Saturday, January 16, 2016

FERDINAND BERTHOUD – The contribution made to horology




























FERDINAND BERTHOUD – The contribution made to horology

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The contribution made by Ferdinand Berthoud
to horology

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His initial successes as a researcher and the awarding of the title of master by order of the King

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Obliged to work as a watchmaker’s companion for the masters of the Parisian guild, due to not having served his apprenticeship with one of them, the young Berthoud managed to overcome this hurdle by drawing attention to “his considerable application in perfecting the art of watchmaking”. He seized the opportunity of publishing his research at the French Royal Academy of Science by submitting the description of a new construction in a sealed envelope.

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The academics’ approval on April 26th 1752 of a longcase equation clock, considered highly ingenious, marked the beginning of his career as a researcher and at the same time, enabled him to stake his claim of official integration within the watchmaker community. On December 4th 1753, the King ordered that he be named a maître (master), a title that allowed him to open a workshop in the Rue de Harlay, near Place Dauphine.

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In 1754, the master once again submitted his inventions to the Academy. One was his first marine clock project. The others, examined and approved by the academics, were also equation systems: “a longcase equation clock with concentric seconds marking the months and days of the month, leap years, and which runs for 13 months without being wound”; as well as a watch with seconds and equation, marking the months and days.

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Even prior to being named a master, Ferdinand Berthoud indicated the direction he wanted his career to take – namely to devote himself to research and transmit his know-how through publications and teaching. This double vocation enabled him to rapidly make a name for himself in the scientific world of his time.

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Several articles in the Encyclopaedia published by Diderot were entrusted to him, and most particularly the article entitled “Equation”. In 1759, he published a successful treatise on popularization entitled, L’Art de conduire et de régler les pendules et les montres. A l’usage de ceux qui n’ont aucune connaissance d’horlogerie (The art of operating and adjusting clocks and watches.

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To be used by those with no knowledge of watchmaking). In 1763, his extensive treatise - L’Essai sur l’horlogerie ; dans lequel on traite de cet Art relativement à l’usage civil, à l’Astronomie et à la Navigation (An Essay on Horology; in which we deal with this Art in relation to its civil application, to Astronomy and to Navigation) was also well received.

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Affirmation of his vocation and official recognition of his work

1763 marked a turning point in Berthoud’s career, which was now bound up with the development of maritime navigation. The Academy of Science once again both witnessed and supported the horologist’s request for the opening of two reports, respectively deposited in 1760 and 1761. These described the N°1 maritime clock.

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Convinced by his skill, the academics obtained permission from the Minister of the Navy to send him to London to examine the Harrison marine clock. This opportunity demonstrated his worth and resulted in his nomination as a foreign member of the Royal Society on February 16th 1764.

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On August 29th of that year, Ferdinand Berthoud once again made a submission concerning the “construction of a marine watch…” This was the last time, as Berthoud was now sure of where he was going with his research and of having the option of seeking official support.

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Berthoud marine clock2, with motor spring and double pendulum wheel, 1763.

His projects were the subject of detailed requests punctuating his activities and in this context, he suggested the construction of two marine watches on May 7th 1766.
After successful experimentation with the N° 6 and 8 which are housed at the Musée des arts et métiers (Museum of Arts and Crafts), Ferdinand Berthoud was awarded a certificate entitled Brevet d’horloger Méchanicien du Roi et de la Marine ayant l’inspection de la construction des Horloges marines (Watchmaker and Mechanic to the King and Navy with construction inspection of marine clocks) created especially for him on April 1st 1770.

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FERDINAND BERTHOUD – Horloge de marine № 6 - 1777

From this time onwards, he abandoned the management of his workshop-boutique in favour of his research. He confirmed in 1792 that: “It is mainly since 1770 that I have been completely focused on this and I have in a way left the field of public work”.

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A tenacious investigator, a skilled and daring builder, and an inventor anxious to share his knowledge, Ferdinand Berthoud not only took part in improving horology; he also fostered the use of precision clocks in the sciences of his time, thus contributing to their progress.

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The title, privileges, and forms of recognition which punctuated his career, between the reign of Louis XV and the First Empire, as well as the tributes and studies which marked his critical fortune until the present day, reflect the importance of his position in the long quest for precision, from Huyghens’ discoveries right up to Guillaume.

