE Quantième Perpétuel 7327 Moon Phase Gold Automatic 2023
 
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New Classique 7327
Contemporary elegance

 In the 1780s, Abraham-Louis Breguet enjoyed great success with his so-called perpétuelle watches equipped with an à secousses (moving) oscillating weight enabling the calibre to react to the wearer's body movements and thus automatically wind the mechanism as they walked. These watches often incorporated a calendar mechanism and it was also on these models that Breguet experimented with his first guilloché silvered dials.

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In 2023, Breguet pays tribute to it within its Classique collection through a reinterpretation of the perpetual calendar in two gold colours.

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The new Quantième Perpétuel 7327 by Breguet reflects the very essence of the brand: a timepiece that is simple to use for its wearer yet complex in its realisation. This fascinating watchmaking function born in the 18th century displays the exact date, taking into account the variable length of the months and the leap-year cycle. To accomplish this feat, the movement must have a four-year mechanical "memory" corresponding to 1,461 days.

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The mechanism is based on a gearing system from the hour’s wheel and a large central lever that drives the entire movement on a daily basis. For this reason, no less than 294 components are required to bring this model to life. One of Breguet's key objectives was to offer a light and comfortable timepiece and the Manufacture has thus opted for Calibre 502 with an additional calendar mechanism.

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At just 4.5 mm thick, the 502.3.P movement remains one of Breguet's thinnest. It is designed to provide a high level of performance despite its thinness. Its barrel is open, contributing to its slenderness while guaranteeing constant, powerful energy. Its gold oscillating weight is off-centred to provide maximum space for the movement's main components, enabling it to be integrated to a minimum thickness.

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This self-winding movement is rhodium-plated, beats at a frequency of 3 Hertz and has a 45-hour power reserve. It is equipped with a flat silicon balance-spring and an inverted straight-line escapement with silicon horns. Silicon has many properties, in addition to being resistant to corrosion and wear, it is insensitive to the influence of magnetic fields and improves the watch’s precision.

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Its movement, which can be admired through the sapphire case back, highlights a skill dear to Breguet: decoration. The gold oscillating weight is hand-engraved on a rose engine with a circular barleycorn motif, the bridges are adorned with Côtes de Genève, and the other components are finished with chamfered edges and likewise with Côtes de Genève. This highly precise craftsmanship is performed by the artisans in the Manufacture located in the heart of the Vallée de Joux.

A timepiece with an understated design

As fascinating on the movement side as on the dial, the new creation by Breguet features a timeless aesthetic, recalling the brand's distinctive features in a contemporary spirit. The dial is adorned with a Clous de Paris hobnail pattern. 

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Located between 1 and 2 o’clock, the moon phase has been designed to provide a strong sense of realism, notably thanks to its hand-hammered surface. Its sky is coated with a blue lacquer composed of spangles subtly revealing the stars depending on how the timepiece is turned.

Click, to see the large size. BIG FOTO  The day, date and year indicators are harmoniously entwined at the base of the dial. A quarter-circle bewteen 10 and 11 o’clock indicates the months via a retrograde hand. The hours and minutes are indicated by the traditional eccentric “moon” tip watch hands in blued steel. The secret Breguet signature, created by the founder in 1795, appears between 11 and 12 o'clock as well as between 12 and 1 o'clock.

Click, to see the large size. BIG FOTO  Finally, adjustments of the various dial indications are completed from several positions on the 39 mm case. A corrector stylus serves to adjust the day at 4 o'clock; the different moon phases between 4 and 5 o'clock, the date at 6 o'clock and finally the month and the year at 9 o'clock. The time is set via the crown located at 3 o'clock.

The Classique collection

Both functional and emblematic, the Classique collection faithfully illustrates the aesthetic codes dating back to the brand's origins. In addition to his talent as a watchmaker and inventor, Abraham-Louis Breguet was also one of the first designers well before the term was coined. When the company was founded in Paris in 1775, the baroque style was in vogue. He invented and introduced the neoclassical style to watchmaking.

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This aesthetic vision gave the dials an avant-garde look while making it easier to read the indications. He created the eccentric “moon” tip watch hands, the guilloché pattern and the off-centre dial, to name but a few. 

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The latter design was used on pocket watches from 1812 onwards and established the brand's DNA. Inspired by these creations, the 5327 Quantième Perpétuel joined the line-up in 2004. Its 2023 version is a contemporary embodiment while remaining faithful to the powerful signatures of the Classique line. Available in 18K white or rose gold, this new timepiece is paired with a midnight blue strap for the white gold model and a mysterious brown strap for the rose gold version.

