De Bethune – DB Kind of Two Jumping GMT Dual Dial Edition

 

De Bethune – DB25 Kind of Two Jumping GMT Dual Dial Titanium 40mm Edition - 2022

Click, to see the large size. ▶ BIG FOTO

DB Kind of Two Jumping GMT
Two watches, two worlds: here and elsewhere.
In 2022, De Bethune celebrates its 20th anniversary. Two decades dedicated to interpreting centuries-old expertise and the tireless quest for innovation.

Click, to see the large size. ▶ BIG FOTO

On the occasion of SIAR 2022, the Manufacture is unveiling its 30th in-house calibre with the release of the DB Kind of Two Jumping GMT.
Here and elsewhere is now possible, as travel comes to life almost instantaneously in a single turn.

 In March 2021, the Manufacture De Bethune presented the DB Kind of Two Tourbillon. Bold and classic, its double dial was already out of place. 

 Click, to see the large size. ▶ BIG FOTO 

Its complexity has even challenged all limits and now it presents the DB Kind of Two Jumping GMT, offering a different time zone on each of its sides.

History

Double-sided watches are not a recent invention. For more than two centuries, these singular mechanisms have been born at the hands of erudite watchmakers, open to the new ideas of the Age of Enlightenment and often inspired by astronomy, the decorative arts as well as mechanical engineering.

With horologists increasingly driven by the temptation to develop ever more complicated models, double-sided cases became increasingly prevalent, a solution enabling their creators to express the full scope of their aesthetic and technical expertise by making it possible to display a greater number of functions. The history of horology has been punctuated by certain major accomplishments in this respect. Already during the Renaissance, tower clocks–the most famous of which is located in Venice – had several faces. A little later, certain table clocks with their vertical, four-faceted dials also displayed several identities within a single object. This was followed by pocket watches also featuring two dials, the best-known being the Leroy 01 by Louis Leroy – presented in 1900 and winner of the Grand Prix at the Paris World Fair – which long remained the most complicated watch ever created.

A contemporary take on the double-sided watch

Double-sided watches hold a special place in the realm of highly complicated watches. Beneath the apparent simplicity of this timepiece, De Bethune has clearly not taken the easiest path with this model involving two dials that embody a real watchmaking challenge. Views from back and front reveal an authentic transformation.

Click, to see the large size. ▶ BIG FOTO   

This was an idea that had been taking shape for many years in the mind of Denis Flageollet, who was convinced that it would offer him an unprecedented field of research and the opportunity to provide a different, contemporary interpretation. 

Click, to see the large size. ▶ BIG FOTO

Just as with the invention of his silicon balance and balance-spring, as well as the famous floating lugs, it would enable him to make another contribution to the advancement of horology.

Two very different faces, both aesthetically and technically

The DB Kind of Two Jumping GMT is perfectly reversible and can be worn on either side according to the mood of the moment and the time zone chosen. 

Click, to see the large size. ▶ BIG FOTO  

This model houses a highly sophisticated mechanism based on a complex system of gears and pinions arranged on the front or back of the watch, and which enables the hands to turn in the right direction, regardless of the dial chosen.

Click, to see the large size. ▶ BIG FOTO

On one side the jumping hour hand of the GMT function, on the other the central jumping second hand Opt for a modern or more traditional design? The initial inspiration was to create a watch with two very different identities, of which the aesthetic aspect guided the technical design of the new calibre entirely developed by Manufacture De Bethune at L’Auberson in the Swiss Jura

Click, to see the large size. ▶ BIG FOTO

The front side of the DB Kind of Two Jumping GMT displays a dial featuring a sleek and contemporary design that highlights the mechanics. Indeed, it is a new reading of the hour centred on the balance wheel at 6 o'clock, accompanied by the minute index on the periphery. 

Click, to see the large size. ▶ BIG FOTO 

Extensive work has been done on integrating polished, curved shapes, matt or glossy components, different thicknesses and levels, thereby creating a sensation of ample space and optimal volume, given the minimum height available for a watch integrating the complications of the jumping deadbeat second and the GMT. A deltoid-shaped bridge – perfectly symmetrical – is positioned in the centre, like an isosceles triangle that contributes to the overall sense of harmony.

Click, to see the large size. ▶ BIG FOTO  

The GMT side reveals a dial based on more traditional aesthetic inspiration, with a finely hand-guilloché central part surrounded by the numerals already featured on the dials of De Bethune models such as the DB8 and DB10.

