Thursday, July 2, 2020

BREGUET – Tradition Automatique Seconde Retrograde 7097 Edition


BREGUETTradition Automatique Seconde Rétrograde 7097 Boutique Edition 2020

New Tradition Models for the Breguet Boutiques

In 2005, the House of Breguet launched the Tradition collection of timepieces distinguished by a unique construction: the movement components are showcased on top of the mainplate.

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This year the original and remarkable line presents a new design version of the Tradition Automatique Seconde Rétrograde 7097 with a blue colored guilloche dial. This new model will be exclusively available in Breguet boutiques.

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This wristwatch, like the rest of the collection, inspired by the subscription watches, recalls the genius of Abraham-Louis Breguet who first invented these one-hand pocket watches in 1796.

They were fitted with a special movement of great simplicity and sold by subscription: a down payment of a quarter of the price on order and the rest on delivery. A.-L. Breguet used the movements of his subscription watches to create his first tact watches.

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The Tradition 7097 pays tribute to the beauty of the calibers of the subscription and tact watches by revealing the bridges, wheels, escapement, barrel and other components of the movement, which are usually hidden beneath the mainplate. Refined finishing enhances the visual balance displayed by the symmetrical bridges.

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The bridges and mainplate are decorated to achieve a uniform, finely grained surface, which requires rare skill and faultless execution. The gold winding rotor borrows its shape from historical movements while the classic clous de Paris (hobnailing) guilloche pattern, executed by hand, highlights the blue dial in gold, positioned off-center at 12 o'clock.

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This timepiece gets its name from the retrograde seconds hand at 10 o'clock. The hours and minutes are shown by Breguet-style open-tipped hands in rhodium-plated steel.  In order to provide optimum readability and to highlight the retrograde seconds’ complication, Breguet watchmakers used a semicircle with a circular brushed finish superimposed on the dial. To maintain the symmetry, the pare-chute is located at 4 o'clock. This Breguet invention, which protects the balance staff from shocks, can be identified at a glance as the emblematic feature of the Tradition collection. It is the forbear of all the shock-protection mechanisms in use in watch-making today, including the Incabloc system.

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The 7097 reference features advanced technology. Its 40mm case houses a movement with an inverted in-line lever escapement with silicon pallets and a silicon Breguet overcoil balance spring that guarantee exceptional precision.

The Tradition Automatique Seconde Rétrograde 7097 watch is the result of the technical and aesthetic excellence which Breguet consistently strives for. Its refined and pure style honours the legacy of the House, while its technical characteristics are the prerogative of a watchmaking company that is resolutely turned towards the future.

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TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS

Collection  Tradition

Model:  Tradition Automatique Seconde Rétrograde 7097 Boutique Edition

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Ref. 7097BB/GY/9WU

Case
18-carat white gold with delicately 

Delicate flute decoration fluted caseband.
Sapphire case back (transparent back cover).
Diameter 40mm.

Height: 7.45 millimeters
Lugs and screw bars brazed to the case.
Water resistant to 3 bar (30m).
Dial
Blue dial in gold

Engine-turned and offset at 12 o'clock. 
Individually numbered and signed Breguet.
Hours chapter with Roman numerals. Retrograde small seconds at 10 o'clock. 

Breguet open-tipped hands in rhodium-plated steel.
Movement
Self-winding movement, numbered and signed Breguet. Cal. 505SR1

14½ lignes. 38 jewels. 50 hours power reserve. 
Gold winding rotor borrowing its style from Breguet antique watches. 
Straight-line inverted lever escapement with silicon pallets. 
Breguet overcoil balance spring in silicon. 
Balance frequency 3Hz.
Adjusted in 6 positions.
Strap
Blue alligator strap,
18-carat white gold folding buckle.

Tax-included price  / $36,700


Available  in Breguet Boutique around the world


#breguet
#breguetTradition
#breguet7097
#myBreguet
#myBreguetmoment

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Press release - 2020
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Wednesday, July 1, 2020

A. Lange & Sohne – ZEITWERK MINUTE REPEATER Edition


A. Lange & Sohne ZEITWERK MINUTE REPEATER White Gold Edition 2020

Presented in 2015, the ZEITWERK MINUTE REPEATER is the world's only watch that combines a mechanical jumping numerals display with a decimal minute repeater. The complicated timepiece – its assembly alone requires several months – has so far been available only in platinum. Five years after its debut, it now comes in a limited 30-watch edition in white gold with a deep-blue dial.

The ZEITWERK MINUTE REPEATER features a totally new interpretation of the classic complication. Its striking mechanism – it sounds ten-minute intervals instead of quarter-hours with double strikes – is a convincing logical complement to the "digital" display of the time.

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As soon as the striking mechanism is activated with the repeater pusher at 10 o'clock, it sounds the time as indicated on the dial. One hears what one sees. And one sees what one hears. At 7.52, for instance, the gong hammer on the left strikes the low-pitched gong seven times, once for every elapsed hour. Then, five double tones are struck for the elapsed ten-minute intervals, followed by the right-hand hammer with two high strikes, one for each elapsed minute. The polished gongs and the black-polished gong hammers are subtly integrated in the design of the dial.

