Wednesday, May 11, 2022

MB&F – LMSE EVO - UAE Golden Jubilee Edition

MB&F Legacy Machine Split Escapement EVO - UAE Golden Jubilee Special Limited Edition 

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MB&F joins Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons to celebrate the UAE ‘Year of the 50th’with a surprising new interpretation of its Legacy Machine Split Escapement.

YEAR OF THE 50TH

This year marks the 50th anniversary of the unification of the seven emirates under one flag with a whole year of celebrations running from April 2021 until the end of March 2022. The UAE’s leading luxury watch and jewellery retailer, Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons, is commemorating the ‘Year of the 50th’ with the creation of over 35 instantly covetable limited-edition timepieces, including a LM Split Escapement EVO – UAE Golden Jubilee Limited Edition of 10 pieces.

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MB&F’s Founder Max Büsser explains why this limited edition is important to him on a personal level: “I have been living in the UAE for seven years now and the country has been incredibly hospitable and welcoming to me and my family. So when the Seddiqi family asked me if I wanted to create a limited edition for this historic occasion, it was a wonderful way for me to say thank you.”

THE STORY OF THE LM SPLIT ESCAPEMENT

The idea behind the LM Split Escapement started life in 2015 with the LM Perpetual. Designed and conceived by Irish master watchmaker Stephen McDonnell, there were two criteria for the perpetual calendar: make it fool-proof and display MB&F’s large signature suspended balance wheel in the centre of the dial. McDonnell was soon to realise that there was a problem: there was nowhere to put the escapement. The concept had worked on the previous Legacy Machines, where the balance wheel was on the front of the watch along with the escapement, but with the LM Perpetual, there was just no room for both the balance wheel and the escapement.

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A man of solutions, McDonnell had the ingenious idea of creating the world’s longest balance staff that would traverse the whole movement, leaving the large balance wheel on the front of the watch and concealing the remaining parts of the escapement – anchor and escape wheel – on the opposite side of the movement, almost 12 mm below; hence the name ‘Split Escapement’. 

When the LM Perpetual was unveiled, there were so many innovations to talk about that the split escapement went largely unnoticed. So, in 2017, MB&F decided to create the LM Split Escapement to highlight McDonnell’s genius idea, publicly crediting him by including his name on the watch.

THE UAE GOLDEN JUBILEE LIMITED EDITION

The LM Split Escapement series has always been somewhat under the radar, so the UAE Golden Jubilee was the perfect occasion to celebrate both the 50th anniversary of the UAE and this unusual mechanical marvel.

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For this limited edition of only 10 pieces there are a host of changes that radically modify the design of the watch. Firstly, the whole mechanism has been rotated clockwise by 30 degrees, with the crown at 4:30 instead of 2 o’clock. This completely changes the symmetry of the watch, giving it a totally new character.

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Second, this special edition receives the new EVO case, offering enhanced comfort and robustness – and which until now has only ever been used in the LM Perpetual EVO series. The EVO case design features a no-bezel construction, with the domed sapphire crystal fused directly to the titanium case, integrated lugs and strap, and a water-resistance of 80 metres achieved thanks to a screw-down crown. The movement is suspended on the innovative “FlexRing” system, a specially developed monobloc shock-absorbing mechanism that works against both vertical and horizontal shocks.

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Finally, for the very first time in MB&F history, the dial plate comes in a rich salmon colour, while two of the dark grey sub-dials – for the date and power reserve indicator – have been opened up. Movement-side, the special darkened treatment creates heightened contrast between the wheels, the rhodium-plated barrels and the rose gold details.

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The manual-winding, 298-component movement uses the same base as the LM Perpetual with double barrels, a 72-hour power reserve, and a date-changing security system that prevents the user from inadvertently damaging the movement when adjusting the date.

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Special
anniversaries deserve special timepieces and the LM Split Escapement EVO – UAE Golden Jubilee Limited Edition is the perfect way to join the UAE celebrations as the country looks ahead to the next 50 years.

