Thursday, January 7, 2021

ZENITH – EL PRIMERO Chronomaster Revival A385

ZENITH –  CHRONOMASTER El Primero Revival A385 Steel 37mm Automatic - 2020

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ZENITH BRINGS BACK THE FIRST EL PRIMERO
WATCH WITH A GRADIENT DIAL  FROM 1969

A legend is born again: Zenith is bringing back one of the earliest and most emblematic El Primero-equipped chronographs from the earliest days of the revolutionary calibre in the form of a Chronomaster Revival model. 

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1969 was certainly a year to remember for Zenith and would go down in the annals of watchmaking history as the year that forever changed the chronograph. It was the year that the Zenith El Primero, the world’s first automatic high-frequency chronograph, was unveiled to the world. It made its debut in three distinct stainless steel models. Among them was the A385, a tonneau-shaped steel chronograph with an eye-catching brown gradient dial, which was the first “smoked” dial ever to be made in the watch industry and for Zenith

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In fact, the A385 made headlines back in 1970, when it took part in Zenith’s “Operation Sky”. This extreme test consisted of strapping the watch to an Air France Boeing 707’s landing gear on a flight from Paris to New York to test its resistance to external aggressions such as drastic temperature fluctuations, wind force and changing air pressure. Upon landing, the watch was still functioning perfectly. This daring feat was a testament to the confidence those who had tirelessly worked on the El Primero calibre held, as well as tangible proof that a mechanical movement was superior to the nascent quartz movements of the time, which couldn’t have stood the temperature differences endured by the watch during the flight. 

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After over 50 years, the time has come for the A385 to make its return in the form of a Chronomaster Revival model. Far more than just a vintage-inspired creation, the Chronomaster Revival A385 is an actual reproduction of the original model from 1969 in an exercise of “reverse engineering” by the Manufacture.  

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Using the original blueprints and production plans, each part of the A385’s 37mm tonneau-shaped stainless steel case, including the pump-style pushers, is faithful to the original 1969 model. The only differences, are the domed sapphire crystal instead of an acrylic glass and the display back instead of the closed solid steel case back, offering an unobstructed view of the El Primero 400 chronograph movement. 

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What made the A385 truly stand was its smoked brown gradient dial with a vignette effect that blackens towards the edges and provides a striking sense of visual depth, as if the dial was domed. For this Chronomaster Revival piece, Zenith sought to recreate the same warm tones and gradient effect, almost indistinguishable from the original with its red chronograph central second hand and silvery-white chronograph counters. 

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Keeping with the retro theme, the Chronomaster Revival A385 is available in two options that could have come straight from 1969: The first is the steel “ladder” bracelet, a modern remake of the Gay Frères bracelets that became emblematic of the early El Primero watches. The second option is a light brown calf leather strap that will develop a unique patina with wear and time. 

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With its historically correct proportions, striking dial and unwavering El Primero performance, the Chronomaster Revival A385 is a welcome addition to the Chronomaster lineup by those who appreciate the timeless look and feel of this exceptional chronograph.   

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The Chronomaster A385 is available at Zenith Boutiques and online shop, as well as at authorized retailers around the world.

ZENITH: TIME TO REACH YOUR STAR

Zenith exists to inspire individuals to pursue their dreams and make them come true – against all odds. Since its establishment in 1865, Zenith became the first watch manufacture in the modern sense of the term, and its watches have accompanied extraordinary figures that dreamt big and strived to achieve the impossible – from Louis Blériot’s history-making flight across the English Channel to Felix Baumgartner’s record-setting stratospheric free-fall jump.

With innovation as its guiding star, Zenith features exceptional in-house developed and manufactured movements in all its watches. From the first automatic chronograph, the El Primero, to the fastest chronograph with a 1/100th of a second precision, the El Primero 21, as well as the Inventor that reinvents the regulating organ by replacing the 30+ components with a single monolithic element, the manufacture is always pushing the boundaries of what's possible. Zenith has been shaping the future of Swiss watchmaking since 1865, accompanying those who dare to challenge themselves and break barriers. The time to reach your star is now.

