Tuesday, June 21, 2016

LOUIS MOINET – Memoris 200th Chronograph Edition


















LOUIS MOINETMEMORIS Chronograph Rose Gold 200th Aniversari Limited Edition NEW

A new version of the first chronograph-watch in history is being released to celebrate the bicentenary of the chronograph, invented by Louis Moinet in 1816.

The date: 2016; the place: Basel; the event: a celebration of the bicentenary of the chronograph, invented by Louis Moinet in 1816. This exceptional jubilee marks the first proper commemoration of the creation of the Compteur de Tierces, the first chronograph in history.

For this unprecedented occasion, Ateliers Louis Moinet is unveiling an anniversary version of its Memoris timepiece, created for the bicentenary of the Chronograph. “We were keen to have a highly exclusive new edition to celebrate the bicentenary of the chronograph,” explains Jean-Marie Schaller, CEO of Ateliers Louis Moinet. “Following on from the first Memoris watches, unveiled in 2015 to celebrate our tenth anniversary, this bicentennial edition opens up a whole new chapter of celebrations – and the next decade of Louis Moinet creations.” 

A new rose gold case

For this very special edition, Memoris will be housed in a 46 mm rose gold case, whose 52 parts are held together by six visible, functional screws on the bezel. Especially created for Memoris, the case sports alternating brushed and polished finishes, and bears the Louis Moinet signature on the side. In homage to the watchmaking skills of our forebears, it features chevé concave crystals, now made from scratchproof sapphire.

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Within the case sits the chronograph – moved to the fore, on the dial side. When the pusher is depressed, every single aspect of the chronograph’s action can be admired in its entirety. The column wheel orchestrates the graceful ballet of the mechanism of steel and gears, passing information to the hands. To ensure no part of the chronograph mechanism is obscured, the counters are made from a specially-manufactured translucent material.

The innovative movement, meanwhile, is neither a skeleton nor a supplementary module: rather, it has been designed for and around the chronograph. Indeed, Louis Moinet has opted to place the time mechanism on the back of the automatic movement, beneath the plate.


Memoris universalis

The bicentennial edition also sports all-exclusive decoration, the centrepiece of which is a special shade of midnight blue for the chronograph plate, mirroring the actual colour of the sky at night. A host of individually hand-engraved stars shine forth, each crafted using a brand new fixed graver technique. This involves attaching a specially-made lathe to a traditional rose engine (also known as a guillocheuse).

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The idea is to combine the power of the rose engine with the precision of a handheld graver. The end result differs from that produced by milling or stamping: while it resembles the effect traditionally associated with a guillocheuse inasmuch as material is removed, here the process focuses on a tiny area with varying levels of depth – two characteristics that traditional engine turning seeks to avoid at all costs.

What is more, individual stars are all fashioned with different angles and depths, so that each and every one captures as much light as possible. This requires the fixed graver to be used many times – an unprecedented technique in watchmaking. The outstanding result gives the novel impression of stars actually shining, twinkling with unique splendour against the backdrop of the night-blue plate beneath them.

The Memoris Anniversaire unveiled at Baselworld 2016 comes in a limited edition of 20 pieces.

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Technical specifications:

Model: MEMORIS 

Collection:  Limited Edition to 20 exemplaires 
Reference:  LM-54.50.20

Movement and finish
Automatic, «Energie Plus» system
Automatic click movement with chronograph function on dial;
hours and minutes off-centre at 6 o’clock.
302-component LM54 caliber, designed and manufactured by Louis Moinet
Winding: Automatic, bi-directional
Oscillations: 28,800 vibrations per hour
Frequency: 4Hz
Balance wheel: Glucydur, chronometer quality
5 position settings
Lines: 13 ¼
Power reserve: 48 hours
Jewels: 34
Diameter: 30.40 mm
Height: 8.90 mm
Decoration: Côtes de Genève, diamond-polished facets, diamond-cut chamfers and circular gears
with 5N colour finish and straight-line steel.
Features and functions
Monopusher chronograph with column wheel
Chronograph mechanism visible on dial
Hours and Minutes (at 6 o’clock)
  • Seconds (at 9 o’clock)
  • 60-second chronograph (central hand)
  • 30-minute chronograph counter (at 3 o’clock)
Dial and hands
Chronograph hand, “Monogram” design
Hour & Minute “Gouttes de Rosée”® dew-drop hands, blue-tinted with luminous coating
Rounded enamel dial, diamond cut bead
Hand-painted mainplate, engraved with fixed graver technique
Translucent flange and counter bridge
“Energie Plus” system
Pawl winding mechanism
Pawl winding system: comprises a baseplate and two jewelled pawls ‘Crab claw’ spring mechanism
Gearing: automatic wolf-teeth gear
Ball bearing: 7 Myrox balls (ceramic), diameter: 0.397 mm
Oscillating weight: Dual material, with concentric “Clous de Paris” and “Fleur-de-lis” pattern
Case and strap
Case: Original Louis Moinet®, composed of 52 pieces,
design with two-part bezel and 6 screws, assembled at a 17° angle
Monopusher:Clous de Paris” pattern
Material: 18K Rose gold
Diameter: 46 mm
Thickness: 15.75 mm
Water resistance: 50 meters
Case back: Fitted with 7 screws, engraved with individual number and Louis Moinet symbols
Lugs: Screwed settings (1 black zircon jewel and 3 screws per lug)
Crystals: Two convex sapphire crystals with non-reflective coating on both faces
Crown protection: Patent pending
Distance between lugs: 24 mm
Strap: Hand-sewn Louisiana alligator leather with alligator lining
Buckle: 18K Rose gold folding clasp with “Fleur-de-lis” motif, two-strand, black DLC-treated steel