AHMED SEDDIQI & SONS

Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons is the region’s leading retailer of luxury watches & jewellery. Established in 1950, the company has continuously developed and nurtured the needs of its clients through the combination of expert curation of its portfolio and commitment to service excellence. Today, the company is recognised as a pioneer amongst retailers in the region, with an extensive collection of over 60 luxury timepiece & jewellery brands across 40 locations in the UAE.
 


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TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS

Model: LM SE EVO UAE GOLDEN JUBILEE LIMITED EDITION

 Limited edition of 10 pieces in grade 5 titanium with salmon baseplate and dark grey dials.

Engine
Movement developed for MB&F by Stephen McDonnell.
Split escapement with the balance wheel suspended above the dial and the anchor under the movement.
Manual winding with double mainspring barrels.
Bespoke 14mm balance wheel with traditional regulating screws visible on top of the movement.
Superlative hand finishing throughout respecting 19th-century style; bevelled internal angles highlighting hand craft; polished bevels; Geneva waves; hand-made engravings.
FlexRing: an annular dampener fitted between case and movement, providing shock protection along the vertical and lateral axes.
Galvanic dark grey dials with both SLN numerals and hands.
Screw down crown.
Power reserve: 72 hours
Balance frequency: 2.5Hz / 18,000bph
Number of components: 298
Number of jewels: 35
Functions & indications

Hours, minutes, date and power-reserve indicators.
Push-button next to the date dial for quick adjustment of the date.
Case
Material: grade 5 titanium
Dimensions: 44mm x 17.5mm
Number of components: 52
Water resistance: 80m / 270' / 8ATM
Sapphire crystals
Sapphire crystals on top and display back treated with anti-reflective coating on both faces.
Strap & buckle
Rubber strap with titanium folding buckle.

Limited edition of only 10 pieces

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Press release - 2021-22
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For more information, please contact
MB&F SA, Rue Verdaine 11, CH-1204 Genève, Switzerland
Charris Yadigaroglou  cy@mbandf.com +41 22 508 10 33.
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Tuesday, May 10, 2022

TUDOR – HERITAGE Black Bay PRO

TUDORHERITAGE Black Bay PRO Steel 39 mm Chronometer - 2022

 BLACK BAY PRO

TUDOR presents a new technical model with a whole new aesthetic. Named Black Bay Pro, it has a 39-millimetre diameter, a fixed steel bezel and a Manufacture Calibre with built-in GMT function.

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Black Bay Pro is an entirely new model with a dual time zone feature, a technical complication that establishes local time without losing sight of the time in another time zone. Compact, robust and sporty, this model boasts many unique aesthetic details and celebrates the spirit of the technical watches that TUDOR has produced for professionals throughout its history.  

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Recognisable by its 24-hour graduated satin-brushed fixed bezel and its yellow 24-hour "Snowflake" hand, Black Bay Pro is powered by the TUDOR Manufacture Calibre MT5652 with built-in GMT function.

KEY POINTS

  • Satin-brushed and polished case in stainless steel, 39 mm in diameter, with a 24-hour graduated fixed bezel in stainless steel
  • Domed dial, grained matt black, with applied hour markers in monobloc luminous ceramic
  • “Snowflake” hands, a hallmark of TUDOR divers’ watches since 1969, with Grade A Swiss Super-LumiNova® luminescent material
  • Manufacture Calibre MT5652, COSC-certified with a silicon balance spring, 70-hour power reserve
  • A choice of three bracelet designs: black Jacquard fabric, hybrid rubber and leather or riveted 316L steel with TUDOR "T-fit" clasp with rapid adjustment
  • Five-year transferable guarantee with no requirement for registration or periodic maintenance checks


ADVENTURER SPIRIT AND TECHNICAL AESTHETICS

Throughout their history, TUDOR watches have been chosen by some of the boldest adventurers, like the 30 explorers who embarked on the two-year British North Greenland Expedition to study Arctic ice exactly 70 years ago, with TUDOR watches on their wrists. Brand founder Hans Wilsdorf supplied watches for the members of the expedition. 