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TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS

Model: EL PRIMERO Chronomaster Revival A385   

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Reference:    
03.A384.400/385.C855

Key points:
First gradient dial in watchmaking industry back in 1969
Original Revival of the 1969 Reference A385 with 37 mm diameter
Automatic El Primero column-wheel chronograph

 
MOVEMENT
Movement: El Primero 400 Automatic
Calibre: 13¼```
(Diameter: 30 mm)
Movement thickness: 6.6 mm
Components: 278
Jewels: 31
Frequency: 36,000 VpH (5 Hz)
Power-reserve.: min. 50 hours
Finishes:
Oscillating weight with “Côtes de Genève” motif
FUNCTIONS
Hours and minutes in the centre
Small seconds at 9 o'clock
Chronograph:

  • - Central chronograph hand
  • - 12-hour counter at 6 o'clock
  • - 30-minute counter at 3 o'clock

Tachymetric scale
Date indication at 4:30
CASE
 
Material: Stainless steel 
Diameter: 37 mm
Diameter opening: 32.3 mm
Thickness: 12.60 mm
Crystal:
Domed sapphire crystal with anti-reflective treatment on both sides
Case-back:
Transparent sapphire crystal
Water-resistance: 5 ATM

DIAL & HANDS
Dial:
Smoked brown gradient dial with white-coloured counters
Hour-markers:
Rhodium-plated, faceted and coated with beige Super-LumiNova®SLN
Hands:
Rhodium-plated, faceted and coated with beige Super-LumiNova®SLN
STRAPS & BUCKLES
Strap:
Light brown calf leather strap with protective rubber lining
Buckle:
Stainless steel pin buckle

Price 7900 CHF

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Reference:     03.A384.400/385.M385 


Key points:
First gradient dial in watchmaking industry back in 1969
Original Revival of the 1969 Reference A385 with 37 mm diameter
Automatic El Primero column-wheel chronograph

MOVEMENT
Movement: El Primero 400 Automatic
Calibre: 13¼```
(Diameter: 30 mm)
Movement thickness: 6.6 mm
Components: 278
Jewels: 31
Frequency: 36,000 VpH (5 Hz)
Power-reserve.: min. 50 hours
Finishes:
Oscillating weight with “Côtes de Genève” motif
FUNCTIONS
Hours and minutes in the centre
Small seconds at 9 o'clock
Chronograph:

  • - Central chronograph hand
  • - 12-hour counter at 6 o'clock
  • - 30-minute counter at 3 o'clock

Tachymetric scale
Date indication at 4:30
CASE
 
Material: Stainless steel 
Diameter: 37 mm
Diameter opening: 32.3 mm
Thickness: 12.60 mm
Crystal:
Domed sapphire crystal with anti-reflective treatment on both sides
Case-back:
Transparent sapphire crystal
Water-resistance: 5 ATM

DIAL & HANDS
Dial:
Smoked brown gradient dial with white-coloured counters
Hour-markers:
Rhodium-plated, faceted and coated with beige Super-LumiNova®SLN
Hands:
Rhodium-plated, faceted and coated with beige Super-LumiNova®SLN
STRAPS & BUCKLES
Strap:
Stainless steel “Ladder” bracelet.
Buckle:
Stainless steel double folding clasp.

Price 8400 CHF

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Press Release - 2020
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ZENITH | Swiss Watch Manufacture Since 1865
Rue des Billodes 34-36 | CH-2400 Le Locle
Minh-Tan-Bui
Tel. +41 32 930 65 59
Mobile +41 79 515 47 54
Email: minh-tan.bui@zenith-watches.com

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Tuesday, January 5, 2021

ROGER DUBUIS – EXCALIBUR Long and Feng Double Tourbillon Edition

 ROGER DUBUISEXCALIBUR Phoenix and Dragon Skeleton Double Flying Tourbillon 45 Special Boutique Edition

The Phoenix and the Dragon arise

Expressive, contemporary hyper horology interpreted with unleashed creativity reserved for an exclusive tribe in celebration of voracious hedonism. This is Roger Dubuis, for whom excess is the norm. 

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Solidly sustained by an integrated Manufacture and an unwavering determination to push every known limit to breaking point, the daring attitude of Roger Dubuis’ has led fine watchmaking aficionados the world over to come to expect the unexpected.

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Today at Roger Dubuis, we would like to pay tribute to China’s culture that has always been at the heart of our founder himself and nurtured his passion for tradition reinterpreted with modernity.

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To celebrate the new year, and reconnect with traditional cultural beliefs, the brand that dares to be different is introducing two exciting new timepieces reinterpreting powerful symbols through unmatched craftsmanship: enter Excalibur Long, representing the majestic Dragon and Excalibur Feng, embodying the gracious Phoenix.

