Tuesday, January 20, 2015

PANERAI – LUMINOR SUBMERSIBLE 1950 3 DAYS CHRONO FLYBACK AUTOMATIC TITANIO - 47mm


OFFICINE PANERAILUMINOR SUBMERSIBLE 1950 3 DAYS CHRONO FLYBACK AUTOMATIC TITANIO - 47mm (PAM00615) NEW

The two new Submersible models from Officine Panerai, with the Luminor 1950 case in brushed titanium, have an automatic chronograph calibre with flyback function and they are available with a rotating bezel of titanium or black ceramic.

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Many fundamental innovations which have marked the history of the mechanical watch were developed in the military field in the first half of the last century. In those years the highest possible quality was required from instruments created for use by specialist forces, which often operated in conditions of extreme danger, and their requirements gave rise to many of the functions which are found in luxury sports watches today. The new Luminor Submersible 1950 3 Days Chrono Flyback Automatic Titanio - 47mm from Officine Panerai reunites features which have in common the military context of their origins, and they appear as two contemporary watches with a strongly sporting character, with great personality and the purest Panerai identity.

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Like all Panerai watches, the main world of reference is of course that of the sea. Professional underwater models that are water-resistant to a pressure of 30 bar (a depth of about 300 metres), the new Luminor Submersible 1950 watches have a large Luminor 1950 case, with a diameter of 47 mm. The iconic design of the case, immediately recognisable by the device protecting the winding crown, is integrated with an element whose historic origins go back to the model created by Officine Panerai in 1956 for the Egyptian Navy: the unidirectional rotating bezel for calculating the time of immersion. Two versions of this are available: one with a bezel made entirely of brushed titanium (PAM00614) and the other with a special bezel of titanium to which a matt black ceramic disk has been applied, with linear markers and dots in titanium (PAM00615). Both models are supplied with a black rubber strap, soft and durable, ideal for an underwater watch and personalised with the OP logo in Panerai blue.

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The other function of the new Luminor Submersible 1950 originating from requirements which arose in the military field in the 1930s is that of the flyback chronograph. Also known as the “retour en vol”, this function enables the chronograph hand that is already moving to be zeroed and instantly restarted by a single pressure, without it being necessary first to stop the hand and then to return it to zero. In the Luminor Submersible 1950 the push button which controls the stopping and starting of the chronograph is at ten o’clock, while the push button at eight o’clock operates the flyback function and zeros the chronograph hand after it has been stopped.

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To ensure the simplest and clearest possible reading, the chronograph minutes and seconds hands are both positioned centrally on the central dial and distinguished from each other by being different colours: the seconds hand is blue while the minute hand is rhodium plated, advancing instantaneously with a jump every sixty seconds. The colours chosen for the hands enhance the minimalist design of the black dial, with its dot-shaped hour markers and simple figures, and the small continuous seconds counter at nine o’clock. The two models have different elements at three o’clock: the model with the titanium bezel has the date window in this position while the model with ceramic bezel has the chronograph hour counter there.

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The movement of the Luminor Submersible 1950is the P.9100 calibre, the first automatic chronograph calibre developed and made in the Panerai manufacture in Neuchâtel. Many details bear witness to its sophisticated construction: the vertical clutch, the column wheel, the two spring barrels connected in series which guarantee a power reserve of three days, the oscillating weight which winds the spring barrels as it moves in both directions, and the variable inertia balance which oscillates at 28,800 vibrations per hour. To ensure the greatest accuracy when adjusting the watch, the mechanism has the device for stopping the balance wheel and the system which enables the hour hand to be moved backwards or forwards in jumps of precisely one hour, without interrupting the movement of the minute hand. The movement consists of 302 components and it is 13¾ lignes in diameter and 8.15 mm thick.

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Both versions of the Luminor Submersible 1950 3 Days Chrono Flyback Automatic Titanio - 47mm are supplied with a spare strap, a screwdriver and the special tool for changing the strap.

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Technical Specifications

Reference: PAM00615

Divers Professional

MOVEMENT: 
Automatic mechanical, P.9100 calibre, executed entirely by Panerai.
Movement consists of 302 components

FUNCTIONS: 
Hours, minutes, small seconds, date, calculation of immersion time,
Flyback chronograph, seconds reset.

CASE: 47mm, brushed  titanium.

DIAL:
Black with applied luminous dots and Arabic numerals.
Date at 3 o’clock, seconds at 9 o’clock, central chronograph seconds and minutes hands.

POWER RESERVE: 72H.

WATER-RESISTANCE: 30 bar (~300 metres).

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Monday, January 19, 2015

De Bethune – DB25T Zodiac















De BethuneDB25T Zodiac Limited Edition NEW

As the proud standard-bearer of a genuinely exclusive approach to Haute Horlogerie, the DB25T by De Bethune makes innovation the very heart of its construction reflecting a proud horological tradition.