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He had just created the first waterproof and self-winding TUDOR watch, the Oyster Prince model, and couldn't imagine a better environment for testing it than the extreme climate of the Arctic.  
 
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Tudor - Oyster Prince Submariner 7922  is a diver's watch from 1954

Tudor - Oyster Prince Submariner 7922  is a diver's watch from 1954 ============================================
The Black Bay Pro model reflects the heritage of those instruments used by the pioneering explorers. This is a tool-watch designed for professional use.

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Whilst this model is part of the Black Bay line, it introduces many new and unique aesthetic details, starting with its winding crown which has been entirely redesigned for maximum grip. Reminiscent of the curves found on the crowns of the brand's historical technical watches, this new component is set flush to the middle case band so that its tube is not visible. In another new feature, the applied hour markers on the dial are made from monobloc luminous ceramic.

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This feature enhances the technical aesthetic of Black Bay Pro whilst considerably increasing the luminous surface of the hour markers. A new bracelet clasp, with a TUDOR "T-fit" rapid size-adjustment system, completes the list of new innovations included in this model. Easy to use, requiring no tools and offering five positions, the "T-fit" system allows the wearer to carry out a fine, instant adjustment of up to 8mm on the clasp.

TWO TIME ZONES

On the Black Bay Pro model, the reference time is indicated by an angular yellow "Snowflake" hand, an aesthetic hallmark of TUDOR, which completes a lap of the dial every 24 hours. Local time is indicated by another, shorter "Snowflake" hand set by a jumping hour, which can be moved either backwards or forwards. 

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The date, displayed through an aperture positioned at 3 o'clock, is coupled with the local time hand so that when setting the time and passing midnight in retrograde, it instantly jumps to the previous day. A highly unusual, sophisticated and particularly practical function for the user.

THE MANUFACTURE CALIBRE MT5652

The Manufacture Calibre MT5652 with built-in GMT function was developed by TUDOR for the Black Bay Pro model. It illustrates the technical development process which is unique to TUDOR, drawing on adaptable architecture capable of including new functions into its manufactured movements rather than resorting to additional modules. A minor detail for some, but a must for watchmaking purists.

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It has been designed to ensure robustness, longevity, reliability and precision, as has its variable inertia balance, which is maintained by a sturdy traversing bridge with a two-point fixation. 

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Together with its non-magnetic silicon balance spring, the Manufacture Calibre MT5652 is certified as a chronometer by the Official Swiss Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC), with its performance going beyond the standards set by this independent institute. 

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In fact, where COSC allows an average variation in the daily running of a watch of between -4 and +6 seconds in relation to absolute time in a single movement, TUDOR insists on between -2 and +4 seconds’ variation in its running when it is completely assembled.

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Another notable feature is that the power reserve of the Manufacture Calibre MT5652 is "weekend-proof", about 70 hours. This enables the wearer to take the watch off on a Friday evening and put it back on again on Monday morning without having to reset it.

STEEL BRACELET OR JACQUARD-WOVEN OR LEATHER STRAP

The fabric strap is one of the hallmarks of TUDOR, which, in 2010, became one of the first watchmaking brands to offer it with its products. 

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Woven in France using a traditional method on 19th century Jacquard looms by the Julien Faure company in the St-Etienne region, its manufacturing quality and comfort on the wrist are unique. In 2020, TUDOR celebrated ten years of collaboration with the hundred-and-fifty-year-old Julien Faure company. The partnership began with the launch of Heritage Chrono, the first model fitted with a fabric strap created by the craftsmen, at Baselworld 2010.

