Wednesday, September 28, 2016

MB&F – Horological Machine N°8 ‘Can-Am’















MB&FHorological Machine HM8Can-Am’ Titanium and Gold

Horological Machine N°8 Can-Am
The essence of MB&F. The spirit of Can-Am

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Over the last decade, two indelible forms have often marked MB&F’s Horological Machines: the distinctive angular form and optical prism displays of the revisited 1970s Amida watch, which first manifested in HM5 and then HMX; and the now signature “battle-axe” winding rotor, which took centre stage on top of HM3, MB&F's most popular model to date.

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Horological Machine N°8 (HM8) takes those two idiosyncratic features and infuses them with high-octane Can-Am race car-inspired design – generating an exquisitely sculptured, high-speed wrist-borne fantasy.

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Gentlemen, start your engines. Feel the THUNDER!

HM8 rises from the turbo-charged ashes of the Can-Am, a discontinued "anything goes" car racing series that would have celebrated its 50th anniversary in 2016.

The Canadian-American Challenge Cup, Can-Am for short, was a sports car racing series running from 1966 to 1987. Bruce McLaren developed his very first car for the Can-Am series; McLaren, Lola, Chaparral, BRM, Shadow and Porsche all ran manufacture teams. Class restrictions in the Can-Am were minimal and allowed for unlimited engine sizes, turbocharging, supercharging, and basically unrestricted aerodynamics. This all led to the development of pioneering technology in many fields. And extremely powerful engines.

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HM8 Can-Am features a curvaceous yet angular case, with dual optical prisms vertically displaying bi-directional jumping hours and trailing minutes, while the distinctive battle-axe winding rotor is visible on top. But the real star of HM8 is its Can-Am inspired polished "roll bars" majestically sweeping from the front of the Machine down to the beguiling tapered back. Incongruously for a fully mechanical racing machine, the visual effect is electric.

MB&F founder Maximilian Büsser describes Horological Machine N°8:"I feel that this is one of the coolest pieces I've ever created."

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Those roll bars are milled from solid blocks of grade 5 titanium and then meticulously hand-polished to gleam like tubular mirrors.

HM8
's Engine sits in full view under a nearly invisible sapphire crystal engine cover. The open centre of the blued-gold battle-axe rotor enables appreciation of the circular wave finish on the movement, while the hour and minute indication discs are visible in the corners.

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The generous use of sapphire crystal allows unfettered visual access to the movement while its transparency backlights the time displays, making them more legible by day. Light also charges the Super-LumiNova numerals on the hour and minute discs for maximum legibility by night. HM8’s form amplifies its function rather than simply following it.

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 Can-Am launches in two versions: 
18K white gold/titanium and 18K red gold/titanium

HM8 Can-Am in detail

Inspiration

When he was young, MB&F founder Maximilian Büsser dreamt of becoming a car designer, but that wasn't an option and he ended up designing watches instead. Or did he? It wouldn't take much to scale HM8 up to car size, drop a 1,000+ horsepower motor under the sapphire crystal hood and put a set of slick racing tyres under the chassis.

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While visually it is those polished roll bars linking HM8 to the Can-Am supercars, it's the rebellious spirit of working outside restrictive rules that really provided the inspiration for HM8.

Case, roll bars, and crystals

At first glance it may appear that the sapphire crystal covering the HM8 Engine is circular and positioned above the battle-axe rotor, but it's not. The complete top of the case is one piece of sapphire crystal with sections of the crystal metallised to create a bluish border. That crystal, combined with the polished roll bars on each side, the oil sumps underneath, and the time displays created by optical prisms highlight HM8’s unrestricted horological creativity.

