Saturday, July 20, 2013

PANERAI - Luminor Marina 8 Days - 44mm

PANERAI - Luminor Marina 8 Days - 44mm NEW


The power reserve of eight days is part of the history of Officine Panerai. Between the end of the 1940s and the early 1950s Panerai used a 16-ligne Angelus calibre which would run for eight days without being wound: a very long power reserve to meet the requirements of the commandos of the Italian Navy, who during their operations had to be able to rely on an instrument of complete and enduring reliability.


This tradition lives again today with the P.5000 calibre, the new hand-wound movement with an eight-day power reserve which makes its debut in the new Luminor Marina 8 Days and Luminor Marina 8 Days Oro Rosso.
 
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The two new timepieces respect the classic aesthetics of the Luminor Marina, notable for the minimalist design of the case and dial. The case is 44mm in diameter and it is immediately recognisable by the bridge device with locking lever to protect the winding crown. It is available in AISI 316L stainless steel or in 5Npt red gold, a distinctive alloy with a high percentage of copper that gives it a particularly deep colour, and a certain amount of platinum that helps to prevent oxidation. Constructed of two superimposed discs ensuring the clearest legibility, the dial has large baton hour markers and figures, with the small seconds dial at 9 o’clock. It is black in the steel model and brown in the red gold one.

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The P.5000 hand-wound mechanical calibre, visible through the sapphire crystal window set in the back, has been completely developed and made in the Officine Panerai manufacture at Neuchâtel. With a diameter of 15¾ lignes and a thickness of 4.5 mm, it is very robustly constructed. A large plate with brushed finish and diamond-polished chamfering almost completely conceals the mechanism, while revealing the variable inertia balance which oscillates at a frequency of 21,600 vibrations per hour. The long running time is achieved by two spring barrels connected in series which store the power reserve of eight days.

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The Luminor Marina 8 Days (PAM00510) and the Luminor Marina 8 Days Oro Rosso (PAM00511) are part of the Historic Collection. They are completed by a strap of black leather in the case of the steel version, and brown alligator in the red gold version, with a buckle made of the same material as the case.

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Technical Specifications

Panerai - Luminor Marina 8 Days - 44mm PAM00510

Movement:
Hand-wound mechanical,  Panerai P.5000 calibre, executed entirely by Panerai, 15¾ lignes, 4.5 mm thick, 21 jewels, Glucydur® balance, 21,600 alternations/hour. KIF Parechoc® anti-shock device. Power reserve 8 days, two barrels. 127 components.
Functions:
Hours, minutes, small seconds.
Case:
Diameter 44 mm, AISI 316L polished steel.
Bezel: Polished steel.
Back: See-through sapphire crystal.
Device protecting the crown: (protected as a trademark) Brushed steel.
Dial:
Black with luminous Arabic numerals and hour markers. Seconds at 9 o’clock.
Crystal:
Sapphire, made of corundum, 2.5 mm thick. Anti-reflective coating.
Water-resistance:
30 bar (~ 300 metres).
Strap: 
PANERAI personalised leather strap and trapezoidal polished steel buckle. Supplied with a second interchangeable strap and a steel screwdriver.

Reference: PAM00510.

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Technical Specifications

Panerai - Luminor Marina 8 Days Oro Rosso - 44mm PAM00511

Movement: 
Hand-wound mechanical, Panerai P.5000 calibre, executed entirely by Panerai, 15¾ lignes, 4.5 mm thick, 21 jewels, Glucydur® balance, 21,600 alternations/hour. KIF Parechoc® anti-shock device. Power reserve 8 days, two barrels. 127 components.
Functions: Hours, minutes, small seconds.
Case: Diameter 44 mm, 18 ct. polished red gold.
Bezel: 18 ct. polished red gold.
Back: See-through sapphire crystal.
Device protecting the crown: (protected as a trademark) 18 ct. polished red gold.
Dial: Brown with luminous Arabic numerals and hour markers. Seconds at 9 o’clock.
Crystal: Sapphire, made of corundum, 2.5 mm thick. Anti-reflective coating.
Water-resistance:
30 bar (~ 300 metres).
Strap: 
PANERAI personalised alligator strap and 18 ct. polished red gold buckle.
Supplied with a second interchangeable strap and a steel screwdriver.

Reference: PAM00511.

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Panerai P.5000 calibre

A power reserve of eight days and hand-wound: the P.5000 calibre combines these two characteristics which are part of the history of Panerai watches since the first models created for the commandos of the Italian Navy.

