Friday, November 6, 2015

MB&F – LEGACY MACHINE Perpetual Limited Edition


MB&FLEGACY MACHINE Perpetual Limited Edition NEW
LEGACY MACHINE Perpetual
Reinventing the perpetual calendar

Beginning with a blank sheet of paper, MB&F and independent Irish watchmaker Stephen McDonnell have completely reinvented that most traditional of horological complications: the perpetual calendar. The result is Legacy Machine Perpetual, featuring a visually stunning in-house movement – developed from the ground up to eliminate the drawbacks of conventional perpetual calendars.

The fact that the new complication looks sensational and can be fully appreciated dial-side is just one of the many benefits offered by the new movement, controlled by a mechanical processor (patent pending).
 
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LM Perpetual features a fully integrated 581-component calibre − no module, no base movement − with a revolutionary new system for calculating the number of days in each month. And it holistically reinterprets the aesthetics of the perpetual calendar by placing the full complication on dial-free display underneath a spectacular suspended balance.

The perpetual calendar is one of the great traditional complications, calculating the apparently random complexity of the varying numbers of days in each month − including the 29 days in February during leap years. But traditional perpetual calendars do have a few drawbacks: dates can skip; they are relatively easy to damage if adjusted while the date is changing; and the complications are usually compromises of modules powered by base movements.

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The fully integrated, purpose-built movement of Legacy Machine Perpetual has been designed from scratch for trouble-free use: no more skipping dates or jamming gears, and the adjuster pushers automatically deactivate when the calendar changes, so no problems there either!

Traditional perpetual calendar mechanisms use a 31-day month as the default and basically "delete" superfluous dates for the months with fewer days – by fast-forwarding through the redundant dates during changeover. A traditional perpetual calendar changing from February 28 to March 1 scrolls quickly through the 29th, 30th and 31st to arrive at the 1st.

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LM Perpetual turns the traditional perpetual calendar system on its head by using a “mechanical processor” instead of the conventional space-consuming grand levier (big lever) system architecture. The mechanical processor utilises a default 28-day month and adds extra days as required. This means that each month always has the exact number of days required; there is no fast-forwarding or skipping redundant days. And while the leap year can only be set on traditional perpetual calendars by scrolling through up to 47 months, LM Perpetual has a dedicated quickset pusher to adjust the year.

With its open dial revealing the full complication and suspended balance, it's the harmonious mechanical beauty of LM Perpetual that really steals the show. And in an interesting technical twist, that eye-catching balance hovering on high is connected to the escapement on the back of the movement by what is likely to be the world's longest balance staff.

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Using an innovative system developed especially for Legacy Machine Perpetual, the subdials appear to "float" above the movement with no visible attachments. The skeletonised subdials rest on hidden studs, which is technically impossible with traditional perpetual calendar mechanisms because they would block the movement of the grand levier.

Taking a clockwise tour of the dial, at 12 o'clock we see the hours and minutes nestled between the elegant arches of the balance; day of the week at 3 o'clock, power reserve indicator at 4 o'clock, month at 6 o'clock, retrograde leap year indicator at 7 o'clock, and date at 9 o'clock. 

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LM Perpetual: complexity simplified with integrity and beauty.

Legacy Machine Perpetual launches with a limited edition of 25 pieces in 18K red gold and 25 pieces in platinum 950.


Legacy Machine Perpetual in detail

Inspiration and realisation

The Legacy Machine collection was conceived when MB&F owner and creative director Maximilian Büsser started fantasising. "What would have happened if I had been born in 1867 instead of 1967? In the early 1900s the first wristwatches appear, and I would want to create three-dimensional machines for the wrist, but Grendizers, Star Wars, and fighter jets would not have been around for my inspiration. But I do have pocket watches, the Eiffel Tower, and Jules Verne, so what might my 1900s machine look like? It has to be round and it has to be three-dimensional." The result of this was Legacy Machine No.1, first launched in 2011 – followed later by LM2 and LM101.

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The LM Perpetual project began with a meeting between Maximilian Büsser and Northern Irish watchmaker Stephen McDonnell. McDonnell had been a long-time Friend of the brand and played an instrumental role in the realisation of MB&F's very first timepiece, Horological Machine No.1.