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 1727-1807
Horologist-mechanic by appointment to the King and the Navy
1727                              Ferdinand Berthoud is born on March 18 to a distinguished family of clockmakers at Plancemont in the Val-de-Travers, now in Switzerland’s canton of Neuchâtel.
1745                              At the age of 18, Ferdinand Berthoud settles in Paris to study clockmaking.
1753                              A decree of King Louis XV’s council awards the 26-year-old Ferdinand Berthoud the title of Master Clockmaker.
1755                              Ferdinand Berthoud writes a number of reference papers for the Encyclopédie méthodique edited by Diderot (1713-1784) and Alembert (1717-1783).
1763                              Publication of a two-volume horological treatise, Essai sur l’horlogerie
1764                             Ferdinand Berthoud is elected to the Royal Society in London as an “associate overseas member” thanks to his masterpieces and his publications about watchmaking
1768                             The marine chronometers N° 6 and N° 8 were proved to be successful onboard the corvette “L’Isis” during a 18-month journey from Rochefort to Santo Domingo. The marine chronometer N°8 alloed to determine the real position on the map of the boat and calculate the longitude within half a degree thanks to astronomical observations.
1770                              After successful sea trials of the marine chronometers N° 6 and N° 8, Ferdinand Berthoud is commissioned as Horologist-mechanic to the King and the Navy, and receives a royal command for 20 marine chronometers for the French admiralty’s numerous charting expeditions and marine surveys of the late 18th century.
1802                             Ferdinand Berthoud publishes a major work: Histoire de la mesure du temps par les horloges, a history of time measurement by clocks that demonstrates his immense knowledge of horological mechanics.
1804                             On July 17, Napoleon I makes Ferdinand Berthoud a Knight of the Legion of Honour as a member of the Institut de France. 
1807                             Ferdinand Berthoud publishes his last work, Supplément au Traité des montres à Longitudes
                                      On June 20, 1807, Ferdinand Berthoud dies at the age of 80 in Groslay (France)
                                      His nephews, Pierre-Louis Berthoud (1754-1813) and Charles-Auguste Berthoud (1798-1876) successfully carry on the work of their uncle to earn renown as chronometer-makers. 

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Chronométrie FERDINAND BERTHOUD SA
Rue des Moulins 20
Case postale 128
2114 Fleurier, Val-de-Travers (NE)
Switzerland
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Friday, January 15, 2016

H. MOSER & CIE. – ENDEAVOUR Perpetual Calendar HERITAGE Edition

H. MOSER & CIE.ENDEAVOUR Perpetual Calendar HERITAGE 5N Red Gold White Enamel Limited Edition NEW

LINKING TRADITION AND MODERNITY: THE PERPETUAL CALENDAR HERITAGELIMITED EDITION FROM H. MOSER & CIE.

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Neuhausen am Rheinfall, January 15 th , 2016
 
Marking the 10 th anniversary of its perpetual calendar, H. Moser & Cie. pays tribute to exceptional artisanwatchmaking. This exceptional timepiece is an exercise in style linking tradition and modernity, two elementswhich coexist in all creations by H. Moser & Cie. The Perpetual Calendar Heritage Limited Edition is a salute towatchmaking past and present. It is the distillation of H. Moser & Cie's 187 years of watchmaking expertise.


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The inspiration behind the Perpetual Calendar Heritage Limited Edition came from an H. Moser pocket watch datingfrom the late 19 th century in the H. Moser & Cie. collection. The case on this model, made from a striking blue,engraved enamel and studded with diamonds, inspired the watchmakers at the Schaffhausen-based Manufacture toreinterpret this watch, calling on the best craftsmen to work on the case. Featuring "cloisonné" enamel on a casewith two covers, guilloché, engraving and setting techniques as well as "Grand Feu" enamel on the dial, inassociation with a modern in-house, hand-wound calibre made from solid gold: the Perpetual Calendar Heritage Limited Edition is the synthesis of the greatest arts in watchmaking craftsmanship.