The GMT function

Function is complex in its conception, but very simple in its use. The layout of the functions is based on a double display of hours and minutes on both sides. 

Click, to see the large size. ▶ BIG FOTO

Firstly, the owner sets his reference time, known as home time and indicated by the hour and minute hands on the 12 o'clock dial, by means of the crown in position 3 on the contemporary side. Secondly, he will set his second time zone on the GMT side, called classic, by the hour and minute hand which is controlled by the crown pulled out to position 2.

Floating lugs playing their role to the full

Every detail has been taken into consideration. Easy to use, yet highly complex, the system of floating lugs lends itself particularly well to the "pivoting" of the case. Redesigned especially for the DB Kind of Two, these elements have been equipped on each side with an ingenious little rotating mechanism made up of 28 components. 

Click, to see the large size. ▶ BIG FOTO 

For reliability purposes, they are manufactured in stainless materials such as surgical steel or titanium, thus enabling them to withstand the external aggressions of water, humidity, temperature variations and continuous contact with the skin.

Click, to see the large size. ▶ BIG FOTO

Thanks to a cam, a small "notch" allows the watch case to be instinctively and perfectly positioned in line with the floating lugs. The round case rotates on its central axis and can be positioned, front or back, in a delightfully easy, smooth and entirely natural way.

The DB29, a case middle inherently suited to a swivel watch

Finally, the DB29's case middle quickly became a key element in the pivoting case project developed by De Bethune. Its perfectly symmetrical shape offers a beautiful balance with the floating lugs and its elegant crown totally integrated at 12 o'clock (or 6 o'clock depending on the side chosen). It thus swivels naturally and the circumference principle is patently obvious, offering a true understanding of the object.

Click, to see the large size. ▶ BIG FOTO

All in all, with its elegant design, the combination of contemporary mechanics with a more traditional face, as well as the meticulous care devoted to details, legibility and comfort, the DB Kind of Two Jumping GMT perfectly illustrates one of the great principles of the Manufacture De Bethune: reinterpreting grand traditions with a contemporary vision of the horological object, there by opening up a new field of expression that is refined and sophisticated while preserving user-friendliness and simple read-off. 

Click, to see the large size. ▶ BIG FOTO

Awork of art with two faces, whose timeless beauty reflects mechanical and aesthetic perfection.

----------------------------------------------
TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS

Collection   Kind of Two

Model: De Bethune DB Kind of Two Jumping GMT  

Click, to see the large size. ▶ BIG FOTO

Reference: DBK2V1

Functions
Dual front and back display of hours and minutes, jumping seconds, Second time zone (GMT)

Movement
Calibre DB2517
Type: Mechanical hand-wound movement
Adjustment: Winding, setting the time and the GMT, by means of the crown (3 positions)
Technical features of calibre DB2517
Number of parts: 394
Jewelling: 58 rubies
Diameter: 30 mm
Power reserve: 4 days, ensured by a self-regulating twin barrel – De Bethune Innovation (2004)
Specificities: Titanium balance wheel with white gold inserts, optimised for temperature differences and air penetration – De Bethune Patent (2016)
“De Bethune” balance-spring with flat terminal curve – De Bethune Patent (2006)
Silicon escape wheel
De Bethune Dead Beat Second – De Bethune Innovation (2011)
GMT allowing to adjust 2 time zones, different on each side
Frequency: 36,000 vibrations per hour
Adornment: Motion works bridge and concave cover plate in grade 5 titanium, mirror-polished
Polished and chamfered barrel bridge, with shot-blasted stages
Hand snailed barrels
Steel parts polished and chamfered by hand

Displays

Contemporary single-sided display
– Display: Polished titanium hours and minutes indication; Minute indication on the periphery; Hour indication centered around the balance wheel at 6 o’clock
– Dial: Silver hour ring with polished blued index; Silver colour minute ring with blue transfer

Classic reverse side display
– Display: hand-polished and blued titanium hands for hours, minutes and dead beat seconds
– Dial: Silvered and relief, with convex levels and guilloché central part

Case
Material: Polished grade 5 titanium
Diameter: 43,3 mm
Thickness: 11,4 mm
Crown: at noon on the front side, at 6 o’clock on the reverse side, and integrated into the case
Lugs: Polished grade 5 titanium floating lugs – De Bethune Patent (2006)
With case turning mechanism that can be clearly positioned on the front or back side
Crystal doubles-sides: In sapphire crystal (1800 Vickers hardness) with double anti-reflective coating
Water resistance: 3 ATM

