Tuesday, November 12, 2013

De Bethune - DB28 T Black Сollection
















De Bethune - DB28T Black Tourbillon Сollection NEW

DB28 Black Сollection 
Black variations on the DB28 

Aesthetic BLACK 

Sometimes mirror-polished for a shiny look, sometimes satin-brushed for a matt finish, black zirconium is a key element in the composition of the cases and floating lugs of the DB28 The multiple ways in which the light plays across the material and its various finishes reveal countless different tones ranging from anthracite grey to intense black.

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 This pleasing aesthetic effect was already greatly appreciated on the DB28 dials, which opened a window onto the movement alternating between the sophisticated elegance of hand-polished bridges and the understated charm of Côtes de Genève reinterpreted by De Bethune.

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Technological BLACK 

In its research on materials and new processes, De Bethune saw the choice to machine zirconium as a natural and sustainable alternative for the colour black. The hardness of the metal as together stable oxidation that is unaffected by daily changes in temperature are twin assets that guarantee the resistance and durability of the exterior of a timepiece.

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Adorned with its famous crown at 12 o’clock, the DB28 which is known for the surprising lightness of its case and the comfort of its floating lugs – a patented system that adapts to the size of the wrist and its various movements – is as supple as ever, since the lightness of titanium is replaced by that of zirconium.

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New variations around a flagship model, featuring a contemporary design paradoxically inspired by that of historical pocket watches, highlight the technical breakthroughs achieved by the Manufacture and the meticulous decoration work of its artisans, custodians of age-old expertise.


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DB28 Black Matte – understated elegance 

Having won the 2011 “Aiguille d’Or”, the highest distinction awarded by the Geneva Watchmaking Grand Prix, for its DB28 model, De Bethune now offers a black interpretation of its iconic model.

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The DB28 Black matte is equipped with DB Calibre 2115 which is endowed with the technological innovations developed and produced within the Manufacture. Its precision is further consolidated by the self-regulating twin barrel and by the presence within the regulating organ of a silicon/palladium balance wheel and a balance-spring with a flat terminal curve, protected by the triple pare-chute system.

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As one can see from careful observation of the sky, moon phases are read off on an exclusive display by means of a platinum and blued steel sphere spinning on its axis and boasting a degree of precision equivalent to a mere one-day difference every 122 years.

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Technical Specifications

Functions 
Hours – minutes – power reserve displayed on the back – 30-second tourbillon
Movement 
DB 2019 calibre – - mechanical hand-wound
Power reserve: 5 days
Case 
Anthracite zirconium, distinctively shaped – diameter 42.60 mm
Attachments: short or long floating lugs* in anthracite zirconium
Back: open – power-reserve display and rack in pink gold
Display 
Dial: black – mirror-polished steel – silver-toned minutes ring – black hours ring – De Bethune 30” silicon/titanium tourbillon, 36,000 vph
Hands: in hand-polished steel
Strap 
Extra-supple alligator leather strap with pin buckle

* - Manufacture De Bethune patents and innovations



De Bethune - DB28T - Calibre DB 2019

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DB28T Black Gold – sophisticated elegance 

The DB28T is powerded by DB Calibre 2009, a mechanical hand-wound movement equipped with the De Bethune silicon/titanium tourbillon. De Bethune has undertaken a complete rethinking of the tourbillon in terms of its use in wristwatches. The laws of physical are implacable: to compensate for the random “violence” of wrist movements, the carriage must be as light as possible, with a high frequency and a maximum rotation speed, along with minimum weight and inertia. Based on new technologies, De Bethune has developed an 0.18 g silicon-titanium tourbillon fitted inside a carriage that spins on its axis every 30 seconds, and equipped with a balance-wheel oscillating at a frequency of 36,000 vibrations per hour. This tourbillon is the lightest on the market (classic tourbillons are four times heavier) and comprises 57 parts, of which the lightest weighs less than 0.0001 grams and the heaviest 0.0276 grams!

