GIRARD-PERREGAUX – Tri-Axial Tourbillon

GIRARD-PERREGAUX  – Tri-Axial Tourbillon Limited Edition NEW

The Tri-Axial Tourbillon represents a major success for Girard-Perregaux, a historic specialist in the mastery of this precision watch mechanism. This is a new step for the Manufacture in its quest for chronometric perfection with a high-speed tourbillon on three separate axes.

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A complex mechanism aimed at optimizing chronometric precision, the tourbillon has been a specialty of Girard-Perregaux for over a century and a half. Once again, the Manufacture at La Chaux-de-Fonds demonstrates its mastery of the subject, taking its search for precision even further with the Tri-Axial Tourbillon.

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This development embodies the quintessence of time measurement based on the physical principle of the elimination of disturbances, the first being the Earth's gravitational pull. As it is designed on three planes instead of the traditional one, the Tri-Axial Tourbillon optimizes its performance and showcases a captivating spectacle.

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The external parts therefore needed to be specially adapted in order to integrate this extraordinary caliber. The tourbillon's triple cage required the integration of a domed lens that rests against the sapphire crystal in order to provide the necessary interior volume. 

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With the Tri-Axial Tourbillon, Girard-Perregaux therefore delivers a brilliant demonstration of its expertise and its constant search for watchmaking excellence.

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Three axes
The Tri-Axial Tourbillon by Girard-Perregaux features a regulator on three separate axes. At its heart beats a traditional tourbillon. Its cage performs one rotation in one minute.

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  It is integrated within a structure positioned on a second axis and performs a complete rotation in 30 seconds. Finally, both are inserted into a third system. The ensemble is placed on a third axis and performs one rotation in 2 minutes. The diameter of the ensemble comes to 13.78 mm.

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With a total weight of 1.24 grams, the cage and the drive systems are made of steel. The support pillars are in titanium, or in pink gold to act as a counterweight where the kinetic balance required this. As for the balance, it integrates 16 pink gold adjustment micro-screws. It has an increased frequency of 3 Hz, or 21,600 vibrations per hour.

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Exceptional finishes
A masterpiece of modern engineering, the Tri-Axial Tourbillon caliber remains absolutely faithful to the purest of traditions. The cage adopts the lyre shape that has been characteristic of Girard-Perregaux Tourbillons since the 19th century. Haute Horlogerie timepieces demand components that are decorated and finished by hand with the greatest care. They therefore present mirror-polished surfaces and perfect chamfering (especially on a number of inward angles which are particularly difficult to finish).

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The gear train is circular-grained and the sides are satin-brushed. On the case-back, the eagle, the symbol of the manufacture since 1897, is engraved and a plaque in the arrow shape of the Tourbillon with Three Bridges' iconic bridges bears the individual number of each piece. This shape is also found on the emblematic gold bridges also visible on the back of the movement.

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laying hours, minutes and a time reserve indicator, the new GP09300 mechanical caliber with manual winding measures 36.10 mm in diameter with a height of 16.83 mm. It comprises 317 components and has a minimum power reserve of 52 hours.

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Multiple dial
Constructed on several levels, the dial of the Tri-Axial Tourbillon presents a wide aperture at 9 o'clock that reveals the hypnotic ballet of the regulation system.

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At half past one, a silver dial with Clous de Paris motif presents numerals and hour markers in pink gold. It is encircled with an applique in pink gold and a black flange that displays the minutes numerals in white. The beveled, skeleton-shaped dauphine hands are crafted from pink gold.

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Starting at the center of the watch, the power reserve indicator follows a curve that ends at 6 o'clock. Designed graphically to form an array of circles and curves, the dial presents concentric, regular stripes in the areas that have been left empty. Like Japanese zen stone gardens, these gray-colored areas counterbalance the clear technicality of the timepiece with their understatement and simplicity. Girard-Perregaux's initials gleam in pink gold at 11 o'clock.

