Saturday, January 16, 2016

FERDINAND BERTHOUD – The contribution made to horology




























FERDINAND BERTHOUD – The contribution made to horology

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The contribution made by Ferdinand Berthoud
to horology

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His initial successes as a researcher and the awarding of the title of master by order of the King

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Obliged to work as a watchmaker’s companion for the masters of the Parisian guild, due to not having served his apprenticeship with one of them, the young Berthoud managed to overcome this hurdle by drawing attention to “his considerable application in perfecting the art of watchmaking”. He seized the opportunity of publishing his research at the French Royal Academy of Science by submitting the description of a new construction in a sealed envelope.

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The academics’ approval on April 26th 1752 of a longcase equation clock, considered highly ingenious, marked the beginning of his career as a researcher and at the same time, enabled him to stake his claim of official integration within the watchmaker community. On December 4th 1753, the King ordered that he be named a maître (master), a title that allowed him to open a workshop in the Rue de Harlay, near Place Dauphine.

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In 1754, the master once again submitted his inventions to the Academy. One was his first marine clock project. The others, examined and approved by the academics, were also equation systems: “a longcase equation clock with concentric seconds marking the months and days of the month, leap years, and which runs for 13 months without being wound”; as well as a watch with seconds and equation, marking the months and days.

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Even prior to being named a master, Ferdinand Berthoud indicated the direction he wanted his career to take – namely to devote himself to research and transmit his know-how through publications and teaching. This double vocation enabled him to rapidly make a name for himself in the scientific world of his time.

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Several articles in the Encyclopaedia published by Diderot were entrusted to him, and most particularly the article entitled “Equation”. In 1759, he published a successful treatise on popularization entitled, L’Art de conduire et de régler les pendules et les montres. A l’usage de ceux qui n’ont aucune connaissance d’horlogerie (The art of operating and adjusting clocks and watches.

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To be used by those with no knowledge of watchmaking). In 1763, his extensive treatise - L’Essai sur l’horlogerie ; dans lequel on traite de cet Art relativement à l’usage civil, à l’Astronomie et à la Navigation (An Essay on Horology; in which we deal with this Art in relation to its civil application, to Astronomy and to Navigation) was also well received.

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Affirmation of his vocation and official recognition of his work

1763 marked a turning point in Berthoud’s career, which was now bound up with the development of maritime navigation. The Academy of Science once again both witnessed and supported the horologist’s request for the opening of two reports, respectively deposited in 1760 and 1761. These described the N°1 maritime clock.

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Convinced by his skill, the academics obtained permission from the Minister of the Navy to send him to London to examine the Harrison marine clock. This opportunity demonstrated his worth and resulted in his nomination as a foreign member of the Royal Society on February 16th 1764.

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On August 29th of that year, Ferdinand Berthoud once again made a submission concerning the “construction of a marine watch…” This was the last time, as Berthoud was now sure of where he was going with his research and of having the option of seeking official support.

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Berthoud marine clock2, with motor spring and double pendulum wheel, 1763.

His projects were the subject of detailed requests punctuating his activities and in this context, he suggested the construction of two marine watches on May 7th 1766.
After successful experimentation with the N° 6 and 8 which are housed at the Musée des arts et métiers (Museum of Arts and Crafts), Ferdinand Berthoud was awarded a certificate entitled Brevet d’horloger Méchanicien du Roi et de la Marine ayant l’inspection de la construction des Horloges marines (Watchmaker and Mechanic to the King and Navy with construction inspection of marine clocks) created especially for him on April 1st 1770.

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FERDINAND BERTHOUD – Horloge de marine № 6 - 1777

From this time onwards, he abandoned the management of his workshop-boutique in favour of his research. He confirmed in 1792 that: “It is mainly since 1770 that I have been completely focused on this and I have in a way left the field of public work”.

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A tenacious investigator, a skilled and daring builder, and an inventor anxious to share his knowledge, Ferdinand Berthoud not only took part in improving horology; he also fostered the use of precision clocks in the sciences of his time, thus contributing to their progress.