With a diameter of 15¾ lignes (35.7 mm) and a thickness of 4.5 mm, the P.5000 calibre has 21 jewels, it is made up of 127 component parts and its balance wheel oscillates at a frequency of 3 Hz, equivalent to 21,600 vibrations/hour. Its original, very strong structure recalls that of old movements in which the mechanism was contained between two plates concealing most of the wheels and allowing only a few details to be seen, such as the balance cock and the intermediate wheel.

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The P.5000 calibre has a variable inertia balance, its period of oscillation being adjusted by turning the little timing screws on the outside of the balance wheel. Using this system the balance spring is free, without the curb pins which would otherwise be used to modify its active length. The bridge supporting the balance is fixed by two screws beneath which are threaded rings which turn in both directions, the purpose of which is to adjust the endshake of the balance staff pivots. This technical solution helps the escapement to continue running perfectly in the event of shocks.

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The long power reserve of 192 hours, that is 8 days, is achieved by coupling the two spring barrels with toothed rims in series. The twin assembly enables longer, thinner springs to be used, resulting in a longer duration and greater uniformity in delivering energy to the movement.

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Functions
Hours, minutes, small seconds
Technical specifications
Hand-wound
Power reserve 8 days
127 components
21 jewels
15¾ lignes
4.5mm thick
Two barrels
Oscillation frequency 3 Hz
KIF Parechoc® anti-shock device
*Officine Panerai is not the owner of the KIF Parechoc® and Glucydur® trademarks

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journal.hautehorlogerie.org
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Thursday, July 18, 2013

MAURICE LACROIX - Masterpiece Squelette Collection


MAURICE LACROIX - Masterpiece Squelette & Masterpiece Le Chronographe Squelette Limited Edition NEW


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Masterpiece Collection
Inspiration of contemporary mechanical watchmaking

Spearheading the Maurice Lacroix Manufacture, the Masterpiece collection strikes a clever balance between technology, tradition and modernist esthetics. It represents the brand’s expertise and, in particular, its mastery of retrograde complications, moon phases and chronographs, while creating a new image for the measurement of time.

The timepieces of this flagship collection meet the highest standards of mechanical watchmaking set out by renowned Manufactures. The cases, dials and movements attest to the quality of their design and execution down to the minutest detail, which in turn reflects the brand’s rigorous approach to research and development.

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The esthetics of the Masterpiece Collection have evolved towards a contemporary design inspired by the art of living. Featuring modern finishes and silhouettes, this collection promotes a new experience of watchmaking that is firmly attuned to today’s world. Combining expertise and daring style, these watches revisit tradition with simple elegance, avoiding pretense and excessive extravagance. Created for modern-day dandies for whom performance and etiquette are everyday necessities, these watches embody the identity of a young brand whose innovative edge has given rise to a solid reputation.

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This year the Masterpiece Squelette line is revisiting its iconic timepieces. Driven by movements which are entirely created and developed in-house, the Masterpiece Squelette and Masterpiece Le Chronographe Squelette watch designs strike a clever balance between traditional watchmaking skills, esthetics and high-tech craftsmanship to produce a finished object of uncompromising quality. These are truly striking watches.
 
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Their powerful design and functional precision firmly entrench them in the context of an urban and hedonistic 21st century that appreciates an elegant approach to timekeeping, thus satisfying the expectations of a sophisticated clientele that is ever more demanding.

Masterpiece Squelette

Unique, extraordinary and steadfast. The emphasis on the contemporary spirit of the new Masterpiece Squelette serves to highlight traditional watchmaking expertise and the application here of one of its most delicate techniques. The skeletonization of a movement is a painstaking operation that requires a very highest level of precision and dexterity from the craftsmen.

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The new Maurice Lacroix timepieces pay a vibrant tribute to the heritage of traditional watchmaking while creating a new identity for the skeleton watch and giving it a modern flair. The collection, which had already established its credentials in 2007 thanks to the avant-garde watch designs, is inspired by the latest technological innovations.

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The anatomy of the ML134 skeleton movement is proudly showcased through the sapphire crystal case back. Its components are manufactured and skeletonized with special care and attention, and each component is individually polished. The bridges and disks and the wheels and pinions of the mechanism are thus on full view, perfectly finished down to the smallest detail.

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With its almost sporty appeal, the Masterpiece Squelette opts for minimalist finish, revealing its bold esthetic.

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The bridges are treated with tantalum or gold colored PVD, coated with a satin finish that highlights their structured harmony and balance.

