Saturday, May 9, 2020

ZENITH – EL PRIMERO A384 Chronomaster Revival “SHADOW”
















ZENITHEL PRIMERO A384 Chronomaster Revival “SHADOW” Titanium 37mm Automatic - 2020


A Zenith Mystery Comes full circle in the Chronomaster Revival “Shadow”, a timepiece inspired by an obscure prototype from 1970.

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A timepiece shrouded in mystery. Its existence has eluded collectors and Zenith collaborators alike for decades. As the legend goes, in 1970, not long after Zenith debuted the groundbreaking El Primero calibre, the manufacture had produced a prototype of a manual-winding chronograph, housed in a blackened steel case – a rarity for the time.

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Only a handful of this spectral prototype was made, but the model was never officially produced or commercialized. Many watchmakers and longtime employees of Zenith had heard of and even seen one of the rare prototypes, even though official records about this piece are extremely scarce.

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Fast-forward to 2019. As Zenith began celebrating the 50th anniversary of the seminal El Primero chronograph calibre, the team at the manufacture began to go through the secret walled-off attic where Charles Vermot had once hidden all the plans and parts necessary to produce the El Primero movement.

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There among the countless artifacts was a box and in it, the original prototype of the black chronograph that hadn’t been seen by anyone since the early 1970’s. For the team, surely this couldn’t be a coincidence, but fate calling. It was enthusiastically agreed that the timing was perfect to complete the black chronograph project that had begun almost 50 years ago.

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The Chronomaster Revival “Shadow” reimagines what could have been, rather than directly reproducing a historical Zenith timepiece. Inspired heavily by the obscure black chronograph prototype from 1970, the Shadow is housed in a 37mm case, a faithful reproduction of the very first watch fitted with the El Primero, the A384.

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But instead of the traditional choice of stainless steel with a superficial layer of black coating, Zenith has opted for microblasted Titanium, bringing out the dark grey nuances of the lightweight yet highly durable metal with its completely matte finish. And unlike the prototype from 1970, which feature a manual-winding chronograph movement, the Chronomaster Revival Shadow features the most prolific automatic chronograph ever made, the El Primero, visible through the display back.

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In spite of its dark demeanor, the Shadow remains a highly legible chronograph, with grey counters and tachymeter scale subtly contrasting against the deep, matte black dial.

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The hands and applied markers are filled with white SuperLuminova that emits a bright green glow in the dark. The black rubber strap with a cordura-effect features a touch of white on the stitching, fixed to a microblasted titanium pin buckle that matches the stealthy finish of the case.

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TECHNICAL DETAILS

Collection: Ll Primero
 
Model:  EL PRIMERO Revival A384 SHADOW

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Reference: 97.T384.4061/21.C822

Additional name    Shadow
    Revival of the 1971 Reference A384
    Original 1969 case with 37 mm diameter
    Automatic El Primero column-wheel chronograph
MOVEMENTCalibre: El Primero 4061, Automatic
Caliber: 13 ¼ ‘’’ (Diameter: 30 mm)
Movement thickness: 6.6 mm
Components: 281
Jewels: 31
Frequency: 36,000 VpH (5 Hz)
Power-reserve: min. 50 hours
Finishes: Oscillating weight with “Côtes de Genève” motif
FUNCTIONS
Hours and minutes in the centre
Small seconds at 9 o’clock 
Chronograph:
  • central chronograph hand
  • 12-hour counter at 6’clock
  • 30-minute counter at 3’clock
Tachymetric scale
CASE
Dimeter: 37 mm
Material: Stainless steel
Dimeter opening: 32.3 mm
Thickness: 12.60 mm
Crystal: Domed sapphire crystal with anti-reflective treatment on both sides
Case-back: Transparent sapphire crystal
Water-resistance: 5 ATM
DIAL & HANDS
Dial: Black satin-brushed dial
Hour-markers: Rhodium-plated, faceted and coated with Super-LumiNova® SLN C1
Hands: rhodium-plated, faceted and coated with Super-LumiNova®SLN C1
STRAPS & BUCKLES
Strap:  Black "Cordura" effect
Interhorn 19/16
Strand length 110/75
Family CS Leathe
Reference 27.00.19316.822
Buckle: Microblasted titanium pin buckle
Reference 27.97.0016.002


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Press Release - 2020
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ZENITH | Swiss Watch Manufacture Since 1865
Rue des Billodes 34-36 | CH-2400 Le Locle
Minh-Tan-Bui
Tel. +41 32 930 65 59
Mobile +41 79 515 47 54
Email: minh-tan.bui@zenith-watches.com
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Friday, May 8, 2020

LAURENT FERRIER – Grand Sport Tourbillon


LAURENT FERRIER Grand Sport Tourbillon – Blue Gradient Opalin Dial Steel 44 Edition


Laurent Ferrier is widely known for creating classical watches imbued with traditional watchmaking crafts and mechanical excellence. Now, the esteemed Genevan atelier has crafted a new contemporary watch, the Grand Sport Tourbillon, which upholds the company’s no-compromise approach to watchmaking.

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Housed in a sporty 44mm stainless steel case, this is the brand’s first model equipped with an integrated stainless steel bracelet. This new addition to Laurent Ferrier’s portfolio of models features a tourbillon, double balance spring, and the firm’s legendary exalted finishing.

