Thursday, November 17, 2022

F.P.Journe – Young Talent Competition 2022

F.P.JourneYoung Talent Competition Award 2022
 
Awarding to the winner 
at the F.P.Journe Manufacture November 11, 2022
Supporting the most talented young watchmakers in the world.

Since 2015, the Young Talent Competition allows discovering the next generation of most talented young watchmaking apprentices in the world, supports them in their route to independence by identifying their achievements and putting them under the spotlight. F.P.Journe organizes the Young Talent Competition with the support of The Hour Glass, luxury watch retailer in the Asia Pacific region. Both Maisons aim to perpetuate and support the art of haute horology and cultivate the appreciation of extensive horological craftsmanship.

  Click, to see the large size. BIG FOTO  

The selection criteria are based on technical achievement, the search for complexity in their realization, the quality of craftsmanship as well as their sense of design and aesthetics. Applicants must have independently designed and created a timepiece or an horological construction. The 2022 Young Talent Competition winner receives a diploma and a CHF 20,000.- grant from The Hour Glass and F.P.Journe, which will allow him to purchase watchmaking tools or finance an horological project.

The jury of the Young Talent Competition 2022 is composed of key personalities from the international horological scene: Philippe Dufour, Andreas Strehler, Giulio Papi, Marc Jenni, Michael Tay, Elizabeth Doerr and François-Paul Journe.

Maciej Miśnik

  Click, to see the large size. BIG FOTO  

  • Marine design pocket watch with tourbillon and pivoted detent escapement
  • Age 30 - Warsaw - Poland
  • Self-taught - Journeyman's certificate in watchmaking - Warsaw, June 2018
  • Graduate in physics - Gdańsk University of Technology - September 2021

 Case, hands and dial

Marine chronometers inspired the presented pocket watch. For this reason, the case was made of brass, however, for contrast, the pendant and the bow were made of silver. Most parts were made in my own workshop without using CNC machines. Basic machines such as lathes, milling machines and hand tools were used to make the watch. 

  Click, to see the large size. BIG FOTO  

For readability, steel hands were thermally oxidized to blue. In my opinion, blued hands harmonize with black indexes on the silver dial. For added complexity, the hour hand jumps once per hour rather than smoothly, as is the case with most watches.

Technical characteristics of the movement

As in marine deck chronometers, a pivoted detent escapement was used. Oscillation frequency of the balance wheel is 2 Hz. It is well known that detent escapement has good friction properties but it is not shock resistant. Due to this, I decided to make a pocket watch instead of a wristwatch. Additionally, the watch was equipped with a tourbillon thereby reducing the problem of poising the balance. 

  Click, to see the large size. BIG FOTO   

Two barrels are used to ensure sufficient torque. A major problem with watches using a tourbillon is the inertia of the cage. For this reason, the tourbillon cage components are very thin and delicate to reduce the inertia. The cage is very heavy, weighing 2 grams, but the problem of inertia was reduced. In the escape wheel, the pinion and the wheel are separated and connected via a bronze hairspring. There is a sleeve with two rubies in the wheel, which runs on the steel axle of the pinion. The hairspring is arranged in such a way that it holds the wheel on the pinion (the wheel does not fall out). 

  Click, to see the large size. BIG FOTO  

As soon as the cage is stationary, the escapement wheel is released. The escapement wheel moves and the cage begins to rotate. When the escapement wheel stops on the ruby, the cage continues to move and winds up the hairspring, losing its kinetic energy, and then slightly backs up. The backing up of the cage results from its high inertia and the reaction force of the hairspring. In most tourbillon watches, the cage stops with the escapement wheel, causing a temporary high force on the escapement elements and undesirable vibrations. In the case of the presented solution, a hairspring absorbs the vibrations, similar to solutions proposed for example by Derek Pratt, Karol Roman etc. The balance wheel is equipped with a Breguet-overcoil spring. There is no regulator on the hairspring due to chronometric properties. Two screws on the balance wheel maintain regulation of the oscillation period. Other screws are used to poise the balance wheel. The tourbillon cage is also poised, by a silver counterweight. Silver was used due to its high density.

 Manufacturing of the components

The presented watch is made of raw metals. No elements have been electro painted or plated. Only the hands and three screws were thermally oxidized to blue. Sulphide was grown on silver elements, this is what gives this darker look to the dial and to the small plate with the signature. 