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TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS

Model: MASTERPIECE SQUELETTE

CASE
Stainless steel, Ø 43 mm, satin and polished finish
Domed sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating on both sides
Screwed case back with wide sapphire crystal
Water-resistant to 50 m (5 atm)
HANDS
Stamped hours and minutes hands with luminescent coating (blue emission)
Rhodium or black colored
STRAP/BRACELET
Genuine crocodile-skin strap, available in black (lined with black calfskin, black over-stitching) or brown (lined with brown calfskin, brown over-stitching)
BUCKLE
Folding steel clasp with push buttons
Satin and polished finish
MOVEMENT:
Mechanical, manually-wound caliber ML134
Functions:
    – Hours, Minutes, Seconds indicated by central hands
    – Small seconds through hand at 9 o’clock
Vibration: 18,000 vibrations per hour, 2.5 Hz
Power reserve: 45 hours
Jewels: 17
Adjustments: 5 positions when fully wound and 2 after 24 hours
Decoration: Grand colimaçon and sandblast on main bridge, in black or pink gold execution

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MASTERPIECE Le Chronographe Squelette

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An unusual design housed within a generously-proportioned case diameter of 45 mm. A skeleton watch that reveals the anatomy of time with its Manufacture movement, the ML106 caliber. The most recent version of the Masterpiece Le Chronographe Squelette commands respect. Its precise mechanics and updated appearance are the cornerstones of an undeniably contemporary collection.

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Protected by a sapphire crystal with an anti-reflective coating on both sides, the manually wound movement is proudly on display. Within this awe-inspiring labyrinth, the workings of the skeletal structure convey a sophisticated, extremely sporty image that is resolutely masculine.
 
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Hypnotized by the movement’s intricacy, the light bounces off the sharp, luminous hours and minutes hands before plunging into the depths of the skeleton. The multi-level effect is accentuated by the snailed architecture of the bottom plate, and the contrast between the black screws and the gemstones.

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The skeletonized openwork allows for the gears, the escapement, the balance and the column wheel, a feature of all the finest chronographs, to be admired. The counters, including a 60-minute counter, have hands shaped like skeletal disks which resemble the gears of the movement, while the time indicators are applied to the sapphire crystal dial.

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The structure of the Chronographe Squelette transforms inorganic matter into a living and exciting mechanism that displays each of its Manufacture-crafted components with pride. Four variations reveal their individual characters, whether classic or sporty, but always unique in their kind. The design of this metallic piece of watchmaking art is an appropriate icon for a brand that has dared to create an elegant yet edgy collection. Compromise does not form part of Maurice Lacroix's vocabulary.

The inspiration of contemporary mechanical watchmaking

An avant-garde design housed within a diameter of 45 mm. A skeleton that shapes time. A Manufacture –made mechanism, the ML 106-7 caliber. This new instrument for the measurement of short time intervals deserves the utmost respect. Its precise mechanics, for which a patent has been filed, and openwork design, which displays and thus authenticates the movement, are the cornerstones of an undeniably contemporary collection. Offering a new take on the skeleton watch, which had already been fully redesigned in 2007 with the Masterpiece Squelette, this model looks like being a worthy successor.

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Protected by a sapphire crystal with an anti-reflective coating on both sides, the manually wound movement is proudly on display. Within this maze, the workings of the skeletal structure enjoy a refined, streamlined effect and have been reduced to the bare essentials. Hypnotized by the movement’s intricacy, the light brushes past the dusky seconds hand, before bouncing off the sharp, luminous spurs of the hours and minutes hands. Having pierced through the slate-gray metallic sapphire dial, with its applied time indicators, it comes to rest on the chronograph counters, intrigued by the presence of a 60-minute counter.

 It then follows the movement of the counter’s hands which, shaped like skeletal discs, resemble the gears of the movement. It then ricochets off the snailed architecture and black screws of the bottom plate, before being drawn into the depths of this compelling time machine. Once inside, it tames the escapement, grazes across the golden gears, acquaints itself with the column wheel and caresses the rubies. Then, in a flash, it slips through the sapphire-crystal case-back, powered by the oscillations of a well-concealed, black balance that blends into its surroundings until almost invisible. The structure of the Le Chronographe Squelette transforms inorganic matter into a living and exciting mechanism that displays each of its Manufacture-crafted components with pride. The design of this metallic sculpture is an appropriate icon for a brand that has dared to create an elegant yet edgy collection most definitely anchored in the 21st century.
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MOVEMENT
 Chronograph equipped with a Maurice Lacroix Manufacture movement and its own lever assortment, gear-train and spring balance. Developed, manufactured and assembled in-house.

