Tuesday, July 13, 2021

A. Lange & Sohne – CABARET TOURBILLON HANDWERKSKUNST Edition

A. Lange & SöhneCABARET TOURBILLON HANDWERKSKUNST Platinum Limited Edition 2021

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CABARET TOURBILLON HANDWERKSKUNST 

The CABARET TOURBILLON HANDWERKSKUNST is – viewed from all sides – an extravagant timepiece. It combines superb watchmaking artistry, to the outermost angles of its rectangular calibre, with elaborate, traditional and, meanwhile, rare techniques.

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They include semi-transparent enamelling of the dial and several manual engravings in the lozenge design style. The limited 30-watch edition is a special version of the world's first mechanical wristwatch with stop seconds for the tourbillon as presented by A. Lange & Söhne in 2008.

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The CABARET TOURBILLON is a milestone in the history of precision watchmaking. It was with this watch that A. Lange & Söhne succeeded in 2008, for the first time, to instantaneously stop the balance inside the rotating cage – and instantly restart it by pushing the crown home. It is based on Lange's only rectangular model, which, since its launch, has stood for extravagance as well as for a distinctive movement philosophy: the CABARET. Limited to 30 pieces, the CABARET TOURBILLON HANDWERKSKUNST places special emphasis on its artistic aura. The seventh model of the HANDWERKSKUNST series launched ten years ago is characterised by the artistic and artisanal qualities of the elaborate finissage of the dial and the movement, with the lozenge chosen as the signature design element.

Combination of traditional craftsmanship disciplines

The three-part dial of the CABARET TOURBILLON HANDWERKSKUNST is made of solid white gold and is crafted in the manufactory. The inner area with the typical Lange outsize date is manually engraved with a lozenge pattern. This regular motif sets a challenge to the engraver as every small deviation is instantly visible. It is inspired by the six lozenge-shaped hour markers in gold that face the centre. Together with the Roman numerals III, IX and XII, they stand in the outer zone of the dial with a delicate surface that serves as a stage. A thin line decorated with tremblage visually separates the dial parts from one another. This engraving technique also graces the frame of the hand eye and of the date aperture.

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The dial is coated with a semi-transparent enamel layer that adds extra depth to the engraving and showcases various metallic shades of grey. The result is an extravagant dial with a three-dimensional effect. 

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The separately integrated subsidiary dials for the small seconds and the power-reserve indicator, which at A. Lange & Söhne is traditionally executed with the UP/DOWN display, consist of rhodium-coloured gold; the hands are made of rhodiumed gold. An aperture in the dial reveals the one-minute tourbillon which is suspended between two diamond endstones. On its top side, the matt-finished tourbillon bridge has a black polishing that is applied using a technique that ranks among the most difficult types of finissage.

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A rectangular case in platinum measuring 29.5 by 39.2 millimetres forms the precious frame for the new exclusive version of the first tourbillon with a stop-seconds mechanism. It is graced with a deployant buckle in platinum and a black leather strap with grey contrast stitching.

Progress by standstill

The manually wound calibre L042.1 of the CABARET TOURBILLON HANDWERKSKUNST has a twin mainspring barrel that delivers a power reserve of 120 hours. It is a masterpiece of technology and craftsmanship. It is composed of 370 parts, of which no fewer than 84 are integrated in the filigreed tourbillon that weighs only a quarter of a gram. The movement owes its historic significance to a tiny component that transformed it into a milestone of precision watchmaking. 

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In 2008, more than 200 years after the invention of the tourbillon, A. Lange & Söhne showed how an oscillating balance inside the rotating cage can be stopped to set a tourbillon timepiece to the precise second. By pulling the crown, a complex lever mechanism is triggered that pivots a movable V-shaped spring onto the balance wheel rim. The balance stops instantaneously, even if one of the spring arms is in contact with one of the three cage posts. 

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The special geometry of the spring assures that the pressure imposed on the balance is always correctly dosed, regardless of the position of the cage. An advantage of this design is that it preserves the potential energy of the balance spring so that the balance can restart instantly as soon as the arresting spring is retracted when the crown is pushed home.

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Measuring 22.3 by 32.6 millimetres, the form movement of the CABARET TOURBILLON HANDWERKSKUNST is tailored to the rectangular shape of the case. In comparison with the 2008 version, it has an indexless oscillation system with a Lange balance spring. 

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The lozenge motif of the dial is echoed by the black-rhodiumed engravings on the tourbillon and intermediate wheel cocks, creating a visual bridge between the dial and the movement side. Simultaneously, the interplay of colours from silver and grey hues initiated on the dial is enriched by a further nuance.  

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The train-wheel bridge in untreated German silver has a subtle granular surface inspired by the movements of historic pocket watches. It accounts for six of the total of nine screwed gold chatons. Two further ones are located on the tourbillon and intermediate wheel cocks, and one is integrated in the tourbillon bridge on the dial side. The winding train, decorated with circular graining, is visibly integrated in the plate. The engraved inscriptions on the plate are black-rhodiumed as well. A limitation engraving on the case back indicates the rarity of the horological masterpiece.

