Bell & Ross – BR 01 CYBER SKULL 45 Black Ceramic Edition

Bell & Ross – INSTRUMENT BR 01 CYBER SKULL 45 Black Ceramic Limited Edition 2020

AT THE CONFLUENCE OF HAUTE HORLOGERIE, ART AND DESIGN

Aside from its warlike significance, the skull, an accepted sign of death, has a philosophical meaning as it symbolises the fragility and brevity of life, particularly in vanitas works of art. Memento mori (remember you must die) recall gruesome depictions in ancient paintings or in curiosity cabinets owned by humanists from the Enlightenment. 

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Mexican tradition celebrates the Day of the Dead in the month of November, and it is a time for mocking death by wearing the famous calaveras, brightly coloured decorated skulls. This irony is expressed by the BR 01 CYBER SKULL in revealing a mischievous smile when its mouth is opened. It has a timelessness displayed in its faceted relief, conveying an ancient symbol in an ultra-contemporary style.

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Today, B&R is unveiling the BR 01 CYBER SKULL. This timepiece revisits the art of the skull watch. Its design is far from the vintage style usually associated with the Skull, to establish itself in contemporary modernity. It projects this art born in the 20th century into the future. A watch with several faces, it is where watchmaking, design, symbolism and bold creativity meet. 

THE BR SKULL COLLECTION

The Bell & Ross SKULL family is approaching its tenth anniversary and has become an iconic collection with around ten of its creations all becoming collector’s items.

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2009 . BR 01 SKULL

The BR 01 SKULL was one of the first to follow in the footsteps of this skull trend, with many manufactures later following suit. This first collection also included two versions set with 415 and 672 diamonds.

2016 . BR 01 BURNING SKULL

This unprecedented version combined military symbolism and the art of tattooing. Its case, engraved with sparks, was decorated with a black lacquer reminiscent of the ink used by tattoo artists.

2018 . BR 01 LAUGHING SKULL

The SKULL family welcomed a new skull watch, fitted with one of the brand’s automaton movement. The jaw of the skull on its dial appeared to smile when activated.

THE NEW CYBER SKULL

Generally speaking, skull watches from the Bell & Ross SKULL family are rather traditional. 

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The new BR 01 CYBER SKULL marks a break with style. It turns a page. Its avant-garde design sends this iconic series into the future. Not only that, the Bell & Ross brand as a whole has launched itself towards an ultra-modern shape. The futuristic CYBER SKULL opens a door to the future.

SCULPTED LIKE A STEALTH PLANE

With its cut sides and sharp edges, the angular silhouette of the BR 01 CYBER SKULL is reminiscent of that of certain fighter planes described as invisible. Its case is modelled like the fuselage on an F117 fighter plane. To disappear from the radar and seem invisible, these bombers had faceted fuselages that waves would ricochet off. All their surfaces were faceted, making them almost undetectable to radars. This stealth technique is also used on the most sophisticated military ships, in order to conceal their visual identity as much as possible.

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Bell & Ross has chosen to adorn its CYBER SKULL with black matte ceramic. This anti-reflective colour is also used on some military vehicles. Its glazed superstructure is reminiscent of the canopy on a jet. More than just a colour, the new black matte used on the watch gets its depth from a ceramic used to match its design. Its lines, structured like those of a fighter plane, pass under the radar and establish a new language.

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In sharp contrast to classic watchmaking shapes that favour curves and roundness, the architecture of the new BR 01 CYBER SKULL exonerates it from traditional design and allows it to establish its creativity. All whilst respecting its military and aviation roots.

Each element of the watch, the case middle, bezel, crown, skull, crossbones, is structured within the many faces that sculpt the surfaces, creating volumes and a 3D image. To escape the radar but attract attention.

DESIGNED LIKE A WORK OF ART

In the same way an artist creates works that are interpreted in their own way by each person that views them, the new BR 01 CYBER SKULL reveals itself fully through the experience of those who wear it.

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Like a highly pixelated image, the SKULL reveals several sides of the same reality. Emphasised by its sharp edges, its many facets offer a fascinating play on the multiplication of perspectives, between flat and smooth surfaces. Futuristic origami? Memento mori 2.0? New cameo by a cyborg? The BR 01 CYBER SKULL produces a multifaceted approach.

In a break with the vintage style in fashion up until then, it adopts a very futuristic, angular style. Indeed it may evoke a similarity to Japanese origami, the ancestral art of folding.

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The geometric shapes of the CYBER SKULL create a pixelation effect. This phenomenon appears when the points of an image become clear. The angular representation of the skull and the tibia bones on the dial are inspired by this.

