Friday, November 6, 2015

MB&F – LEGACY MACHINE Perpetual Limited Edition


MB&FLEGACY MACHINE Perpetual Limited Edition NEW
LEGACY MACHINE Perpetual
Reinventing the perpetual calendar

Beginning with a blank sheet of paper, MB&F and independent Irish watchmaker Stephen McDonnell have completely reinvented that most traditional of horological complications: the perpetual calendar. The result is Legacy Machine Perpetual, featuring a visually stunning in-house movement – developed from the ground up to eliminate the drawbacks of conventional perpetual calendars.

The fact that the new complication looks sensational and can be fully appreciated dial-side is just one of the many benefits offered by the new movement, controlled by a mechanical processor (patent pending).
 
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LM Perpetual features a fully integrated 581-component calibre − no module, no base movement − with a revolutionary new system for calculating the number of days in each month. And it holistically reinterprets the aesthetics of the perpetual calendar by placing the full complication on dial-free display underneath a spectacular suspended balance.

The perpetual calendar is one of the great traditional complications, calculating the apparently random complexity of the varying numbers of days in each month − including the 29 days in February during leap years. But traditional perpetual calendars do have a few drawbacks: dates can skip; they are relatively easy to damage if adjusted while the date is changing; and the complications are usually compromises of modules powered by base movements.

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The fully integrated, purpose-built movement of Legacy Machine Perpetual has been designed from scratch for trouble-free use: no more skipping dates or jamming gears, and the adjuster pushers automatically deactivate when the calendar changes, so no problems there either!

Traditional perpetual calendar mechanisms use a 31-day month as the default and basically "delete" superfluous dates for the months with fewer days – by fast-forwarding through the redundant dates during changeover. A traditional perpetual calendar changing from February 28 to March 1 scrolls quickly through the 29th, 30th and 31st to arrive at the 1st.

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LM Perpetual turns the traditional perpetual calendar system on its head by using a “mechanical processor” instead of the conventional space-consuming grand levier (big lever) system architecture. The mechanical processor utilises a default 28-day month and adds extra days as required. This means that each month always has the exact number of days required; there is no fast-forwarding or skipping redundant days. And while the leap year can only be set on traditional perpetual calendars by scrolling through up to 47 months, LM Perpetual has a dedicated quickset pusher to adjust the year.

With its open dial revealing the full complication and suspended balance, it's the harmonious mechanical beauty of LM Perpetual that really steals the show. And in an interesting technical twist, that eye-catching balance hovering on high is connected to the escapement on the back of the movement by what is likely to be the world's longest balance staff.

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Using an innovative system developed especially for Legacy Machine Perpetual, the subdials appear to "float" above the movement with no visible attachments. The skeletonised subdials rest on hidden studs, which is technically impossible with traditional perpetual calendar mechanisms because they would block the movement of the grand levier.

Taking a clockwise tour of the dial, at 12 o'clock we see the hours and minutes nestled between the elegant arches of the balance; day of the week at 3 o'clock, power reserve indicator at 4 o'clock, month at 6 o'clock, retrograde leap year indicator at 7 o'clock, and date at 9 o'clock. 

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LM Perpetual: complexity simplified with integrity and beauty.

Legacy Machine Perpetual launches with a limited edition of 25 pieces in 18K red gold and 25 pieces in platinum 950.


Legacy Machine Perpetual in detail

Inspiration and realisation

The Legacy Machine collection was conceived when MB&F owner and creative director Maximilian Büsser started fantasising. "What would have happened if I had been born in 1867 instead of 1967? In the early 1900s the first wristwatches appear, and I would want to create three-dimensional machines for the wrist, but Grendizers, Star Wars, and fighter jets would not have been around for my inspiration. But I do have pocket watches, the Eiffel Tower, and Jules Verne, so what might my 1900s machine look like? It has to be round and it has to be three-dimensional." The result of this was Legacy Machine No.1, first launched in 2011 – followed later by LM2 and LM101.

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The LM Perpetual project began with a meeting between Maximilian Büsser and Northern Irish watchmaker Stephen McDonnell. McDonnell had been a long-time Friend of the brand and played an instrumental role in the realisation of MB&F's very first timepiece, Horological Machine No.1.

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As Büsser was thinking of developing a perpetual calendar for the fourth watch in the Legacy Machine collection, McDonnell replied that he had an idea for a perpetual calendar that addresses many of the drawbacks associated with conventional examples.

Three years and a great many sleepless nights later, Legacy Machine Perpetual was born.