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Technical Specifications

Functions 
Hours – minutes – power reserve displayed on the back – 30-second tourbillon
Movement 
DB 2019 calibre – - mechanical hand-wound
Power reserve: 5 days
Case 
Rose gold, distinctively shaped – diameter 42.60 mm
Attachments: short or long floating lugs* in anthracite zirconium
Back: solid, in rose gold – linear power-reserve display
Display 
Dial: black – mirror-polished steel – silver-toned minutes ring – black hours ring – De Bethune 30” silicon/titanium tourbillon, 36,000 vph
Hands: in hand-polished steel
Strap 
Extra-supple alligator leather strap with pin buckle

* - Manufacture De Bethune patents and innovations

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Press release
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www.DeBethune.ch

Sunday, November 10, 2013

MB&F - HM5 RT in Red Gold















MB&F - Horological Machine No 5 RT Red Gold 

HM5 On the Road Again may appear relatively simple, but it’s complicated: the hour and minute displays look straightforward, but they are bi-directional jumping hours with indications inversed, reflected 90° to the vertical and magnified 20%; HM5 has a futuristic case design, but it's from the 1970s; HM5 has a mechanical movement, but it was inspired by an era when quartz was King; the rear louvres on supercars block light, but on HM5 they let it in; HM5 has exhaust pipes, but they drain water; HM5 is “On the Road Again”, but its inspiration barely left the garage.

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The last decade or two have seen an exponential growth in inventions that have revolutionised our lives. Robots may not cook dinner, but they can build cars, vacuum the home and mow the lawn. Sending a man to Mars is not a question of if, but when.
But imagine the exciting anticipation of the future in the early 1970s with the arrival of supercars, hovercrafts, the supersonic Concorde, Apollo moon landings… and high-precision quartz watches. Everything seemed possible: humanoid robots, jet-packs and flying cars. In the 1970s the future wasn’t tomorrow, it was today!

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In 1972, one plucky watch brand, Amida, decided to take on the quartz usurpers at their own game with the Digitrend, which featured a fashionably futuristic tapered case and vertical digital LED-look display powered by a mechanical movement. It looked just like a cutting-edge quartz watch and it eventually became an iconic timepiece. Unfortunately, appreciation came too late to save Amida.

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The unmistakable wedge-shaped case of HM5 On the Road Again is direct homage to the daring Amida Digitrend. However, it also takes unmistakable cues from the sleek low-slung supercars of the epoch, with louvres on their near horizontal rear windows blocking sunlight and heat. Conversely, the slide operated louvres on HM5 open to allow light in to charge on the Super-LumiNova numbers on the time disks.

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Another distinguishing feature of supercars are throaty exhaust pipes. HM5 has dual exhausts to drain water, in case – like James Bond’s Lotus in ‘The Spy Who Loved Me’ – HM5 gets wet. An inner water-resistant case keeps HM5’s Engine nice and dry.

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An optical grade sapphire prism reflects the horizontal hour and minutes so that they display vertically and a convex lens magnifies the numeral by 20% for improved legibility. The vertical forward-facing display makes HM5 an excellent driver’s watch as there is no need to lift your wrist from the steering wheel to read the display.

HM5 takes these 1970s icons and now, 40 years into the future, puts them “On the Road Again”.

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Technical details

ENGINE
Three-dimensional horological engine developed by Jean-François Mojon and Vincent
Boucard of Chronode
Powered by a Sowind gear train
Battle-axe 22k gold ‘mystery’ automatic winding rotor
Power reserve: 42 hours
Balance frequency: 28,800bph/4Hz
Number of components: 224
Number of jewels: 30
Engine housed in a water resistant, titanium inner container
FUNCTIONS / INDICATIONS
Minutes and bi-directional jumping hours displayed by reflective sapphire crystal prism with
integrated magnifying lens
Slide to open/close louvres on case top
CASE
18k red gold and titanium with internal water resistant titanium engine container
Slide button to open/close louvres
Exhaust ports to drain water
Dimensions: 51.5mm x 49mm x 22.5mm
Number of components: 80
Water resistance of engine container: 30m / 90’ / 3atm
SAPPHIRE CRYSTALS
Smoked optical grade sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating and 20% magnification.
Sapphire crystal on back with anti-reflective treatment on both faces.
STRAP & BUCKLE
Sculptured rubber strap, titanium tang buckle

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