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As Büsser was thinking of developing a perpetual calendar for the fourth watch in the Legacy Machine collection, McDonnell replied that he had an idea for a perpetual calendar that addresses many of the drawbacks associated with conventional examples.

Three years and a great many sleepless nights later, Legacy Machine Perpetual was born.

Conventional perpetual calendars

Conventional perpetual calendars are generally modules comprising the complication, which is fitted on top of an existing movement. The calendar indications are synchronised by a long lever (in French: grand levier) running across the top of the complication and passing through the centre. As the date changes, this long lever transmits information to the appropriate components and mechanisms by moving backwards and forwards.

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The existence of the grand levier means that there can be nothing in the centre of the complication that might impede it – like a suspended balance with its staff running right down through the centre of the movement to an escapement on the back.

This lever also means that perpetual calendars require a full dial, which may have cut-outs or windows, as it is impossible to support subdials with studs because they would block the motion of the big lever mechanism.

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In the traditional grand levier system, perpetual calendars assume that, by default, all months have 31 days. At the end of months with less than 31 days, the mechanism quickly skips through the superfluous dates before arriving at the 1st of the new month.

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Any manipulation or adjustment of the date during changeover can result in damage to the mechanism, requiring expensive repairs by the manufacturer. The dates can also jump or skip during changeover, negating the whole point of the perpetual calendar in the first place, which is not requiring adjustment for years. Or decades.

"I call perpetual calendars boomerang watches because they come back for repair so often,” says Maximilian Büsser. “The mechanisms jam, block, break, or jump days when they shouldn't."
 
Mechanical processor

Legacy Machine Perpetual uses a patent-pending “mechanical processor” consisting of a series of superimposed disks. This revolutionary processor takes the default number of days in the month at 28 – because, logically, all months have at least 28 days – and then adds the extra days as required by each individual month. This ensures that each month has exactly the right number of days. There is no "skipping over" redundant days, so there is no possibility of the date jumping incorrectly.



Using a planetary cam, the mechanical processor also enables quicksetting of the year so that it displays correctly in the four-year leap year cycle, whereas traditional perpetual calendar mechanisms require the user to scroll through up to 47 months to arrive at the right month and year.

The mechanical processor also enables an inbuilt safety feature that disconnects the quickset pushers during the date changeover, eliminating any risk of damage while the date is changing.
 
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While the conception and development of this mechanical processor-controlled perpetual calendar complication is a noteworthy achievement in itself, Stephen McDonnell went even further by managing to place all 581 components of the movement in virtually the same-sized case as LM1.

Opening up a new world of perpetual calendar aesthetics

Doing away with the calendar’s big lever has allowed for completely new aesthetics not possible when conventional systems are in use. MB&F’s mechanical processor enables the centre of the complication to be used, thereby saving space and allowing design freedom as the full dial is no longer necessary.

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Legacy Machine Perpetual takes advantage of its fully integrated movement to place the perpetual calendar mechanism on top of the movement main plate so that it can be appreciated from above. Legibility is often an issue with perpetual calendars due to the sheer number of indications, and LM Perpetual addresses this by using skeletonised subdials (except for the time indication) that appear to float above the complication with no apparent support from below.

Balance above, escapement below

In yet another innovation, Legacy Machine Perpetual uses what is likely to be the world's longest balance wheel pinion to connect that elegantly suspended balance, hovering above the top of the movement, to the escapement on the back of the movement. Ensuring the practicality and reliability of this approach was essential before any other development work began.

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While the view through the display back is animated by the escapement, it's the spectacular hand-finishing of the bridges and plates that really captivates the eye.

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TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS

Model: LM Perpetual

LEGACY MACHINE Perpetual Limited launch editions of 25 pieces in 18K Red Gold and 25 pieces in Platinum 950.