There is no doubt that the faceting of lines is a nod to the digital arts. When a digital image is still, you can see the pixels that it is made up of.

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Its extremely modern lines echo contemporary art and in particular a certain avant-garde trend. Many artists produced works related to this faceted representation of reality. Their works question our relationship with speed, sound and light.

The stunning lines of the sharp edges on the BR 01 CYBER SKULL also play with the light. Its crystal mirror dial and ceramic skull in the centre reflect the light.

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As an innovative work of its time, the BR 01 CYBER SKULL raises questions by capturing people’s eyes. Trapped between two pieces of sapphire crystal, the screwed-down skull and crossbones and the animated jaw seem to levitate. A phenomenon amplified by the middle of the faceted case with no lugs, also made from black matte ceramic.

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Inserted in the imposing volume of the case, the rubber strap is stamped with «BR», like a seal heralding a contemporary mythology. Endorsing the ultimate paradox of black which allows it to affirm the light whilst absorbing it, the BR 01 CYBER SKULL invites all possibilities. Whether a collector or newcomer, Jedi Knight or Sith Lord, everyone can have their own adventure.

CREATED LIKE AN HAUTE HORLOGERIE PIECE

Behind its provocative, symbolic and artistic face, the BR 01 CYBER SKULL hides the secrets of an automaton watch belonging to the world of Haute Horlogerie.

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Only perfect mastery of the operation of a mechanical movement could, in reality, conceal the BR-CAL 206 hand-wound movement under the faceted decoration. To make it invisible to the eye, the main plate closely follows the shape of the skull, while the bridges extend up to the four corners of the case, hidden by the tibias. An architecture like this makes the skull appear to float weightlessly inside the case. An impression which is enhanced by the total transparency of the dial, highlighted solely by 12 baton-shaped indices. Only when the watch is turned over is the key to the mystery revealed through the sapphire crystal case-back.

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In addition to the hour and minute indication, the automaton movement activates the jaw which opens and appears to snigger when the spring is wound. Making up the brain of this skull - which has finally come to life - the balance spring reveals its oscillations. The beating of the same, serves as a reminder of the watch’s mechanical heart.

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Bell & Ross chose ceramic to create this BR 01 CYBER SKULL, a high-tech material that is solid yet lightweight, both for the case and the decoration. Compounded by the brute force of the material, the aesthetic force of the timepiece merges technologies together. Fired at an extremely high temperature, the ceramic acquires a density and resistance not dissimilar to black matte, a colour that cannot be achieved with traditional watchmaking materials. Grinding using diamond powder meant the facets could be resurfaced, in the same way jewellers cut a precious stone.

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In order to maintain the purity of its design, the lugs have disappeared and the housing for the rubber strap has been cut out of the volume of the case, measuring 45 mm x 46.5 mm.

 CREATED LIKE A DESIGNER OBJECT

Since it was founded, the brand has paved the way and progressed step by step. The release of the
BR 05 last year marked a major change. This elegant sporty chic watch changed the brand’s graphic charter. It meant it was able to launch this futuristic and disruptive CYBER SKULL. 

It maintains a strong link with aeronautics. Its angular design as well as matte colours are reminiscent of military stealth bombers.

The shapes of the BR 01 CYBER SKULL consist of a multitude of facets. Its sophisticated lines reflect the complex personality of this futuristic timepiece. This spectacular piece increases angles, and points of view. It is a contemporary, avant-garde or arty watch, just as much as it is a SKULL or military one. The BR 01 CYBER SKULL is multifaceted, multiverse and multi-talented.

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This new piece in the Bell & Ross skull family, is rooted in the world of design. The angular shapes of
the CYBER SKULL break tradition with neo-vintage trend Skull watches often belong to. Its geometric lines are part of the same futuristic universe as those of cars or art.

DREAMT LIKE A FUTURISTIC ARCHITECTURE

The CYBER SKULL fits in perfectly with this style. It is characterised by the stylised and angular treatment of the skull on its dial. The human body however, skeleton and skull included, do not have angles. They only have curves. However, the skull on the Bell & Ross timepiece swaps its natural curves for geometric and angular shapes. The brand’s designers were not aiming to reflect the reality but to create a sensation.

Its case is inspired by the original BR 01 but its contours have been revised with sharp edges that give it an ultra-contemporary look. The CYBER SKULL also plays with light and transparency. In some ways, it is similar to the architecture of today. Avant-garde buildings play with the sky, they reflect it to make sure they blend in. 

