Tuesday, March 25, 2014

De Bethune – DB29 Maxichrono Tourbillon















De BethuneDB29 Maxichrono Tourbillon NEW

Unique in watchmaking history

Introducing De Bethune’s neo-mechanics

Twelve years ago David Zanetta, an art lover and connoisseur of traditional watchmaking, and Denis  Flageollet, an innovative designer and constructor of watches, set up the De Bethune project, ranging from the development of watchmaking techniques to research applied to the horological arts.

Their research follows on from that undertaken by the great horologists of the age of enlightenment,
while assimilating the new technologies and materials to which the fundamental calculations and
principles of conventional mechanics have been applied.
The various innovations emanating from the De Bethune laboratory not only bear witness to these
intentions, they also express the conviction that there is much unexplored territory in the field of
watchmaking technology.
Work on the regulating organ that is at the heart of every watch obeys well-known physical
properties: inertia, mass, elasticity, surface friction and magnetism. Fundamental to the improved
precision and efficiency of watch movements are such technological advances as the patented
balance-spring with flat terminal curve, balance-wheels in silicon and white gold or in titanium and
platinum featuring maximum inertia for a minimum weight, as well as the development of a real
tourbillon for the wrist in silicon and titanium.
The DB29 Maxichrono Tourbillon, the result of seven years of research and development, is the only
one of its kind. This exceptional patented chronograph, packed with innovations, embodies the
essence of De Bethune’s watchmaking.

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A mono-pusher chronograph

The rose-gold case of the DB29 with its smooth curves features the brand’s trademark cone-shaped
lugs. The double case back of this time-measuring instrument is fitted with an invisible hinge so as not
to detract from its clean lines. A single push button, coaxial with the crown at 3 o'clock, operates the
chronograph.

Five central hands

The design of the DB29 Maxichrono Tourbillon’s dial with its five central hands aims to make it easier
and more attractive to read the chronograph indications by doing away with the small subdials of
the conventional chronograph. The hands that give this watch its identity are designed to follow the
different shapes and curves of the silver-toned dial. They are all in hand-polished steel that has been flame-blued by the company’s craftsmen, apart from the chronograph minutes hand, which is in
rose gold.

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Measuring long elapsed times: 23 hours, 59 minutes and 59.9 seconds

This instrument measures long elapsed times with counters for 60 seconds, 60 minutes and 24 hours.
The central chronograph hands are mounted on co-axial stacked wheels, a complex system that
requires real technical expertise to achieve.
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Thanks to the precision ensured by the De Bethune 30-second Tourbillon in silicon and titanium
oscillating at a rate of 36,000 vibrations per hour – one of the fastest and lightest on the market with
its 63 parts weighing a total of 0.18 grams – time is accurately measured and the maximum duration
of elapsed-time measurements amounts to a generous 23 hours, 59 minutes and 59.9 seconds.

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A push button at 4 o'clock opens the cover on the sapphire-crystal glass of a titanium case back to
reveal the modern construction of the calibre DB2039 movement with its polished steel bridges, the
tourbillon at 3 o'clock and the complex mechanism of an innovative time-measuring system
featuring three column-wheels.

De Bethune total clutch system: a patented chronograph invention

De Bethune’s research and development department has announced the filing of a patent
application n° CH00076/14 for the chronograph mechanism. De Bethune’s absolute clutch aims to
improve the performance of chronographs by correcting the faults identified in current mechanisms.
This mechanism makes the most of the advantages of the horizontal and vertical clutch systems
while eliminating their faults. It thus benefits from a marked reduction in the friction that affects the
movement both when the chronograph is running and when it is functioning without the
chronograph engaged.

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The absolute clutch operates in a system engaging the two traditional clutch methods to allow the
different chronograph counters to function semi-autonomously:
  •  The chronograph seconds are governed by the new absolute clutch system;
  •  The minutes counter is controlled by a shifting pinion;
  •  The hours counter is engaged by a horizontal clutch.
Three different types of clutch behind three semi-independent systems controlled by three
column-wheels thus govern the different chronograph elapsed-time counters.

