Monday, February 27, 2017

Franck Muller – Vanguard™ V45 Skeleton SAPPHIRE Tourbillon



















Franck MullerVANGUARDV45 Skeleton SAPPHIRE Tourbillon


In-house Mechanical SAPPHIRE Treasure

While keeping its very strong DNA, the newly born Vanguard™ 60 hour power reserve skeleton provides a mesmerising view on an in-house crafted mechanical treasure. The bridges hand-chamfered to perfection reveal not only the manufactured movement of the watch but also a second counter at 6 o’clock. The architectural and geometric open worked bridges have been designed for watch lovers to admire the mechanism in its entirety.

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Revealing the soul of its mechanism through the transparency of its sapphire case, the new Vanguard™ skeleton sapphire showcases its movement to the fullest. Innovation and expertise coupled with Haute Horlogerie traditions has enabled Franck Muller® to design this one-of-a-kind timepiece, achieving an unprecedented achievement. Manufacturing a sapphire watchcases of this kind requires a high degree of hand-finishing, high expertise and a unique savoir-faire.

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The case, bezel and back this timepiece are milled from a single block of sapphire. It takes two months to machine the case and then two more to accomplish the polishing. The high-tech transparent tonneau watchcase is emphasized by the architectural design of the white PVD skeleton dial, hand-chamfered to perfection.

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The perfectly integrated transparent strap attached to the glass case is totally invisible so that the skin of the wrist can be seen through it. Taking a new direction with its minimalist style, the Vanguard skeleton sapphire offers a full visual access to its in-house manufactured movement.

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Technical details

Model: VANGUARDV45 Skeleton SAPPHIRE

Ref. V 45 T SQT SAPPHIRE

Movement
Calibre FM 2001
Manually wound mechanical movement
Dimensions of Movement: 21.90 x 29.40 and Height: 5.30 mm
Power Reserve: 60 hours
Frequency: 18’000 vibrations/ hour
Number of Components: 193
Number of Jewels: 21

Movement decoration: Satin-brushed, hand-chamfered
Functions
Winding crown in 2 positions
Case
Sapphire
Dimensions: 44.00 mm X 53.70 mm X 12.80 mm
Water-resistance: 3 ATM
Dial
White PVD openwork dial 
Display: Hours and minutes
Strap
White Alligator strap

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Saturday, February 25, 2017

VACHERON CONSTANTIN – Les Cabinotiers Celestia Astronomical Grand Complication 3600


VACHERON CONSTANTINLes Cabinotiers Celestia Astronomical Grand Complication 3600 Tourbillon Galaxy White Gold 45mm

Les Cabinotiers Celestia Astronomical 
Grand Complication 3600

At SIHH 2017 luxury watch fair, Vacheron Constantin have unveiled one of the most complicated mechanical wristwatches of modern era: the Les Cabinotiers Celestia Astronomical Grand Complication 3600. Boasting 23 horological complications including astronomical functions, Tourbillon with three-week power reserve, solar time and running equation of time, this grand complication watch is a result of five years of development exclusively supervised by a dedicated master-watchmaker.

The Fine Watchmaking firmament 
welcomes a bright new star:

A shining new addition to the watchmaking galaxy SIHH 2017

  • One model / five years of development from scratch / one dedicated master-watchmaker
  • Worthwhile astronomical functions / 23 horological complications / new integrated movement
  • Tropical gear train for solar time and running equation of time
  • Tourbillon with three-week power reserve
  • Hallmark of Geneva certification
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The unique twin-dial Celestia Astronomical Grand Complication 3600 watch combines astronomy and the watchmaking art in a celestial white gold composition. Twenty-three essentially astronomical complications appear on the front and back dials of the watch, providing a reading of time in three modes – civil, solar and sidereal – each driven by its own gear train. Embodying the height of technical sophistication, its new fully integrated 514-part caliber measures a mere 8.7 mm thick, while six barrels guarantee three full weeks of autonomy.

