Tuesday, December 2, 2014

DeWitt – ACADEMIA Chronograph Unique Piece


DeWittACADEMIA Chronograph Unique Piece - Robb Report 2014

DeWitt is unveiling an extraordinary technical innovation, the Academia watch, a unique piece. 

It was designed by Count Jérôme de Witt and his teams, at the request of Robb Report, for an impassioned watch collector for whom it will be made exclusively.


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Based on a vintage drawing from the personal collection of Jérôme de Witt, the calibre of the watch is unique, as is every component part. 

The elements of the movement have been redesigned, rebuilt and decorated by hand according to the traditional expertise and the very high level of finishing of the DeWitt manufacture.
This amazing watchmaking creation includes ten functions in a single watch: an unparalleled technical feat.

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-  Minute repeater
-  Chronograph
-  Reverse split-second flyback
-  Moon phase
-  Day/night indicator
-  Dual time-zone display
-  Automaton for chiming
-  Hours
-  Minutes
-  Central second

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Ten functions!
Including some that have been invented and added to the basic mechanica movement by DeWitt master watchmakers:
  • - moon phase
  • - dual time-zone display
  • - day/night indicator
To perfect one of the purest and most complex complications, the chronograph and fly-back are activated by a single central push-piece.
The exceptional fly-back function is rare in watchmaking design, with the wheel of the fly-back located in the centre, turning around the chronograph wheel.
The second time zone function is regulated using a direct drive corrector that allows for optimal comfort and faster winding. 

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In total, between 500 and 600 watch parts make up this remarkable calibre.
The Academia case is decorated with the famous DeWitt imperial column motif. With a diameter of 46 mm, and water resistance to 30 metres, it will be available in 18-carat rose gold or platinum, according to the buyer's preference.

On the left side of the case is the repeater slide to activate the striking mechanism, which is set off at certain times through an ingenious and poetic automaton system.
On the upper part of the guilloché dial of the watch, at 12 o'clock, an entirely hand made mechanism opens a window when the minute repeater is engaged. 
The doors disappear and reveal, around the decorative music note, an animated motif that symbolically illustrates the propagation of sound.

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The doors close once more as soon as the chime stops.
The buyer of this exceptional piece will also be given the opportunity to adapt the colours and finishes of the dial of the piece, in concert with DeWitt's dial specialists, who will hand craft the piece in the manufacture.
The particularly refined finishes of the Academia Unique Piece watch, which can be seen through the sapphire case back, testify to the expertise of the artisan craftsmanship.

DeWitt is pleased and proud to have designed this exceptional watchmaking feat that awaits its owner, for 1’695’000 dollars for the platinum version and 1’650’000 dollars for the rose gold version.

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TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS

Model: ACADEMIA Unique Piece

Reference : AC.UP.001

Movement
Calibre: Ref DW9901
Mechanical manually wound movement integrating 11
Diameter: 39.1 mm
Thickness: 3.8 mm
Vibrations: 18,000 vph
Balance: Bi-metallic screwed balance
Spiral: Blued Breguet spiral
Escapement: Swiss lever
Jewels: 35 minimum
Number of components: Estimated at 550, according to the final design specifications
Functions
Minute repeater that includes a mechanism(automaton) that is activated when the chime sounds and opens to reveal the movement of the racks as well as an animated module that represents the chime, chronograph, reverse split-seconds, dual time, moon phase, day/night indicator, tachymeter, hours, minutes, seconds
Case
Round case
Material: Platinum or 18-carat rose gold
Diameter: 46 mm
Total thickness: 14.8 mm
Crown: Platinum or 18-carat rose gold polished crown, “W” signature
Case back: Sapphire crystal, secured with screws
Distance between lugs: 23 mm
Dial
Silvered guilloché dial, to be customised according to the client
Hands: Hours and minutes: open-worked hands in the shape of double- edged swords
Water-resistance: 30 metres
Wristband
Alligator leather
Buckle: Platinum or 18-carat rose gold triple blade folding clasp, polished, “W” signature

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blog.dewitt.ch
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www.DeWitt.ch

Saturday, November 29, 2014

PANERAI – LUMINOR 1950 3 Days Chrono Flyback Automatic CERAMICA


OFFICINE PANERAI LUMINOR 1950  3 Days Chrono Flyback Automatic CERAMICA 44mm - PAM00580


THE NEW PANERAI FLYBACK CHRONOGRAPH WITH AUTOMATIC CALIBER P.9100 IS EXECUTED IN BLACK MATT CERAMIC BASED ON ZIRCONIUM OXIDE

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It is a strongly sporting heart which beats within the Luminor 1950 3 Days Chrono Flyback Automatic Ceramica, the new Officine Panerai watch in which the classic quality of the design is masterfully integrated with the sophistication of the P.9100 manufacture chronograph movement and with the remarkable technical quality and design of the black ceramic case. 


