BREGUET – MARINE Equation Marchante 5887

BREGUET – MARINE Équation Marchante 5887 - Platinum & Gold Version

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Throughout his career, A.-L. Breguet consistently demonstrated his exceptional mastery of time measurement. His strong involvement and his revolutionary developments earned him significant recognition and numerous honours.

Renowned the length and breadth of Europe, Breguet found a particularly active admirer in Louis XVIII, king of France. In 1814, the latter appointed him a member of the Bureau des longitudes in Paris.

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This body created in 1795 by the National Convention was dedicated to the advancement of the various branches of astronomy and their applications to geography, navigation and geodesy (the measurement and understanding of Earth’s physical properties). Its tasks included the annual publication of reference documents such as astronomical ephemerides.

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The Bureau des longitudes was a prestigious organisation whose 20 or so members included geometers, astronomers, seafarers and associate artists. The only representative of his profession that was eminently useful to physicists and navigators, Breguet became the horological authority, notably for the calculation of longitudes at sea. As an extension of this distinction, through an ordinance issued on October 27th 1815, Louis XVIII awarded A.-L. Breguet the official title of chronometer maker to the French Royal Navy.

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BREGUET simple watch with equation of time N°3862

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This was the most prestigious title a horologist could hope to receive, given that the very concept of marine chronometry implied scientific knowledge. It also involved playing a crucial role for the country, as marine chronometers were of capital importance for fleets by making it possible to calculate ships’ positions at sea.

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BREGUET – Marine chronometer N°3196 sold January 14, 1822 to the French Navy

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Following in the wake of this unique heritage, the House of Breguet now launches a worldwide exclusive model named the Marine Équation Marchante 5887. This “Grande Complication” marks the start of a new era for the contemporary Marine collection.

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The equation of time is one of the rarest and most fascinating horological complications. It serves to display the difference between mean solar time, corresponding to civil or standard hours and minutes, and true solar time, meaning the actual solar hours and minutes.

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Since , the sun has been used as the basis of time. Nonetheless, the visible motion of the sun – the true solar time indicated on sundials – is irregular. With the improvement of timekeeping precision, watches and clocks became the basis of time and true solar time was replaced by mean solar time, within which each day has the same duration of exactly 24 hours.

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 BREGUET – Sketches illustrating the installation of Marine chronometers aboard ships
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Mean solar time may show a discrepancy with true solar time ranging from minus 16 minutes to plus 14 minutes. On just four days a year, the two times are exactly the same. Given that the sun’s various positions in the sky are reproduced in an identical manner on the same dates, watchmakers can “program” them by means of a special cam.

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The latter is shaped like a figure 8 and mechanically reproduces the path of the sun’s successive positions, called an analemma curve. Requiring extremely accurate execution, the cam is coupled with a feeler-spindle that drives an equation lever serving to indicate the difference between civil time and solar time (-16 to +14 minutes). This read-off is generally provided on a sector or subdial. It is then up to the user to mentally add or subtract the difference displayed in relation to mean time in order to calculate true solar time. The new Marine Équation Marchante from Breguet supersedes this principle. It simultaneously indicates civil time and true time by means of two separate minutes hands. The running solar hand, adorned with a facetted golden sun, provides a direct reading of solar time minutes that is both quicker and more user-friendly.

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This apparently simplicity conceals an arduous construction process that few watchmakers are capable of achieving. The solar minutes hand has to meet two imperative demands: it must sweep in a conventional way around the dial, like the civil minutes hand, while also daily moving away from the latter by a distance that varies in accordance with the analemma curve, in order to display the equation.  

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Breguet was able to accomplish this by equipping its running solar hand with a differential gear powered by two rotation sources operating entirely independently: the rotation of civil minutes, and that controlled by the lever in contact with the equation of time cam, which makes one full turn per year. Breguet has developed an extremely slim equation cam borne by a transparent sapphire disc also serving to correct the equation of time by month.