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The roll bars are in grade 5 titanium, which has the desired qualities of being light in weight and high in strength. But that strength comes with a twist: titanium is not very malleable and cannot be bent easily into the desired long curve, which means that each roll bar has to be milled from a solid block of titanium Ti-6Al-4V. This is a blend of pure titanium with 6% aluminium and 4% vanadium as well as trace amounts of iron and oxygen. The Ti-6Al-4V alloy is significantly stronger than commercially pure titanium and boasts an excellent combination of lightness, strength, and resistance to corrosion.

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Turning HM8 over reveals another automotive tip of the hat: like most car engines which have an “oil sump” located underneath, HM8 has dual oil sumps under its own Engine.

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Engine

HM8 Can-Am is powered by an in-house developed bi-directional jumping hour and trailing minute indication module, on a Girard-Perregaux base movement. The movement is inverted to put the winding rotor on top and modified to drive the prism indicator module. The finishing of the movement is first class, which it has to be as it is completely open to view from the top. The power reserve is 42 hours.

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Indications and reflective prisms

The bi-directional jumping hour and trailing minute displays on HM8 are materialised by overlapping discs (one for the hours, one for the minutes), completely covered in Super-LumiNova. The effect of large numerals is created by masking all of the lume except for the numbers.

The discs rotate horizontally on top of the movement; they are visible in the corners of the transparent Engine cover. Yet the time indications are displayed vertically in a ‘dashboard’ at the front of the case. To achieve this, MB&F worked with a high-precision optical glass supplier to develop reflective sapphire crystal prisms that reflect light from the discs 90°. The prisms also magnify the indications by 20% to maximise legibility.

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HM8 has separate sapphire crystal prisms for the hour and minute displays, which are wedge-shaped with precisely calculated angles to ensure that light is reflected (and reversed) from the horizontal indications to the vertical rather than refracted (bent). A convex lens at the front provides the magnification.

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Sapphire crystal is much more difficult to work to optical precision than glass, and it took considerable development and meticulous care in production to create crystals that reflected and magnified light without the slightest distortion. Because the time is reflected, the numbers are printed on the discs as mirror images so that they display correctly on the ‘dial’.

The vertical, forward-facing display makes HM8 Can-Am an excellent driver’s watch, as there is no need to lift your wrist from the steering wheel to read the display.



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The Can-Am

In the 1960s, Formula One car racing was mainly European and very regimented, with only small modifications permitted within tight rules designed to slow cars down. The engines were only developed up to 600-horsepower. A few North American racers balked at all the restrictions and decided to create their own racing series, the Canadian-American Challenge Cup (which became more popularly known as the Can-Am). The series launched many of the greatest names in car racing, including Lola and McLaren. The Can-Am basically had no rules except to go fast!


The Canadian-American Challenge Cup was a Group 7 SCCA/CASC sports car racing series running from 1966 to 1987, with two races in Canada and four in the USA each season. Because the class permitted virtually “anything goes” in terms of engine size, power and aerodynamics, the Can-Am was a hotbed of technical innovation. Wings, race turbocharging, ground-effect aerodynamics, and materials like titanium were all honed in the Can-Am. As long as a car had two seats, bodywork around the wheels, and met basic safety rules, it was likely to qualify. At its peak, Can-Am cars had the most advanced racing technology in the world, and with 1,000 horsepower compared to Formula One's 500-600 horsepower at the time, Can-Am cars lapped some tracks faster than F1 cars.

And those stunning chrome roll bars ensured the driver's safety if all of that power were to suddenly turn upside down.

While lack of restrictions in Can-Am provided its main attraction, the constant race to develop more power, better handling, and improved aerodynamics was extremely expensive. When you can do anything to a race car to make go faster, it's expensive to do it all – but if you don't, the other team might. In 1972 Porsche developed a 917 with a flat-12 motor producing up to an incredible 1,580 horsepower. Porsche called it the Turbopanzer and, weighing in at just 816 kilograms, it was capable of over 380 km/h (240 mph) on the straights. Unsurprisingly, the Turbopanzer was so dominant in 1973 that a minimum fuel consumption rule was introduced the following season.

