Thursday, August 6, 2020

F.P.Journe – Chronometre a Resonance Double Time 2020


F.P.JourneCLASSIQUE Chronomètre à Résonance Double Time Platinum-Rose Gold 2020

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THE CHRONOMÈTRE À RÉSONANCE F.P.JOURNE
celebrates its 20 th anniversary

The first observations pertaining to the natural resonance phenomenon were made by 17 th century Dutch scientist Christiaan Huygens, fol-lowed by 18 th century horologists Antide Janvier and Abraham-Louis Breguet, who developed timepieces based upon this principle. Since then, François-Paul Journe is the first and only watchmaker to manufacture wristwatches that perform through acoustic resonance.

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When he presented his first Résonance wristwatch in 2000, it was baptized Résonance under the patented brand name Résonance® . The F.P.Journe Chronomètre à Résonance is the only wristwatch in the world that utilizes the physical natural resonance without any mechanical transmission phenomenon, previously known as double pendulum or double balance.

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Conceived, developed and built to meet the demands of actual wear on the wrist and thereby provide chronometric performance driven to extremes, this watch represents one of the wildest challenges in the field of mechanical watches! Each of the two balances alternately serves as exciter and resonator.

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When the two balances are in movement, they enter into harmony thanks to the resonance phenomenon and begin to beat naturally in opposition. The two balances then support each other, giving more inertia to their movement. This result is possible only if the difference of the frequency from one to the other does not exceed 5 seconds per day cumulated on six positions. Their setting is an nextremely delicate task.

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Whereas an external disturbance affects the running of a traditional mechanical watch, the same disturbance, for the Chronomètre à Résonance, produces an effect that accelerates one of the balances as much as it slows down the other. Little by little, the two balances come back towards each other to find their point of harmony, thus eliminating the disturbance, and beating in perfect synchronization.

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This emblematic watch that distinctively signs François-Paul Journe’s horological research on precision was awarded “Montre à Grande Complication” at the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève in 2010.

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François-Paul Journe has conceived several versions of his wristwatch throughout the last 20 years; the first 20 by Subscription (2000), the first collection series (2001), the Ruthenium series (2001-2002), with movement in 18K rose Gold (2005), the digital 24 hours Résonance (2010), the analogic 24 hours Résonance (2019), and the new Chronomètre à Résonance (2020).

Moving towards more precision, always!

The new Chronomètre à Résonance has only one single barrel spring to provide power for the two movements. A differential placed on the first wheel, visible in the centre of the dial, transmits, independently, the energy of the barrel spring towards the two secondary gear trains. Each sec-ondary gear train is equipped with a Remontoir d’Egalité of a frequency of 1 second. Working in such a way, the force received by the escapements remains linear and assures isochronism throughout 28 hours.

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The Chronomètre à Résonance features a redesigned case with a crown now placed at 2 o’clock easing the winding of the watch in position 0 and the time setting in position 2, clockwise for the left dial and anti-clockwise for the right dial. The pulling of the crown at 4 o’clock simul-taneously resets both seconds.

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On the movement side, 2 «Remontoirs d’Égalités» (constant-force device) provide a linear force to each of the two balance springs to remain isochronous during 28 hours.



This model is available with a case in Platinum or in 18K 6N Gold in 40 or 42 mm diameter. The dial is proposed in 18K white or 6N Gold with 2 hour subdials in whitened Silver Guilloché clous de Paris. Leather strap or Gold or Platinum bracelet.

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TECHNICAL CHARACTERISTICS

Collection: CLASSIQUE 

Model: Chronomètre à Résonance Double Time

Movement
Calibre 1520 in 18 K rose Gold
Manual winding / 31 turns of crown
Dimensions
Overall diameter: 34.60 mm
Casing-up diameter: 34.20 mm
Overall height: 7.97 mm
Height of winding stem: 3.39 mm
Diameter of stem thread: S1.20 mm
Number of parts_
Movement: 378
Cased up with strap: 427
Jewels: 62

