De Bethune – DB25 Perpetual Calendar Blue, Gray Dial Titanium

De Bethune – CURRENT DB25 Perpetual Calendar Blue, Gray Dial Titanium 40mm Automatic Edition - 2022

New self-winding perpetual calendar makes its debut in the De Bethune collection.

Click, to see the large size. ▶ BIG FOTOAt Geneva Watch Days 2022, Manufacture De Bethune unveils a new 40mm titanium case in its perpetual calendar collection.

A DB25sQP with a two-tone silver and blue dial. A classic interpretation of the DB25 with a radiating guilloché pattern adorning 12 sectors, integrated lugs and a new 40mm titanium case.

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Originally launched in 2011, the perpetual calendar by De Bethune is tinged with poetry and combines the finesse of watchmaking with the precision mechanics of the Manufacture by associating the most romantic complication - the moon phase and its starry sky - with the most technical complication - the perpetual calendar - within an exceptional timepiece.

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Inspired by the shape of drums, the 40 mm-diameter round case with its slender and resolutely classic lines, is subtly enhanced by the openworked lugs characteristic of the DB25 collection.

An intriguing combination of romance and practicality

The finesse of the decorations, along with the purity of the two-tone hand-guilloché dial featuring a pattern radiating across 12 sectors, accentuate the legibility notably achieved by the assembly of annular blue appliques, with silver-toned raised transfers and Roman numerals, marking off the subdials and the chapter ring. 

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At 12 o'clock, a palladium and blued steel sphere is set against a sky dotted with pink gold stars, also incorporating a leap-year indicator in a gold disc. The date can be read on a dial at 6 o'clock, while the apertures displaying the day of the week and the month are respectively located at 9 and 3 o'clock.

Peerless comfort

The round case of the new DB25sQP retains the harmonious lines that contributed to the success of the original DB25QP but comes in titanium, a material that the Manufacture has increasingly favoured in recent years. Its integrated, openworked and curved lugs further accentuate the practical and pleasant wearing of this classically inspired watch.

Calibre DB2324V2

As an improved version of the latest calibre DB2324, it has been technically adapted to fit inside a 40 mm case, representing a new feat for the Manufacture.

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Entirely designed and developed by Denis Flageollet's team in the Manufacture's Haute Horlogerie workshops in Sainte Croix (Swiss Jura), self-winding Calibre DB2324V2 with its 5-day power reserve benefits from De Bethune's research and latest technology, including a perpetual calendar, a spherical moon indicating the moon phases with a precision corresponding to 1 day/122 years, a self-regulating double barrel, a triple pare-chute system and a titanium/white gold balance.

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The state-of-the-art balance visible on the back of the watch results from De Bethune’s consistently physics and mathematically-driven approach to improving its operation. It is made of titanium and features the latest advances including an adjusted diameter and small white gold weights placed around the rims endowing it with a remarkable quality of inertia, reliability and regulation.

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This model is equipped with the famous De Bethune balance spring – the small, extremely fine hairspring considered to be the soul of the mechanical watch – for which Manufacture De Bethune has opted to maintain its centre of gravity exactly in the centre by using a flat curve affixed to the outside of the balance spring. Differences in the thickness of the blade add to the almost perfect precision of its concentric development. 

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Its many advantages notably include reduced thickness, improved concentricity quality, finer adjustment of the index-assembly system as well as no need for its pins, as the shape of the curve even acts as a shock absorber in case of impacts. The escape-wheel is made of silicon for the lightness of the material and also to increase the power of the calibre.

Click, to see the large size. ▶ BIG FOTO A sapphire caseback enables one to admire the full complexity of the movement, which is powered by a titanium and platinum oscillating weight stemming from research by the R&D team, as well as the refinement of its finishes: a three-quarter platinum bridge with sandblasted and hand -coloured starry sky decoration; a blued titanium balance bridge and oscillating weight arm; a hand-coloured white gold oscillating weight; as well as hand-bevelled and hand-polished steel parts.

New reference in limited production

This new perpetual calendar is fitted with a leather strap secured by a polished titanium buckle and accompanied by a second grey fabric strap.