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The complexity that the running equation of time brings to this model is naturally complemented on this “Grande Complication” by a perpetual calendar. Two apertures – one between 10 and 11 o’clock and the other between 1 and 2 o’clock – respectively display the days of the week as well as the months and the leap-year cycle. The date appears inside the chapter ring by means of a retrograde hand tipped with an anchor motif and sweeping across an arc running from 9 to 3 o’clock. The dial layout of the information has been carefully designed to ensure simple and intuitive linear reading, along with impeccable visual appeal.

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Based on the self-winding 581DR calibre, the new Marine Équation Marchante by Breguet also flaunts a third complication that is noteworthy in its own right: a 60-second tourbillon with a titanium carriage housing a Breguet balance with a silicon balance spring. This innovative characteristic notably enables the balance wheel to achieve a 4Hz frequency, while maintaining a particularly comfortable power reserve for a self-winding model.  This 80-hour autonomy is displayed through an aperture between 7 and 9 o’clock.

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The ingenuity of this spectacular model is accentuated by the precious expertise of the artisans exercising their skills within the House of Breguet. The front dial features two types of engine-turning, including a “wave” pattern specifically developed for this new creation. The inscription “Marine royale” is engraved on the tourbillon bar, whose execution naturally draws the gaze.

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Visible through a sapphire caseback, the bridges have been delicately chased to depict in meticulous detail the Royal Louis, a first rank vessel in the French Royal Navy. The barrel is adorned with a windrose motif, in reference to astronomical navigation. Thanks to the carefully chosen positioning of the oscillating weight on the rim of the calibre, the self-winding movement deploys the full splendour of its decoration.

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A truly magnificent timepiece, the new Marine Équation Marchante by Breguet sets the tone. It features new aesthetic signature codes giving it a modern and dynamic appearance: central lugs combining polished and satin-brushed surfaces; more open fluting, with visible flanks; a crown topped with a polished “B” against a sandblasted background; as well as a crown adorned with a chamfered and satin-brushed wave motif.

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Rose Gold. Reference 5887BR/12/9WV
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This “Grande Complication” comes with a 43.9mm-diameter case in rose gold or platinum. The rose gold version frames a silvered dial and an anthracite movement, while the platinum interpretation has a blue dial and a rhodium-plated movement. Elegance, legibility and aesthetic balance are the keynote features of these two equally sumptuous models.

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Platinum Reference. 5887PT/Y2/9WV
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SPECIFICATIONS OF THE WATCH

Reference. 5887PT/Y2/9WV

Case
Case in 950 platinum with delicately fluted caseband.
Sapphire-crystal caseback. 43.9mm diameter.
Water-resistant to 10 bar (100m).
Dial
Blue dial in gold, engine-turned.
Individually numbered and signed Breguet.
Hours chapter with Roman numerals and luminescent dots.
Breguet facetted hands in 18k gold with luminescent material.

• Running solar hand with facetted golden sun.
• Days of the week in an aperture between 10 and 11 o’clock.
• Months and leap-year cycle in an aperture between 1 and 2 o’clock.
• Retrograde dates indication on an arc running from 9 to 3 o’clock.
• Power reserve in an aperture between 7 and 9 o’clock.

Movement
Self-winding movement with running equation of time, perpetual calendar,
tourbillon and 80-hour power reserve, Cal. 581DPE.
Numbered and signed Breguet.
Small seconds and equation of time cam on the tourbillon axis.
16¾ lignes. 57 jewels.
Silicon escapement wheel and inverted lateral lever with silicon horns.
Silicon balance spring.
Balance frequency 4Hz.
Adjusted in 6 positions.
Strap
Alligator leather strap with gold folding clasp.

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Available:
Also available in 18k rose gold with dial in silvered gold and anthracite movement:
Reference 5887BR/12/9WV

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URWERK – UR-210 “Amadeus”

URWERK – UR-210 “Amadeus” Titanium and Steel

A flamboyant anachronism

For its 20th anniversary, URWERK embarks on a retro-futuristic experiment. Far from being an exercise in nostalgia, the new watch makes the sort of contrary and provocative statement one has come to expect from a watchmaker that disdains the ordinary. The experiment centres on one of URWERK’s flagship models, a UR-210. Flung into a temporal particle accelerator, this futuristic watch collides with the past to emerge transfigured as a flamboyant anachronism.