But by the early 1970s the writing was on the wall. An oil crisis followed by a recession wasn't conducive to a very expensive racing series, and in 1987 the Can-Am ran its last race.

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TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS

Model: Horological Machine N°8 ‘Can-Am’

Ref  80.WTL.B Titanium and 18k White Gold 
Ref  80.RTL.B Titanium and 18k Red Gold

ENGINE (Movement)
Base movement: Stefano Macaluso, Raphael Ackermann / Girard Perregaux 
Three-dimensional engine conceived and developed by MB&F from a Girard-Perregaux base calibre
Automatic battle-axe winding rotor in 22k gold
Power reserve: 42 hours
Balance frequency: 28,800bph / 4Hz
Number of components: 247
Number of jewels: 30
FUNCTIONS / INDICATIONS
Bi-directional jumping hours and trailing minutes displayed by two optical prisms that both reflect and magnify 
CASE
Material:
Launch editions in 18k Gold and Titanium
  • Titanium and 18k Red Gold
  • Titanium and 18k White Gold
Dimensions: 49 mm x 51.5 mm x 19 mm
Number of components: 60 components
Water resistance: 30 m / 90' / 3 atm
Water resistance of engine container: 30m / 90’ / 3atm
SAPPHIRE CRYSTALS
All sapphire crystals – front, back, top, bottom – treated with anti-reflective coating on both faces
Strap & Buckle

Hand-stitched alligator strap in marine blue (white gold case) and
dark brown (red gold case) with folding buckle in matching case material


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Tuesday, September 27, 2016

VACHERON CONSTANTIN – TRADITIONNELLE Chronograph Perpetual Calendar Platinum

















VACHERON CONSTANTINTRADITIONNELLE Chronograph Perpetual Calendar Platinum 43 mm NEW

A fresh interpretation of a legendary 
Hallmark of Geneva certified timepiece

The Manufacture is revisiting one of its most iconic models: the Traditionnelle chronograph perpetual calendar. Equipped with the new Manufacture Vacheron Constantin Caliber 1142 QP, this timepiece perpetuates the tradition of excellence cultivated by the finest Geneva watchmakers.

With this new creation appearing in a 950 platinum version, Vacheron Constantin has opted to combine two key Fine Watchmaking complications: the chronograph and the perpetual calendar.

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Technique meets elegance

With its classic round case, the Traditionnelle collection by Vacheron Constantin embodies the values cherished by the Maison, combining tradition and formal elegance with supreme mastery of horological complications. The new Traditionnelle chronograph perpetual calendar is the ultimate expression of this successful synergy. The collection’s distinctive design codes are reflected in each and every detail: the stepped case with a distinctive fluted pattern on the back, the dauphine-style hands and the railway- type minute track. A white tachymeter scale surrounding the dial accentuates the technical nature of the watch.

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Limpid display

Exemplifying a concern for legibility, the dial features various shades of grey with finishes that differ according to the functions, reflecting the layout of 1940s Vacheron Constantin chronographs. Standing out against a slate-coloured opaline base, the small seconds and chronograph minute counters are distinguished by a circular- brushed ring with snailed centre.

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The 22K white gold moon disc is hand-finished in keeping with the fine tradition of artistic crafts cultivated by Vacheron Constantin. Positioned in the centre of the date counter with a dark grey rim, it provides a symbolic depiction of a moon face that is alternately smiling or melancholy, depending on the path of the Earth’s satellite. A subtle nod to historical pocket watches.

Subtle evolution

This sophisticated aesthetic approach is matched by the technical evolution embodied in the movement of the Traditionnelle chronograph perpetual calendar. Caliber 1142 QP, a state-of-the-art movement entirely designed and developed within the Manufacture, replaces the previous 1142 QP.