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Vividly illustrating the technical and aesthetic expertise of the Manufacture, this new Reference DB25sQP marks its entry into the perpetual calendar collection and will be limited to a single production run of 15 units per year.

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TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS

Collection   CURRENT

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Name: DB25 Perpetual Calendar

Reference: DB25sQPATIS13

Movement: DB2324/V2
Functions:
Hours, Minutes,

• Spherical moon phase indication and leap-year indication at 12 o'c lock,
• Perpetual calendar indicating the month at 3 o'clock,
• Date at 6 o'clock and the day of the week at 9 o'clock DB2324/V2

Type: Mechanical self-winding movement
Adjustment: Winding, setting the date and the time by means of the crown (3 positions)
Month, day of the week and sphericaI moon phase adjustment via correctors

Technical features of calibre DB2324V2
Number of parts: 423
jewelling: 48 jewels
Diameter: 30 mm
Power reserve: 5 days, ensured by a self-regulating twin barrel De Bethune innovation (2004)
Specificities: Titanium and white gold balance wheel De Bethune Innovation (2016)
"De Bethune" balance-spring with flat terminal curve De Bethune Patent (2006)
Silicon escape wheel
Spherical moon phase indication accurate to a degree of one lunar day every 122 years — De Bethune Patent ('2004)
Triple pare-chute shock-absorbing system De Bethune Innovation (2005)
Optimized oscillating weight in titanium and white gold
Oscillating weight shock-absorbing system De Bethune Innovatior› (2006)
Frequency: 28,800 vibrations per hour
Adornment:
3/4 plae witht sarry decor, sandblasted and mailed by hand
Balance bridge and oscillating weight arms in blued titanium
White gold oscillating weight hand snailed 
Hand-polished, chambered steel parts

Display

Display:
Hands curved, in hand mirror-polished steel  
Perpetual calendar apertures indicating the day of the week at 9 o’clock and the month at 3 o’clock on anthracite discs with silver decal – sub dial at 6 o’clock indicating the day of the month – leap year
indicated by a gold pastille appearing in the starry sky at 12 o’clock
Spherical moon phase indication in palladium and blued steel with an accuracy of one lunar day every 122 years at 12 o'clock — De Bethune Patent (2004) day every
Dial:
Bicolor silver and blue hand-guilloché, with 12 radiating sectors De Bethune star-studded sky in blued titanium, inlaid with rose gold stars
Curved hour, date and moon phase rings with silver relief 
Roman numerals
Case
Material: Titane grade 5
Diameter: 40 mm
Thickness: 11,3 mm
Lugs: Integrated, hollowed lugs
Crystal: In sapphire crystal (1800 Vickers hardness) with double anti-reflective coating
Case back: Open back in polished titanium and sapphire crystal (1800 Vickers hardness) with double anti-reflective coating
Water-resistance: 3 ATM
Strap
Extra-supple alligator leather, alligator lining
Buckle: Pin buckle in polished titanium

 Limitation  Only 15 pieces per year

Price from   125.000 CHF

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Press release -- Geneva 2022
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De Bethune Geneva Office 
25 Grand-Rue 1204 Geneva
Switzerland
Tel: +41 22 310 22 71
Fax: +41 22 310 33 40
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Louis Erard x Label Noir – Excellence The Regulator Edition

 

Louis Erard x Label Noir – EXCELLENCE Le Régulateur Automatic Special Edition 2022

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IN THE LAND OF DARK HOURS

Le Régulateur Louis Erard x Label Noir. More than a collaboration; a piece of teamwork. More than an exercise in style; a composition by four hands, each adding its own nuances. More than an exchange; a meeting of two brands. And, once again, the challenge of accessible exclusivity: CHF 3,500, 178 pieces 

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The hour isn’t dark; it’s glossy. First, it captures the eye, then releases its grip for a glance at the minute and second hands: a thin hand as if taken from a fir bud that splits the black dial with its acid green tip, as if to remind you that the watch is alive and moving.

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Once again, this new variation on the regulator theme captures the essence of collaboration. Louis Erard X Label Noir. Louis Erard has been one of the Franches Montagnes region's more maverick brands for almost 100 years. And Label Noir has been a Geneva-based atelier at the forefront of customisation for more than ten years. 

