Monday, January 29, 2018

BOVET – Amadeo® Fleurier VIRTUOSO V Gold


BOVETAmadeo® Fleurier Complications VIRTUOSO V White Gold 43.5mm

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VIRTUOSO V
Jumping hours, retrograde minutes, reversed hand-fitting

Introduced to the BOVET collections in 2015, Virtuoso V was the first timepiece powered by the Virtuoso II caliber to feature additional complications. These were a jumping hour paired with retrograde minutes. Three years later, the Maison’s artisan watchmakers and dial-makers have joined forces to give it a new face.

The dial occupies the entire surface of the movement, giving the piece a new identity. While the watchmakers worked on displaying all the information on the same level, the dial-makers designed a completely original guilloché motif for the dial. The original stepped arrangement has given way to greater classicism, which enhances the artistic crafts and exemplary finishes of all the components.

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The dial-makers drew on their considerable talent to create this new face. After decorating the metal base with a guilloché motif, they applied a dozen layers of translucent blue lacquer, before finally polishing it to give a perfectly flat surface. This created depth and enchanting reflections that give the timepiece its magic. In addition to the concentrated technical skill and artistry emanating from the timepiece, its design has become purer and its readability even greater.

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In terms of technology, the Virtuoso V integrates two complications that are difficult to combine: jumping hours and retrograde minutes. The jump of the hour disk must be perfectly synchronized with the jump of the minute hand. This timepiece belongs to the Fleurier Complications Collection and is fitted with the patented Amadeo convertible case, allowing it to be transformed into a reversible wristwatch, a table clock, or a pocket watch, without the need for a single tool.


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As a result, hours and minutes can be found on both sides of the movement. A power reserve indicator completes the indications by displaying a remarkable autonomy of five days, ensured by the use of a single barrel. Finally, to add to the timepiece’s functions, the watchmakers developed a corrector independent of the hour disk that can display a different time zone on each side of the timepiece.

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With this latest interpretation of an already renowned timepiece, the owner of the Maison BOVET, Pascal Raffy, and his artisans have revealed references that will delight collectors attentive to technical skill and appreciative of the noblest expression of the decorative arts.

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TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS

Collection: Amadeo®
Model: Amadeo® Fleurier VIRTUOSO V Gold

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Ref. ACHS016 White Gold
Ref. ACHS025 18K Red Gold

MOVEMENT
Caliber    
Calibre Virtuoso II à spécialités
horlogères DIMIER 1738
 13BM11AIHSMR
Type    Hand-wound
Diameter    13 ¾’’’
Frequency    21’600 vph
Power reserve    5 days
CASE
Type    Amadeo® convertible
Diameter    43.5mm
Thickness    15.70mm (With Glasses)   
Thickness    11.80mm (Without Glasses)   
Gold Weight    83.06gr (red gold) / 86.05gr (white gold)
Case Material    18K red or white gold
Water Resistance    30m
DIALS
Blue guilloché   
Functions
Jumping hours, retrograde minutes.
Reversed hand-fitting (hours, minutes and seconds), power reserve indicator.
PATENT
Amadeo® convertible case

STRAP
Bracelet    Full skin alligator
Buckle    18K red or white gold ardillon
Chain    Gold-plated or rhodium-plated silver


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Press release - 2018
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Saturday, January 27, 2018

PANERAI – L’ASTRONOMO Luminor 1950 Tourbillon Moon Phases Equation of Time GMT
















OFFICINE PANERAIPAM00920 - L’ASTRONOMO Luminor 1950 Tourbillon Moon Phases Equation of Time GMT – Titanium 50mm 2018

SIHH 2018

L'Astronomo - Luminor 1950 Tourbillon Moon Phases Equation of Time GMT is the first of Officine Panerai’s creations to have moon phases indication and an innovative system using polarised crystal to indicate the date.

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Innovation and high quality watchmaking are combined in the new L’Astronomo - Luminor 1950 Tourbillon Moon Phases Equation of Time GMT, the latest creation dedicated to Galileo Galilei. A Luminor 1950 case, whose iconic design is part of the fascinating history of Officine Panerai, encloses a concentration of technical solutions which demonstrate the ability of the Florentine brand to interpret traditional complications in ways which are always distinctive, bringing innovation into the world of high quality sports watchmaking.

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The first Panerai L’Astronomo, presented in 2010 on the occasion of the 400th anniversary of the celestial observations made by Galileo as a result of the invention of the telescope, was the first timepiece created by Panerai with a tourbillon regulator, calendar, equation of time indication and the display of the times of sunrise and sunset.

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Like its predecessor, the new L’Astronomo - Luminor 1950 Tourbillon Moon Phases Equation of Time GMT is made to order, and the skeletonised movement, the P.2005/GLS (standing for Galileo Luna Scheletrato), is personalised to operate in accordance with the geographical coordinates of a place chosen by the client.

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It provides the same range of remarkable functions as the first L’Astronomo, and in addition, GMT and two other innovations: indication of the phases of the moon and an original system for displaying the date using polarised crystals.