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For the Black Bay Pro, TUDOR has selected a black strap with a yellow band woven by these traditional craftsmen. The model is also available with a stainless steel bracelet inspired by the folding riveted bracelets made by TUDOR in the 1950s and 1960s. These were famous for having visible rivet heads on the side of the bracelet that held the links together. The links also had a distinct stepped construction. 

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These two aesthetic details are found on the current bracelet, which also integrates modern manufacturing methods with solid links and laser-finished rivet-style heads. Finally, the Black Bay Pro is also available with a hybrid strap in black rubber and leather with a folding clasp.

THE ESSENCE OF BLACK BAY

The Black Bay line features dials inspired by the TUDOR divers’ watches produced during the 1950s. It borrows the characteristic angular hands known to collectors as “Snowflake” from models that appeared in the brand’s 1969 catalogue. Its unprotected crown and the characteristics of its case are reminiscent of the first generations of TUDOR divers' watches.

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The Black Bay line is the result of the subtle blend of traditional aesthetics and contemporary watchmaking. Far from simply being an identical re-release of a classic, it brings together over sixty years of TUDOR divers' watches at the same time as being resolutely anchored in the present. Whilst it is neo-vintage in conception, its manufacturing techniques, reliability, robustness and the quality of its finish are consistent with today's more rigorous requirements.

THE TUDOR GUARANTEE

Since the brand’s creation by Hans Wilsdorf in 1926 and in line with his vision of the ideal timepiece, TUDOR has been ceaselessly creating watches that are as robust, durable, reliable and precise as possible. 

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On the strength of this experience, and confident in the superior quality of its watches, TUDOR offers a five-year guarantee for all its products. This guarantee does not require the watch to be registered or submitted to periodic checks and is transferable.

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ABOUT TUDOR

TUDOR is an award-winning Swiss-made watch brand, offering mechanical watches with refined aesthetics, proven reliability and unique value for money. The origins of TUDOR date back to 1926, when "The Tudor" was first registered as a brand on behalf of the founder of Rolex, Hans Wilsdorf. He created the Montres TUDOR SA Company in 1946 to offer watches with the quality and dependability of a Rolex, at a more affordable price point. Because of their robustness and affordability, throughout their history TUDOR watches have been chosen by the boldest adventurers on land, underwater and on ice. Today, the TUDOR collection includes emblematic models such as Black Bay, Pelagos, 1926 and Royal. Since 2015, TUDOR has also offered mechanical manufacture movements with multiple functions and superior performance.

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Technical Specifications

Collection: HERITAGE

Model: Black Bay PRO 39mm

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REFERENCE 79470

CASE
39 mm x 14.6mm height steel case with polished and satin finish
Open case back in black-PVD-treated 316L steel with sapphire crystal
BEZEL
24-hour graduated fixed bezel in satin-brushed steel
WINDING CROWN
Steel screw-down crown with the TUDOR rose in relief
WATERPROOFNESS Waterproof to 200 m (660 ft) 
CALIBRE
Manufacture Calibre MT5652
TOTAL DIAMETER  31.8 mm
THICKNESS  7.52 mm
JEWELS  28 jewels
Self-winding mechanical movement with bidirectional rotor system
POWER RESERVE  Certified 70 hours
PRECISION  Swiss chronometer officially certified by COSC
(Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute) 
OSCILLATOR  Variable inertia balance, micro-adjustment by screw
Non-magnetic silicon balance spring
Frequency: 28 800 beats/hour (4 Hz)
FUNCTIONS
Jumping hours (second time zone), 24 hours, minutes and seconds at the centre
Instantaneous date at 3 o’clock without non-correction range synchronised on the jumping hours hand
Stop-seconds for precise time setting
DIAL
Black, domed
CRYSTAL Domed sapphire crystal
BRACELET
Riveted steel bracelet with polished and satin finish, or hybrid rubber
and fabric strap with steel folding clasp and safety catch, or black fabric strap with yellow band and buckle

Price: EUR 3,750 on steel bracelet EUR 3,450 on strap

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Press Release - 2022
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