Louis Erard x Label Noir – Excellence The Regulator Edition

 

Louis Erard x Label Noir – EXCELLENCE Le Régulateur Automatic Special Edition 2022

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IN THE LAND OF DARK HOURS

Le Régulateur Louis Erard x Label Noir. More than a collaboration; a piece of teamwork. More than an exercise in style; a composition by four hands, each adding its own nuances. More than an exchange; a meeting of two brands. And, once again, the challenge of accessible exclusivity: CHF 3,500, 178 pieces 

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The hour isn’t dark; it’s glossy. First, it captures the eye, then releases its grip for a glance at the minute and second hands: a thin hand as if taken from a fir bud that splits the black dial with its acid green tip, as if to remind you that the watch is alive and moving.

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Once again, this new variation on the regulator theme captures the essence of collaboration. Louis Erard X Label Noir. Louis Erard has been one of the Franches Montagnes region's more maverick brands for almost 100 years. And Label Noir has been a Geneva-based atelier at the forefront of customisation for more than ten years. 

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The meeting of these two worlds produced a spark: a green spark, like the last ray that the sun sends over the earth before hiding behind the horizon. A spark that illuminates the rich black tones that watchmaking expertise is capable of producing.

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Le Régulateur Louis Erard x Label Noir is all about depth. Emmanuel Curti, head watchmaker and founder of Label Noir, wanted to redesign the regulator in his own way of reading the time: first the hour, then the minute, then the seconds. This order of reading led to graduated finishes, from true matte to a glossy sheen.

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The first thing that jumps out at you is the small hour dial: the only glossy black element on the entire watch, highlighted by a thread of mirror-polished steel. The rest of the dial is in vertically brushed matte, accentuating the contrast, while the case is treated in matte black so as not to interfere with the dial. 

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The strap adds a finishing touch: black Cordura woven fabric that stands out from the rest, as if adding to the play of textures and extending the range of black tones.

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In this design, director and artistic director of Louis Erard, Manuel Emch, found a new way of drawing the lines of collaboration.

Each element in this watch leads back to the same principle: 
 we are always stronger together.

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Emmanuel Curti has found a training ground in Label Noir’s style. It’s a style that’s been developed over time, through customisations for private clients and collaborations with other brands. A style that was already in an embryonic phase in Label Noir's very mission: to take the concept of watchmaking to another level, by daring to add variety, matte, black, and acid colours.

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Without teamwork, Le Régulateur Louis Erard x Label Noir wouldn’t exist. This model was built in dialogue, in a series of exchanges, over many proposals and iterations. Multiple prototypes and different versions were created. In the end, the most iconic model was chosen: the one that best reflects both worlds. 

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Label Noir's chromatic concentrate. Louis Erard's signature components: the Excellence case, the fir-tree hands, and the regulator. And subtleties with surprising origins: the idea of green glass on the open caseback came from Louis Erard, but is so Label Noir that it was kept.

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 Other collaborations are still to come.

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TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS   

🤝 COLLABORATIONS:   

Collection: EXCELLENCE

Model: Excellence Le Régulateur Louis Erard x Label Noir Edition

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Ref. 85237NN57.BAT02 - Black PVD, Stainless Steel

Movement
Automatic regulator, Sellita SW266-1 calibre,
11½ ''', Ø25.60 mm, height: 5.60 mm, 31 jewels,
28,800 VpH (4 Hz), élaboré grade movement, meticulously decorated,
special openwork oscillating weight with Louis Erard symbol), approx.
38 hours of power reserve
Functions
HMS
Hour hand on counter at 12 o'clock, central minute hand,
second hand on counter at 6 o'clock
Case
Black PVD, Stainless Steel, Ø42 mm,
lug width: 22 mm, lug to lug: 49.60 mm, thickness: 12.55 mm, 3 pieces, 
Domed sapphire crystal with anti-reflective treatment on both sides
Movement visible through the transparent caseback
Water resistant up to a pressure of 5 bars (50m/165ft)
Signature fir tree crown, caseback engraved with “Limited Edition 1 of 178”
Dial
Black, satin finish at 6-12 o’clock with white and green transfers, polished black lacquer counter at 12 o’clock with polished rhodium-plated ring and white transfer
Hands Signature fir tree hands, rhodium-plated hour and minute hands and green lacquered second hand
Strap
Black grained calf leather with tone-on-tone stitching, blue grained calf leather lining
Polished stainless steel pin buckle, functional catch spring bars enabling the strap to be changed quickly
Dimensions: 22/20mm width, 80/115mm length

🤝 COLLABORATIONS:  
Watch developed in collaboration with Label Noir in a limited edition of 178 pieces

Limited Edition of 178 pieces. 