THE MOON PHASE INDICATOR

On the back of the new L’Astronomo’s P.2005/GLS movement is a day/night indicator which also clearly displays the phases of the moon, by means of a system consisting of two superimposed discs which rotate in combination. The upper disc – which is read by a small external index fixed onto the movement – displays the 24 hours of the day, showing the sun during the hours of daylight and the stars of the sky at night.

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At the centre of the starry sky is a little round window through which the lower disc can be seen; on this appears the moon, its shape evolving day by day as a result of a small supplementary rotation of this disc of about 6.1° per day, a figure based on the exact duration of one lunar cycle (an average of 29 days, 12 hours, 44 minutes and 3 seconds).

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Given that each watch movement is made according to the coordinates of a place chosen by the watch’s owner, the indication of the moon phases always relates to the sky above that place, and of course it also takes account of the difference between the earth’s northern and southern hemispheres.

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Like the moon phase indicator, the indicators of sunrise and sunset times are connected to home time and therefore, if the owner of the watch should find himself in a city with a different time zone from that of the chosen city, these indicators will continue to show the situation at the time at home, which is indicated by the GMT hand.

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Finally, at six o’clock is the linear indicator of the equation of time, which displays the difference between actual time (solar time) and conventional time on each day, this period ranging between plus 15 minutes and minus 15 minutes, according to the time of year.

A POLARISED CRYSTAL DATE DISPLAY DESIGNED TO 
INTEGRATE PERFECTLY WITH THE 
SKELETONISATION OF THE P.2005/GLS MOVEMENT

As well as the moon phase indicator, the hand-wound P.2005/GLS calibre also has the characteristic Panerai tourbillon escapement, which can be admired both from the front as well as from the back of the watch thanks the sophisticated work of skeletonising the movement and the absence of an actual dial.

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All the elements which would be found in a traditional dial appear on the movement or the flange, and the two spring barrels, which store enough power to last at least four days, are visible through the open back, which also enables the power reserve indicator mounted on the movement to be read.

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In a watch with this construction, a date disc designed in the traditional way would to some extent conceal the fascination of the skeletonised movement, because it would cover part of the components. The Laboratorio di Idee at the Manufacture in Neuchâtel has therefore designed an innovative system – pending patent by Panerai – in which the date disc is made of borosilicate glass and the numbers of the days have laser-modified optical properties.

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The numbers are virtually invisible in all positions except for the one that is aligned with the little date window, where a further polarized crystal, situated above the date disc, causes the number to appear so that it is perfectly legible.

THE TOURBILLON REGULATOR 
PATENTED BY PANERAI

In the system patented by Panerai, the tourbillon’s rotation is different from that of the classic tourbillon. The cage of the balance rotates continuously on itself, to correct any alterations caused by gravity and possible friction. In this innovative mechanism patented by Panerai, the cage rotates on an axis at right angles to the balance, not parallel with it.

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Also, while the traditional tourbillon rotates once in one minute, that of the P.2005/GLS rotates once in 30 seconds, and its rotation can be seen by an indicator in the small seconds counter at 9 o’clock. The higher speed and the particular arrangement of the mechanism mean that any possible alterations of rate are effectively compensated, resulting in more accurate timekeeping.

AN EXCLUSIVE CREATION, 
MADE TO ORDER AND PERSONALISABLE

As well as the technical personalisation of the P.2005/GLS movement, the new L’Astronomo - Luminor 1950 Tourbillon Moon Phases Equation of Time GMT also provides the opportunity of selecting the material and finish of the case, the colour of the hands and that of the Super- LumiNova® which makes the watch’s indications extremely readable even in the dark, as well as the colour of the alligator strap.

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In this way each client can create an individual watch of great character and elegance, for example choosing between a red gold or a white gold case, or the brushed titanium case of the basic version of the L’Astronomo for a more sporty and functional appearance. In each instance, the watch is water-resistant to 10 bar (a depth of about 100 metres).

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Link to HD photo album BIG FOTO
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Technical Specifications

Collection: L’ASTRONOMO

Model: PAM00920 Luminor 1950 Tourbillon Moon Phases Equation of Time GMT


Movement
Skeleton hand-wound mechanical,
Calibre P.2005/GLS , executed entirely by Panerai,
15¼ lignes, 12.15 mm thick,
43 jewels, Glucydur® balance, 28,800 alternations/hour.
Incabloc® anti-shock device.
Power reserve 4 days, three barrels.
451 components.
Functions
Hours, minutes, small seconds, date, months indicators,
second time zone, 24h indicators, sunset and sunrise indicator,
equation of time, tourbillon, moon phases
Case
Brushed Titanium 
Diameter 50mm
Bezel polished titanium
Back see-through sapphire crystal
Device protecting the crown (Protected as a trademark) Brushed Titanium
Crystal sapphire crystal
Water Resistance 10 bar (~100 metres)
Strap
Alligator, Black, Tone on tone, 26/22 MM Standard


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Press Release - 2018
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