Engine:
Fully integrated perpetual calendar developed for MB&F by Stephen McDonnell,
featuring dial-side complication and mechanical processor system architecture with inbuilt safety mechanism.
Manual winding with double mainspring barrels.
Bespoke 14mm balance wheel with traditional regulating screws visible on top of the movement.
Superlative hand finishing throughout respecting 19 th century style;
internal bevel angles highlighting hand craft; polished bevels; Geneva waves; hand-made engravings.
Power reserve: 72 hours
Balance frequency: 18,000bph / 2.5Hz
Number of components: 581
Number of jewels: 41

Functions/indications:
Hours, minutes, day, date, month,
retrograde leap year and power reserve indicators.
Case:
Material: launch editions in 18K 5N+ Red Gold or Platinum 950
Dimensions: 44 mm x 17.5 mm
Number of components: 69 components
Water resistance: 30 m / 90' / 3 atm.
Sapphire crystals:
Sapphire crystals on top and display back treated with anti-reflective coating on both faces.
Strap & Buckle:
Black or dark brown hand-stitched alligator strap with gold / platinum folding buckle matching case material.

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www.MBandF.com

Thursday, November 5, 2015

Bell & Ross – VINTAGE BR GT Automatic














Bell & Ross VINTAGE BR GT Automatic

PAYING HOMAGE TO THE STYLE OF THE RACING 
DRIVERS OF THE SEVENTIES

Since its foundation, Bell & Ross has taken aviation – more specifically, aircraft instrumentation – as one of its main sources of inspiration. As ever, it is a question of reinventing historical heritage and tradition.

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Bell & Ross watches take their rigorous and exacting standards of legibility, functionality, precision and reliability from the first pillar of the design brief: military specifications. The second pillar is formed by the stylistic and societal codes that are carefully respected and reinterpreted to develop models, which are original and professional, while remaining faithful to their source of inspiration.

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At the heart of the Vintage collection, the new line of BR GT watches takes time away from the world of aviation to explore a new dimension of the passion for navigation, so dear to the brand, by lending a new contemporary interpretation to the chronographs worn by racing drivers of the 1970s, an extraordinary era of creativity, innovation and freedom. Bell & Ross has, therefore, applied this relationship between man and machine to accurately and carefully designed instruments dedicated to calculating time and speed.

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TWO RACING DRIVER WATCHES WITH A TIMELESS ALLURE

From the first glance, the two Vintage BR GT models reveal the spirit of 1970s racing driver watches. In reference to the technical criteria of the era, these highly balanced instruments – with a resolutely neo-retro look– are housed in a 42-mm case with an understated, modern design in steel with satin finishes.

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Like the BR01, the brand’s iconic watch and emblematic model inspired by aircraft instrumentation, the graphic design of the Vintage BR GT dial hints at the rev counters and dashboard instruments found in classic 1970s cars. This functional reference is emphasized by the contrast of the two bold colours that brighten the dials. The pitch black dial provides a stark contrast to the steel colour of the auxiliary counters and appliqué indices. The facetted, photo-luminescent, metallic hands (for hours and minutes) also play on this same contrast, offering perfect legibility. The counters highlight exceptional finishes thanks to their snailed guilloché work realised in the great Swiss watchmaking tradition.

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Like the timepieces of the era, the two Vintage BR GT watches feature an ultra-curved high-dome sapphire crystal with two layers of anti-reflective coating, for enhanced resistance and excellent legibility. The spirit of the Seventies is further reinforced by the elegant satin-finished steel bezel, which provides a striking touch. With 60-minute gradations on the three-hand version, this elegant bezel indicates a tachymeter scale on the chronograph version, prioritising the measurement of short time periods and enabling performance and speed to be read immediately.

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Powered by two Swiss self-winding mechanical movements, renowned for their reliability and endurance, the
Vintage BR GT watches are water-resistant to 100 metres. Racing driver watches with a timeless design, these two models are paired with a black, micro-perforated strap made from Alcantara®; with a special suede-like touch, that was used in car upholstery in the 1970s.

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Lined with stitched leather and fitted with a signed, satin-finished steel folding buckle, the straps on the Vintage BR GT watches combine solidity with comfort and flexibility for an ultra-stylish look. Two watches designed with a nostalgic glance back to the Seventies, for gentlemen drivers who like to live life in the fast lane.