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It also symbolises the linkbetween the past and the present for H. Moser & Cie., founded in 1828, through a reinterpretation of an historicwatch which retains its original features, now in a larger dimension and fitted with a strap. The red gold case withtwo covers has therefore been enlarged and features extremely fine lugs, while respecting its original design. Oneither side of the watch is a cover with hand-engraved, guilloché decoration, extending up the side of the case.These have then been enamelled, demonstrating the highest level of craftsmanship, and set with diamonds on thedial side. Paired with a crocodile leather strap, this beautifully rounded case is as smooth as a pebble. In reference tothe historic timepiece, H. Moser & Cie. fitted its Perpetual Calendar Heritage Limited Edition with a notched crownequipped with the Double Pull Crown system and fitted with a push-button mechanism for opening the upper casecover.

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The dial, also enamelled, is decorated with Roman numerals. The scales of the track showing minutes and smallseconds are a further reference to tradition, as is the dovetail shape of the two main hands, which are flame-blued, as well as those for the power reserve and small seconds.

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The third central hand, which is black, shows the monthsof the year using the twelve indices, like the famous Endeavour Perpetual Calendar. A large window at 3 o'clock shows the date, displayed using two discs.

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The beating heart of this exceptional timepiece is the high-performance HMC 341 calibre. Made from 18-carat solidgold, this movement is set with two diamond end-stones. It guarantees the Perpetual Calendar Heritage Limited Edition a minimum 7-day power reserve, thanks to its double barrel.

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Representing the culmination of nearly 200 years of history, the in-house HMC 341 calibre can be adjusted forwards or backwards at any time of day via thecrown. This marvel of haute horlogerie anchors the Perpetual Calendar Heritage Limited Edition firmly in thepresent, making it a timepiece which is unmistakably of its time.

H. MOSER & CIE. – HERITAGE Pocket watch from Limited Edition HMC Collection, date: late 19 th century

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H. MOSER & CIE. – HERITAGE Pocket watch from Limited Edition HMC Collection, date: late 19 th century

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TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS 

ENDEAVOUR Perpetual Calendar HERITAGE Limited Edition

Reference: 8341-0400,  
5N red gold model, pocket watch-type case, white enamel dial, crocodile leather strap

Case
Pocket watch-type case in 5N red gold
Diamond-set (28 diamonds, 0.31 carat) and enamelled
Diameter: 46.0 mm, height: 13.6 mm
Sapphire crystal
Dial
White "Grand Feu" enamel dial
Hand-painted Roman numerals
Dovetail-shaped blued hands
Month indicated with a small arrow-shaped centre hand
Offset small seconds
Large date display at 3 o’clock
Movement
Mechanical hand-wound in-house calibre HMC 341
Diameter 34.0 mm or 15 lignes, height 5.8 mm
Frequency: 18,000 vibrations per hour
28 jewels and screwed gold mounts
Power reserve: minimum 7-day with a double barrel
Solid 18-carat gold plate and bridges with a matte finish, hand chamfering and hand-engraved hallmark
True bevel wheels and Moser tooth system for all wheels and pinions
Interchangeable Moser escapement
Original Straumann Double Hairspring®
2 genuine, functional diamond end-stones in the incabloc shock-absorber
Traditional screw balance wheel with gold weight screws
Pallet fork and escapement wheel made of solid gold
Functions
Perpetual calendar
Centre-hand month indicator, 12 hour indices = 12 months
Hours and minutes
Offset seconds dial with hacking seconds function at 6 o’clock
Power reserve indicator at 9 o’clock
Leap year indicator and adjustment push-button
Double Pull Crown mechanism
Strap
Hand-stitched crocodile leather strap
18-carat solid 5N red gold folding clasp with Moser logo

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Press release 
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CONTACT
Nathalie Cobos, T +41 76 319 03 09, press@h-moser.com
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H. MOSER & CIE.
MOSER SCHAFFHAUSEN AG
Rundbuckstrasse 10
CH-8212 Neuhausen am Rheinfall
Switzerland
TEL.          +41 52 674 0050
FAX          +41 52 674 0055
E-MAIL      info@h-moser.com
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CORUM – Bubbliamonds

















CORUM Heritage Bubbliamonds High Jewellery Skeleton
Limited Edition NEW


Pre-Baselworld 2016

Bubble Dazzle for the New Year

Corum celebrates the triumphant revival of the landmark Bubble wristwatch with the Bubble High Jewellery Skeleton, a trio of wristwatches with open- worked, ultra-thin movements – each a one-of-a-kind creation set with exquisite gemstone: rubies, blue sapphires and black sapphires.