PRECISION ENHANCED BY INNOVATION / PATENT
60-minute counter: a rare function that is highly adapted to accurate time-keeping a more precise chronograph function (accurate to 1/5 second) is maintained in direct relation with the seconds hand for optimal precision. Maurice Lacroix patent on the lever (located under the hammer). In the event of impact, this technical innovation optimizes security during the interlocking or releasing phases, thus guaranteeing utmost precision. Chronograph-wheel enables a special toothed shape (300 teeth) to be used, which cannot be crafted using traditional fabrication techniques. It is another guarantee of utmost precision.

 FUNCTIONS
Hours and minutes indicated by central hands, small seconds at 9 o’clock, Chronograph seconds indicated by a central hand, 60-minute chronograph counter at 3 o’clock. Vibration18,000 vph, 2.5 Hz, Power reserve 42 hours, 22 Jewels, adjustment: 5 positions when fully wound and after 24 hours. Swan neck ensures smooth adjustment, diameter: 16’’½ (36.6 mm)

DECORATION
Hand-decorated bridges plated with black gold and featuring a large snail-like pattern ML wheel design matches the design of the hands and discs.
STRAP
Black hand-stitched porous crocodile-skin strap with large scales, black calfskin lining and matching stitching.
 CASE
Combination of polished sunray, circular- and vertical-brushed surfaces, steel case, 45 mm diameter, screwed steel bezel, domed sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating on both sides, Integrated shaped push-pieces, screw-down crown in ¼ turn, screwed case-back featuring large sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating, water-resistant to 100 m / 10 atm
DIAL
Sapphire-crystal dial with metal-coated treatment, dial with anti-reflective coating on both sides for a clearer view of the skeleton movement, slate-gray metal-coated treatment to reinforce the effect of the double counters and chronograph-seconds track function, white SLN (SuperLumiNova) spots on counters and second tracks.

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TECHNICAL INFORMATION

MASTERPIECE LE CHRONOGRAPHE SQUELETTE

CASE
■Stainless steel, Ø 45 mm, satin and polished finish
■Screw-down crown in ¼ turn
■Domed sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating on both sides
■Screwed case back with wide sapphire crystal
■Water-resistant to 100 m (10 atm)
HANDS
■Stamped hours and minutes hands with luminescent coating (blue emission)
■Central chronograph second with luminescent coating (blue emission)
■Small seconds and 60-minute counter disc-hands with luminescent coating (blue emission)
■Rhodium movement execution:
    – All hands black gold plated
■Ruthenium movement execution:
    – Black gold plated hours, minutes and small seconds hands
    – Red colored chronograph central seconds and 60-minute hands
■Blue nickel movement execution:
   – All hands rhodium plated
■Pink gold movement execution:
  – All hands pink gold plated except chronograph central seconds in black gold
DIAL
■Sapphire-crystal dial with metal-coated treatment
■Anti-reflective coating on both sides for a clearer view of the skeleton movement
■Luminescent spots on counters and second tracks (blue emission)
STRAP/BRACELET
■Rhodium movement execution:
    – Genuine black alligator-skin strap, lined with black calfskin
    – Black over-stitching
■Ruthenium movement execution:
    – Genuine black alligator-skin strap, lined with black calfskin
    – Contrasting red over-stitching
■Blue nickel movement execution:
    – Genuine black alligator-skin strap, lined with black calfskin
    – Contrasting blue over-stitching
■Pink gold movement execution:
    – Genuine black alligator-skin strap, lined with black calfskin
    – Brown over-stitching
BUCKLE
■Rhodium, blue nickel and pink gold movement executions:
    – Folding steel clasp with push buttons
    – Satin and polished finish
■Ruthenium movement execution:
    – Standard buckle with full black PVD coating.
    – Satin and polished finish
MOVEMENT
Mechanical, manually-wound caliber ML106
■Functions:
    – Hours, Minutes, Seconds indicated by central hands
    – Small seconds at 9 o’clock
    – Chronograph seconds indicated by a central hand
    – 60-minute chronograph counter at 3 o’clock
■Vibration: 18,000 vibrations per hour, 2.5 Hz
■Power reserve: 42 hours
■Jewels: 22
■Adjustments: 5 positions when fully wound and 2 after 24 hours
■Decorations: Hand-decorated bridges plated with rhodium, ruthenium (black), blue nickel or pink gold. Large snail-like pattern.

Limited Edition of 4 x 99 pieces.


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 Press Releases PDF - Masterpiece Le Chronographe Squelette Limited Edition
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Maurice Lacroix S. A.
Thurgauerstrasse 40
CH-8050 Zürich
Phone +41 (0)44 209 11 11
Fax +41 (0)44 209 12 52
info@mauricelacroix.com
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