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Avant-garde and sculpted, the Bell & Ross BR 01 CYBER SKULL reinvents the style of the skull watch. Unifying, it can move art lovers and aesthetes in the same way it can move watch collectors. This ultra-modern watch pushes the watchmaking brand into the future. It opens a door towards... new horizons. 

AN AVANT GARDE MECHANICAL JEWEL

Not belonging to any set family, the BR 01 CYBER SKULL lays claim to avant-garde Haute Horlogerie. Breaking with tradition, it finds its raison d’être in the rich history of the Bell & Ross SKULLS family which was launched in 2009 and broke traditional watchmaking codes. 

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The symbol of a new generation, the BR 01 CYBER SKULL embodies the story of a successful conclusion. The story of a brand for whom each detail has a meaning and purpose.

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Technical Specifications

Collection: INSTRUMENTS

Model: BR 01 CYBER SKULL

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Ref. R01-CSK-CE/SRB

MOVEMENT
Skeletonised Calibre BR-CAL.206.
Hand-wound mechanical
CRYSTAL sapphire with anti-reflective coating
FUNCTIONS
Hours and minutes.
Moving skull when wound by han   
CASE
LENGTH 45 MM, WIDTH 46.5 MM.
Matt black ceramic
Water-resistance . 50 metres
DIAL
Skeletonised. Black ceramic skull.
Metal skeleton Super-LumiNova®-filled hour and minute hands and indices.
Balance at 12 o’clock
STRAP
Black rubber
Buckle . pin. Black PVD coated steel
 

Edition
Limited edition of 500 timepieces

Global retail price on request

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Press Release - 2020
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VACHERON CONSTANTIN – TRADITIONNELLE Tourbillon Qilin Edition

VACHERON CONSTANTIN – TRADITIONNELLE Tourbillon Under the favourable auspices of the Qilin Limited Edition 2020

Traditionnelle Tourbillon: Under the favourable auspices of the Qilin

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• Haute Horlogerie and artistic crafts unite in an 18-piece numbered limited edition.
• A hand-guilloché dial gold dial adorned with two Qilin, symbols of wisdom, prosperity and peace,
created using the pounced ornament technique.
• An 18K 5N pink gold case entirely engraved by hand.
• An exceptional tourbillon manual-winding movement with a 14-day power reserve, Calibre 2260
 

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Geneva, 30 November 2020 - Its appearance is an auspicious omen, its depiction a pledge of peace and prosperity. Heralding good news as well as conveying both wisdom and bliss, the Qilin deploys its fantastic powers at the heart of the Traditionnelle Tourbillon. Under the favourable auspices of this fabled creature reproduced on two appliques engraved using the ramolayé pounced ornament technique, Vacheron Constantin brings to life a masterpiece of sophistication skilfully combining Haute Horlogerie and artistic crafts.

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The Traditionnelle collection is distinguished by an avant-garde technical repertoire served by eminently classical codes inherited from 18th century Geneva Haute Horlogerie. At the confluence of aesthetic creativity and high mechanical complication, the Traditionnelle Tourbillon reveals a new facet of its personality through the prism of artistic crafts. Stemming from a blend of patience and meticulous workmanship, the expertise of Vacheron Constantin's engraving craftsmen is powerfully expressed here. The result is a masterful staging of the path of time, under the benevolent gaze of two Qilin, noble fantasy creatures from Asian mythology.

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This Traditionnelle Tourbillon timepiece is issued in an 18-piece numbered limited edition, exclusively available in Vacheron Constantin boutiques.

 Fine line and pounced ornament engraving carve the face of time

Emerging from the hand-guilloché gold dial and finished with a black galvanic treatment, two gold appliques represent the fabled Qilin figure with extraordinary finesse. These genuine miniature sculptures are created by dint of extremely precise work using the ramolayé pounced ornament technique.  

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The latter consists of pushing back the material by cutting into, scraping or softening it in order to give volume to a two-dimensional drawing. To achieve this, artisans use their own individual methods and self-made tools – small stones, brushes, paper or files – serving as an exact extension of their hand.

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This irreversible work is a delicate, skilful blend of softness and strength, revealing an infinite world of details on a gold surface no more than 0.4 mm thick. Rhythmically punctuated by raised and hollowed areas, flat and curved surfaces, matt and polished finishes, the coat and scaly skin of the Qilins is revealed in a strikingly realistic manner, accentuated by a subtle play on light and shade.

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The fine line engraving technique adorning the stepped sides of the case (emphasised by a fluted caseback), the slim bezel and the curved lugs, sets the scene for a lucky-charm cloud motif. This pattern contributes to enriching the aesthetic appeal of this elegant watch, embracing the wrist with a black alligator leather strap.