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Pursuing the path traced by the majestic Reference 57260 – the world’s most complicated watch equipped with 57 complications created for the 260th anniversary of the Manufacture – Vacheron Constantin now presents Les Cabinotiers Celestia Astronomical Grand Complication 3600. Featuring an all- new construction, this mechanical masterpiece follows in the eminent wake of a unique creation representing a milestone in the history of mechanical horology and laying a veritable cornerstone for new watchmaking feats by Vacheron Constantin.

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Five years of development starting from a blank page, a dedicated master-watchmaker, along with two years of design, have given life to the one-of-a-kind Les Cabinotiers Celestia Astronomical Grand Complication 3600, displaying 23 complications on its twin dials. This Haute Horlogerie ‘heavenly phenomenon’ is one of the most complex ever made and heir to a proud lineage of astronomical timepieces. Astronomy, the study of celestial objects, is closely bound up with horology. The former seeks to explain the origins, evolution and properties of heavenly bodies. The latter strives to capture and mechanically express the course of time and its perpetual dance with the stars – a challenge successfully met in this watch providing a combined display of civil, solar and sidereal times by means of three separate gear trains.

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A remarkable feat of miniaturisation and engineering, the new Vacheron Constantin Caliber 3600 – an integrated movement comprising 514-part while measuring just 8.7mm thick – controls more than 20 functions and has a three-week power reserve. It is yet another vivid demonstration of the technical expertise cultivated by the Maison in the field of astronomical complications.

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A remarkable feat of miniaturisation and engineering, the new Vacheron Constantin Caliber 3600 – an integrated movement comprising 514-part while measuring just 8.7 mm thick – controls more than 20 functions and has a three- week power reserve. It is yet another vivid demonstration of the technical expertise cultivated by the Maison in the field of astronomical complications. This expertise dates back to the late 19th century, with pocket-watches featuring a perpetual calendar, moon phases and sidereal time; and later, in 1914, equipped with a running equation of time display. More recent exceptional models – such as the Tour de l’Île (16 complications) presented in 2005 and Reference 57260 (the world’s most complicated watch, 57 complications) in 2015 – bear further eloquent testimony to this path marked by remarkable achievements.

A waltz in triple – civil, solar and sidereal – time


Epitomising the peak of horological mastery, this unique timepiece equipped with a wealth of astronomical complications united within an incredibly small area represents an impressive sum of knowledge, calculations and fine adjustments. Its captivating functions notably feature the triple-time civil, solar and sidereal displays powered by three distinct gear trains, including a “tropical” gear train dedicated to all the solar functions.

Swept over by a pair of white gold open-tipped hands, civil (or standard) time is read off in the traditional manner on the front dial. Civil time is a universally recognised mean time based on the fictional principle that the Sun moves around the equator at a constant speed throughout the year, averaging one full turn every 24 hours. This convenient and conventional choice divides the year into 365.25 days, each day into 24 hours and each hour into 60 minutes.

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True solar time is on the other hand based on the visible trajectory of the Sun in the course of the day, expressed through its hour angle measured at a given place and time. Depending on the day of the year, the difference between solar time and mean time ranges from +14 to -16 minutes, with the two exactly coinciding only four times a year. This discrepancy is due to the fact that the Earth’s orbit is elliptical (and not round); that the Sun is not in the centre of this ellipse; that the Earth does not follow this orbit at a constant speed; and lastly that the Earth’s rotation axis is tilted in relation to the plane of its orbit.

Head in the stars

Thirdly, sidereal time is read off on the back of the watch. Technically regarded as an astronomical time scale based on the Earth’s rate of rotation measured with respect to the apparent motion of the ‘fixed’ stars as observed from a local meridian, sidereal time differs from mean time by approximately four minutes per day, meaning that 24 sidereal hours correspond to 23 hours, 56 minutes and 4 seconds of civil time. Sidereal hours and minutes are indicated in an original and refined way by means of two superimposed sapphire discs.