“An 18th-century wall clock in the pure baroque style has pride of place in the workshops. It was one of the first collector’s pieces my father gave me — an imposing, massive work of art with elaborate gilding. For me its attraction lies in its extravagance, because extremes appeal to me,” declares watchmaker Felix Baumgartner,URWERK’s  co-founder.

The memories of these first horological infatuations are certainly what inspired the new UR-210  Amadeus – Amadeus referring of course to the Great Wolfgang. “Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart was certainly a pioneer of the Punk subculture” says Felix Baumgartner. “One should read his biography. He was a rebel and URWERK for sure share the spirit.”

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For this retro-futuristic move, the UR-210 was transformed by the expert hands of the talented craftsman, Florian Güllert. Baroque is an apt description of this new creation. “The decoration is very post-Renaissance 17th-century, but on a determinedly contemporary structure,” comments Florian. “The swirling pattern of acanthus leaves is most suitable for this style, contrasting with the angular look of the watch. We have merged the case, the crown protection and the bracelet into one unit to create an exceptional piece. I was given the entire watch to work on and I took it over to produce a design in steel.”

This painstaking work took more than 260 hours to complete. Ensuring the continuity of the design was the main objective and the greatest difficulty for the engraver. “It’s a work of many aspects. The themes must interconnect and complement one another without being superfluous. This is certainly one of the creations of which I am most proud,” concludes Florian.

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For Martin Frei, this collision between the future and the past underlines his vision of a fluid frontier between time and space. “AtURWERK, we have evolved a strikingly contemporary notion of indicating the time, yet it is based on a 17th-century concept. I see this as a continuum rather than a contradiction, in a timeless and universal dimension of ideas and thoughts. Since our beginnings, I have always questioned the idea of delineated periods of time. Where some people might see limits and rigid classifications, I see intangible bridges and links in an infinite flow.”

The UR-210’s satellite complication with retrograde minute is both highly original and totally explosive. The principal feature is a high-tech, oversized, three-dimensional retrograde minute hand. Its function is to enclose the hour satellite and indicate the time as it transverses the 0-to-60-minute scale.

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This one-hour journey through time, tracing an arc of 120°, is smooth and fluid. But the true nature of the piece is revealed at the end of the 59th minute. Then a sharp distinct “click” signals the return of the minute hand to its starting point. In less than 0.1 of a second the hand flies back to dock with the next hour satellite. This high-speed retrograde system is based on three key elements:

• A central axis set in ruby bearings provides excellent stability for the satellite/retrograde complication. A cylindrical marine chronometer type spring runs vertically around the axis and generates the optimal tension required for the retrograde minutes flyback.

• A minute hand, which also forms a frame for the hour satellites, displays the time in an extraordinary way. Milled from aluminum to exacting tolerances of approximately 3 microns, the whole structure has a total weight of just 0.302g and is counter balanced by a brass weight. This three-dimensional cage offers rigidity as it transfers energy from the cylindrical flyback spring in the top center of the carrousel to the double-star gear underneath.

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• A double coaxial star-shaped cam regulates the retrograde mechanism through its gearing and its rotation defines the trajectory of the minute hand. When the minute hand reaches 60, the double star trips a (one of three) hockey stick shaped spring under the mechanism, which liberates the minute to fly back to the next hour satellite at 0-minutes.

The dial of the UR-210S features a traditional power reserve indication at one o’clock. In a near mirror image at 11 o’clock we find a similar indication. No, it isn’t a duplicate fail-safe, but something much more important which deserves our full attention, because it is actually a world-first complication that indicates winding efficiency over the last two hours.

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The rotor will then convert the slightest movement into stored energy. In this configuration, a turbine connected to the rotor provides smooth, unimpeded power. But if you are more active, then that may provide more power than required and unnecessarily wear the mechanism. In that case, you would position the winding efficiency selector to “REDUCED” to engage the rotor damping system. An air turbine compressor mounted on ruby bearings spins and creates internal resistance – enough friction to slow down or dampen the automatic winding rotor. In “STOP” mode, the automatic winding system is disabled completely and the UR-210 runs off reserve power and may require manual winding.