Price: (incl. Swiss VAT – proceed to checkout for further information) CHF 3,500  

WARRANTY   3 year guarantee

 

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Press release - 2022
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CONTACT:
LOUIS ERARD
Rue de l’Ouest 2
CH–2340 Le Noirmont
Suisse
info@louiserard.com
+41 (0) 32 957 65 30 
Cristina Saiu, Digital Marketing Executive
+41 32 957 65 34, Cristina.Saiu@louiserard.com

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MB&F – Legacy Machine Split Escapement EVO Edition

 

MB&F – Legacy Machine Split Escapement EVO and Split Escapement EVO Beverly Hills Edition - 2022

The EVO collection grows in importance

Following the LM Perpetual EVO, the LM Sequential EVO, and the LM Split Escapement EVO (first introduced as a limited edition for the United Arab Emirates’ 50th anniversary), MB&F is now introducing two new EVO editions, proving that EVO is becoming a collection in its own right. 

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THE STORY OF THE LM SPLIT ESCAPEMENT

Like all good stories, it is worth starting at the very beginning. The idea behind the LM Split Escapement started life in 2015 with the LM Perpetual. Designed and conceived by Northern Irish master watchmaker Stephen McDonnell, there were two criteria for the perpetual calendar: make it fool-proof; and display MB&F’s signature flying balance wheel in the centre of the dial. McDonnell was soon to realise that there was a problem: there was nowhere to put the escapement. The concept had worked with previous Legacy Machines, where the balance wheel was on the front of the watch along with the escapement, but with the perpetual calendar display of the more complex LM Perpetual, there was simply no room for both.

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A man of solutions, McDonnell had the ingenious idea of creating the world’s longest balance staff that would traverse the entire movement, leaving the large balance wheel on its own, on the front of the watch, and moving the remaining parts of the escapement – anchor and escape wheel – to the opposite side of the movement, almost 12 mm below; hence the name ‘Split Escapement’.

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When the LM Perpetual was unveiled, there were so many innovations to talk about that the split escapement went largely unnoticed. So, in 2017, MB&F decided to create the LM Split Escapement (LM SE) to highlight McDonnell’s genius idea. The manual-winding, 298-component movement is driven by double barrels providing 72 hours of power reserve, and features a user-friendly, foolproof rapid date-changing system that prevents the user from inadvertently damaging the movement when adjusting the date.

EVO-LUTION

The first editions of the LM Split Escapement were presented in MB&F’s classic Legacy Machine case – but the collection now also features the EVO case, conceived for a more active lifestyle.

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This new case design first came to life in 2020 in the form of the LM Perpetual EVO; it features 80 metres of water resistance, a screw-down crown, an integrated rubber strap and a bezel-free design. But the EVO concept goes deeper: inside the case, the movement is suspended thanks to a world-premiere, monobloc shock-absorbing “FlexRing” system, dampening the kind of vertical and horizontal shocks that come with real-life adventures.

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After the LM Perpetual EVO, the EVO case worked its way further into the Legacy Machine collection: most recently and with a bang, in the form of MB&F’s first-ever chronograph, the LM Sequential EVO. But previously and more discreetly, with a 10-piece limited edition LM Split Escapement EVO, presented quietly on the occasion of the UAE’s Golden Jubilee.

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In addition to the EVO case, that Golden Jubilee edition featured a change that radically modified the design of the LM Split Escapement: the entire mechanism was rotated clockwise by 30 degrees, with the crown at 4:30 instead of 2 o’clock – completely changing the symmetry of the watch, giving it a totally new character.

THE NEW ICY-COOL EDITION

MB&F is now unveiling not one, but two new LM SE EVO editions. The first comes in grade 5 titanium with an icy blue base plate and slate grey dial and opened counters that will make you shiver, in a good way.

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Another feature is the special darkened treatment on the movement side, creating heightened contrast between the wheels, the rhodium-plated barrels and the rose gold details – symbolically echoing the contrast between the active, contemporary nature of the EVO collection and the traditional finishing of the movement. MB&F is one of only a handful of artisanal brands that continue to finish components painstakingly by hand, making the view of the movement as mesmerizing as the dial.

THE BEVERLY HILLS EDITION

 

The second edition is the first of a series of limited editions that will be reserved exclusively for the MB&F LABs – a new retail format building on the success of MB&F’s M.A.D.Galleries, combining MB&F timepieces with a limited number of art pieces, but adapted to spaces not quite large enough to host a full-fledged M.A.D.Gallery. 

 

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This year should see the opening of MB&F LABs in Paris, Singapore and Beverly Hills – with this edition having been designed exclusively for the one on Los Angeles’ Rodeo Drive.

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The Beverly Hills MB&F LAB is managed by the renowned American watch retailer Westime, who has not only been a partner of the brand since the very beginning, but is also one of the first to open an MB&F LAB. 

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This new edition of 25 pieces comes in Westime’s corporate colours of blue and black with a striking black base plate and metallic blue dial and open counters. It will be the only MB&F LAB edition released this year.  