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The lower one forming the background features the celestial dome, the celestial time minute-track and the four cardinal points; while the second one placed on top bears the constellations, the projections of the equator (white circle) and the ecliptic (red circle) – the latter depicting the Sun’s annual trajectory as seen from Earth. This Lambert projection is an authentic scientific map corresponding to the constellations in the Northern Hemisphere.

Running equation of time on tropical gear train

To measure and display the difference between civil and solar time, this timepiece is equipped with a complex and refined equation of time mechanism. Moreover, the latter is also a ‘running’ equation of time, a kind rarely seen in wristwatches and indicating solar time by means of an additional coaxial pink gold minutes hand adorned with a cut- out sun. The equation of time is generally displayed by a hand moving across an auxiliary sector with a scale running from +14 to -16 minutes and requiring a bit of mental arithmetic to check solar time.


The running equation of time is far more complex to create and enables instant readings of solar and civil times. To ensure exactitude and precision, Vacheron Constantin has adjusted it to a tropical gear train simulating the tropical year, meaning the time the Earth takes to make a full turn around the Sun and corresponding to 365.2421898 days.

Time and tides

This unique creation features a doubled-sided display of 23 complications. On the front, the slate grey dial reveals 15 artfully arranged complications. As well as readings of civil and solar time (running equation of time) by three coaxial hands, it also has a perpetual calendar with a precision moon phase as well as a remarkable mareoscope composed of a tide level indicator and a 3D depiction of the Earth-Moon-Sun alignment. Tides are governed by physical laws and depend on the gravitational attraction and centrifugal forces of these three heavenly bodies.


Representing a ‘memory’ of time yet to come, a perpetual calendar is able to keep track of the irregularities of the Gregorian calendar with no need for any intervention other than a date change every 400 years. It displays the day of the week, the month and the leap-year cycle through apertures, while pointing to the date with a serpentine hand.


The fascinatingly elegant precision moon-phase display requires a one-day correction only once in 122 years and is read off by means of two superimposed discs bearing a laser- engraved true image of the full moon, a day/night indication and the age of the moon – meaning the number of days elapsed since the last full moon.

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These precious functions are complemented by sunrise and sunset times, pointed two by slim hands moving over two graduated scales, as well as the length of day and night appearing on a special gauge at 6 o’clock. This set of complications that occur but rarely in the Fine Watchmaking sky is further enriched by other captivating indications arranged in a semi-circle: zodiacal signs, seasons, solstices and equinoxes.

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Solstices – at which the day is at minimum or maximum length – occur twice a year in summer and winter; whereas equinoxes – when day and night are of equal length – correspond to the start of spring and autumn.

Stellar transparency

On the back of the watch, a second dial is also brimming with worthwhile astronomical functions. Composed of two superimposed sapphire discs, it is distinguished by its limpid, airy design as well as the originality of its translucent celestial chart for which a patent has been filed. In the foreground, this display depicts the constellation viewed from the Northern Hemisphere, ringed by an anthracite inner bezel ring showing the months of the year as well as a gauge-type power-reserve indicator.

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On this same transparent disc, two ellipses – one red and the other white – respectively correspond to the projections of the ecliptic and the celestial equator. Positioned beneath the constellation, a second disc rimmed by a graduated scale displays sidereal time and the four cardinal points, while an anthracite-coloured sphere reveals a see-through view of the celestial map. In addition, this innovative sky chart also provides a fascinating glimpse of the tourbillon at 6 o’clock.

A feat of technical sophistication and miniaturisation

The extremely complex and exclusive Caliber 3600 powering this exceptional watch called for five years of development, from the start of its fully integrated conceptualisation through to the finishing touches on its refined exterior. This mechanical manual-winding movement not only achieves the feat of combining more than 20 horological complications – including three distinct times driven by three dedicated gear trains – but also has an extraordinary three-week power reserve ensured by six barrels, coupled by three. It naturally takes considerable energy to ensure that such an impressive number of astronomical indications operates with all due precision.