THE QUINTESSENCE OF SPORT-CHIC VINTAGE

Both sporty and elegant, Vintage BR GT watches are evocative of an era that inspires modern men in search of authenticity: the era of the cool, rather wacky racing drivers of the Seventies. As in this decade, Bell & Ross Vintage BR GT watches are designed to be worn in all circumstances, with a three-piece suit during the week or with jeans at the weekend; and, of course, behind the wheel of fine cars…

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Technical Specifications

Model: VINTAGE 

BR 123 GT Automatic 42 mm

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BR 126 GT Automatic Chronograph 42 mm

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Movement
Bell & Ross Automatic mechanical movement:
BR 123 GT: automatic mechanical. Calibre BR-CAL.305
BR 126 GT: automatic mechanical. Calibre BR-CAL.301

Functions
BR 123 GT:  hours, minutes, small seconds at 6 o'clock. Date.
BR 126 GT:  hours, minutes, small seconds at 3 o’clock. Date.
Chronograph: 
30-min timer at 9 o’clock.
Central chronograph seconds.
Tachymeter scale on the bezel.
Case
42 mm diameter
Satin-finished steel.
Graduated fixed bezel.
Dial
Black.
Metal appliqué numerals and indices.
Minute track on metal surround.
Metal skeleton Superluminova ® -filled hour and minute hands.
Crystal:
Ultra-curved high-dome sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating. 
Water-resistance: 100 m
Strap
Black Alcantara ® or satin-finished steel.
Buckle:
Folding. Satin-finished steel.

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www.facebook.com - Bell Ross
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www.Bell&Ross.com

Wednesday, November 4, 2015

MIDO – MULTIFORT Chronograph Caliber 60















MIDOMULTIFORT Chronograph Caliber 60


A remarkable design for lovers of high-speed sports

Designed for sporting performance, the new Multifort Chronograph Caliber 60 unites technical innovation and precision. Its sandblasted black PVD-treated steel case houses the Caliber 60, a next-generation automatic chronograph movement that guarantees up to 60 hours of power reserve. Lovers of high-speed sports can count on the tachymeter incorporated into the bezel – a first for the Multifort collection. The black dial, meanwhile, offers perfect readability and is decorated with vertical Geneva stripes that evoke the suspension cables of the Sydney Harbour Bridge. Its remarkable design and black and red colours define the Multifort Chronograph Caliber 60 as a model steeped in character and shaped for motor sports.

Launched in 1934, two years after the Sydney Harbour Bridge was completed, the Multifort collection shares the structure’s remarkable qualities – a perfect blend of functionality and beauty. A truth that has stood the test of time, as Mido celebrated the 80th anniversary of Multifort production in 2014, making this emblematic collection one of the longest-produced series in the history of Swiss watchmaking.

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With its robust yet sporty look, remarkable design and unswerving precision, the new Multifort Chronograph Caliber 60 is a spirited timepiece full of character. It is perfectly suited to all sports lovers, and motor sports enthusiasts in particular. The latter can depend on both the tachymeter incorporated into the bezel – a first in the Multifort collection – and the Caliber 60, an automatic chronograph featuring the latest in watchmaking innovation and guaranteeing up to 60 hours of power reserve. It is enough to win over even the most seasoned sports fans! The Multifort Chronograph Caliber 60 is fitted with a robust 44 mm-diameter case in black PVD-treated steel. Its sandblasted finish complements the matt black bezel perfectly. The central seconds hand and the snailed counter at 3 o’clock are dedicated to the chronograph function, as indicated by the colour red. The snailed counter at 9 o’clock indicates the seconds, while the date appears in an aperture at 6 o’clock. The latter can be easily changed thanks to a quick corrector located on the side of the case at 10 o’clock.

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The combination of red and black gives the Multifort Chronograph Caliber 60 a resolutely sporty look, which is further reinforced by the black dial decorated with vertical Geneva stripes evoking the suspension cables of the Sydney Harbour Bridge. The touches of white Super-LumiNova® on the indexes and hours and minutes hands guarantee perfect readability, both underwater and at night. Water-resistant up to a pressure of 10 bars (100 m/330 ft), the Multifort Chronograph Caliber 60 is protected by a sapphire crystal treated with anti reflective coating on both sides. It is also equipped with a transparent case back, enabling the wearer to admire its finely decorated automatic chronograph movement, and its oscillating weight adorned with Geneva stripes and the Mido logo.

The Multifort Chronograph Caliber 60 comes with a stylish strap in matt black leather with red stitching, which is integrated into the case. It is equipped with a new, highly ergonomic Mido folding clasp featuring two safety pushers that secure its opening.