The future of Hyper Horlogy

First in the world to introduce a double flying tourbillon, this contemporary architectural caliber is the extreme expression of our obsession: recreate the codes of hyper horology.  

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This newly introduced symbolic expression of time is a true testimonial to the ‘tradition reinvented’ spirit of Roger Dubuis and the unmistakable signature of the Maison: a perfect blend of visual magic and technical performance. Above and beyond its hypnotic aesthetic appeal, this calibre ensures an enhanced precision thanks to its differential system serving to average out the rate of the two tourbillons.

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Brought to life in a 45mm masterpiece, the iconic Excalibur Double Flying Tourbillon is this time interpreted with an unbridled artistic creativity where 18K rose gold reigns supreme. With its head placed at 12 o'clock and its body and limbs intertwining with mechanical parts of the dial, the majestic dragon seems to be playing with this grand complication in a very daring way.

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A technical and esthetic prowess perfectly mastered, where every single detail has been thoroughly thought and crafted to offer an uncompromised experience. 

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The Yin counterpart of the Dragon is here represented by the wise soul of the graceful phoenix, embracing the caliber with its wings and tail. 

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Rarity and wisdom the Excalibur Feng is simply singular. Featuring one of the most complex of all Haute Horlogerie complications, the Excalibur Feng single flying tourbillon, with its plates and bridges pared down to extremes to only leave the essential, is a spectacular demonstration of radical watchmaking expertise.

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As a flamboyant stage-setting to the highly technical nature of this tourbillon caliber, a 36mm case is here engraved with 18K rose gold. The already extraordinary allure of the Exclabur Feng is then completed with a bezel set with💎48 brilliant-cut white diamonds.

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Every part of the Feng, from the feathers to its body movement, has been fastidiously refined. Only by striking an obsessively balance in proportion and layout can the fascinating, vivid image of the Feng be brought to life, allowing it to spread its wings, with its plumage swirling around the tourbillon placed at the 7 o'clock mark.

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The micro sculpture craftsmanship, signature of the unbeatable attention to details of the Maison.
These contemporary sculpted masterpieces feature a microscopic gold engraving technique – a delicate yet highly demanding craftmanship skill highlighting their every detail: hairs, feathers, scales, and eyelids - giving life to this duo of sacred symbols in an deliberate way.

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A display of unparalleled expertise and craftsmanship, the Excalibur Long and Excalibur Feng are limited to eight pieces worldwide and come together to pay tribute to ancient Chinese culture, epitomizing Roger Dubuis’ ground-breaking spirit in a vivid illustration of the essence of a remarkable civilization.

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About Roger Dubuis

The rush of adrenalin, a pounding heart, the sure and certain knowledge that something is about to happen: ENTER THE FUTURE OF HYPER HOROLOGY. Impertinent, excessive, incisive, uncompromising, and slightly mad, this is Roger Dubuis. The brainchild of two daringly disruptive visionaries, Roger Dubuis has been all about mindset since 1995. Solidly sustained by an integrated Manufacture, an innovative spirit, a flagrant disregard for convention and irrepressible daring are the cornerstones of its bold attitude. The lifeblood of its non-conformist and unmistakably contemporary timepieces, headlined by the iconic Excalibur collection. That’s what Roger Dubuis is all about! Laugh, scream, roar, and above all, create… for an exclusive tribe that believes in the value of living larger than life at every turn. No rules, our game. Inspired by other cutting-edge industries and out-of-the-box designs, boundary-pushing technical sophistication combines with an inbred love of extravagance to prove, time and time again, that Roger Dubuis is unquestionably the most exciting way to experience Hyper Horology. Make every second of your life epic.
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TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS

Collection: EXALIBUR

Model:  EXALIBUR Long and Feng Double Tourbillon - Unique Piece

Ref. RDDBEX0901 - EXALIBUR Long

Ref. RDDBEX0902 - EXALIBUR Feng

Excalibur Long made in a limited edition of only 8 pieces.

Production:
EDITION
Boutique exclusive model Unique series 8 of 8
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Press release - 2020
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For more information, please contact:
Pauline SIZORN
Press Manager
Tel: +41(0)22 783 28 44
Email: pauline.sizorn@rogerdubuis.com
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