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To achieve this, the Manufacture worked simultaneously on two fronts: by seeking to save energy on the one hand, and by increasing the size of its power supply. So as to optimise the energy stored as well as its transmission, the barrel springs are made from a sturdy and ductile Bioflex®* alloy, while the involute gears mesh in an ideal manner. Finally, the six barrels guarantee a substantial storage volume, while keeping the caliber as slim as possible. The resulting ensemble is a true feat of miniaturisation comprising 514-part finely adjusted and meticulously decorated parts and measuring just 8.7 mm thick! This unique mechanism, equipped with a tourbillon featuring a large balance wheel for enhanced precision and regularity, fits neatly inside an elegant 45 mm-diameter white gold case.

* Bioflex® is a registered mark which does not belong to Vacheron Constantin.

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The eminently legible, visually harmonious and original display of its 23 functions also represents a technical and aesthetic tour de force. Enabling a beautifully balanced layout on the front dial, its movement is adorned with a matt finish and transparent jewels so as to guarantee optimal readability of its sapphire-disc display on the back. Like the entire Vacheron Constantin collection, Les Cabinotiers Celestia Astronomical Grand Complication 3600 bears the Hallmark of Geneva, confirming that it meets the numerous demanding criteria governing this prestigious quality certification.

Reaching for the stars

Presented in the collection Les Cabinotier, made of exclusive timepieces, this astronomical supercomplication model exemplifies the tradition of Geneva’s 18th century “cabinotiers”. These highly specialised watchmaking artisans in their attic workshops created authentic bespoke masterpieces intended for prestigious clients around the world. Fired by the same spirit of blending horological prowess with exclusive service and extreme personalisation, Vacheron Constantin perpetuates this same philosophy of excellence.

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The quintessentially rare Les Cabinotiers Celestia Astronomical Grand Complication 3600 is issued in a limited edition of one. Fitted with an alligator leather strap secured by a white gold pin buckle, it comes in a luxurious presentation box adorned with wood marquetry.
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#VCSIHH
#VCcelestia

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Technical details

Link to photo album  BIG FOTO

Model: Les Cabinotiers Celestia Astronomical Grand Complication 3600

Reference 9720C/000G-B281
Hallmark of Geneva certified timepiece

Movement
Calibre 3600 Developed and manufactured by Vacheron Constantin
Mechanical, manual-winding
36 mm (15 ¾’’’) diameter, 8.7 mm thick
Approximately 3 weeks of power reserve
2.5Hz (18,000 vibrations/hour)
514 components
64 jewels
Indications
Hours, minutes, perpetual calendar, day/night indication, precision moon phase, age of the moon, running equation of time, sunrise and sunset time, day and night length, seasons, solstices, equinoxes and zodiacal signs, tide level indicator, Sun-Earth-Moon conjunction, opposition and quadrature, transparent sky chart of the northern hemisphere with indication of the Milky Way, of the ecliptic and celestial equator, hours and minutes of sidereal time, tourbillon, 3 weeks of power reserve (6 barrels), power reserve indication
Case
18K white gold
45 mm diameter, 13.6 mm thick
Transparent sapphire crystal caseback
Water-resistance tested at a pressure of 3 bar (approx. 30 metres)
Dial
Slate-colored opaline
18K gold applied hour-markers
18K gold hands
Strap
Black Mississippiensis alligator leather with alligator inner shell,
hand-stitched, saddle-finish, large square scales
Clasp:18K white gold pin buckle; Polished half Maltese cross-shaped

Accessories
Delivered with a corrector pen and a magnifying glass

Unique timepiece
« Pièce unique » and « Les Cabinotiers » engraved on the back of the timepiece

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 SIHH.Vacheron-Constantin.com
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Vacheron Constantin
Press Department
10, Chemin du Tourbillon
P.O. Box 95
CH-1228
Plan-les-Ouates/Geneva
Tel. +41 22 930 20 05
Fax +41 22 930 20 06
press@vacheron-constantin.com
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Friday, February 24, 2017

ETERNA – KonTiki Bronze Manufacture Edition


















ETERNAKonTiki Bronze Manufacture Limited Edition

THE KONTIKI SETS SAIL

Eterna marks the 70th anniversary of Thor Heyerdahl’s legendary KonTiki expedition with a bold new limited edition timepiece manufactured, for the very first time, out of bronze.