Presentation box
Louis Moinet book

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Saturday, June 18, 2016

H. MOSER & CIE. – PIONEER Perpetual Calendar






















H. MOSER & CIE.PIONEER Perpetual  Calendar Red Gold and Black DLC-finished Titanium NEW

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H. MOSER & CIE. MAKES THE PERPETUAL CALENDAR MORE ACCESSIBLE
WITH A VERSION FOR EVERYDAY WEAR


In theory, sand, water and high-tech mechanics do not mix well. However, H. Moser & Cie. has developed a perpetual calendar in its Pioneer collection that is the first complication of its kind to be water-resistant to 120 metres. Why? To be on time for the ice-cream man? For those who think it's important to sport a stylish timepiece even on the beach? To seduce mermaids? Well, yes and no. Some may say "pointless". H. Moser & Cie. would argue "incredibly practical".

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In 2015, H. Moser & Cie. launched the Pioneer collection. Bold and modern, the mark of a pioneering and
adventurous spirit, with a strong design which makes reference to the industrial world, models in this
collection are both elegant and comfortable – perfect for everyday wear. The Pioneer Perpetual Calendar
follows the same philosophy: a perpetual calendar which is easy to use and comfortable to wear.

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Edouard eylan, CEO of H. Moser & Cie., sums up: "Without a doubt, the perpetual calendar is the most useful
complication of all. But, because the mechanism can be fragile, it is often kept safely hidden away in a box.
With the
Pioneer Perpetual Calendar, we wanted to create a piece that is perfect for everyday wear, on land
or in water, with its complex mechanism protected in a lightweight, robust and watertight case."
The case of
the Pioneer Perpetual Calendar is akin to a suit of armour, measuring 42.8 mm in diameter, and made of
several sections. This modular case is made from 5N red gold, featuring black DLC-finished titanium
components continuing the modern interpretation in the exceptional non-geometric shapes adorning the
sides of H. Moser & Cie models.

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The Pioneer Perpetual Calendar features an ardoise fumé dial. To emphasise the practical aspect of this
model, its leaf-shaped hands are filled with Superluminova® and complemented by luminescent markers
indicating the hours on the flange. As for the strap, H. Moser & Cie. has chosen black alligator leather. The
boldest customers, however, will choose the rubber strap.

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At the heart of the Pioneer Perpetual Calendar beats the legendary H. Moser & Cie. perpetual calendar
calibre, a marvel of ingenuity and complexity enhancing a complication which is executed with absolute
simplicity. It features 12 indices indicating both the hours and the months, a date window at 3 o'clock, an off-
centre small seconds at 6 o'clock and a power reserve indicator at 9 o'clock: powered by the HMC 800 hand-
wound movement, this watch guarantees a generous minimum 7-day power reserve.

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With its Pioneer Perpetual Calendar, H. Moser & Cie. is reinterpreting the perpetual calendar, bringing it into
the 21 st century and ranking it amongst those models which marry style and practicality. Guaranteed to
delight water sports fans and fish alike!


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TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS 

PIONEER  Perpetual Calendar

Reference: 3800-0900,  
5N red gold model, pocket watch-type case, white enamel dial, crocodile leather strap

Case
Case in multiple sections, in solid 5N red gold and black DLC-finished titanium
Diameter: 42.8 mm, height: 15.0 mm
Curved sapphire crystal and see-through case back
Black DLC-finished titanium screw-in crown adorned with an “M
Water resistant to 120 metres 
Dial
Ardoise fumé with sunburst pattern
Red gold applique indices, with hour markers in Superluminova®
Flange with fluted structurePower Reserve at 9 o’clock
Hands
Leaf-shaped, partially skeletonised, red-gold finish
Superluminova® luminescent elements on hands
Movement
Mechanical hand-wound in-house calibre HMC 800
Diameter: 34.0 mm or 15 lignes, height: 6.3 mm
Frequency: 18,000 Vib/h
32 jewels
Power reserve: minimum 7 days
Stop seconds
Double barrel
Interchangeable Moser escapement
Original Straumann Hairspring® with stabilised Breguet overcoil
Pallet fork and escapement wheel made from gold
Movement and components hand-finished and decorated 
Functions
Perpetual flash calendar
Big date display
Month indicator via central hand
Hours and minutes
Power reserve indicator on dial
Leap year cycle indicator on movement side 
Strap
Strap in black alligator leather or black rubber
Pin buckle in black DLC-finished titanium
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Press release 
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CONTACT
Nathalie Cobos, T +41 76 319 03 09, press@h-moser.com
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H. MOSER & CIE.
MOSER SCHAFFHAUSEN AG
Rundbuckstrasse 10
CH-8212 Neuhausen am Rheinfall
Switzerland
TEL.          +41 52 674 0050
FAX          +41 52 674 0055
E-MAIL      info@h-moser.com
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