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In this way De Bethune marks a significant technological breakthrough in the history of
chronographs, the result of continuous research heralded by the DB21 Maxichrono in 2006. Constant
innovation relying on an extensive knowledge of age-old expertise has enabled the brand to simplify
and enhance the reliability of the absolute clutch system so that it can be implemented in a
movement manufactured by the production workshops in the Swiss village of L’Auberson.

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Technical Specifications

Ref: DB29RS1 DB29 Maxichrono Tourbillon

Calibre DB 2039
Mechanical hand-wound movement
Functions: hours – minutes – mono-pusher chronograph with 24-hour,
60-minute and 60-second Counters – De Bethune Tourbillon 30″ silicon/titanium 36,000 vph
Diameter 30 mm – 410 parts – hand-crafted finishing and decoration – hand-polished steel –
3 columns wheels
De Bethune absolute clutch *
Self-regulating twin barrel *
Silicon/white gold balance wheel – balance-spring with flat terminal curve*
De Bethune 30″silicon/titanium tourbillon, 36,000 vph*
Silicon escape whee
l*
Jewelling: 49 jewels
Frequency: 36,000 vibrations per hour
Power reserve: 5 days
* Manufacture De Bethune innovations and registered patents

Fonctions
Hours and Minutes
Mono-pusher chronograph with 24-hour, 60-minute and 60-second counters
De Bethune 30″silicon/titanium tourbillon
Movement
Calibre DB2039 – Mechanical hand-wound movement
Power reserve: 5 days
Case
5N rose gold – round-shaped – diameter 46 mm – thickness 11.70 mm
Attachments: cone-shaped lugs
Glass: sapphire crystal, 1800 Vickers hardness with double anti-reflective treatment
Crown: at 3 o’clock – mono-pusher button – setting in 2 positions – push button for the double back at 4 o’clock
Back: open – sapphire crystal, 1800 Vickers hardness with double anti-reflective treatment – De Bethune tourbillon 30′′ silicon/titanium 36,000 vph – chronograph calibre with hand-polished bridges
Double back: solid with invisible hinge – 5N rose gold
Display
Dial: silver-toned – the architecture of the dial is constructed on different levels; some are curved to maximize the visibility. From the centre to the periphery : central hours counter – hours inner ring – minutes ring and minutes counter – outer ring with chronograph seconds indication
Hands: 5 curved central hands – hand-polished and flame-blued steel for hours and minutes hands and hours and seconds chronograph indicators – minutes chronograph indicator in rose gold
Strap
Extra-supple alligator leather strap with pin buckle

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Press release - Geneva 2014
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Monday, March 24, 2014

DeWitt – Twenty-8-Eight Tourbillon Prestige


DeWittTwenty-8-Eight Tourbillon Prestige Limited Edition NEW

DeWitt unveils its latest technical innovation, the Twenty-8-Eight Tourbillon Prestige watch, a limited edition of 99 pieces, entirely conceived and assembled at the DeWitt Manufacture by its own master watchmakers.

The new Twenty-8-Eight Tourbillon Prestige houses the calibre DW 8015, developed from the DW 8014 movement that was first presented in 2010. This automatic Tourbillon introduces a patented and extremely ingenious Automatic Sequential Winding (A.S.W) device, driven by a peripheral oscillating rotor.
 
The A.S.W. device distributes a constant flow of energy to the main gear-train thanks to the sequenced winding of the barrel. Such a technical prowess makes it possible to obtain an ideal functioning range through the use of a single, manual-type barrel. Moreover, it avoids all the running defects observed when slip-springs are used on conventional automatic calibres.

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The peripheral oscillating rotor is attached to a ring with a sinusoidal profile on its inner edge. This particular shape will, in turn, activate the patented A.S.W system which enables the movement to always operate in an ideal functioning range, between 92 and 96% of the main-spring torque. The escapement is therefore guaranteed to always receive a constant and stable flow of energy thanks to this sequenced winding.

Indeed, two little arms, rocking up and down thanks to the rotation of the sinusoidal ring, ensure the winding of the barrel until it reaches 96% of the movement’s full winding. At that moment, a lever disengages the pawl from winding the barrel and forces it to continue its movement in the air, without hooking on to the wheel.