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The legendary Bubble is back with a burst of precious colors! Corum has created three unique pieces to mark the beginning of 2016, an especially effervescent year. With the acclaimed reintroduction of the Bubble the year before, 2016 is the time to reveal in the rebirth of an icon.
When it was first introduced in the year 2000, the Bubble was a phenomenon, a watch so successful it became emblematic of the era. Last year it was remade, preserving the same iconic form, with two exclusive limited editions. Now the Bubble is about to become even more exceptional, with three one-off editions paved with dazzling precious stones.

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Even in the rarefied world of haute joaillerie timepieces, the Bubble High Jewellery Skeleton is singularly rare. Only three will be made, with each a singular creation distinguished by baguette-cut diamonds and gemstone hour markers, all set by hand, a task that requires hundreds of hours.

Corum Bubble Dazzle for the New Year

The imposing white gold watchcase provides an ample canvas to which the master gem-setter applies his skills. Each watch is set with 131 brilliant-cut diamonds on the dial, and a further 42 on the bezel, totaling a stunning 5.7 carats of diamonds. What makes each timepiece utterly irreplaceable are the 12 baguette-cut gems that form the hour markers, being either rubies, blue sapphires or black sapphires.

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Past the dazzling gemstones on the dial, the CO 055 calibre is showcased under the monumental sapphire crystal, tall enough it serves as a loupe to magnify the delicate details of the movement. Positioned slightly off-center in keeping with the quirky spirit of the Bubble, the movement has been reduced to its bare essentials, with the bridges and base plate skeletonized by hand.

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What remains of the movement is then decorated with a floral motif, save for the barrel that is open-worked to form the Corum key logo. Executed entirely by hand, the engraving differs ever so slightly between movements, further enhancing the unique nature of each watch.

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Each Bubble High Jewellery Skeleton is fitted to an alligator hide strap finished in the same shade as the gemstone hour markers, and paired with a white gold pin buckle.

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Technical Specifications

Watch Name: 47 Heritage Bubbliamonds High Jewellery Skeleton

Reference:  L055/02979  White Gold - RUBIES Limited Edition UNIQUE PIECE
Reference:  L055/02978  White Gold - BLACK SAPHIRES Limited Edition UNIQUE PIECE
Reference:  L055/02980  White Gold - BLUE SAPHIRES Limited Edition UNIQUE PIECE

MOVEMENT
Skeleton Movement     
Calibr number: CO 055
Winding: Hand-wound
Functions: 
Hour & Minute
Power reserve: 40 hours
Frequency: 3 Hz, 21'600 vph
Movement finishes:
CORUM Diamond Set decoration
DIAL
White Gold Skeleton
Diamond Set decoration   
131  DIAMONDS 2.25 Ct
  • 12  Rubies3.60 Ct
  • 12  Blue sapphires3.60 Ct
  • 12  Black sapphires3.60 Ct
Material: White gold
Hands: Black coated
CASE
Material:  White Gold round case  
Diamond Set with sapphire case back
Crystal:  Domed sapphire crystal with antireflective treatment

PAVED BEZEL WITH 42  DIAMONDS3.45 Ct
Back:  Screwed in open back cover in
white gold with glare proof sapphire
Water-resistant: 50 M / 5 ATM
Diameter: 47 mm
Height: 16.76 mm
BRACELET
Material: Leather alligator with rubber lining strap
Strap width: 24 mm / 20 mm
Buckle: White gold tongue buckle

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Press release
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Montres CORUM Sàrl
Rue du Petit-Château 1
Case postale 374 - CH-2301 La Chaux-de-Fonds
Switzerland
Tél. +41 (0) 32 967 06 70 
Fax +41 (0) 32 967 06 00  press@corum.ch
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www.Corum.ch

Thursday, January 14, 2016

ORIS – Bronze Diver Carl Brashear Limited Edition
















ORIS Divers Sixty-Five Bronze Diver Carl Brashear Limited Edition NEW

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A man of honour
Oris commemorates the life of
Carl Brashear

Oris is extremely honoured to introduce its first bronze watch remembering the extraordinary life of Carl Brashear, the U.S. Navy’s first African American master diver.