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TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS

Model:   LEGACY MACHINE SPLIT ESCAPEMENT EVO

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MB&F – LM Split Escapement EVO

Legacy Machine Split Escapement EVO is available in two versions:

• - Ti version: grade 5 titanium case with pastel blue baseplate and dark grey dials.
• - Beverly Hills edition: limited edition of 25 pieces in grade 5 titanium case with black baseplate and blue dials.

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MB&F – LM Split Escapement EVO Beverly Hills Edition

Engine
Movement developed for MB&F by Stephen McDonnell.
Split escapement with the balance wheel suspended above the dial and the anchor under the movement.
Manual winding with double mainspring barrels.
Bespoke 14mm balance wheel with traditional regulating screws visible on top of the movement.
Superlative hand finishing throughout respecting 19th-century style; bevelled internal angles highlighting hand craft; polished bevels; Geneva waves; hand-made engravings.
FlexRing: an annular dampener fitted between case and movement, providing shock protection along the vertical and lateral axes.
Super-LumiNova on numerals and hands.
Screw down crown.
Power reserve: 72 hours
Balance frequency: 2.5Hz / 18,000bph
Number of components: 298
Number of jewels: 35
Functions & indications
Hours, minutes, date and power-reserve indicators.
Push-button next to the date dial for quick adjustment of the date.
Case
Material: grade 5 titanium
Dimensions: 44 x 17.5mm
Number of components: 52
Water resistance: 80m / 8ATM / 270 feet
Sapphire crystals
Sapphire crystals on top and display back treated with anti-reflective coating on both faces.
Strap & buckle
Integrated rubber strap with titanium folding buckle.


'FRIENDS' RESPONSIBLE FOR LEGACY MACHINE
SPLIT ESCAPEMENT EVO

Concept: Maximilian Büsser / MB&F
Product design: Eric Giroud / Through the Looking Glass
Technical and production management: Serge Kriknoff / MB&F
Movement design and finish specifications: Stephen McDonnell and MB&F
Movement development: Stephen McDonnell and MB&F
R&D: Thomas Lorenzato, Joey Miserez, Maël Mendel and Pierre-Alexandre Gamet / MB&F

Wheels, bridges, pinions and axis: Jean-François Mojon / Chronode, Atokalpa, Paul-André Tendon / Bandi, Daniel Gumy / Decobar Swiss, Rodrigue Baume / HorloFab, DMP, and Le Temps Retrouvé.
Balance wheel: Andréas Kurt / Precision Engineering, Benjamin Signoud / AMECAP and Marc Bolis / 2B8
Barrel: Stefan Schwab / Schwab-Feller and Swiss Manufacturing
Perpetual calendar parts: Alain Pellet / Elefil
Hand-engraving of movement: Glypto
FlexRing: Laser Automation
Hand-finishing of movement components: Jacques-Adrien Rochat and Denis Garcia / C-L Rochat
PVD/CVD-treatment: Pierre-Albert Steinmann / Positive Coating
Case and movements components: Alain Lemarchand, Jean-Baptiste Prétot, Stéphanie Carvalho and Fabien Ramazzina / MB&F
Movement assemblage: Didier Dumas, Georges Veisy, Anne Guiter, Emmanuel Maitre, Henri Porteboeuf and Mathieu Lecoultre / MB&F
After-Sales service: Thomas Imberti / MB&F
Quality Control: Cyril Fallet and Jennifer Longuepez / MB&F
Case decoration: Sandra Lambert / Bripoli, Giuseppe Di Stefano / STG Création
Dial: Hassan Chaïba and Virginie Duval / Les Ateliers d’Hermès Horloger
Super-LumiNova on the dials: Frédérique Thierry / Monyco
Buckle: G&F Chatelain
Crown and correctors: Cheval Frères
Hands: Waeber HMS
Sapphire crystals: Stettler
Anti-refection treatment for sapphire crystals: Anthony Schwab / Econorm
Strap: Thierry Rognon / Valiance, BIWI
Presentation box: Olivier Berthon / Soixanteetonze
Logistics and production: David Lamy, Ashley Moussier, Fanny Boutier, Houda Fayroud and Mélanie Ataide / MB&F

Marketing & Communication: Charris Yadigaroglou, Vanessa André, Arnaud Légeret and Paul Gay / MB&F
M.A.D.Gallery: Hervé Estienne / MB&F
Sales: Thibault Verdonckt, Virginie Marchon, Cédric Roussel, Jean-Marc Bories and Augustin Chivot / MB&F
Graphic design: Sidonie Bays / MB&F
Product photography: Maarten van der Ende and Laurent-Xavier Moulin
Portrait photography: Régis Golay / Federal
Webmaster: Stéphane Balet / Idéative
Film: Marc-André Deschoux / MAD LUX, Manouil Karapetsis and Dominik Lang / Brosky Media
Texts: Sophie Furley / WorldTempus

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Press Release - 2022
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MB&F SA, Rue Verdaine 11, CH-1204 Genève, Switzerland
Charris Yadigaroglou  cy@mbandf.com +41 22 508 10 33.
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