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Complex sapphire crystal
Crafted from pink gold, the case respects the design codes of Girard-Perregaux's Haute Horlogerie collection with a beveled bezel, a rounded case-center and lugs that narrow out elegantly towards the exterior. The superior sapphire crystal presents a spectacular construction. At 9 o'clock, a domed sapphire crystal, designed to highlight the tourbillon's three axes, is applied to the main crystal, which is first pierced to the required diameter.

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 A toric-shaped sapphire crystal is also integrated into the side of the case at 9 o'clock in order to show this fascinating spectacle from another angle. Finally, the case-back, which is screwed and transparent, reveals the entire movement and, in particular, the satiny circular bridge engraved with the words "Tri-Axial" that supports the differential of the tourbillon system.

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The Tri-Axial Tourbillon is available in a 10-piece limited edition.

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TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS

Reference: 99815-52-251-BA6A

Case: pink gold
Diameter: 48.00 mm
Dial: gray anthracite
Crystal: anti-reflective sapphire with dome to cover the tourbillon
Case-back: anti-reflective domed sapphire crystal
Apertures on the side to reveal the movement / anti-reflective toric crystal
Water resistance: 30 meters (3 ATM)
Movement
Girard-Perregaux movement GP09300-0001
Mechanical, manual winding movement
Diameter: 36.10 mm (16 ''')
Thickness: 16.83 mm
Frequency: 21,600 Vib/h - (3 Hz)
Power reserve: min. 52 hours
Jewels: 34
Number of components: whole movement: 317
Two-arrow Bridges: in pink gold
Tourbillon:

• Tourbillon cage: 140 components for 1.24 g
• 3 axes
• One rotation every 1 minute on the first axis, every 30 seconds on the second axis, every 2 minutes on the third axis.
• Poised upper and lower cages with pink gold counterpoise
• Beveled and hand-polished pallets bridge
• Balance wheel: variable inertia with pink gold setting screw

All components of the movement have hand finishing according to Haute Horlogerie criteria.
Functions: Tri-Axial tourbillon, hour, minute, power reserve indicator
Wristband
Black alligator leather strap with hand stitches
Pink gold folding buckle

Limited edition: 10-piece

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De Bethune – DB29 Maxichrono Tourbillon

De Bethune – DB29 Maxichrono Tourbillon NEW

Unique in watchmaking history

Introducing De Bethune’s neo-mechanics

Twelve years ago David Zanetta, an art lover and connoisseur of traditional watchmaking, and Denis  Flageollet, an innovative designer and constructor of watches, set up the De Bethune project, ranging from the development of watchmaking techniques to research applied to the horological arts.

Their research follows on from that undertaken by the great horologists of the age of enlightenment,
while assimilating the new technologies and materials to which the fundamental calculations and
principles of conventional mechanics have been applied.
The various innovations emanating from the De Bethune laboratory not only bear witness to these
intentions, they also express the conviction that there is much unexplored territory in the field of
watchmaking technology.
Work on the regulating organ that is at the heart of every watch obeys well-known physical
properties: inertia, mass, elasticity, surface friction and magnetism. Fundamental to the improved
precision and efficiency of watch movements are such technological advances as the patented
balance-spring with flat terminal curve, balance-wheels in silicon and white gold or in titanium and
platinum featuring maximum inertia for a minimum weight, as well as the development of a real
tourbillon for the wrist in silicon and titanium.
The DB29 Maxichrono Tourbillon, the result of seven years of research and development, is the only
one of its kind. This exceptional patented chronograph, packed with innovations, embodies the
essence of De Bethune’s watchmaking.

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A mono-pusher chronograph

The rose-gold case of the DB29 with its smooth curves features the brand’s trademark cone-shaped
lugs. The double case back of this time-measuring instrument is fitted with an invisible hinge so as not
to detract from its clean lines. A single push button, coaxial with the crown at 3 o'clock, operates the
chronograph.