Strap
Extra-supple alligator leather, alligator lining
Buckle: Pin buckle in polished grade 5 titanium

 

 Limitation  Only 15 pieces per year

Price from   195.000 CHF

 --------------------------------------
Press release -- Geneva 2022
--------------------------------------
De Bethune Geneva Office 
25 Grand-Rue 1204 Geneva
Switzerland
Tel: +41 22 310 22 71
Fax: +41 22 310 33 40
-----------------------------------------------------
www.facebook.com - DeBethune
-------------------------------------------------------------
www.DeBethune.ch

FERDINAND BERTHOUD – Chronometrie FB 3SPC Gold Edition

 

FERDINAND BERTHOUD – CHRONOMÉTRIE FB 3SPC Gold Edition 2022

 THE NEW CHRONOMèTRE FB 3SPC:
when curves consort with chronometry

Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud unveils the third pillar of its collections: the new Chronomètre FB 3SPC. Powered by a mechanical movement featuring a novel construction and a cylindrical balance-spring, this timepiece approaches the core theme of precision from a new angle. It took two years to perfect the adjustments of the regulating organ before obtaining official "chronometer" certification (ISO 3159 standard): a first for such a movement. This new FB 3 collection draws its stylistic, technical and aesthetic inspiration from a rare and exceptional creation: the No. 26 decimal watch.  

Click, to see the large size. ▶ BIG FOTO 

Originating from the workshop founded by Ferdinand Berthoud in Paris after being awarded his “maîtrise” (master of horology title) in 1753, this creation is signed by his nephew, Louis Berthoud. It is the symbol of a revival in this post-revolutionary period, during which marine chronometers – measuring instruments intended for naval use in the 18th century – paved the way for watchmaking of very high quality, pare-down and firmly rooted in the 19th century and its civil applications. The Chronomètre FB 3SPC reflects this historical and horological transition.

Chronometric filiation: a cylindrical balance-spring chronometer-certified by the COSC

Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud is launching a third collection of wristwatches in the wake of those created since 2015: the new Chronomètre FB 3SPC. The spirit of Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud is based on the quest for reliability and precision through unprecedented horological creations, and the new FB 3 collection is no exception to this rule.

Click, to see the large size. ▶ BIG FOTO

The Chronomètre FB 3SPC thus explores another chronometric issue, which was the subject of the most abundant and fruitful research during the 18th century golden age of watchmaking: the balance-spring. These experiments were however poorly documented and it was thus in the total absence of specialised literature that Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud set about creating the new Calibre FB-SPC.

Click, to see the large size. ▶ BIG FOTO

This new mechanical movement is based on a cylindrical balance-spring, a rare watchmaking speciality on which Ferdinand Berthoud himself worked. His nephew, Louis Berthoud, favoured its use in his famous No. 26 decimal watch. Calibre FB-SPC is the only one of its kind to satisfy the chronometric (precision timekeeping) criteria of the COSC: ISO 3159 certification made possible only by the precision adjustments performed by the Manufacture's watchmakers. 

In addition to the development of a new variable-inertia balance-spring, equipped with four fine adjustment screws and 12 load screws, many months of research, testing and fine-tuning were necessary to define the number of coils and the geometry of the terminal curve at the attachment points in order to optimise rate precision.

Click, to see the large size. ▶ BIG FOTO

This new mechanical hand-wound movement stems from more than three years of research and development, during which every detail was carefully examined. Appearing at 9 o'clock, the three main escapement organs – the balance-wheel, pallet-lever and escape-wheel – are thus individualised, distinct and prominent. This ample space dedicated to the regulating organ enables its operation to be admired in full, and the cylindrical balance-spring to be seen beating throughout the three-day power reserve, including through a large water-resistant porthole created in the case middle at 9 o'clock.

Stylistic filiation: a design inspired by pocket watches

While the FB 1 and FB 2 collections belong to the legacy of Ferdinand Berthoud's marine chronometers, the FB 3 collection borrows from the style of the Master's nephew, student and successor: Pierre-Louis Berthoud (1754-1813) known as "Louis Berthoud". Born in 1754 in Couvet, in the Val-de-Travers, the latter moved to Paris at his uncle’s request. In 1784, having skilfully assisted in the making and improving of his distinguished relative’s marine chronometers, he was entrusted by Ferdinand Berthoud with the responsibility of his workshop, located since 1754 on Rue de Harlay, running along the Place Dauphine in Paris.