Has your recent activity been enough to replenish your UR-210’s energy levels? If yes, the winding efficiency indicator will point emphatically to the green zone. If not, you have been using more energy than you are generating, and the winding efficiency indicator will point to the red zone.

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Armed with knowledge of both winding efficiency and available power reserve, you are then able to intervene. If your UR-210 indicates an insufficient supply of energy, you can position the winding efficiency selector at the back of the watch to “FULL”.

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Technical Specifications

Model: – UR-210 “Amadeus”   

Case
Material:    Titanium and steel
Dimensions:    Width 43.8mm, length 53.6mm, thickness 17.8mm
Glasses:    Sapphire crystal
Water resistance:    30m/100’/3ATM
Surface finishes:    Satin finish; bead-blasted
Strap:    Metal bracelet with deployment clasp developed by Maspoli for URWERK
Movement
Caliber:  UR-7.10
Jewels:    51
Escapement:    Swiss lever
Balance    Monometallic
Frequency:    28,800v/h, 4Hz
Balance spring:    Flat
Power source:    Single mainspring barrel
Power reserve:    39 hours
Winding system:    Self-winding coupled to turbines
Materials
Plate in ARCAP P40 rhodium coated; 3D minute hand in aluminum with brass counterweight; central cylindrical spiral in spring-steel; hour satellites in aluminum; central carrousel and screws in Titanium Grade 5
Surface finishes:
Circular graining, sandblasted, circular and straight satin-finished plate; satin-finished and diamond-polished satellites; beveled and polished screw heads

Indications
Patented revolving satellite complication with wandering hour and three-dimensional retrograde minute hand; power reserve indicator; patented winding efficiency indicator
Super-LumiNova treatment on markers, dials, indexes, hands, and satellites

Controls
Two-position winding crown with crown protector
On the back: winding efficiency selector

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Press Release - 2017 
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Media contact:
Ms Yacine Sar
Telephone: +41 22 900 2027
Mobile : +41 79 834 46 65
press@urwerk.com
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JACOB & Co. – Opera by Jacob&Co.Tourbillon Edition

JACOB & Co. – Opera by Jacob&Co. Tri-Axial Tourbillon Black DLC Titanium 47mm Edition

A MECHANICAL PLAY CAPTIVATING SENSES

Baselworld 2017

World premiere combination of two traditional Swiss crafts is used in a timepiece: a mechanical music box basting 2 cylinders and combs and an exclusive Jacob & Co. JCFM02 manual-winding caliber.

Jacob & Co. once again demonstrates its irrepressible ability to surprise as it launches the new Opera Musical Watch. In this new collection, two cylinders and combs are mounted on the movement and rotate around the dial each time they play their melody, together with a triple-axis tourbillon and the subsidiary hour and minute dial.

Swiss Music Box Heritage

The making of music boxes had been, and still is, a traditional Swiss craft for hundreds of years. In the Opera, Jacob & Co. has combined this artisanal work with high watchmaking for the very first time incorporating two cylinders and combs resulting in 120 notes melody providing a never heard before sound in a musical watch.

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Using a sophisticated one-piece sapphire crystal that encircles the whole timepiece, the entire workings of the Opera are put on display for all to see and it also allows the movement to deliver the purest sound.

Unique complication

The two cylinders are driven by a central flywheel – a real challenge for the movement, due to the weight of the cylinders. A pusher located at 2 o’clock activates the rotation of the entire movement and simultaneously plays the 120 notes melody. Each note is played as the tiny pins on the cylinder make contact with the individual teeth of the comb. As the cylinders turn to play the melody, the entire assembly on which they are fixed, including the Triple Axis tourbillon and the hour and minute dial, rotates 120 degrees around the dial.

The tourbillon rotates around its inner cage once in 40 seconds, its intermediates cage rotates in 3 minutes and its outer cage rotates in 8 minutes.