Special design features

In the development of the striking mechanism, Lange's engineers relied on the basic principle of the jumping numerals mechanism with which the time is displayed by an hour ring and two minute discs. This configuration makes it possible to sample the number of strikes to be executed – separately for the hours, ten-minute intervals and minutes – directly on the snails that are connected to the mechanical display elements.

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At the same time, enlarged sampling surfaces enhance the reliability of the striking mechanism. This assures that the acoustic time always corresponds to the displayed time.

Pusher instead of slide

The ZEITWERK MINUTE REPEATER features a unique pusher mechanism for triggering the repeater. Because the power for the striking mechanism is delivered by the mainspring barrel, there is no need for a slide – common in minute repeaters – to tension a separate spring.

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The absence of a large lateral opening in the case eliminated a source of acoustic disruption, thus improving the sound quality. And since a pusher, unlike a slide, can be sealed, the ZEITWERK MINUTE REPEATER is water-resistant to as much as 3 bar.

Harmonious sound

To achieve the best possible sound quality, the product developers carefully reconciled all relevant parameters such as the case, gong hammers, gongs and movement architecture with one another. The large white-gold case delivers a reverberant, warm sound. The gongs, patiently tuned by hand, generate pure, resonant tones in perfect harmony.

Finesse in details

The ZEITWERK MINUTE REPEATER stands out with a number of refined technical features that in particular optimise its operation.

Since a switching action could cause mechanical conflicts while the repeater is running, the numerals discs are prevented from incrementing until the repeater sequence has ended. This can take up to 20 seconds. The delay also assures that the digitally displayed time and the acoustic time are always the same.

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For the same reason, the crown cannot be pulled while the striking mechanism is active. The actuation of the repeater pusher uncouples the wheel train of the winder from the ratchet wheel that drives the striking mechanism. This prevents the wheel train of the winder, including the crown, from rotating during the repeater sequence, which would result in an unnecessary loss of energy.

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Finally, when the power reserve drops to less than twelve hours, the striking mechanism can no longer be activated. This assures that the repeater sequence is always executed in full: The watch will not stop unexpectedly before the strike sequence has been completed. On the power-reserve indicator, the 12-hour mark is identified with a red dot.

Jumping numerals mechanism

With their precisely jumping numerals display, the ZEITWERK models stand for uncompromising purity of design. Consisting of three discs, the display module is arranged in such a way that the time, with large-format numerals, can be read from left to right in the natural way. With a gentle click and hardly discernible to the human eye, the patented jumping numerals mechanism advances from minute to minute until, at the top of the hour, all three numerals discs simultaneously jump forward by precisely one increment.

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An exceptionally strong mainspring is required to handle these switching actions. It is equally important to assure the controlled deceleration of the abruptly accelerated discs to rule out damage to the movement. This is done with a fly governor that absorbs excess energy after each switching sequence.

Constant-force escapement

As all models of the ZEITWERK watch family, the ZEITWERK MINUTE REPEATER also features a patented constant-force escapement between the barrel and the balance that acts as a pacemaker for the instantaneous advance of the numerals discs in one-minute intervals.

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At the same time, it makes an important contribution to rate stability by assuring that the balance – regardless of the state of wind of the watch and despite energy-intensive switching processes – is powered with a consistent amount of force across the entire power-reserve duration.

Flawless craftsmanship

Composed of 771 parts, the manufacture calibre L043.5 is completed by hand with extreme care and utmost patience. Of the 93 jewels, three are set in screwed gold chatons.

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The hand-engraved balance cock – the artistic signature of all Lange watches – was given a design complement: the escape-wheel cock engraved with the same motif.

Edition 2020

Five years after its debut in 2015, the ZEITWERK MINUTE REPEATER now comes in a 44.2-millimetre white-gold case with a matching deployant. The deep-blue dial in solid silver contrasts beautifully against the rhodiumed German silver time bridge. A blue hand-stitched leather strap highlights the elegance of the timepiece. Limited to 30 watches, this edition is available exclusively in the 33 A. Lange & Söhne boutiques.

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Technical Specifications

Model:  ZEITWERK MINUTE REPEATER Edition


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Reference  147.028

Movement
Calibre L043.5
Number of parts     771        
Screwed gold chantons     1        
Power reserve     36 hours        
Frequency 18,000 A/h / 3 Hz
Rubies     93
Case 
Measurements     White gold
Diameter     44.2 millimetres        
Height     14.1 millimetres    
Dial
Deep blue solid silver,
Hands rhodiumed gold
Bracelet
Stainless Steel bracelet, folding clasp  with logo A. Lange & Sohne


Edition    Limited to 30 timepieces
This edition is available exclusively in the A. Lange & Söhne boutiques.

Price: 437.700*
*Recommended retail price in Germany including VAT. Non-binding quotation, prices subject to change.

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Press Release - 2020
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Contact information for the media
Arnd Einhorn, Director Press and PR
* Tel.: +49 (0)35053 44-5505
* E-mail: presse@lange-soehne.com
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