Click, to see the large size. ▶ BIG FOTO

Under his impetus, private watchmaking experienced considerable expansion. Louis Berthoud added his personal touch, which can be seen in the aesthetics of the mechanism. He inaugurated a style that was rooted in the highly functional appearance of marine chronometers, where function dictated form. He developed these pragmatic designs at a time when the spirit of the age was shifting from the baroque and opulent style of the monarchy to neo-classicism during the early days of the Republic and subsequently the Empire. Thanks to his exceptional talent, Louis Berthoud made the workshop's activity bear fruit by naturally accompanying the societal and stylistic changes of his time.

Click, to see the large size. ▶ BIG FOTO

This inspiration is evident at first glance in the FB3 collection. Its new round case, available in 18-carat white or rose gold, recalls the curves of pocket watches from the early 19th century, such as the decimal watch No. 26, made in 1793 by Louis Berthoud and now on display within the Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud heritage collection in Fleurier.

Click, to see the large size. ▶ BIG FOTO

A single line hugs the curves of the domed crystal and the slender polished bezel of the FB 3 models, while harmoniously extending along the strap and the lugs screwed to the case. This refined and coherent ensemble echoes the slimness of the case (42 mm in diameter and 9.43 mm thick), which fades into the background so as to make way for the spectacular movement.

 Aesthetic affiliation: architecture designed to highlight every detail

The other deep-seated characteristic of Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud lies in the desire to create movements with a legible, graphic and three-dimensional architecture. The mainplate is placed at the heart of Calibre FB-SPC and the components are assembled on either side of it.

Click, to see the large size. ▶ BIG FOTO

On the dial side, a close-knit array of six bridges traces curves and lines directly inspired by the work of Louis Berthoud. They are echoed on the back by ten other bridges forming an intimately juxtaposed mosaic.

Click, to see the large size. ▶ BIG FOTO

The indication of time is pared down to the absolute minimum: a peripheral inner bezel ring for the hours and minutes, and small seconds at 6 o'clock. At 2 o'clock, the power-reserve indicator is engraved in a sector graduated in 12-hour segments from "0" to "1". The rest of the dial, deliberately left open, enables one to admire the aesthetics of the movement's components, their arrangement, as well as the surface conditions alternating between chamfered and polished bevels and matt surfaces created by fine sandblasting. 

Click, to see the large size. ▶ BIG FOTO

The architecture of the movement is minimalist in appearance, yet no less complex. The hours and minutes flange, shaped like an amphitheatre, extends vertically to the mainplate. The openworked and suspended seconds disc is secured from below to a dedicated bridge. The balance-bridge, with its distinctive screw-in heel shape, is a historical reference to Ferdinand Berthoud's No. 3 astronomical watch. Positioned at 12 o’clock, the barrel bridge spanning a wide 120° angle recalls a bridge on the No. 2575 quarter-repeater watch made by Louis Berthoud.  

Click, to see the large size. ▶ BIG FOTO

More than 100 hours are required to decorate the 230 components of the movement in order to achieve the ultimate degree of perfection characterising the creations bearing the Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud signature.

Click, to see the large size. ▶ BIG FOTO

The Chronomètre FB 3SPC is available in two versions. The first features an 18-carat white gold case, 2N pale yellow gold movement components and an eggshell-coloured dial in sandblasted silver-toned brass. The second is equipped with an 18-carat 5N rose gold case framing a black-varnished minutes track with black-rhodium treated visible movement components. Their facetted, skeletonised and open-tipped 18-carat gold hands are inspired by a 1785 Ferdinand Berthoud astronomical regulator belonging to the Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud heritage collection in Fleurier.

Click, to see the large size. ▶ BIG FOTO

The gold used in the production of Chronomètre FB 3SPC models stems from the ethical sourcing process instated by Karl-Friedrich Scheufele – President and Founder of Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud – at Chopard, of which he is also Co-President.

Click, to see the large size. ▶ BIG FOTO

The Chronomètre FB 3SPC thus perpetuates one of the most emblematic stylistic elements of Louis Berthoud's era, the post-revolutionary years of the early 19th century, when the pocket watch entered a new technical age. The Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud collection thus gains a new territory of expression, still rooted in historical chronometry, while its degree of finishing and its level of quality remain unchanged. Production of the Chronomètre FB 3SPC is naturally limited by the capacities of the Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud workshop in Fleurier to a maximum 25 of these timepieces per year.