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Finally, in order to display the time with 12 o’clock always in the 12 o’clock position, a patented differential gear system is used; both the dial and the hands have to turn counter-clockwise

The manually wound calibre JCFM02 has been developed specifically for this complication, using titanium components for excellent sound propagation. The movement, which comprises 650 components, fits into a diameter of just 43mm. A pusher based at 2 o’clock on the case middle triggers the melody and thus the rotation of the movement. Regardless of whether or not the melody is playing, the triple-axis tourbillon dances its incessant mechanical ballet.

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The Jacob & Co. Opera Musical Watch comes in two different versions, one 18-piece limited edition that is minimalist in its presentation with black and gold highend finishes, showing the mechanical workings. The other, unique piece version allows decorations on the cylinders. Indeed, the piece depicts a romantic gala night with an orchestra.

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TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS

Collection: Grand complication

Model: Opera by Jacob&Co.

Ref.: OP100.21.AD.AA.A

Movement
Caliber: Exclusive Jacob & Co. manual-winding JCFM02
Diameter: 43mm;
Height: 17.2mm (maximum height at center of movement);
Material: Steel, brass, platinum and titanium
Components: 646;
Functions
Subsidiary hour and minute dial; Triple-axis gravitational tourbillon cage rotating about

• Its own axis once in 40 seconds,
• Its second axis every 3 minutes
• Its third axis every 8 minute.

Music upon demand with musical melody activated by
pusher at 2 o’clock by means of two rotating cylinders.  
120° movement rotation in 20 seconds.
Power Reserve: 72-Hours;
Frequency: 21’600 vib/h (3 Hz);
Jewels: 52
System: Triple Axis Tourbillon with Carillon
Finishing
Bridges and plates:
Black PVD finish; Barrels: Circular graining; Cylinders: rose gold plated; Pin-barrel

Case
Material: Titanium Black PVD and Sapphire;
Diameter: 47mm;
Thickness: 20mm;
Case Back: Black PVD and Rose gold 18K;
Bows: Winding and Time-Setting via two Bows in the Case Back;
Crystal: Unique Domed Sapphire with Double Anti-Reflective Treatment;
Water resistance: 3 atm
Dial and hands 
Dial: Blued sapphire dial
Gold-plated sculpture an OCTOPUS
Hands: Hand-finished in rose gold
Strap 
Rubber blue
Buckle: Sapphire crystal

Limited Edition: 18 Piece

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For media inquiries please contact:
Jacob & Co. Corporate Office
susan@jacobandco.com
+1.212.719.5887
Europe & Trade Press
press.gva@jacobandco.com
+41.22.310.6962
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SINN – 6200 WG MEISTERBUND I White Gold Limited Edition

SINN – 6200 WG MEISTERBUND I White Gold Limited Edition

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The 55-piece limited-edition 

watch with hand-wound calibre

• Sinn Spezialuhren & UWD & SUG = Meisterbund
• Limited to 55 pieces
• Case made of 18-carat White gold, polished/satinised
• Fine, exquisitely decorated hand-wound calibre UWD 33.1
• Second stop function
• Flying spring barrel
• Guilloché, anthracite electroplated dial
• Attached appliqués
• Sapphire crystal glass on both sides
• Pressure-resistant to 10 bar
• Low pressure resistant

Baselworld 2017

The wonderful, 55-piece limited-edition 6200 WG Meisterbund I seamlessly follows on from the hugely successful Rose Gold 6200 Meisterbund I – in many ways an extraordinary watch that set several milestones. These two masterpieces mark the celebration of the company’s 55th anniversary in 2016.

“Scorn not the Masters, I bid you, and honour their art!”

This is a passage taken from the final address of Hans Sachs in the well-known opera The Mastersingers of Nuremberg. Three “masters of their trade” have also come together for the 6200 WG Meisterbund I. For the “Meisterbund” edition is the result of a collaboration between Uhren-Werke-Dresden (UWD), Sächsische Uhrentechnologie GmbH (SUG) from Glashütte and Sinn Spezialuhren.

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SUG is responsible for building and manufacturing the case made of 18-carat white gold, which proudly bears the “MEISTERBUND” engraving on the side – a distinguishing feature of our Meisterbund series.