For the first time, the Maison has equipped a watch with an integrated stainless steel bracelet. The central row of the 3-rows design is comprised of vertical satin finished links. The rounded edges of the links are presented in a contrasting mirror-polish. These details imbue the bracelet and case ensemble with a sumptuous appearance.

COMFORT IN MIND

The 44mm stainless-steel case, with its cushion-shaped bezel against a slightly tonneau middle case, features all the design codes of a Laurent Ferrier timepiece with smooth rounded lines and a refined aesthetic, but it also presents a powerful new design with increased strength and character.

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Like all of his creations, Laurent Ferrier designed the Tourbillon Grand Sport case for the wrist so that it would be extremely comfortable and a pleasure to wear throughout the day. Every aspect of the experience of wearing the watch has been considered, from the sensation of winding the crown in the morning, to checking the time while driving home at night. A closer look reveals refined crown guards, sporty bolts on the case back and highly polished parts next to satin finished elements that accentuate the attention to detail and exceptional workmanship that has gone into the fabrication of this unique case.

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A closer look reveals refined crown guards, sporty bolts on the case back and highly polished parts next to satin finished elements that accentuate the attention to detail and exceptional workmanship that has gone into the fabrication of this unique case.

A  KEEN SENSE OF DETAIL

The year 2019 is not only the anniversary of the founders’ motor racing careers, it is also the 10th anniversary of the conception of the brand’s first tourbillon. It is for this reason that the Tourbillon Grand Sport features this highly-appreciated complication.

The tourbillon device created by Abraham-Louis Breguet in 1801 is fitted with a double balance spring. The two reversed-fitted balance-springs neutralise the lateral displacement of the balance axis, while the tourbillon compensates for the variations in rate in all vertical positions. Associating these two devices combines their advantages and ensures impressively high rating precision.

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Laurent Ferrier has also developed its own escapement mechanism. In association with the tourbillon, with a specifically adapted construction and a rigorous choice of materials and manual adjustments, the regulating organ ensures excellent precision. The Tourbillon caliber is indeed chronometer-certified by the Besançon Observatory.

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The mechanical hand-wound movement, entirely developed and produced within the Laurent Ferrier workshops, is fitted with a double balance-spring tourbillon crafted in the finest traditional manner. Visible exclusively through the sapphire caseback, the mechanism is not a mere aesthetic enhancement, but also discreetly serves its former functional purpose of guaranteeing the precision and reliability of the regulating system.

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The calibre construction is inspired by the major 19th century chronometry models with their manual-winding system featuring a long-blade-type ratchet pawl system distinguished by the delicate mechanical clicking sound emitted during winding. The movement has been given a horizontal satin-brushed finish with a ruthenium touch for a sportier allure and has been finished with extreme care, as evidenced by the manual decoration on the tourbillon carriage bridge. The design of the bridges is inspired by pocket-watches and the decoration is executed in keeping with the finest watchmaking traditions, including 30 hand-crafted interior angles.

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The present-day styling encompasses an opaline dial that transitions from blue at its center to black near its periphery. Both the hands and indexes feature orange Super-LumiNova, vitalizing the overall composition. A snailed small seconds display resides above 6 o’clock and sits beneath a gently arcing tinted sapphire crystal, granting a rounded appearance when viewed from the side.

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TECHNICAL DETAILS

Model: Grand Sport Tourbillon Stainless steel

Ref.  LCF 041.2.AC.C1GO

Movement
Manual winding
Calibre FBN 619.01
Power reserve: 80-hour
 - Hours and minutes in the centre
 - Small seconds at 6 o’clock on tourbillon frame pivot
 - Tourbillon rotating cage visible through sapphire case back
 - Horizontal satin brushed bridges with a ruthenium treatmentIndications: Hours, minutes, small seconds at 6 o’clock
Movement diameter: 14’’’ = (Ø 31.60 mm)
Movement thickness: 5.57 mm
• Number of parts: 188
Number of jewels: 23
Frequency: 21,600 vph (3Hz)
Movement decoration
Côtes de Genève pattern on the bridges and the circular graining on the mainplate, flanks are hand-drawn, wheel spokes are bevelled, screw heads are polished, and interior angles of the balance-cock are hand crafted with a burin.
Tourbillon features
Tourbillon, opposite double balance spring
“Swiss” lever escapement
Balance at variable geometry, with screw
Tourbillon frame carrier in periphery
Case
Stainless steel
Dimensions: 44 mm
3 parts, middle, bezel and bottom hooked
Sapphire bottom, tourbillon movement vision
Water resistant at 100 meters
Tinted sapphire glass
Satin finishing on the sides and polished bezel
Sporty bolts on the case back
Dial
Blue gradient opaline in the center and black at the periphery
Small second at 6 o’clock
Indexes: 18K/750 210Pd white gold with orange superluminova
Hands 
18K/750 210Pd white gold
Hours and minutes: ‘’Assegai-shaped’’ with orange superluminova
Seconds: baton-type
Strap
Stainless steel bracelet
Taupe, folding clasp

Unique Limited to only 12 pieces


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Press Release - 2020
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Laurent Ferrier SA
Ms­­ Jessica­­ Gasser
Route de Saint Julien 150
1228­­ Plan Les Ouates
Switzerland

Telephone+41 22 716 33 87
Telefax+41 22 341 64 08
Contact : PR@LAURENTFERRIER.CH
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