  Click, to see the large size. BIG FOTO 

As it was written, I made most of the parts myself. Every part was finished by hand. In my workshop were not made: the watch chain, glass, 18 ruby bearings, balance hairspring, 2 mainsprings and 28 of 40 screws. I did not engrave the signature; it was made by a professional engraver.

Measurement

Diameter: without hinge and lock, 4.9 cm / with hinge and lock, 5.2 cm
Height: 7.1 cm Depth: without screws, 1.55 cm / with screws, 1.67 cm
Weight: with key and chain, 112.2 g / without key and chain, 100.2 g

Maciej Misnik
  Click, to see the large size. BIG FOTO  
  • Age 30 - Warsaw - Poland
  • Self-taught - Journeyman’s certificate in watchmaking - Warsaw, June 2018
  • Graduate in physics - Gdarisk University of Technology - September 2021

About you:

When did your passion for watchmaking begin?

I wasn’t quite 2 years old when I destroyed my first Cuckoo clock. Eversince then, clocks, watches and tools have never left me.

Where did you learn about watchmaking?

Mainly, I’m self-taught, but my grandfather, and his father and grandfather, were also watchmakers. From time to time, I went to see watchmakers in my hometown, and would ask them questions.

What type of watchmaking exam did you take, and where?

On June 25, 2018, I passed my journeyman exam in Masovian Chamber of Crafts and Entrepreneurship in Warsaw.

What was your first watchmaking achievement? (Or first watch)

I built my first watch in September 2019. It’s a simple chronograph wristwatch based on parts from a pocket watch.

About the watch:

Why did you choose these complications?

My father is a seaman. Ever since my childhood, I have liked shining brass marine devices, especially clocks. I wanted to have a small marine chronometer watch that I could put into my pocket, so I decided to make a pocket watch with a tourbillon and detent escapement. For me, precision poising the balance wheel is a challenge, so I used a tourbillon to solve the problem.

How long did it take to create this watch?

About 8 months, 1,000 hours of work in total.

What was your favourite part of making this watch?

It’s hard to say. I think one of my favourite parts of making a watch is its first assembly and first run.

What are the challenges of working on basic machines?

In my opinion, the biggest challenges are self-control and self-discipline. In just a few seconds you can destroy 3 days of work. You have to be very careful and 100% focused on all elements.

Why didn’t you use a CNC machine?

The answer is very easy. I did not use a CNC machine for 2 reasons: first, I think that if we say a watch is “hand made”, it has to be hand made, not made on a CNC machine and hand finished. Otherwise, it would be only hand-finished, and manufactured on a machine. I know many factories do this, but I can’t change that. I would like to point out that I’m not an enemy of mechanisation of production. It’s OK, but we have to be honest. The second reason is CNC machines are extremely accurate and reproducible, so, in my opinion of course, a watch cannot be unique. It can be beautiful, precise, amazing, but not unique. Besides, CNC machines are expensive, and I am not the owner of a large factory.

About the future:

What do you intend to do with this prize?

The diploma will be hung above my workbench. Maybe it’s selfish, but I would like to buy some machines and tools for my workshop, for example a professional Swiss-made jig-borer, a pivot polisher, a bigger precision watchmaker lathe, etc.

What is your aspiration for the next five years?

It’s a good question. I would like to make a pocket watch with a 1-second constant force mechanism. It’s my current project. In the near future, I would like to launch my own manufacture, but I’m not sure, that will be possible. One thing IS for sure - I will make watches. Wristwatches, I hope.

 --------------------------------------------- 
Press release - 2022
----------------------------------------------

www.facebook.com - fpjourneofficial
--------------------------------------------
MONTRES JOURNE SA
Brigitte Bocquet-Makhzani - Communication
International PR & Events Manager
17, rue de l’Arquebuse – 1204 Geneva – Switzerland
Tel : +41 (0)22 322 09 09
Fax : +41 (0)22 322 09 19
e-mail: bmakhzani@fpjourne.com
--------------------------------------------------------------
www.F.P.Journe.com 

Wednesday, November 16, 2022

Franck Muller – Cintree Curvex™ Diabolik Special Edition

 

Franck MullerCURVEX Cintrée Curvex™ Diabolik Special Limited Edition 2022

Click, to see the large size. BIG FOTO  

To celebrate the 60th Anniversary of the famous italian comics Diabolik, Franck Muller and Ronchi Gioielli collaborated on a special edition limited to 25 exceptional timepieces.