 The Qilin, a highly symbolic creature

The Qilin belongs to the pantheon of figures populating Asian mythology, and it only appears during periods of peace and prosperity. In the Chinese tradition, this fantastic creature reigns over furry animals, just as the Phoenix reigns over feathered animals, the Dragon over animals with scales and the Turtle over those with a shell. 

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Often depicted as a duo – Qi meaning the male and Lin, the female – its appearance betokens a happy omen. The mythical creature is a combination of different animals, and every part of it is a symbol of auspices and beauty in the ancient society. For example, a body of the deer stands for power, the skin of fish stands for affluence, a tail of the ox stands for devotion, etc. Qilin’s benevolence and gentleness are among its greatest virtues. So much so that it does not move across any living creature, including plants, for fear of damaging it, generally preferring to travel on water or clouds.

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For this reason, the two Qilin engraved on the dial of the Traditionnelle Tourbillon appear on a bed of lucky clouds, a traditional motif adorning ancient Asian artefacts. As a final detail, the two Qilin respectively stand one of their hooves on one traditional Chinese item. The Qi (male) on the globe, a symbol of authority and prosperity; and Lin (female) on an ingot, a harbinger of good fortune.

Calibre 2260, an exceptional tourbillon

To bring this timepiece to life, Vacheron Constantin has chosen its in-house mechanical manual-winding Calibre 2260. Designed to compensate for the adverse effects of the Earth's gravity on the movement, the tourbillon is considered to be one of the most sophisticated mechanisms in the realm of Haute Horlogerie.

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On the dial of this model, it is majestically revealed at 6 o'clock in its openworked mobile carriage shaped like a Maltese cross, topped by an entirely hand-chamfered bar. This ingenious construction conceals two sets of series-coupled barrels measuring a total 2.20 metres in length and endowing the movement with an exceptional two-week power reserve. 

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For the sake of balance and harmony, the latter is indicated along the same axis as the tourbillon, on a 280° sector. The show continues through the case-back enabling one to admire the meticulous finishing of the movement adorned with a “Côtes de Genève” motif.

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Summary

Vacheron Constantin unveils a masterpiece of technical and aesthetic refinement embodying the perfect blend of Haute Horlogerie and artistic crafts. The hand-engraved guilloché dial and 18K 5N pink gold case of the Traditionnelle Tourbillon timepiece are further enhanced by the talent of the Maison's engraving artisans.

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Their sure, deft touch is illustrated by the use of pounced ornament and fine line engraving techniques to depict the Qilin, a fabled animal symbolising wisdom, peace and prosperity. Beating steadily behind the scenes is the in-house mechanical manual-winding tourbillon Calibre 2260 with its exceptional two-week power reserve. A world of details and sophistication converging this highly symbolic watch exclusively available from Vacheron Constantin boutiques in an 18-piece numbered limited edition.

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Technical Specifications

Model:  Traditionnelle Tourbillon Under the favourable auspices of the Qilin

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 Reference  89000/000R-B645

Movement 
Calibre  2260
Developed and manufactured by Vacheron Constantin
Mechanical, manual-winding
29.1 mm (12¾’’’) diameter, 6.8 mm thick
Approximately 336 hours of power reserve (14 days)
2.5 Hz (18,000 vibrations/hour)
231 components
31 jewels
Hallmark of Geneva certified timepiece
Indications
Hours, minutes
Small seconds on tourbillon carriage
Tourbillon
Power-reserve indicator
Case
18K 5N pink gold
42 mm diameter, 12.22 mm thick
Hand-engraved bezel, case-band and lug sides
Transparent sapphire crystal caseback
Water-resistance tested at a pressure of 3 bar (approx. 30 meters)
Dial
Hand-guilloché, black galvanic treatment
Hand-engraved 22K 5N pink gold applied Qilin
Strap
Black Mississippiensis alligator leather strap with alligator leather inner shell, hand-stitched, saddle-finish, large square scales
Clasp
18K 5N pink gold folding clasp
Polished half Maltese cross-shaped

Limited Edition of 18 pieces, individually numbered.
Only available in Vacheron Constantin Boutiques.


World price: 180'000 € / 197'000 USD


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#OneOfNotMany #TRADITIONNELLEtourbillon

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Press Release - 2020
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Vacheron Constantin
Press Department
10, Chemin du Tourbillon
P.O. Box 95
CH-1228
Plan-les-Ouates/Geneva
Tel. +41 22 930 20 05
Fax +41 22 930 20 06
press@vacheron-constantin.com
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