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The new movement drives the perpetual calendar functions – with indications of the date, days, months, leap years and moon phases – as well as the chronograph functions with a direct-drive seconds hands and 30-minute counter at 3 o’clock, positioned opposite the small seconds at 9 o’clock. This newcomer to the Traditionnelle collection will thus be able to keep track of all the vagaries of the calendar without any need for adjustments until March 1st 2100.


High standards certified by the Hallmark of Geneva


With the development of this new caliber, the Vacheron Constantin watchmakers and developers have been keenly attentive to the energy constraints relating to the chronograph functions, in order to minimise their impact on the 48-hour power reserve. The oscillation frequency of the balance has also been raised from 2.5 to 3 Hz (21,600 vibrations/hour) so as to increase reliability and shock resistance.

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Like all Vacheron Constantin movements, this new caliber visible through an elegant transparent sapphire crystal caseback was developed and designed to meet the stringent Hallmark of Geneva criteria. This emblem of Geneva’s watchmaking excellence applies both to the caliber itself and to the finishing of the watch as a whole, governed by demanding norms that make it one of the most rigorous and renowned watch industry certifications.

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The Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle chronograph perpetual calendar is fitted with a hand-stitched Mississippiensis alligator leather strap secured by a 950 platinum folding clasp. An authentic marvel on the wrist.

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TECHNICAL CHARACTERISTICS

Model: TRADITIONNELLE Chronograph Perpetual Calendar Platinum Caliber 1142 QP
Reference: 5000T/000P-B048

Hallmark of Geneva certified timepiece

Movement
Reference: Caliber 1142 QP  
Developed and manufactured by Vacheron Constantin
Caliber: 1142 QP
Mechanical, manual-winding
27.5 mm (12’’’) diameter, 7.37 mm thick
Approximately 48 hours of power reserve
3 Hz (21,600 vibrations/hour)
324 components
21 jewels

Certification: Hallmark of Geneva
Indications
Hours, minutes, small seconds at 9 o’clock
Perpetual calendar (day of the week, date, month, leap year indication)
Moon phase
Column-wheel chronograph (30-minute counter) at 3 o’clock

Case
950 platinum
43 mm diameter, 12.94 mm thick
Transparent sapphire crystal caseback

Water-resistance tested at a pressure of 3 bar (approx. 30 meters)
Dial 
Slate-coloured, opaline, 22K white gold moon disc
White painted tachymeter scale
18K white gold hour-markers

Strap
Black Mississippiensis alligator leather with alligator inner shell,
hand-stitched, saddle-finish, large square scales
Clasp: 950 platinum folding clasp
Polished half Maltese cross-shaped

Presentation box: With watch winder
Accessory: Delivered with a corrector pen
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Vacheron Constantin
Press Department
10, Chemin du Tourbillon
P.O. Box 95
CH-1228
Plan-les-Ouates/Geneva
Tel. +41 22 930 20 05
Fax +41 22 930 20 06
press@vacheron-constantin.com
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Monday, September 26, 2016

TAG HEUER – AQUARACER PHANTOM Black Special Japan Edition















TAG HEUERAQUARACER 300M PHANTOM Black Titanium Special Japan Edition NEW


Japan: TAG Heuer celebrates the new 
AQUARACER PHANTOM
with an Exclusive Night Cruising

Tokyo, July 7Th - Lucky 7. No better draw for the launching night of the new TAG Heuer Aquaracer Phantom One Piece special edition (Japan Exclusive) developed in collaboration with the most popular ever Guinness book record manga, ONE PIECE, in Tokyo Bay with a glimpse of blue sky during the rainy season and a gentle breeze.

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On an unique vessel, designed by the Master of manga writers of Japan, Reiji Matsumoto, the guests, all dressed ALL BLACK code – not only a wink to the Phantom design of the Aquaracer but also a witty allusion to the costumes of the One Piece heroes in the latest movie coming at the end of the month, were welcomed by TAG Heuer Japan General Manager, Yasuomi Kawamura and Mademoiselle Yulia, the hottest woman DJ and fashionista of the time.