 

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About A. Lange & Söhne
Dresden watchmaker Ferdinand Adolph Lange laid the cornerstone of Saxony's precision watchmaking industry when he established his manufactory in 1845. His precious pocket watches remain highly coveted among collectors all over the world. The company was expropriated after World War II, and the name A. Lange & Söhne nearly vanished. In 1990, Ferdinand Adolph Lange's great-grandson Walter Lange had the courage to relaunch the brand. Today, Lange crafts only a few thousand wristwatches per year, predominantly in gold or platinum. They are endowed exclusively with proprietary movements that are lavishly decorated by hand and assembled twice. With 67 manufacture calibres developed since 1990, A. Lange & Söhne has secured a top-tier position in the world of watchmaking. Brand icons such as the LANGE 1 with the first outsize date in a regularly produced wristwatch, and the ZEITWERK with its precisely jumping numerals display, rank among the company's greatest successes. Exceptional complications such as the ZEITWERK MINUTE REPEATER, the TRIPLE SPLIT, and the so far most complicated model, the GRAND COMPLICATION presented in 2013 in a six-watch limited edition, reflect the manufactory's determination to achieve ever new pinnacles in its tradition-steeped horological artistry. Launched in 2019, the sporty-elegant ODYSSEUS marks the beginning of a new chapter for A. Lange & Söhne.

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Technical Specifications

Model:  CABARET TOURBILLON HANDWERKSKUNST Edition

Reference no. 703.048

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Movement
Lange manufacture calibre L042.1
,
manually wound, crafted to the most exacting Lange quality standards,
decorated and assembled twice by hand;
precision-adjusted in five positions;
three-quarter plate made of untreated German silver;
tourbillon and intermediate wheel cocks engraved by hand

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Movement parts: 370
, of which 84 for the tourbillon
    Jewels: 45, as well as two diamond end stones
    Screwed gold chatons: 9
    Escapement: Lever escapement
    Oscillation system: Shock-resistant screw balance; balance spring manufactured in-house, frequency 21,600 semi-oscillations per hour
    Power reserve: 120 hours when fully wound
    Movement dimensions: 22.3 × 32.6 × 6.4 millimetres
Functions
Time indicated in hours, minutes, and subsidiary seconds;
one-minute tourbillon with stop seconds;
UP/DOWN power-reserve indicator; outsize date
Case
950 platinum
Crown for winding the watch and setting the time; recessed push piece for correction of the date
Crystal and caseback: Sapphire crystal (Mohs hardness 9)
Dial
18-carat white gold, grey with hand-engraved lozenge pattern, semi-transparent enamelling
Hands and appliques: Rhodiumed-plated white gold hands and applied makers
Strap & Buckle

Hand-stitched leather strap, black with grey seam
Deployant buckle in 950 platinum


Limited Edition  to 30 timepieces
This edition is available in the A. Lange & Söhne boutiques.

Price: 315.000*
*Recommended retail price in Germany including VAT. Non-binding quotation, prices subject to change.


#AlangeSoehne | #langeCABARET  | #TOURBILLON | #HANDWERKSKUNST | #175yearsGlashuette | #finewatchmaking |

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Press Release - 2021
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Press enquiries
Arnd Einhorn, Head of Corporate Communications & Product PR

* Tel.: +49 (0)35053 -440- +49 (0) 44-5505
* E-mail: presse@lange-soehne.com
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Monday, July 12, 2021

BREGUET – Type XX Chronograph Only Watch 2021

BREGUETType XX Chronograph Only Watch 2021 Unique piece

Breguet confirms its presence at Only Watch 2021, a key charity event organized by the Monegasque Association against Muscular Dystrophy that is also a highly anticipated occasion in the international watchmaking calendar. An exceptional Only Watch auction sale led by Christie’s will be organized to support medical research on muscular dystrophy on Saturday, November 6, 2021 in Geneva.

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Ever since its inception in 2005, this biannual event has benefited from the support of Breguet and the high patronage of HSH Prince Albert II of Monaco. Marc A. Hayek, President of Montres Breguet, will once again donate a one-of-a-kind timepiece, sensitive as he is to the seriousness of muscular dystrophy and eager to renew his commitment to fighting children’s diseases.

Type XX Only Watch 2021 Chronograph

The House of Breguet will present a faithful re-edition of its renowned pilot’s watch, produced as a one-of-a-kind piece for Only Watch 2021. Following on from the Type 20 military chronograph put up for sale at the 2019 auction, this new model pays tribute to the civilian editions of the Type XX chronograph from the 1950s and 1960s. It meticulously reproduces the visual and mechanical codes of this emblematic Breguet timepiece. 

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 BREGUET Type 20 Only Watch 2019 👆

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The case for this Type XX chronograph remains loyal to its past, with its contained diameter of 38.30 mm as per the original, as well as a typical curvature of the horns embellished by a lateral bevel along with some generously-sized pushbuttons. Unlike its military versions, this unique piece comes equipped with a straight crown, as seen in the Type XX civilian-use models. The bidirectional steel bezel has been given the same attention to precision on this piece, which comes fitted with a 12-hour scale, along with a luminous triangular marker that is strongly inspired by the first generation of civilian Type XX pieces.