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The title, privileges, and forms of recognition which punctuated his career, between the reign of Louis XV and the First Empire, as well as the tributes and studies which marked his critical fortune until the present day, reflect the importance of his position in the long quest for precision, from Huyghens’ discoveries right up to Guillaume.

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 1727-1807
Horologist-mechanic by appointment to the King and the Navy
1727                              Ferdinand Berthoud is born on March 18 to a distinguished family of clockmakers at Plancemont in the Val-de-Travers, now in Switzerland’s canton of Neuchâtel.
1745                              At the age of 18, Ferdinand Berthoud settles in Paris to study clockmaking.
1753                              A decree of King Louis XV’s council awards the 26-year-old Ferdinand Berthoud the title of Master Clockmaker.
1755                              Ferdinand Berthoud writes a number of reference papers for the Encyclopédie méthodique edited by Diderot (1713-1784) and Alembert (1717-1783).
1763                              Publication of a two-volume horological treatise, Essai sur l’horlogerie
1764                             Ferdinand Berthoud is elected to the Royal Society in London as an “associate overseas member” thanks to his masterpieces and his publications about watchmaking
1768                             The marine chronometers N° 6 and N° 8 were proved to be successful onboard the corvette “L’Isis” during a 18-month journey from Rochefort to Santo Domingo. The marine chronometer N°8 alloed to determine the real position on the map of the boat and calculate the longitude within half a degree thanks to astronomical observations.
1770                              After successful sea trials of the marine chronometers N° 6 and N° 8, Ferdinand Berthoud is commissioned as Horologist-mechanic to the King and the Navy, and receives a royal command for 20 marine chronometers for the French admiralty’s numerous charting expeditions and marine surveys of the late 18th century.
1802                             Ferdinand Berthoud publishes a major work: Histoire de la mesure du temps par les horloges, a history of time measurement by clocks that demonstrates his immense knowledge of horological mechanics.
1804                             On July 17, Napoleon I makes Ferdinand Berthoud a Knight of the Legion of Honour as a member of the Institut de France. 
1807                             Ferdinand Berthoud publishes his last work, Supplément au Traité des montres à Longitudes
                                      On June 20, 1807, Ferdinand Berthoud dies at the age of 80 in Groslay (France)
                                      His nephews, Pierre-Louis Berthoud (1754-1813) and Charles-Auguste Berthoud (1798-1876) successfully carry on the work of their uncle to earn renown as chronometer-makers. 

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Chronométrie FERDINAND BERTHOUD SA
Rue des Moulins 20
Case postale 128
2114 Fleurier, Val-de-Travers (NE)
Switzerland
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Friday, January 15, 2016

H. MOSER & CIE. – ENDEAVOUR Perpetual Calendar HERITAGE Edition

H. MOSER & CIE.ENDEAVOUR Perpetual Calendar HERITAGE 5N Red Gold White Enamel Limited Edition NEW

LINKING TRADITION AND MODERNITY: THE PERPETUAL CALENDAR HERITAGELIMITED EDITION FROM H. MOSER & CIE.

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Neuhausen am Rheinfall, January 15 th , 2016
 
Marking the 10 th anniversary of its perpetual calendar, H. Moser & Cie. pays tribute to exceptional artisanwatchmaking. This exceptional timepiece is an exercise in style linking tradition and modernity, two elementswhich coexist in all creations by H. Moser & Cie. The Perpetual Calendar Heritage Limited Edition is a salute towatchmaking past and present. It is the distillation of H. Moser & Cie's 187 years of watchmaking expertise.


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The inspiration behind the Perpetual Calendar Heritage Limited Edition came from an H. Moser pocket watch datingfrom the late 19 th century in the H. Moser & Cie. collection. The case on this model, made from a striking blue,engraved enamel and studded with diamonds, inspired the watchmakers at the Schaffhausen-based Manufacture toreinterpret this watch, calling on the best craftsmen to work on the case. Featuring "cloisonné" enamel on a casewith two covers, guilloché, engraving and setting techniques as well as "Grand Feu" enamel on the dial, inassociation with a modern in-house, hand-wound calibre made from solid gold: the Perpetual Calendar Heritage Limited Edition is the synthesis of the greatest arts in watchmaking craftsmanship.