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The movement then runs on its accumulated reserves of energy, until it reaches 92% of the power reserve, and the pawl then hooks back on to resume winding the barrel. Such a technical prowess makes it possible to obtain an ideal functioning range through the use of a single, manual-type barrel. Moreover, it avoids all the running defects observed when slip-springs are used on conventional automatic calibres.

The method of displaying the dead-beat seconds hand in the centre of the dial makes for easier reading of the time. In direct contact with the Tourbillon cage, the ticking dead-beat seconds hand marks a pause for each second counted, which beautifully outlines the precision level achieved by the oscillating balance.

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Built out of some 334 components, the calibre DW 8015 is the perfect illustration of the inventive audacity of DeWitt’s master watchmakers. It combines the horological classicism of the tourbillon with the technological innovation of the A.S.W. (Automatic Sequential Winding) device. Moreover, the heart of the balance beats to the rhythm of a Straumann Hairspring® with Phillips curve. Developed from seven different elements, the alloy used is unbreakable, self-compensating, non-oxidizing and anti-magnetic. The perfect homogeneity of the hairspring and its incredibly precise flat rolling of 0.0001 mm, or 0.1 of a thousandth of a millimetre, give it its extremely high precision, thus guaranteeing the high performance of the mechanism.

The construction of the movement and of the dial take their inspiration from the world of architecture, using solid geometrical forms inspired by industrial metallic structures.
Thanks to an open-worked mainplate, the carriage of the Tourbillon is thus suspended in the air, producing an effect of transparency and of plunging into the very heart of the movement. The gear-train is unveiled through a dial featuring a fitted rhodium-plated matt chocolate-coloured grid. This robust, masculine aesthetic is reinforced by a series of screws. The power reserve is of 72 hours and is indicated at 9 o’clock by a hand that covers a 180 degree segment.
Its 46 mm case in 18-carat rose gold, adorned with the famous DeWitt imperial columns, matches the applique “W” signature in 18-carat rose gold at 12 o’clock, the hands and the gear-train of the movement.

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On the back of the case the two re-designed rear bridges mark out a strong contrast with their black PVD-treated surfaces. Like all great DeWitt complications, the Twenty-8-Eight Tourbillon Prestige watch bears the signature of the watchmaker who assembled the timepiece, this time directly inscribed on the movement’s rear bridge.

Last but not least, the new DW 8015 movement fully complies with the very demanding finishing norms established by the DeWitt Manufacture: Circular Côtes de Genève, satin-brushed surfaces, circular graining, polishing and bevelling.


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 TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS

Twenty-8-Eight Tourbillon Prestige 
 
Ref.  T8.TP.001

Calibre
Reference DW8015
Movement
Mechanical movement with Tourbillon and patented
Automatic Sequential Winding (A.S.W.) device, driven by a peripheral oscillating rotor
Tourbillon carriage suspended in the left
Dead-beat second is directly connected to the Tourbillon carriage
Signature of the watchmaker on the back bridge of the movement
Diameter: 37 mm
Power reserve: 72 hours
Vibrations: 18,000 A/h
Balance: Variable-inertia (Glucydur) balance
Spiral: DeWitt Straumann Hairspring® with Phillips curve sequenced at 2.5 Hz.
Escapement: 44° angle of lift
Jewels: 36 jewels
Number of components: 334
Functions
Tourbillon, hours, minutes, dead-beat seconds, power reserve
Case
Round case with DeWitt imperial columns on the sides
Material: 18-carat rose gold
Diameter: 46 mm
Total thickness: 12.10 mm
Crown: 18-carat rose gold polished crown adorned with a ring made in blackened titanium featuring the “W” signature
Case back: Sapphire crystal, secured with screws
Distance between lugs: 23 mm
Dial
Chocolate-brown dial with rhodium-plated railings
Open-work on the Tourbillon carriage at 6 o’clock and
on the power reserve at 9 o’clock
Railroad indicating the minutes
18-carat rose gold applique with the “W” logo at 12 o’clock
Hands: Hours and minutes: open-worked hands in the shape of double- edged swords
Water-resistance: 30 metres
Wristband
Bracelet: Semi-matt brown alligator leather strap
Buckle: 18-carat rose gold triple blade folding clasp, polished, “W” signature

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