Conventional perpetual calendars

Conventional perpetual calendars are generally modules comprising the complication, which is fitted on top of an existing movement. The calendar indications are synchronised by a long lever (in French: grand levier) running across the top of the complication and passing through the centre. As the date changes, this long lever transmits information to the appropriate components and mechanisms by moving backwards and forwards.

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The existence of the grand levier means that there can be nothing in the centre of the complication that might impede it – like a suspended balance with its staff running right down through the centre of the movement to an escapement on the back.

This lever also means that perpetual calendars require a full dial, which may have cut-outs or windows, as it is impossible to support subdials with studs because they would block the motion of the big lever mechanism.

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In the traditional grand levier system, perpetual calendars assume that, by default, all months have 31 days. At the end of months with less than 31 days, the mechanism quickly skips through the superfluous dates before arriving at the 1st of the new month.

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Any manipulation or adjustment of the date during changeover can result in damage to the mechanism, requiring expensive repairs by the manufacturer. The dates can also jump or skip during changeover, negating the whole point of the perpetual calendar in the first place, which is not requiring adjustment for years. Or decades.

"I call perpetual calendars boomerang watches because they come back for repair so often,” says Maximilian Büsser. “The mechanisms jam, block, break, or jump days when they shouldn't."
 
Mechanical processor

Legacy Machine Perpetual uses a patent-pending “mechanical processor” consisting of a series of superimposed disks. This revolutionary processor takes the default number of days in the month at 28 – because, logically, all months have at least 28 days – and then adds the extra days as required by each individual month. This ensures that each month has exactly the right number of days. There is no "skipping over" redundant days, so there is no possibility of the date jumping incorrectly.



Using a planetary cam, the mechanical processor also enables quicksetting of the year so that it displays correctly in the four-year leap year cycle, whereas traditional perpetual calendar mechanisms require the user to scroll through up to 47 months to arrive at the right month and year.

The mechanical processor also enables an inbuilt safety feature that disconnects the quickset pushers during the date changeover, eliminating any risk of damage while the date is changing.
 
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While the conception and development of this mechanical processor-controlled perpetual calendar complication is a noteworthy achievement in itself, Stephen McDonnell went even further by managing to place all 581 components of the movement in virtually the same-sized case as LM1.

Opening up a new world of perpetual calendar aesthetics

Doing away with the calendar’s big lever has allowed for completely new aesthetics not possible when conventional systems are in use. MB&F’s mechanical processor enables the centre of the complication to be used, thereby saving space and allowing design freedom as the full dial is no longer necessary.

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Legacy Machine Perpetual takes advantage of its fully integrated movement to place the perpetual calendar mechanism on top of the movement main plate so that it can be appreciated from above. Legibility is often an issue with perpetual calendars due to the sheer number of indications, and LM Perpetual addresses this by using skeletonised subdials (except for the time indication) that appear to float above the complication with no apparent support from below.

Balance above, escapement below

In yet another innovation, Legacy Machine Perpetual uses what is likely to be the world's longest balance wheel pinion to connect that elegantly suspended balance, hovering above the top of the movement, to the escapement on the back of the movement. Ensuring the practicality and reliability of this approach was essential before any other development work began.

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While the view through the display back is animated by the escapement, it's the spectacular hand-finishing of the bridges and plates that really captivates the eye.

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TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS

Model: LM Perpetual

LEGACY MACHINE Perpetual Limited launch editions of 25 pieces in 18K Red Gold and 25 pieces in Platinum 950.

Engine:
Fully integrated perpetual calendar developed for MB&F by Stephen McDonnell,
featuring dial-side complication and mechanical processor system architecture with inbuilt safety mechanism.
Manual winding with double mainspring barrels.
Bespoke 14mm balance wheel with traditional regulating screws visible on top of the movement.
Superlative hand finishing throughout respecting 19 th century style;
internal bevel angles highlighting hand craft; polished bevels; Geneva waves; hand-made engravings.
Power reserve: 72 hours
Balance frequency: 18,000bph / 2.5Hz
Number of components: 581
Number of jewels: 41

Functions/indications:
Hours, minutes, day, date, month,
retrograde leap year and power reserve indicators.
Case:
Material: launch editions in 18K 5N+ Red Gold or Platinum 950
Dimensions: 44 mm x 17.5 mm
Number of components: 69 components
Water resistance: 30 m / 90' / 3 atm.
Sapphire crystals:
Sapphire crystals on top and display back treated with anti-reflective coating on both faces.
Strap & Buckle:
Black or dark brown hand-stitched alligator strap with gold / platinum folding buckle matching case material.