 -------------------------------------------
TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS

Model:  CHRONOMÈTRE FB 3SPC Gold Edition

 FUNCTIONS
• Central display of the hours and minutes, seconds at 6 o’clock and power reserve at 2 o’clock

Click, to see the large size. ▶ BIG FOTO

MOVEMENT

Mechanical hand-wound ...................................................................................................Calibre FB-SPC
Diameter.......................................................................................................................................37.30 mm
Thickness .......................................................................................................................................6.84 mm
Lignes ....................................................................................................................................................15’’’
Jewels ........................................................................................................................................................ 47
Frequency ........................................................................................................................21,600 vph (3 Hz)
Power reserve ................................................................................................................................ 72 hours
Number of components ........................................................................................................................230
Number of bridges ....................................................................................................................................16

TECHNICAL CHARACTERISTICS

• Slip-spring barrel (automatic uncoupling when maximum power reserve is reached)
• Variable-inertia balance with four fine-adjustment screws and 12 load screws
• Cylindrical balance-spring with hand-crafted Berthoud terminal curves
• Swiss lever escapement
• Crown-activated stop-seconds mechanism
• Mainplate and bridges in sandblasted nickel silver
• Hand-finished to the highest watchmaking standards

Officially chronometer-certified by the COSC

Click, to see the large size. ▶ BIG FOTO

🟠REF. FB 3SPC.1

 CASE
• Round case in ethical 18-carat white gold with a transparent sapphire ‘porthole’ at 9 o’clock
Total diameter ..............................................................................................................................42.30 mm
Thickness .......................................................................................................................................9.43 mm
Water resistance .........................................................................................................................30 metres
Crown diameter .............................................................................................................................8.50 mm
• Crown in ethical 18-carat white gold
• Exhibition back in ethical 18-carat white gold fitted with a glareproofed sapphire crystal pane
• Domed sapphire crystal glareproofed on both sides
DIAL
• Eggshell-coloured peripheral inner bezel ring for the hours and minutes, in sandblasted silver-toned brass
• Eggshell-coloured seconds subdial at 6 o’clock, in sandblasted silver-toned brass
• Sandblasted and 2N gilded visible components of Calibre FB-SPC
Hands
• Facetted and skeletonised and open-tipped hours and minutes hands in 18-carat gold with blue CVD treatment
• Seconds hand with counterweight in 18-carat gold with blue CVD treatement
• Arrow-shaped power-reserve hand in 18-carat gold with blue CVD treatement
STRAP and BUCKLE
• Alligator leather strap (125 x 70 mm) – Various sizes available on request
• 18-carat white gold pin buckle

 ==================

Click, to see the large size. ▶ BIG FOTO  

⚫REF. FB 3SPC.2

 CASE
• Round case in ethical 18-carat rose gold with a transparent sapphire ‘porthole’ at 9 o’clock
Total diameter ..............................................................................................................................42.30 mm
Thickness .......................................................................................................................................9.43 mm
Water resistance .........................................................................................................................30 metres
Crown diameter .............................................................................................................................8.50 mm
• Crown in ethical 18-carat rose gold
• Exhibition back in ethical 18-carat rose gold fitted with a glareproofed sapphire crystal pane
• Domed sapphire crystal glareproofed on both sides
DIAL
• Black-varnished peripheral inner bezel ring for the hours and minutes, in sandblasted brass
• Black-varnished seconds subdial at 6 o’clock in sandblasted brass
• Black rhodium-treated visible components of Calibre FB-SPC
Hands
• Facetted and skeletonised open-tipped hours and minutes hands in 18-carat rose gold
• Seconds hand with counterweight in 18-carat rose gold
• Arrow-shaped power-reserve hand in 18-carat rose gold
STRAP and BUCKLE
• Alligator leather strap (125 x 70 mm) – Various sizes available on request
• 18-carat rose gold pin buckle

 Limitation  Only 25 pieces of each version watches

=====================--
Press Release - 2022
-------------------------------------
-------------------------------------------------------------

Chronométrie FERDINAND BERTHOUD SA
Rue des Moulins 20
Case postale 128
2114 Fleurier, Val-de-Travers (NE)
Switzerland
-------------------------------------------------------------------
www.facebook.com - Ferdinand Berthoud 
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
www.FerdinandBerthoud.ch