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The ribbon ceremony, inspired by the traditional launching ceremony performed by the imperial family on a sake barrel, celebrated the start of the cruising, and was the occasion to present the newest  Aquaracer collection of this year. From the Aquaracer ceramic 300Meters for men to the Aquaracer Lady Full Ceramic 35mm and the Steel and Ceramic 29 mm (an unique collection made especially for Japan and Korea markets), the full line up amazed the press and the influencers who attended the party.

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Contemporary shape, incomparable color palette, the Aquaracer is the watch for all actively beautiful men and women. Sport, which is more and more considered not only as a physical performance but rather defined as part of lifestyle, a way to express one’s self is the ideal moment for anybody to endorse the TAG Heuer spirit of #DONTCRACKUNDERPRESSURE.

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A few words on the Aquaracer Phantom One Piece Special Edition

The Aquaracer Phantom One Piece Special Edition will be launched on July 23rd in Japan exclusively, the same day as the launch of the One Piece Movie. The design, based on the Aquaracer Black Phantom 3 hands watch, in titanium and ceramic, is celebrating the codes of the 9 pirates heroes of the manga.

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The touches of red, symbolizing the thrill of adventure, strong friendship and boldness is also the theme color of the main character Luffy. The indexes covered by blue SLN and the bezel design directly inspired by a compass are an echo to the marine universe of both pirates and Aquaracer.

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This special model will be accompanied by a Collector edition in a gorgeous treasure box, including a set of 9 different case-backs representing each hero. Only 100 boxes available.

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Press release - 2016 
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Saturday, September 24, 2016

Ulysse Nardin – DIVER Chronograph MONACO Edition


Ulysse NardinDIVER Chronograph MONACO Limited Edition NEW


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A Limited Edition Ulysse Nardin Diver Chronograph 
Monaco delights the yachting world.

Introducing a commemorative timepiece that encapsulates the spirit of innovation and independence that have driven Ulysse Nardin forward for over 170 years. 

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With a nautical history as profound as the oceans, the timekeep-ing instruments of the Swiss watchmaker have been guiding sailors with exact precision for many a decade. It seems a natural extension of that history for the manufacture to become official sponsor of the Monaco Yacht Show, an honor it has held for the last eight years.

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Ulysse Nardin pays tribute to this high point in the yachting calendar with a Limited Edition Diver Chronograph Monaco. Clothed in the smart red and blue shared by other Monaco Limited Edition timepieces, the Diver Chronograph commemorates the event with a minute counter showing the heraldic pattern of the Principality of Monaco, also present on the sapphire crystal case back. Monaco Yacht Show 2016 is written on the blue dial, while the indexes and hands show the colors of the Monaco flag.

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The deep connection Ulysse Nardin has with the sea is present in every aspect of this highly collectible timepiece, of which only 100 stainless steel pieces have been made. A fully functional diver, as well as a precision chrono-graph, it is ready for anything the ocean can throw at it, making it an ideal timepiece sailors and all those who love the sea.

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The Diver Chronograph Monaco holds a self-winding movement: the in-house designed Caliber UN-150 with its silicium escapement. Seconds hand in the center, small seconds at 9 o'clock, 30 minutes at 3 o'clock, 12 hour counter and a round date window at 6 o'clock offer complete chronograph timekeeping.

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The diving DNA is revealed as much by the watch's oversized 44mm case as its unidirectional diving bezel - a security measure to prevent accidental changes to the dive time. The outside of the rotating bezel is fluted, as if to echo the wave motif etched in rubber on the stainless steel.

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Rubber coats of the screw-down security crown too, ensuring grip and an exceptional water resistance to 300 meters - along with its other traits, the mark of a true div-ing watch. For legibility as much as to delight the eye, the Diver Chronograph Monaco is a perfect fusion between form and function for which Ulysse Nardin is known.