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Sinn Spezialuhren shapes the “face” of the 6200 WG Meisterbund I, which is in keeping with our traditional masterpieces, thanks to a guilloché and anthracite electroplated dial, while being suitable for everyday use. The 6200 WG Meisterbund I is thus also pressureresistant up to 10 bar and resistant to low pressure. UWD is responsible for manufacturing the high-quality hand-wound calibre UWD 33.1, which proved hugely successful in the rose gold edition, where it was used for the first time in series production.

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The fact that the watch is built and produced in Germany and that all key watch components are made in Germany is what truly makes the “Meisterbund” edition something special. We are proud of the fact that the “Made in Germany” seal of quality is held in particularly high regard amongst many watch experts. This confirms that we were right to focus on harnessing the innovative strength and expertise of German craftsmanship and engineering to create the “Meisterbund” edition.

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High-quality hand-wound calibre UWD 33.1

UWD’s hand-wound calibre UWD 33.1 made of nickel silver with a spring barrel supported on one side, also referred as flying spring barrel, has a 55-hour power reserve. The movement can be adjusted by shifting the eccentric weights in the balance system. This also offsets the imbalance in the complete oscillating system of the watch.

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The regulator system, on the other hand, provides a convenient range of capabilities for further precision adjustment and beat setting. Also noteworthy is the fact that all parts of the movement have a high-quality finish. Plates and cocks are characterised by matte, diamond-planed edges.

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The regulator system of the hand-wound calibre UWD 33.1:
In accordance with the functional principle of a swan-neck regulator, this regulator system enables zero-play precision adjustment of the watch. The six eccentric weights on the balance wheel for precisely balancing the balance system are also clearly visible.

The centrepiece is the fine, exquisitely decorated hand-wound calibre UWD 33.1 made of nickel silver – a contemporary technical interpretation of a design and development evoking a traditional sense of quality. With a flying barrel supported on one side, it is a prime example of precision and functional robustness while also expressing watchmaking craftsmanship at its best.

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The reserve can be adjusted by shifting the eccentric weights in the balance system. This also offsets the imbalance in the complete oscillating system of the watch. The regulator system, on the other hand, provides a convenient means of precision adjustment and beat setting adjustment. Also noteworthy is the fact that all parts of the movement are exquisitely decorated. Plates and cocks are characterised by matte, diamond-planed edges.

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The combination of matte and polished surfaces gives the movement an exquisite feel, while the diamond profiles underscore the high level of quality. The impression of a consistently designed watch is completed by the fact that the manufactured movement, made of nickel silver and with a diameter of 33 mm, so harmoniously fits into the white gold case which has a diameter of 40 mm.

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In terms of style and design, the 6200 WG Meisterbund I lives up to its name. It is thus a worthy successor, skilfully continuing our Meisterbund series in the spirit of traditional watchmaking craftsmanship.

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Technical details

Mechanical Movement
• Manufaktur-hand-wound movement UWD 33.1
• Flying spring barrel
• Balance system with six eccentric weights
• Regulator system enables zero-play precision adjustment
• 19 bearing jewels
• 21,600 semi-oscillations per hour
• Second stop function for accurate time adjustment
• Anti-magnetic as per DIN 8309
Case
• Case made of 18-carat White Gold, polished / satinized
• Sapphire crystal glass in front, anti-reflective on both sides
• Transparent case back made of sapphire crystal glass, anti-reflective on the interior
• Case back screw-fastened
• Meet the technical requirements for waterproofness, as set out in standard DIN 8310
• Pressure-resistant up to 10 bar
• Low pressure resistant
Functions
• Hours, minutes, subsidiary seconds
SINN Technologies
• Crown with D3-System
Dimensions and Weight
• Case diameter: 40 mm
• Band lug width: 20 mm
• Case thickness: 9.3 mm
Dial and Hands
• Guilloché, anthracite electroplated dial
• Attached appliqués
Warranty
    2 years

Limited edition to 55 units

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SINN  SPEZIALUHREN  GMBH
Im Füldchen 5–7 • 60489 Frankfurt am Main
• Tel. +49 (0)69 / 97 84 14-0
• Fax +49 (0)69 / 97 84 14-201
• info@sinn.de
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