Two other versions of this model are also available.

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TECHNICAL INFORMATION

Ref: M025.627.36.061.00 MULTIFORT Chronograph 44mm

Movement   
Automatic chronograph Mido Caliber 60 (ETA A05H31 base), 13¼’’’
Diameter: 30.00 mm, height: 7.90 mm
27 jewels, 28,800 A/H
NIVACHOC A3 shock-absorber
ANACHRON-ETASTABLE balance-spring
NIVAFLEX NM mainspring
Finely decorated elaborate movement with blued screws,
decorated oscillating weight with Geneva stripes and engraved Mido logo
Adjusted on 3 different positions for a high accuracy
Up to 60 hours of power reserve
Functions  
HMS + Chrono + Date
Time: hour and minute hands.
Small second indicator at 9 o’clock.
Chrono: 
60 second counter from centre,
30 minute counter at 3 o’clock.
Date at 6 o’clock. 
Case   
Sandblasted stainless steel 316L with black PVD treatment, Ø44 mm,
3 pieces, sapphire crystal with an anti-reflecting treatment on both sides,
screwed crown and case back, rapid date corrector at 10 o’clock,
transparent case back to see the finely decorated movement, engraved serial number.
Water-resistant up to a pressure of 10 bar (100 m / 330 ft).
Dial   
Black, vertical Geneva stripes, snailed counters,
with white Super-LumiNova®, date at 6 o’clock.
Hands    
Satin-finished and polished skeleton hour and minute hands,
with white Super-LumiNova® for easy readability at night, red chronograph hands 
Strap  
Matt black genuine calf leather strap, perforated, red stitching,
highly ergonomic Mido folding clasp (stainless steel with black PVD treatment) featuring two safety pushers to secure its opening.

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press.mido.ch 
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www.Mido.ch

Tuesday, November 3, 2015

BVLGARI – Daniel Roth PAPILLON Heure Sautante
















BVLGARI Daniel Roth PAPILLON Heure Sautante NEW

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PAPILLON HEURE SAUTANTE: UNIQUE IN HAUTE HORLOGERIE

The flight of a new butterfly is liable to create a major stir in the watchmaking universe. In any event, their flutterings are bound to stir the hearts of all informed devotees of horological complications, who will be thrilled by the Bulgari Papillon Heure Sautante model that reinterprets the ingenious patented minutes indication system.

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This original mechanism, a metaphor inspired by the flight of the butterfly, is unique in the world of Haute Horlogerie and bears two independent, retractable, diamond-shaped hands on a supporting disc. Each one alternately sweeps over a graduated minutes scale spread over a 180-degree half circle.

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The minutes are successively indicated by each of the two hands. The first is positioned on the segment and thus signals the progression of the minutes, while the second one remains ‘off-duty’ in retracted position and thus invisible throughout the rotation of the disc bearing them.





















When the first hand reaches the 55th minute on the display segment, the other hand progressively completes a quarter turn to move into a position parallel to the first one on the 00 minutes marker.

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The first hand then moves into its retracted position for the following 55 minutes.  In the case of the simplest display of time, the Bulgari Papillon Heure Sautante watch displays the jumping hour, indicates the minutes via the “Papillon” device, and shows the seconds by the central hand.

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The entire mechanism is powered by a mechanical self-winding Manufacture movement, Calibre BVL 252, entirely designed and assembled in line with the finest traditions by master watchmakers from Bulgari Manufacture.



















It beats at a frequency of 28,800 vibrations per hour and has a 42-hour power reserve. This movement is decorated with great care and elegance expressed through alternate circular graining and the Côtes de Genève motif.

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A brilliant new demonstration of the contemporary creations from the Maison that have established themselves in the elite circle of complicated watchmaking.