Iconic design

In celebration of this important anniversary, the new Eterna KonTiki Bronze Manufacture Limited Edition continues the magnificent story of the KonTiki adventure with a bold and highly recognizable design. Trianguar luminescent hour markers are contrasted against a jet-black, granite-patterned dial that provides excellent legibility, while a unidirectional rotating bezel frames the dial with a decompression gauge. This decompression function provides divers with a useful backup to their diving computers as it indicates how long they can stay under water without needing to decompress.

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With a water-resistance of 200 metres, the Eterna KonTiki Bronze Manufacture is ready for adventures both on the surface of the water and at the depths of the ocean. The diving style has not been neglected either, as the timepiece is  fitted with a water-resistant leather strap that is durable and comfortable and whose dark brown colour brings out the warmth of the bronze case.

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This special collection dedicated to the 70th anniversary of the KonTiki expedition is limited to 300 pieces and is the perfect partner for today’s explorers who need a stylish timepiece that they can rely on as they embark on their very own adventures.

The beauty of bronze

The use of bronze has a long and renowned nautical history. For centuries, ships have relied on this metal alloy for its exceptional strength and resistance to rust and erosion. Even when it is in constant contact with salt water, bronze shows hardly any signs of corrosion, making it an excellent choice for the case of the new adventurous Eterna KonTiki Bronze Manufacture Limited Edition.

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Bronze is able to resist the agressivity of salt water thanks to its ability to super cially oxidize and create a greenish/brown copper oxide layer that protects it from the elements. This layer is called a patina and develops di erently for each and every wearer, making it a practical, yet stylish material for a watch’s case.

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This ancient alloy is highly appreciated by watch lovers for its ever-evolving colour, but also for its aged and weathered look that rhymes so perfectly with adventure, exploration, courage and strength. It is the perfect material for celebrating the 70th anniversary of the famous KonTiki expedition due to its vintage look and longstanding connection to the sea.

 KONTIKI
IN MEMORY OF AN ADVENTUROUS EXPEDITION

The watches in the KonTiki line are a reminder of thecourage and resolution of archaeologist and ethnologist Thor Heyerdahl. Back in 1947, the 32-year-old Norwegianand five other scientists set out from the Peruviancoast into the Pacific Ocean on a simple raft made ofbalsa wood named after Kon-Tiki, an Incan sun god.

Heyerdahl had embarked on his derring-do expeditionto prove that it would have been technically possible forthe pre-Columbian Indians of South America to reach Polynesia with the help of the Humboldt Current andthe Passat wind. On their wrists the researchers worespecially made, extremely tough and reliable watchesfrom Eterna’s workshops. The crew put their trust inthese indispensable navigation aids whenever theyhad to carry out manoeuvres or make decisionsupon which depended not only the success of theirmission but also the survival of the men themselves. After 101 days and nights on the high seas, with almost 8000 kilometres behind them, Thor Heyerdahl and hiscrew finally reached the Raroia atoll in Polynesia.

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“Borders? I have never seen one. But I have heard they exist in the minds of some people.” 
Thor Heyerdahl

Their watches likewise survived the journey and shownno sign of damage from salt water, the humidity orthe fluctuating temperatures. The technical findings andexpertise taken from the creation of the timepieces forthis successful expedition subsequently flowed into thefurther development of Eterna’s sports watches.