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It also symbolises the linkbetween the past and the present for H. Moser & Cie., founded in 1828, through a reinterpretation of an historicwatch which retains its original features, now in a larger dimension and fitted with a strap. The red gold case withtwo covers has therefore been enlarged and features extremely fine lugs, while respecting its original design. Oneither side of the watch is a cover with hand-engraved, guilloché decoration, extending up the side of the case.These have then been enamelled, demonstrating the highest level of craftsmanship, and set with diamonds on thedial side. Paired with a crocodile leather strap, this beautifully rounded case is as smooth as a pebble. In reference tothe historic timepiece, H. Moser & Cie. fitted its Perpetual Calendar Heritage Limited Edition with a notched crownequipped with the Double Pull Crown system and fitted with a push-button mechanism for opening the upper casecover.

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The dial, also enamelled, is decorated with Roman numerals. The scales of the track showing minutes and smallseconds are a further reference to tradition, as is the dovetail shape of the two main hands, which are flame-blued, as well as those for the power reserve and small seconds.

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The third central hand, which is black, shows the monthsof the year using the twelve indices, like the famous Endeavour Perpetual Calendar. A large window at 3 o'clock shows the date, displayed using two discs.

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The beating heart of this exceptional timepiece is the high-performance HMC 341 calibre. Made from 18-carat solidgold, this movement is set with two diamond end-stones. It guarantees the Perpetual Calendar Heritage Limited Edition a minimum 7-day power reserve, thanks to its double barrel.

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Representing the culmination of nearly 200 years of history, the in-house HMC 341 calibre can be adjusted forwards or backwards at any time of day via thecrown. This marvel of haute horlogerie anchors the Perpetual Calendar Heritage Limited Edition firmly in thepresent, making it a timepiece which is unmistakably of its time.

H. MOSER & CIE. – HERITAGE Pocket watch from Limited Edition HMC Collection, date: late 19 th century

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H. MOSER & CIE. – HERITAGE Pocket watch from Limited Edition HMC Collection, date: late 19 th century

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TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS 

ENDEAVOUR Perpetual Calendar HERITAGE Limited Edition

Reference: 8341-0400,  
5N red gold model, pocket watch-type case, white enamel dial, crocodile leather strap

Case
Pocket watch-type case in 5N red gold
Diamond-set (28 diamonds, 0.31 carat) and enamelled
Diameter: 46.0 mm, height: 13.6 mm
Sapphire crystal
Dial
White "Grand Feu" enamel dial
Hand-painted Roman numerals
Dovetail-shaped blued hands
Month indicated with a small arrow-shaped centre hand
Offset small seconds
Large date display at 3 o’clock
Movement
Mechanical hand-wound in-house calibre HMC 341
Diameter 34.0 mm or 15 lignes, height 5.8 mm
Frequency: 18,000 vibrations per hour
28 jewels and screwed gold mounts
Power reserve: minimum 7-day with a double barrel
Solid 18-carat gold plate and bridges with a matte finish, hand chamfering and hand-engraved hallmark
True bevel wheels and Moser tooth system for all wheels and pinions
Interchangeable Moser escapement
Original Straumann Double Hairspring®
2 genuine, functional diamond end-stones in the incabloc shock-absorber
Traditional screw balance wheel with gold weight screws
Pallet fork and escapement wheel made of solid gold
Functions
Perpetual calendar
Centre-hand month indicator, 12 hour indices = 12 months
Hours and minutes
Offset seconds dial with hacking seconds function at 6 o’clock
Power reserve indicator at 9 o’clock
Leap year indicator and adjustment push-button
Double Pull Crown mechanism
Strap
Hand-stitched crocodile leather strap
18-carat solid 5N red gold folding clasp with Moser logo

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Press release 
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CONTACT
Nathalie Cobos, T +41 76 319 03 09, press@h-moser.com
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H. MOSER & CIE.
MOSER SCHAFFHAUSEN AG
Rundbuckstrasse 10
CH-8212 Neuhausen am Rheinfall
Switzerland
TEL.          +41 52 674 0050
FAX          +41 52 674 0055
E-MAIL      info@h-moser.com
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