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Technical Specifications

Model: BVLGARI Daniel Roth PAPILLON Heure Sautante 45 mm 18-carat Pink Gold 
- Ref. 102069 BRRP45BGLPAP 

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Model: BVLGARI Daniel Roth PAPILLON Heure Sautante 45 mm 18-carat White Gold 
- Ref. 102338 BRRP45BGLPAP

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Case:  
Dimensions: Ø 45 mm
18-kt pink gold
White gold case with
Transparent case back;
Box-type sapphire crystal;
Collector number engraved on the case back. 
Movement: 
Calibre: BVL252 decorated with Côtes de Genève and chamfering finishing.
Jumping hours and patented double-hand papillon minute system.
Bidirectional mechanical self-winding Manufacture movement
minutes indicated by Papillon device;
jumping hours by disc on ceramic ball bearings;
28,800 vph (4Hz),
42-hour power reserve.
Dial:   
Dark anthracite dial
Papillon” hands in 18ct gold
Functions: Mono-Retro
Jumping Hours,
Retrograde minutes 180° and second (central) 360°
Power reserve: 42 hours 
Gem: 108 gems 
Waterproof: 50 meters
Strap:
Brown alligator strap with 18-ct pink gold ardillon buckle
Black alligator strap with 18-ct white gold ardillon buckle

Year: 2015
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Bulgari.com

Monday, November 2, 2015

RJ-Romain Jerome – DeLorean-DNA Burnout Limited Edition














RJ-Romain Jerome COLLABORATION DeLorean-DNA Burnout Limited Edition NEW


The DeLorean-DNA Burnout: at full speed!

Thirty years ago the iconic DeLorean sports car left a significant trace for generations to come as well as on the road! On this special day of October 21st 2015, RJ-Romain Jerome pays tribute to the DeLorean DMC-12 by unveiling a new timepiece, the Delorean-DNA Burnout.

In order to attain maximum speed and reach the targeted date, the emblematic 80’s car acts as a Time Machine whilst spinning its wheels and hitting the brakes. This process is called a “burnout” and leaves a trace as a result of the fusion between the tire’s rubber and the asphalt.

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The textured dial of the DeLorean-DNA Burnout was made from this exceptional fusion of materials and is housed in a 46 mm steel case. The timepiece also features a brushed steel bezel containing elements from the original bodywork of the DMC sports car and the small seconds counter recalling the car’s dashboard with bright orange indexes.This new model is limited to only 30 pieces.

About DeLorean Motor Company (DMC)

Since its debut in 1981 DeLorean has earned its place in pop-culture iconography. The sport cars’ easily recognizable gull-wing doors, stainless steel body, and rear mounted engine has appeared in movies, video games, and television shows.














The DeLorean Motor Company (DMC), based in Humble, TX, USA, acquired the original company’s name in 1995 and now owns the largest remaining original parts stock from the factory, US stock and original suppliers. DMC assembles services, appraises, restores and sells DeLorean automobiles, parts, accessories and merchandise to customers around the world. DMC custom-assembles cars to order, featuring parts or designs from the original DeLorean automobile, with modern engine and suspension technology. A variety of DeLorean products have been developed through licensing relationships with manufacturers in footwear, apparel, toys, collectibles, gaming and other product categories.

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Technical specifications

| Collection - GENERATIONAL ICONS | Universe COLLABORATION
Model: DeLorean-DNA Burnout Limited Edition 30 pieces

Reference: RJ.M.CH.DE.001.02 

Movement
Caliber RJ001-CH
Mechanical self-winding movement - Chronograph
Frequency: 28,800 v/h
Jewelling: 23 jewels
Power reserve: 42 hours
Functions
Central hours and minutes, small seconds at 9 o’clock
Chronograph: 30-minute counter at 3 o’clock,
12-hour counter at 6 o’clock and central seconds
Case
Ø 46mm
DMC medallion engraved on the case back
Bezel: Brushed stainless steel containing elements from the original bodywork of a DeLorean sports car
Water resistance: 3 atm (30 meters)
Dial
Asphalt effect with orange and white indexes
Rhodiumed and satin-brushed chronograph counters. Small seconds counter recalls the car’s dashboard
Hands: Rhodiumed, satin-brushed and bead-blasted hours and minutes hands with superluminova "blue emission". Rhodiumed chronograph second and counters’ hand inspired by automobile dashboards
Strap
Upholstery black leather with anthracite grey stitching
Buckle: Polished stainless steel with folding claps

Limited edition 30 pieces

Retail price
CHF 14,990.- / EUR 16,950.- / USD 17,500.-

*RJ-Romain Jerome reserves the right to change prices without prior notice.
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Contact Lisa Feldman / PR /  media@romainjerome.ch
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www.RomainJerome.ch