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This model is also notable for its rather specific dial, the bronze color is a nod to the extremely rare civilian and military models with dials colored in this way that were sold at the time. Following sustained exposure to sunlight or moonlight, black dials may acquire a bronze hue – a patina effect which is highly sought after by collectors today. The Type XX Only Watch 2021 chronograph is also notable for its specific architecture, featuring a small seconds subdial at nine o’clock and a 30-minute totalizer at three o’clock with an increased diameter, luminous markers and the teardrop-shaped hand that differ from the original military versions. This watch offers excellent readability in all conditions, while the shape of the hands leads them to be colloquially referred to as “syringes”. Both the hands and the large Arabic numerals are treated with Super-LumiNova®. The Breguet signature is visible at 12 o’clock, as one would expect on a civilian version.

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The historical coherence does not stop at the casing detail. Indeed, the Type XX Only Watch 2021 comes equipped with a Valjoux 235 13-line movement, directly derived from the Valjoux 222 14 lines used by Breguet in the 1950s and early 1960s. This hand-wound column wheel chronograph movement has been restored and returned to service by the House of Breguet. In doing so, the Type XX Only Watch 2021 respects the historical functions and proportions of the pieces upon which it is based. Of course, this movement is fitted with the flyback function, without which it could never be a true Type XX pilot chronograph.

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As with the original, the Breguet Type XX Only Watch 2021 is fitted with a screwed steel caseback providing water resistance to 30 meters. The eventual owner of this piece will also notice the “Only Watch 2021 Pièce Unique” wording engraved on the caseback. This unique model features a calfskin leather strap with a steel pin buckle, and is presented in an airplane wing-shaped case.

Breguet, a history of watchmaking and aviation

The House of Breguet showed an early interest in watches designed for aviation, highlighting how watchmaking should contribute to progress in air navigation just as it had done previ-ously for marine navigation. From 1918 onwards, the House of Breguet provided several timepieces for the American Air Force and in 1922 for the Société d’Aviation Louis Breguet, a company founded by a descendant of Abraham-Louis Breguet. These instruments gradu-ally became chronographs with counters and tachometers, which could either be worn by the pilots or affixed to the plane’s dashboard. Breguet continued to provide increasingly sophisticated chronographs to various aviation and aircraft companies. However, the most important chapter in the history of the Breguet pilot watch began with the Type XX. 

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In the early fifties, the French Ministry of Defense drew up specifications with a view to purchasing chronograph wristwatches for its Air Force, to be known as Type 20. Drawing on its experience in this area, Breguet expressed its interest and designed a model that was quickly approved by the authorities. The year was 1954 and the legend of the Type XX had just begun.

The Type 20 was introduced as a pilot watch equipped with a flyback chronograph, the em-blematic function of this watch. The flyback function allows for the chronograph function to be reset to zero by simply pressing the lower pushbutton, simplifying the pilot or team members’ operations and offering the possibility of recording several consecutive times.

It is worth noting that in the house’s books, the military models are referred to as Type 20 and the civilian models as Type XX. The Type XX chronograph evolved through three suc-cessive generations, each with several varieties that today arouse a growing desire among collectors.

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About Breguet

The House of Breguet, founded in 1775 by Abraham-Louis Breguet (1747–1823), holds a unique position in the world of watchmaking. Acknowledged as one of the most prolific inventors of his time, having developed the tourbillon, gong spring, pare-chute shock protec-tor, and Breguet balance spring, Abraham-Louis Breguet received recognition for his crea-tivity and talent across a number of Europe’s royal courts. In 1815, King Louis XVIII of France would go on to appoint him Chronometer-maker to the Royal Navy. This marked the beginning of a long tradition of putting the house’s expertise to work for navigators, first for those in the navy and then for aviation. www.breguet.com @montresbreguet

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TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS

Collection  Type XX


Model: Type 20 Only Watch 2021

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Ref . 2065ST/Z5/398

Case
Round steel case.
Solid caseback with engraving “Breguet Type XX Only Watch 2021 Pièce Unique”.
Diameter 38.30 mm.
Thickness 13.90 mm.
Bidirectional graduated rotating bezel with triangular markings for flight calculations.
Rounded lugs. Flat crown.
Water-resistant to 3 bar (30 meters).
Dial
Bronze colored, signed Breguet.
Hours chapter with luminescent Arabic numerals.
30-minute counter at 3 o’clock.
Small seconds at 9 o’clock.
Central chronograph counter.
Luminescent “syringe”-type hands.
Movement
Mechanical manually wound movement, column-wheel chronograph with flyback function.
Numbered and signed Breguet. Cal. Valjoux 235.
13 lignes. 17 jewels.
45-hour power reserve.
183 components.
In-line Swiss lever esapement.
Annular balance wheel.
Flat balance spring.  
Frequency 3 hertz.
Strap
Calfskin leather.


Limitation: Unique piece for Only Watch 2021
 

Prices    Estimated at CHF 35,000 - CHF 50,000

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#Breguet
#breguetTradition

#BreguetChronometer
#BreguetTypeXX
#breguetAviation
#myBreguet


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Press release - 2021
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