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Technical Specifications

Model: DIVER Chronograph MONACO Limited Edition

Reference: 1503-151-7M/93-MON - Stainless steel of 100 pieces

Movement 
Caliber UN-150
In-house designed movement
Silicium escapement 28’800 v/h
Power reserve: Approximately 48 h
Winding: Self-winding
Functions
Chronograph with seconds hand in the centre
  • Small seconds counter at 9 o’clock
  • 30 minutes counter at 3 o’clock
  • 12-hour counter at 6 o’clock
  • Date at 6 o’clock
Case 
Stainless steel
Diameter: 44 mm
Bezel: Rotating and fluted, in stainless steel covered with rubber minutes figures in red
Crown: Screw down security crown, with rubber
Water-resistance: 300 m
Crystal: Anti-reflective sapphire crystal
Case-back: Open case back with sapphire crystal decorated with the logo of the Principality of Monaco
Dial 
Blue with diamond pattern, index and hands with the Monaco’s flag colors and
counter with the logo of the Principality of Monaco
Bracelet   
Stainless steel and folding buckle


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Ulysse Nardin SA
Marketing Department
Rue du Jardin 3
2400 Le Locle
Switzerland
T :+4132 930 74 00
F :+4132 930 74 21
 

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Friday, September 23, 2016

LONGINES – HERITAGE Military Automatic














LONGINESHERITAGE Military Automatic NEW

The Longines Heritage Military – Military styling and distinctive character

Swiss watchmaker Longines blends history and imagination in the design of this watch, influenced by army aesthetics. Giving a fresh cast to the lines of a dial used regularly in the brand’s early 20th century timepieces, the Longines Heritage Military displays elegant restraint that is resolutely modern. The 12 large Arabic numerals adorning the matt black dial make it easy to tell the time at a glance. 

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Longines is expanding its Heritage collection with this impressively distinctive watch. The charismatic man who wears the Longines Heritage Military draws many admiring glances to his wrist, secure in the knowledge that its great aesthetics do not come at the cost of reliability. Both qualities are cornerstones of the winged hourglass brand, which draws on a rich legacy with this design, derived from a 1918 watch from the Longines Museum’s historical collection at the company’s Saint-Imier headquarters.

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While the Longines Heritage Military echoes the disciplined, robust design of military watches, it also showcases the brand’s watchmaking expertise brilliantly. Its satin-brushed case, complemented with a fluted crown, guarantees a timeless appeal.

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The matt black dial is adorned with 12 large painted Arabic numerals coated with Super-LumiNova®. Combined with elegant “Breguet”-type hands and a train track chapter ring, they ensure the dial can be easily read even in conditions of poor visibility.

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The Longines Heritage Military 44 mm steel case houses a self-winding L615.3 calibre with a 42-hour power reserve. The small seconds and the date aperture are positioned at 6 o’clock. An elegant black alligator-skin strap brings the finishing touch of aesthetic perfection.

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Technical Specifications

Model:  HERITAGE Military

Reference number:  L2.811.4.53.0/3

Movement:
Automatic winding mechanical movement
Calibre L615.3 (ETA 2895/2)
11½ lines, 27 jewels, 28’800 alternations per hour
42-hour power reserve 
Functions:
Hours, minutes, small second and date at 6 o’clock
Case:
Stainless steel
Round,  Ø 44 mm.
Glass : Scratch-resistant sapphire crystal with multilayered anti-reflective coating
Water resistance : Up to 3 bar (30 meters)  
Dial and Hands
Color : Black matte
Dials : 12 painted Arabic numerals with Super-LumiNova®
Hands : Rhodium-plated with Super-LumiNova®
Strap:  
Material : Alligator strap
Color : Black
Buckle : With buckle

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Press release - 2016
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For further information please contact:
Longines International Public Relations
2610 Saint-Imier, Switzerland
publicrelations@longines.com
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