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The Oris Carl Brashear Limited Edition is based on Oris’s hugely successful Divers Sixty-Five and celebrates a man who conquered not only challenges of race, but also of disability.  

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Brashear joined the Navy in 1948 as a 17-year-old, and despite facing discrimination on account of his race he graduated from the Navy’s diving programme in 1954. In 1966, he lost the lower part of his left leg in an accident during a mission to salvage a hydrogen bomb.

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After an exhausting period of rehabilitation, he became the U.S. Navy’s first amputee diver in 1968, and then qualified as a Master Diver in 1970, the first African American to do so.

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Carl Brasher graduated from the U.S. Navy Diving & Salvage School in 1954
At that time diving helmets were made of bronze

After a distinguished career in the U.S. Navy that lasted more than 30 years, Brashear retired in 1979. He died in 2006 aged 75. His extraordinary story was the inspiration for the 2000 film Men of Honour, in which Brashear was portrayed by Oscar-winning actor Cuba Gooding Jr.

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The watch marking Brashear’s life and character is the first Oris watch to be made in bronze, a naturally aging material used in deep-sea diving helmets of the 1950s. It takes its aesthetic from the Oris Divers Sixty-Five, but at 42mm in diameter.

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The new Oris Carl Brashear Limited Edition commemorates Carl Brashear’s legendary achievements.

Bronze is initially bright and shiny, and then darkens as its copper content reacts with carbon dioxide and moisture. This means each of the limited run of 2,000 pieces will develop a unique patina over time – and a unique relationship with their owner.

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The unidirectional rotating bezel is also made of bronze, with a raised minute scale for tracking dive times, a look that recalls a number of diver’s watches in the Oris archive.

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The stainless steel case back of the Oris Carl Brashear Limited Edition shows Brashear’s diver helmet with his claim It’s not a sin to get knocked down, it’s a sin to stay down.

The stainless steel case back shows Brashear’s helmet and his very personal claim. Under the watch’s dark blue dial is an automatic mechanical movement, and the watch is water-resistant to 100 metres.

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Product Features

Model: Oris Divers Bronze Diver Carl Brashear Limited Edition  to 2,000 pieces

Reference No. 733 7720 3185 LS   Dark brown leather strap

Movement
Automatic movement Oris Cal. 733 (based on Sellita SW 200-1)
With date window at 6 o’clock
Dimensions:    Ø 25.60 mm, 11 1/2’’’
Functions 
Centre hands for hours, minutes and seconds, date window,
Instantaneous date, date corrector, fine timing device and stop-second
Winding:    Automatic winding, bi-directionally rotating red rotor
Power-Reserve:    38 hrs
Vibrations:    28’800 A/h, 4 Hz
Jewels:    26
Case
Material:    Multi-piece bronze case and screw-in bronze crown
Size:   Ø 42.00 mm
Top Glass:     Sapphire, domed on both sides, anti-reflective coating inside
Case Back:    Stainless steel, screwed, special engravings and printings
Operating Devices:    Stainless steel screw-in security crown
Water Resistance:    10 bar (100 m)
Interhorn Width:    24 mm
Diver’s unidirectional revolving bronze top ring with 60-minute timer.
Zero marker filled with Super-LumiNova®
Screw-in case back with special illustration and engraved limitation number
Crystal
Bubble-curved sapphire crystal domed on both sides and with anti-reflective coating inside
Dial
Dark blue, curved dial with applied rose gold plated indices, filled with Super-LumiNova®.
Hour, minute and second hands rose gold plated and filled with Super-LumiNova®
Strap/Bracelet
Dark brown leather strap with bronze pin buckleExtras
Special box, certificate, limited to 2000 

Price
Swiss Retail Price: CHF 2,600.00
Edition
Limited edition 2000 pieces

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Press Release
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www.carlbrashear.org 
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