Innovation has always been the touchstone of the masterpieces that have punctuated the history of horology. The grand masters used the technologies, the tools and the means of their era in order to surpass their own knowledge and push their achievements to ever-greater heights of excellence. It is this spirit of innovation that the watchmaking tradition cultivated by David Zanetta and Denis Flageollet interprets in a resolutely modern mode. This artistic approach and this vision of contemporary watchmaking are grounded on the solid foundations of technical knowledge, well-mastered expertise and a culture nurtured by several centuries of history and enriched with all kinds of beauty.

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This creation features references to the imposing tower clocks that are still enthroned in certain European cities and which have been an infinite source of inspiration for horologists wishing to convey their beauty and their grandeur through the ages.

Table clocks or grandfather clocks, pocket watches and now wristwatches: the very essence of this horological culture graces the dial of the DB25T, notably in the aesthetic work on materials, the engraving and the light effects, but also and above all through consistently demonstrated miniaturisation technology.

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The round case of the DB25 and its elegantly openworked lugs frame a polished and blued titanium sky adorned with hand-engravings on solid gold and representing the 12 zodiac signs. These symbols, which are an integral part of the aesthetic and artistic world of horology, lend a sense of infinity to the depth of the De Bethune star-studded sky.
The radiance instilled by the silver-toned guilloché decoration radiating from the dial centre contributes to the multiple shimmering light effects on the finely grained rings, and on the openworked polished yellow gold hands.

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The technical nature and the high frequency of the DB2109 mechanism driving the jumping seconds display makes a striking contrast with the almost poetic delicacy with which this large blue hand finely points to every second. De Bethune wished to revive the traditions of the golden age of horology by infusing this movement with the soul and the majesty of the great historical regulator clocks. “Jumping seconds” was a natural choice to impart a noble cadence to the passing of time. The components are pared down to essentials and feature simplicity where required and complexity where necessary.

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A deltoid-shaped bridge adorned with the “Côtes De Bethune” motif supports the central seconds hand, while a double lever with four pallets drives the double gold wheel of this “jumping seconds”. The latter performs an impressive mechanical ballet rendered technically feasible by new technologies, but which is bound to thrill the heart – and mind – of any devotee of classical mechanisms.
Further enhancing this intensely private performance visible exclusively on the back of the watch, De Bethune has equipped the DB2109 with its silicon-titanium tourbillon making one rotation every 30 seconds at the optimal frequency of 36,000 vph. This ultra-light tourbillon comprises 63 parts, of which the lightest weighs less than 0.0001 grams and the heaviest 0.0276 grams!
A light, airy style expressing a profound underlying idea. The subtle gyrations of the tourbillon carriage and the ample, steady beat of the seconds. Refined decorations and well-balanced lines: this creation embodies the very essence of horological emotions, along with a form of absolute and uncompromising beauty.

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Technical Specifications

Ref: DB29RS1 DB25T Zodiac
20-piece limited edition

Calibre DB2109
Mechanical hand-wound movement
Functions: hours – minutes – central jumping seconds – movement operating indicator at 12
o’clock – tourbillon with 30-seconds indication on the back
Diameter 30 mm – 320 parts – hand-crafted finishing and decoration – Côtes De Bethune
blued titanium bridges and parts
Self-regulating twin barrel*
Silicon/white gold balance – balance-spring with flat terminal curve *
De Bethune silicon/titanium 36,000 vph 30-second tourbillon*
Central jumping seconds
*
Silicon escape whee
l*
Jewelling: 50 jewels
Frequency: 36,000 vibrations per hour
Power reserve: 4 days
* Manufacture De Bethune  patents and innovations

Fonctions
Hours – minutes – central jumping seconds – movement operating indicator at 12 o’clock –
tourbillon with 30-second indication on the backMovement
Calibre DB2109 – Mechanical hand-wound movement
Power reserve: 4 days
Case
White gold, drum-shaped – diameter 44 mm – thickness 10, 6 mm
Attachments: hollowed lugs
Glass: sapphire crystal, 1800 Vickers hardness with double anti-reflective treatment
Crown: at 3 o’clock –setting in two positions
Back: open – De Bethune 30" silicon/titanium Tourbillon, 36,000 vph – central jumping seconds
Calibre DB2109
Display
Dial: uilloché silver-toned – silver-toned hours and minutes rings – De Bethune star-studded
sky in blued mirror-polished titanium inlaid with solid white gold stars, featuring solid gold
inserts hand-engraved by artist Michèle Rothen representing the 12 zodiac signs
Hands: yellow gold hours and minutes hand, jumping seconds hand in hand-polished and
blued steel.
Strap
Navy blue – extra-supple alligator leather with pin buckle

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Press release Geneva 2015
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De Bethune Geneva Office 
25 Grand-Rue 1204 Geneva
Switzerland
Tel: +41 22 310 22 71
Fax: +41 22 310 33 40
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