Click, to see the large size. BIG FOTO 

Created in 1962 by Angela and Luciana Giussani, two sisters, Diabolik is a well-known comic book in Italy. 

Click, to see the large size. BIG FOTO 

Diabolik is one of the best-selling comics in the world, with 150 million volumes sold. After a first movie adaptation in 2021, Diabolik II has been launched this month, November 2022, to celebrate the comic book's 60th Anniversary.

 Click, to see the large size. BIG FOTO 

Diabolik
moves in the dark. Agile, silent; he blends into the night. He is a panther with icy eyes, the only part he reveals of himself to the world.

Click, to see the large size. BIG FOTO 

The aesthetic of the timepiece fits in perfectly with Diabolik's character and his mysterious spirit with his mask designed on the dial of a Cintrée Curvex™, the emblematic watch shape of Franck Muller.

Click, to see the large size. BIG FOTO 

The design of the timepiece shows a black PVD case and a black paint lacquered dial in order to highlight Diabolik's gaze. The symbolism of Diabolik's colour, the rosso vivo lettering, is represented on the hands.

 Click, to see the large size. BIG FOTO  

The timepiece is also a tribute to Enzo Facciolo - designer of Diabolik - who died in 2021. The Cintrée Curvex™ Diabolik Limited Edition is produced in a limited series, one of which is offered to the designer's nephew.

Click, to see the large size. BIG FOTO 

The idea was born thanks to the acquaintance of one of the designer's nephews, as well as the cooperation with Ronchi Gioielli.

Click, to see the large size. BIG FOTO 

Ronchi Gioielli was founded in Milano about a century ago and has been an official Franck Muller dealer for several years. The timepiece is also a tribute to Enzo Facciolo - designer of Diabolik - who died in 2021. The Cintrée Curvex™ Diabolik Limited Edition is produced in a limited series, one of which is offered to the designer's nephew.

----------------------------------------
TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS

Collection   CURVEX

Model:  Cintrée CurvexDiabolik Special Edition


The Cintrée Curvex™ is the iconic shape of Franck Muller. Thanks to its perfectly curved case and unique contours, this collection is one of the brand's most distinctive silhouette.
The unique and gorgeous numeral design is also what makes the Cintrée Curvex immediately identifiable. It is a true example of a vibrant and sophisticated design that has timeless elegance.

Click, to see the large size. BIG FOTO 

Reference   7880 SC DT DIABOLIK NR

Case
Stainless Steel with black PVD coating
Hand polished
Sapphire crystal
Water resistant up to 30 meters
Dial
Black paint
20 layers of translucent lacquer
Functions
Hours, Minutes, Seconds, Date at 6 o'clock
Instructions  
Winding shaft with 3 positions: 
  • 1.Winding. 
  • 2.Date setting 
  • 3.Time setting
Movement
Calibre  MVT FM 800-DT
Self-winding movement with bidirectional rotor system
Power reserve of 42 hours
165 components
21 jewels
Diameter:  25.60 mm. Thickness: 3.75 mm
Balance wheel frequency set at 28,800 alternations per hour
Movement Decoration
Côtes de Genève and brushing soleil papier on the bridges and the rotor
Circular graining on the two sides of the main plate
Chamfering of the bridges 24k gold bath and rhodium plating of the components
24k gold finish on the written engravings
Circular brushing of the rotor ball bearing
Brushing soleil papier on the barrel Polishing at 45° and brushing soleil of the ratchet
Polished and blued screws
Bracelet
Black rubber strap
Buckle
Stainless steel buckle with black PVD coating
Hand polished

Limited to Only 25 Pieces

The timepieces are exclusively available at Ronchi Gioielli Milano:

RONCHI GIOIELLI
Via M. Gonzaga, 5
21013 MILANO
ITALY

Tel: 0039 02 877 449
E-mail: info@ronchigioielli.com


------------------------------------
Press release 2022
-------------------------------------
--------------------------------------------

Franck Muller 
Flagship store : Rue de la Tour-de-l'Ile 1
1204 Genève
- Switzerland
Tel: +41 22 818 00 30
Whatsapp : +41 78 836 33 17​
E-mail:
delisle@franckmuller.ch
-------------------------------------------------------
 www.facebook.com - Franck-Muller - Page officielle
---------------------------------------------------------------------
www.FranckMuller.com