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Technical specifications

Model: KonTiki Bronze Manufacture Edition 44 MM

Ref  1291.78.49.1422

MOVEMENT
Calibre Maison Eterna 3902A,
Power reserve 65h,
28’800 v.p.h, 30 jewels, 1 ball bearing
CASE
All brushed bronze, rotating black ceramic bezel,
case back secured with screw down, case back in SST,
sapphire crystal opening
CRYSTAL
Scratch-resistant, anti-reflective sapphire crystal
DIMENSIONS
∅ 44.0 mm / 14.05mm
DIAL
Black, matte
FUNCTIONS
Hour, minute, second
STRAP & CLASP
Waterproof brown leather strap, bronze pin buckle

Limited edition of 300 pieces

PRICE
CHF 2 590 / € 2 690 / $ 2 650/ GBP 2 300

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Eterna SA
Schützengasse 46 
• CH-2540 Grenchen
• Tel. +41 (0)32 654 72 52
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Eterna.com

Mühle-Glashütte – Teutonia Sport I Chronograph
















Mühle-GlashütteTeutonia Sport I Chronograph - 2017

A Need for Speed: the new Teutonia Sport I

Be it roaring down the Nürburgring race track or speeding down the slopes in the Swiss Alps, the new Teutonia Sport I doesn't just thrive on measuring the time it takes to cover a certain distance, but also loves to reveal speed measurements at a glance too.

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This special feature of the new sport chronograph from the German town of Glashütte is all thanks to its clever tachymeter function. If the Teutonia Sport I is used to measure the time it takes to travel 1000 metres, the red scale on the flange of the watch enables you to read your speed at a glance.

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A quick look at the calendar, however, tells us that the major highlight of the watch year 2017 is drawing even closer: the watch show in Basel, Switzerland, from 23rd to 30th March, which is the world's largest watch and jewellery show.

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 So in a few days you will be able to be impressed by our Teutonia Sport I and you can marvel at four new timepieces from Nautische Instrumente Mühle-Glashütte at the Baselworld show.

Come and visit us at Baselworld 2017

We would be delighted to present our new Mühle watches for 2017 and our entire collection of watches to you in more detail at the Baselworld show. Come and visit us at stand A39 in Hall 2.0 from 23rd to 30th March 2017!

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In Glashütte since 1869: Five Mühle Generations

Mühle and Glashütte – a long story, in the truest sense of the word. For our family has been resident in this region for 700 years. One of our ancestors was even raised to the rank of baron. Thus we have had a family crest since 1629, and above all a family motto which states: “Neither through hope, nor through fear”. This means that we are down-to-earth realists who tackle problems resolutely.

This is also precisely why we did not give up even when our company, which was founded in 1869, was threatened by world wars, socialism and expropriation. So today we can say with pride that the name “Mühle” has stood for precision and precision measuring for five generations already.

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Our story started with the manufacture of measuring instruments, and nowadays we develop time measuring instruments. How did this come about? A long story, which is described briefly on the following pages. The inclusion of this story was important to us. After all, it is the foundation of what Mühle stands for today: elementary time measurement.

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Technical specifications

Model: Teutonia Sport I

Movement
Calibre MU 9413, automatic

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• Patented woodpecker neck regulation, Glashütte three-quarter plate and Mühle rotor
• Characteristic surface finishes with blued screws, Glashütte solarization and perlage
• Hour, minute and small second with stop-second
• Chronograph with stop-second hand, 30-minute and 12-hour counter
• Date and weekday display with fast correction
• 48-hr power reserve
• Ø 30.0 mm; H 7.9 mm
Case
Brushed/polished stainless steel.
Red scale on the flange
Domed and double anti-glare sapphire crystal.
Transparent case back. Screw-in crown.
Ø 42.6 mm; H 15.5 mm.
Water-resistant to 30 bars.
Dial
Black. Applied indices.
Red scale tachymeter on the flange
Hands: Brushed stainless steel.
Bezel: 60-minute scale
Hands and hour markers coated in SuperLumiNova.
Functions
Hours, Minutes, Seconds, Date, Calendar
Hours and minutes in the centre
Small seconds at 9 o’clock
Chronograph:
– Central chronograph hand
30-minute counter at 12 o’clock
12-hour counter at 9 o’clock

Strap
Waterproof leather/rubber strap with a stainless steel pin buckle.
Screwed strap attachment bridges.

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Release 2017
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Contact details
Tel. +49 711/ 36 53 37 78
Fax +49 711 / 36 53 37 89
E-Mail: PRmuehle-glashuette@convensis.com
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