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Thursday, November 5, 2015

Bell & Ross – VINTAGE BR GT Automatic














Bell & Ross VINTAGE BR GT Automatic

PAYING HOMAGE TO THE STYLE OF THE RACING 
DRIVERS OF THE SEVENTIES

Since its foundation, Bell & Ross has taken aviation – more specifically, aircraft instrumentation – as one of its main sources of inspiration. As ever, it is a question of reinventing historical heritage and tradition.

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Bell & Ross watches take their rigorous and exacting standards of legibility, functionality, precision and reliability from the first pillar of the design brief: military specifications. The second pillar is formed by the stylistic and societal codes that are carefully respected and reinterpreted to develop models, which are original and professional, while remaining faithful to their source of inspiration.

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At the heart of the Vintage collection, the new line of BR GT watches takes time away from the world of aviation to explore a new dimension of the passion for navigation, so dear to the brand, by lending a new contemporary interpretation to the chronographs worn by racing drivers of the 1970s, an extraordinary era of creativity, innovation and freedom. Bell & Ross has, therefore, applied this relationship between man and machine to accurately and carefully designed instruments dedicated to calculating time and speed.

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TWO RACING DRIVER WATCHES WITH A TIMELESS ALLURE

From the first glance, the two Vintage BR GT models reveal the spirit of 1970s racing driver watches. In reference to the technical criteria of the era, these highly balanced instruments – with a resolutely neo-retro look– are housed in a 42-mm case with an understated, modern design in steel with satin finishes.

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Like the BR01, the brand’s iconic watch and emblematic model inspired by aircraft instrumentation, the graphic design of the Vintage BR GT dial hints at the rev counters and dashboard instruments found in classic 1970s cars. This functional reference is emphasized by the contrast of the two bold colours that brighten the dials. The pitch black dial provides a stark contrast to the steel colour of the auxiliary counters and appliqué indices. The facetted, photo-luminescent, metallic hands (for hours and minutes) also play on this same contrast, offering perfect legibility. The counters highlight exceptional finishes thanks to their snailed guilloché work realised in the great Swiss watchmaking tradition.

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Like the timepieces of the era, the two Vintage BR GT watches feature an ultra-curved high-dome sapphire crystal with two layers of anti-reflective coating, for enhanced resistance and excellent legibility. The spirit of the Seventies is further reinforced by the elegant satin-finished steel bezel, which provides a striking touch. With 60-minute gradations on the three-hand version, this elegant bezel indicates a tachymeter scale on the chronograph version, prioritising the measurement of short time periods and enabling performance and speed to be read immediately.

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Powered by two Swiss self-winding mechanical movements, renowned for their reliability and endurance, the
Vintage BR GT watches are water-resistant to 100 metres. Racing driver watches with a timeless design, these two models are paired with a black, micro-perforated strap made from Alcantara®; with a special suede-like touch, that was used in car upholstery in the 1970s.

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Lined with stitched leather and fitted with a signed, satin-finished steel folding buckle, the straps on the Vintage BR GT watches combine solidity with comfort and flexibility for an ultra-stylish look. Two watches designed with a nostalgic glance back to the Seventies, for gentlemen drivers who like to live life in the fast lane.

THE QUINTESSENCE OF SPORT-CHIC VINTAGE

Both sporty and elegant, Vintage BR GT watches are evocative of an era that inspires modern men in search of authenticity: the era of the cool, rather wacky racing drivers of the Seventies. As in this decade, Bell & Ross Vintage BR GT watches are designed to be worn in all circumstances, with a three-piece suit during the week or with jeans at the weekend; and, of course, behind the wheel of fine cars…

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Technical Specifications

Model: VINTAGE 

BR 123 GT Automatic 42 mm

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BR 126 GT Automatic Chronograph 42 mm

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Movement
Bell & Ross Automatic mechanical movement:
BR 123 GT: automatic mechanical. Calibre BR-CAL.305
BR 126 GT: automatic mechanical. Calibre BR-CAL.301

Functions
BR 123 GT:  hours, minutes, small seconds at 6 o'clock. Date.
BR 126 GT:  hours, minutes, small seconds at 3 o’clock. Date.
Chronograph: 
30-min timer at 9 o’clock.
Central chronograph seconds.
Tachymeter scale on the bezel.
Case
42 mm diameter
Satin-finished steel.
Graduated fixed bezel.
Dial
Black.
Metal appliqué numerals and indices.
Minute track on metal surround.
Metal skeleton Superluminova ® -filled hour and minute hands.
Crystal:
Ultra-curved high-dome sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating. 
Water-resistance: 100 m
Strap
Black Alcantara ® or satin-finished steel.
Buckle:
Folding. Satin-finished steel.

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