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The meeting of these two worlds produced a spark: a green spark, like the last ray that the sun sends over the earth before hiding behind the horizon. A spark that illuminates the rich black tones that watchmaking expertise is capable of producing.

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Le Régulateur Louis Erard x Label Noir is all about depth. Emmanuel Curti, head watchmaker and founder of Label Noir, wanted to redesign the regulator in his own way of reading the time: first the hour, then the minute, then the seconds. This order of reading led to graduated finishes, from true matte to a glossy sheen.

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The first thing that jumps out at you is the small hour dial: the only glossy black element on the entire watch, highlighted by a thread of mirror-polished steel. The rest of the dial is in vertically brushed matte, accentuating the contrast, while the case is treated in matte black so as not to interfere with the dial. 

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The strap adds a finishing touch: black Cordura woven fabric that stands out from the rest, as if adding to the play of textures and extending the range of black tones.

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In this design, director and artistic director of Louis Erard, Manuel Emch, found a new way of drawing the lines of collaboration.

Each element in this watch leads back to the same principle: 
 we are always stronger together.

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Emmanuel Curti has found a training ground in Label Noir’s style. It’s a style that’s been developed over time, through customisations for private clients and collaborations with other brands. A style that was already in an embryonic phase in Label Noir's very mission: to take the concept of watchmaking to another level, by daring to add variety, matte, black, and acid colours.

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Without teamwork, Le Régulateur Louis Erard x Label Noir wouldn’t exist. This model was built in dialogue, in a series of exchanges, over many proposals and iterations. Multiple prototypes and different versions were created. In the end, the most iconic model was chosen: the one that best reflects both worlds. 

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Label Noir's chromatic concentrate. Louis Erard's signature components: the Excellence case, the fir-tree hands, and the regulator. And subtleties with surprising origins: the idea of green glass on the open caseback came from Louis Erard, but is so Label Noir that it was kept.

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 Other collaborations are still to come.

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TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS   

🤝 COLLABORATIONS:   

Collection: EXCELLENCE

Model: Excellence Le Régulateur Louis Erard x Label Noir Edition

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Ref. 85237NN57.BAT02 - Black PVD, Stainless Steel

Movement
Automatic regulator, Sellita SW266-1 calibre,
11½ ''', Ø25.60 mm, height: 5.60 mm, 31 jewels,
28,800 VpH (4 Hz), élaboré grade movement, meticulously decorated,
special openwork oscillating weight with Louis Erard symbol), approx.
38 hours of power reserve
Functions
HMS
Hour hand on counter at 12 o'clock, central minute hand,
second hand on counter at 6 o'clock
Case
Black PVD, Stainless Steel, Ø42 mm,
lug width: 22 mm, lug to lug: 49.60 mm, thickness: 12.55 mm, 3 pieces, 
Domed sapphire crystal with anti-reflective treatment on both sides
Movement visible through the transparent caseback
Water resistant up to a pressure of 5 bars (50m/165ft)
Signature fir tree crown, caseback engraved with “Limited Edition 1 of 178”
Dial
Black, satin finish at 6-12 o’clock with white and green transfers, polished black lacquer counter at 12 o’clock with polished rhodium-plated ring and white transfer
Hands Signature fir tree hands, rhodium-plated hour and minute hands and green lacquered second hand
Strap
Black grained calf leather with tone-on-tone stitching, blue grained calf leather lining
Polished stainless steel pin buckle, functional catch spring bars enabling the strap to be changed quickly
Dimensions: 22/20mm width, 80/115mm length

🤝 COLLABORATIONS:  
Watch developed in collaboration with Label Noir in a limited edition of 178 pieces

Limited Edition of 178 pieces. 

Price: (incl. Swiss VAT – proceed to checkout for further information) CHF 3,500  

WARRANTY   3 year guarantee

 

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Press release - 2022
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CONTACT:
LOUIS ERARD
Rue de l’Ouest 2
CH–2340 Le Noirmont
Suisse
info@louiserard.com
+41 (0) 32 957 65 30 
Cristina Saiu, Digital Marketing Executive
+41 32 957 65 34, Cristina.Saiu@louiserard.com

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