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TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS
 
Collection  Classique 

Model:  Classique  7337 Quantième Perpétuel Gold

References    Ref. 7327BB/11/9VU and 7327BR/11/9VU – 

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Case

  • 7327BB/11/9VU 18-carat White Gold
  • 7327BR/11/9VU 18-carat Rose Gold

Diameter: 39 mm
Thickness: 9,13 mm  
Sapphire crystal caseback
Water resistance: 3 bar (30 m)
Dial
Silvered gold dial, hand-engraved on a rose engine
Movement
Hand-wound Calibre: 502.3.P
Balance-spring: Breguet type, flat, in silicon
Escapement:  inverted straight-line lever
Frequency: 3 Hz
Power reserve: 45 hours
Components: 294
Complications: perpetual calendar (day, date, retrograde month, leap year),
moon phases
Strap
Midnight blue alligator leather strap for the white gold version, mysterious brown alligator leather for the rose gold model

Price

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Press release - 2023
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Tuesday, April 18, 2023

BOVET – Virtuoso XI Gold Tourbillon Edition

 

BOVET 1822 –  Virtuoso XI White Gold Tourbillon Edition 2023

 Engraving Challenge

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It stands to reason that skeletonized timepieces particularly appeal, for they put all the mechanical complexity on full display. In the 22 years since Mr. Pascal Raffy took the helm of BOVET, he has insisted on making sure the movement is visible, its high watchmaking pedigree open to be admired, while at the same time reinforcing the House’s commitment to the decorative arts.

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Given this focus on mechanical artistry, it might seem a bit surprising that the new BOVET 1822 Virtuoso XI is the very first full skeleton timepiece the House has ever introduced. And what a skeleton it is.

Features & Functionality

The delicate dance when skeletonizing a movement is to remove enough material to enhance the aesthetics and completely show the inner workings, while still keeping the movement robust enough to function impeccably. Take away too much material from the bridges, for example, and they could deform and damage the performance of the movement.

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With the Virtuoso XI, the movement was specifically conceived and designed from the start to have enough space to engrave both sides of the bridges and plates, and room to admire them, and the result is exceptional. 

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More transparent than any timepiece that BOVET has ever produced, every aspect of this high watchmaking movement is on full display.

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The hand-engraving for the Virtuoso XI takes around 60 hours for the movement and the Writing Slope case. The engraving is done free-hand and leaves no room for mistakes. Surprisingly, the engravers, sitting quietly in the well-lit atelier, don’t seem to feel any pressure, though anyone watching them certainly does. The artisans delight in the dance of their tools as they transform a plain bridge or plate into an engraved objet d’art.

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The decoration is BOVET’s own Fleurisanne motif, one that the House has used for decades. Inspired by the tree leaf pattern on Greek columns from centuries ago, this theme is one of the signatures of BOVET. The name of this motif recalls that the House is still based a stone’s throw from where it was founded – a small village named Fleurier.

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The flying tourbillon movement that drives this exceptional timepiece meets BOVET’s demanding criteria of chronometry, reliability, and expression. It draws its energy from a single barrel that ensures more than 10 days of power reserve (240 hours, when the industry standard is 42-48 hours), all while maintaining the balance wheel’s oscillations at 18,000 vph.

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Finally, the long power reserve, provided by a single barrel, would require meticulous winding if not for the spherical differential winding system. The application of this ingenious mechanism, and the multi-gear three-dimensional teeth of one of its pinions, has received two patents. 

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Because of this system, the number of crown turns needed for full winding of the mainspring is halved without increasing friction and forces exerted on the gears.

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TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS

Model:   Virtuoso XI Gold Tourbillon Edition

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Movement
Bovet re-engineered Virtuoso VIII manufacture movement
Hand-wound skeletonised and hand-engraved
Patented double-sided flying tourbillon
10-days of power reserve
Every plate, bridge and other surface fully hand-engraved on both sides
Patented spherical rewinding system
Number of components: 283 
Number of Jewels: 36 jewels
Diameter: 17 lignes  
Frequency: 18,000 vph (2.5 Hz)
Tourbillon | COSC certified 
Power-reserve: 10 days
Functions  Hours, minutes, seconds, big date, power-reserve indicator
Case
Diameter: 44 mm | 18K White Gold Writing Slope case
Thickness: 13.45 mm
Sapphire crystal front and back
Optional set with diamond bezel 
High-polished or fully engraved
Crown with cabuchon at 12 o'clock
Water-resistance: 3 ATM / 3 bar / 30 meters / 100 feet
Dial
Openworked and hand-engraved dial
Strap
Black alligator leather strap with white gold folding clasp set with diamonds

PRICE  


GUARANTEE    5 years

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Press release - 2023
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