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The essential lines of the case and dial are faithful to the unmistakable Panerai identity, being unaffected by the existence of the flyback function, which instantly zeroes the chronograph hands and restarts them without it being necessary to stop and zero them first. In the P.9100 calibre the blue chronograph seconds hand and the rhodium plated minute hand are centrally mounted, so that the dial carries only the continuous small seconds counter at nine o’clock, symmetrical with the date window.

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The push-pieces which control the chronograph functions are positioned at 8 o’clock (flyback, reset) and 10 o’clock (start, stop), thus leaving intact the outline of the lever device protecting the crown which helps make the case of the Luminor 1950 water-resistant to 10 bar (equivalent to a depth of about 100 metres).

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The material of the Luminor 1950 case, 44 mm in diameter, is a synthetic ceramic based on zirconium oxide, which is up to five times harder than steel but substantially lighter in weight, as well as exceptionally resistant to scratches, corrosive agents and high temperatures. Technologically it is a very advanced material which is complicated to synthesise. It is created by a long, delicate process which transforms zirconium powder into a black ceramic, with a matt finish, remarkably even and pleasant to the touch. Every component of the case is individually moulded and undergoes successive stages of working and firing, first at a low temperature (about 100 °C) and then at a higher temperature (up to 1500 °C), for about three days.

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The process is concluded with the finishing stage, crucial for ensuring that the dimensions and proportions of all the components are absolutely perfect, culminating in the final bead blasting which gives it an even, matt finish. On the back of the case a large porthole in sapphire crystal reveals the P.9100 manufacture movement, the first chronograph calibre with automatic winding completely developed and made in the Officine Panerai manufacture.

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The calibre has the typical characteristics of a top-ofthe-range chronograph, such as the column wheel and the vertical clutch. It has two spring barrels connected in series which provide a power reserve of three days, a bidirectional rotor which winds the springs of the two barrels, and a variable inertia balance wheel which oscillates at 28,800 vibrations/hour (4 Hz). Fitted with the device for instantly zeroing the seconds, the P.9100 calibre consists of 302 components and is 13¾ lignes in diameter and 8.15 mm thick.

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The Luminor 1950 3 Days Chrono Flyback Automatic Ceramica (PAM00580) is supplied with a natural untreated leather strap and a second strap made of rubber.

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The buckle is in titanium, a light, strong, hypo-allergenic material to which a special resistant black coating has been applied so that it matches the appearance of the watch, and it is easily replaceable using the screwdriver supplied.

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TECHINCAL SPECIFICATIONS

 
Model: LUMINOR 1950 3 Days Chrono Flyback Automatic CERAMICA – 44mm
 
Reference: PAM00580.

Unique edition of 500 pieces

Movement: 

Automatic mechanical, Panerai P.9100 calibre, executed entirely by Panerai,
• Power reserve of 3 days
• 302 components
• 37 jewels
• 13¾ lignes in diameter
• 8.15 mm thick
• Two spring barrels
• Column wheel
• Vertical clutch
• Oscillation frequency 4 Hz
• Incabloc® anti-shock device 
Functions:  
Hours, minutes, small seconds, date, 
Flyback chronograph, seconds reset.
Case: Diameter 44 mm, black ceramic. 
Back: See - through sapphire crystal
Bezel: Matt black ceramic.
Device protecting the crown: Matt Black Ceramic (protected as a trademark).
Dial:  
Black with luminous Arabic numerals and hour markers. 
Date at 3 o’clock, seconds at 9 o’clock, central chronograph seconds and minutes hands.
Crystal: Sapphire, made from corundum, 2.5 mm thick. Anti-reflective coating.
Water-resistance: 10 bar (~ 100 metres).
Strap: 
Calf Assolutamente Dark Brown, Beige, STD, 24/22, BA,
Luminor - Luminor 1950 44mm, Radiomir 1940 45mm.
Buckle: Trapezoidal matt titanium with black coating, 22mm,
Luminor 44-47 mm, Radiomir 45-47-48 mm and Radiomir 1940 47 mm.



* The trademark Velcro® and Coramid® are notproperty of Officine Panerai
*Officine Panerai is not the owner of the Glucydur® and KIF Parechoc® trademarks.

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