Balance
  • 2 Independent linear escapements, 15 teeth
  • 2 Independent balances with 4 inertia weights
  • 2 Flat micro-flamed Anachron balance springs
  • 2 Mobile stud carriers
Free sprung
  • 2 Springs laser pinned to Nivatronic collets
  • 2 Pinned GE studs
Frequency: 21’600 v/h, 3Hz
Inertia: 10.10 mg*cm 2
Angle of lift: 52°
Amplitude: 0 h dial up: > 260° / 24 h dial up: > 260° 
Main Characteristics_
  • 2 Remontoirs d’Égalités
  • 2-position winding crown at 2h
Manual winding in position 0
Time adjustment in position 2: clockwise for the left dial and anti-clockwise for the right dial
Resetting the seconds to zero by pulling the crown at 4h
Indications
Double time display:
  • Left analog - indicating 24 hours
  • Right analog - indicating 12 hours
  • 2 small seconds at 6h
  • Power reserve at 12h
Total Autonomy_
42 hours
Efficient running time: 28 hours ± 2
Finishing
High quality
Partial circular graining on baseplate
Geneva waves on bridges
Screw heads polished and beveled, with chamfered slots
Pegs with polished rounded ends
Steel components hand-finished
Dial
18K white or 6N Gold and whitened Silver hour dials with guilloché clous de Paris
Case
Platinum or 18 K 6N Gold
Diameter: 40 or 42 mm
Total height: 11 mm
Strap
Alligator straps
Pin Buckle
Gold or Platinum bracelet.


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Press release - 2020
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MONTRES JOURNE SA
Brigitte Bocquet-Makhzani - Communication
International PR & Events Manager
17, rue de l’Arquebuse – 1204 Geneva – Switzerland
Tel : +41 (0)22 322 09 09
Fax : +41 (0)22 322 09 19
e-mail: bmakhzani@fpjourne.com
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Wednesday, August 5, 2020

ARMIN STROM – SYSTEM 78 Gravity Equal Force Rose Gold


ARMIN STROMSYSTEM 78 Gravity Equal Force Rose Gold Automatic - 2020

Collection SYSTEM 78 
new rose gold and black dial

After the great success of the Armin Strom Gravity Equal Force premiere model in stainless steel, the edition is now being supplemented by a 18ct rose gold with black alligator leather strap. The black dial gives the remarkable timepiece an elegant retro character and highlights the new design of the watch with striking contrast.

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This state-of-the-art design creates a stable, low-friction axis of rotation for the mainspring to deliver power from the barrel arbor, supported by precision jewel bearings. Though using only a portion of the mainspring by preventing it from completely unwinding, Armin Strom still achieved a power reserve of 72 hours. Wound by a unidirectionally winding micro rotor visible from the dial, the mainspring bears a power reserve indicator on the barrel cover for reference.

With numerous small improvements to the going train and winding mechanism, the new Caliber ASB19 demonstrates Armin Strom’s commitment to continually questioning established theory and using in-house R&D to advance horological technology. Claude Greisler, co-founder of Armin Strom, highlights the improved usability: “We have reinvented the whole functionality of an automatic watch movement to bring another level of precision and to offer our collectors more assurance for reliable daily wear.”

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The new Gravity Equal Force also differs from previous models with a new off-center dial and slimmer case with a smaller diameter. The highlight of the watch is now the triplet of bridges echoing the pocket watch inspiration behind the ASB19. The 41-millimeter case, a first for Armin Strom, should appeal to the more classically-inclined collector.

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The contemporary dimensions maintain the essence of Armin Strom DNA while shaping a new aesthetic that showcases a reduction to the essential. Moving to an off-center dial, the Gravity Equal Force is more legible to maximize the user experience for discerning collectors.

The Armin Strom Gravity Equal Force is the first model of the new System 78 Collection. It features a 18ct rose gold case and is priced at CHF 26,900.

Gravity Equal Force inspiration and development

Gravity Equal Force represents a drive to constantly improve Armin Strom watches with every model. As a creative watch brand focused on innovation, Armin Strom’s watchmakers and movement engineers routinely research and explore concepts across the horological landscape in search of ways to rethink theory and practice.

The Gravity Equal Force development began with a desire to deliver equal force to the regulating system. The result was a stop-works declutch mechanism incorporated into the barrel housing ensuring consistent power delivery to the balance and escapement.

Utilizing a Geneva wheel mounted to the barrel housing cover, the rotation of the mainspring barrel is limited to just 9 full turns out of a possible 12.5. This represents the central 72% of the mainspring’s potential torque curve, the flattest and most consistent portion. As the barrel housing unwinds around the arbor, a pin counts off the rotations on the Geneva wheel until it reaches the locked position and prevents further unwinding.

This limit keeps the power delivery to the balance as consistent as possible and the amplitude in optimal range. Once it reaches the upper limit, the declutch mechanism guarantees the slip of the mainspring and allows the micro-rotor to turn evenly when fully wound.

A small declutch lever is attached to the Geneva wheel that marks its rotation and power reserve from full to empty. Sitting atop the barrel cover, the power reserve location will change as the watch is wound, providing some playful variation in the dial display.

The new stop-works declutch mechanism coincides with a complete reassessment of the mainspring barrel construction. When a U.S. client brought a vintage pocket watch to Armin Strom for repair, it created an opportunity to explore techniques that were common in earlier watches and update them for use in a modern movement.

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Upon inspection it was discovered that it bore a motor barrel whose barrel and winding mechanism are constructed opposite that of the standard going barrel. The standard design sees a central arbor often supported by jewel bearings rotating inside the barrel to wind the mainspring. Once fully wound, the arbor remains fixed while the mainspring pushes the barrel housing and so driving the going train.

A typical mainspring barrel doesn’t rotate in a precision jewel bearing but around the arbor, which means higher friction and less precise rotation. The Armin Strom motor barrel design reversed this so that the barrel housing stays locked after winding, allowing the well supported and more precise arbor to rotate and drive the going train.

This simple change goes against at least a century of tradition, yet, when assessed objectively, it is clear that it is a demonstrably better system as it is more precise and stable during operation of the movement. Armin Strom’s watchmakers built on this idea to create an entirely new watch that launches a brand-new collection.

The development of Caliber ASB19 sees continued improvement throughout all the components thanks to the technological advancement of the previous centuries. A new layout combined with improved geometry for the gear teeth and adjustments provides smoother operation and more robust functionality.

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Armin Strom’s focus on innovation and development was kickstarted during the development of its groundbreaking Resonance Clutch Spring and has led to the watchmakers rethinking everything in an attempt to innovate where others stagnate. This isn’t limited to mechanics alone; the entirety of Armin Strom’s design aesthetic is evolving to build a new core moving forward.

The previous openworked display has been replaced by a dial offset from the center, providing a clear indication for the time to avoid any confusion. Retained are the visible barrel and micro rotor, though now supported by clean geometric bridges harkening to pocket watches of the past. The entire presentation has the goal of reducing details to the essential for a cohesive package.

The previous case design has been trimmed down to create the first 41-millimeter case for Armin Strom. The iconic lip at 6 o’clock, which can be traced back to Mr. Armin Strom himself, is still present, though in a much more streamlined form. Armin Strom has taken the opportunity to improve finishing on every component throughout the movement, creating a new standard for Armin Strom calibers.

The entire philosophy of development at Armin Strom is reorganizing to focus on updating the aesthetic design to signify a new chapter for the brand. The intention is to take every opportunity to rethink watchmaking theory, improve each new watch, and take Armin Strom’s level of finishing ever higher.

System 78 – A new entry to Armin Strom

The Gravity Equal Force signals a new direction for the brand, launching the System 78 collection to replace the Single Barrel Collection. The collection is intended to be the entry point for Armin Strom, an haute horlogerie collection at a reasonable price point with impeccable finishing and constant invention.


It’s not self-evident that we can present our watchmaking values and hunger for innovation to a broader audience. It was a big challenge to offer this level of perfection for that price” says Serge Michel, Founder of the Manufacture. The name displays what the brand hopes to create, a System of fine watchmaking available to all who desire it. Every piece will feature an innovation as well as showcasing the watchmaking philosophy of Serge Michel and Claude Greisler, co-founders of the modern Armin Strom, both born in the same year, 1978. Thus the System 78 collection is born.

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TECHNICAL CHARACTERISTICS

Collection: SYSTEM 78

Model:  Gravity Equal Force Rose Gold

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Ref. RG19-GEF.85.AL.M.35

Movement
Armin Strom manufacture Caliber ASB19
Automatic winding with microrotor,
Geneva-drive equal force barrel, offset display with subdial seconds
Regulating system: Balance wheel with 4 regulating screws
Power reserve: Geneva stop-work limited to 72 hours
Dimensions: 35.52 mm x 11.67 mm
Frequency: 3.5 Hz (25,200 vph)
Finishing: Hand-finishing to the highest quality level
Jewels: 28
Number of components: 202
Indications
Hours, minutes, seconds, power reserve indicator
Case
18ct rose gold
Sapphire crystal and case back with anti-reflective treatment
Diameter: 41 mm
Height: 12,65mm
Water resistance: 3 ATM
Dial
Offset with subdial
Hands: Manufactured by Armin Strom – rose gold with hand finishing
Strap
Delivered with a genuine black alligator leather strap and 18ct rose gold ardillon buckle
A 18ct rose gold double-folding clasp is an option.

Price: CHF 26,900

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Press releases - 2020
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ARMIN STROM AG |
Bözingenstrasse 46
CH-2502 Biel-Bienne | Switzerland
Tel. +41 (0)32 343 33 44
Fax +41 (0) 32 343 33 40
info@arminstrom.com
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For more information relating to this press release or to Armin Strom:
Bettina Fleury, Armin Strom AG,
Tel. +41 32 343 33 44, b.fleury@arminstrom.com
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