Five central hands

The design of the DB29 Maxichrono Tourbillon’s dial with its five central hands aims to make it easier
and more attractive to read the chronograph indications by doing away with the small subdials of
the conventional chronograph. The hands that give this watch its identity are designed to follow the
different shapes and curves of the silver-toned dial. They are all in hand-polished steel that has been flame-blued by the company’s craftsmen, apart from the chronograph minutes hand, which is in
rose gold.

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Measuring long elapsed times: 23 hours, 59 minutes and 59.9 seconds

This instrument measures long elapsed times with counters for 60 seconds, 60 minutes and 24 hours.
The central chronograph hands are mounted on co-axial stacked wheels, a complex system that
requires real technical expertise to achieve.
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Thanks to the precision ensured by the De Bethune 30-second Tourbillon in silicon and titanium
oscillating at a rate of 36,000 vibrations per hour – one of the fastest and lightest on the market with
its 63 parts weighing a total of 0.18 grams – time is accurately measured and the maximum duration
of elapsed-time measurements amounts to a generous 23 hours, 59 minutes and 59.9 seconds.

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A push button at 4 o'clock opens the cover on the sapphire-crystal glass of a titanium case back to
reveal the modern construction of the calibre DB2039 movement with its polished steel bridges, the
tourbillon at 3 o'clock and the complex mechanism of an innovative time-measuring system
featuring three column-wheels.

De Bethune total clutch system: a patented chronograph invention

De Bethune’s research and development department has announced the filing of a patent
application n° CH00076/14 for the chronograph mechanism. De Bethune’s absolute clutch aims to
improve the performance of chronographs by correcting the faults identified in current mechanisms.
This mechanism makes the most of the advantages of the horizontal and vertical clutch systems
while eliminating their faults. It thus benefits from a marked reduction in the friction that affects the
movement both when the chronograph is running and when it is functioning without the
chronograph engaged.

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The absolute clutch operates in a system engaging the two traditional clutch methods to allow the
different chronograph counters to function semi-autonomously:

•  The chronograph seconds are governed by the new absolute clutch system;
•  The minutes counter is controlled by a shifting pinion;
•  The hours counter is engaged by a horizontal clutch.

Three different types of clutch behind three semi-independent systems controlled by three
column-wheels thus govern the different chronograph elapsed-time counters.

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In this way De Bethune marks a significant technological breakthrough in the history of
chronographs, the result of continuous research heralded by the DB21 Maxichrono in 2006. Constant
innovation relying on an extensive knowledge of age-old expertise has enabled the brand to simplify
and enhance the reliability of the absolute clutch system so that it can be implemented in a
movement manufactured by the production workshops in the Swiss village of L’Auberson.

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Technical Specifications

Ref: DB29RS1 DB29 Maxichrono Tourbillon

Calibre DB 2039
Mechanical hand-wound movement
Functions: hours – minutes – mono-pusher chronograph with 24-hour,
60-minute and 60-second Counters – De Bethune Tourbillon 30″ silicon/titanium 36,000 vph
Diameter 30 mm – 410 parts – hand-crafted finishing and decoration – hand-polished steel –
3 columns wheels
De Bethune absolute clutch *
Self-regulating twin barrel *
Silicon/white gold balance wheel – balance-spring with flat terminal curve*
De Bethune 30″silicon/titanium tourbillon, 36,000 vph*
Silicon escape wheel*
Jewelling: 49 jewels
Frequency: 36,000 vibrations per hour
Power reserve: 5 days
* Manufacture De Bethune innovations and registered patents

Fonctions
Hours and Minutes
Mono-pusher chronograph with 24-hour, 60-minute and 60-second counters
De Bethune 30″silicon/titanium tourbillon
Movement
Calibre DB2039 – Mechanical hand-wound movement
Power reserve: 5 days
Case
5N rose gold – round-shaped – diameter 46 mm – thickness 11.70 mm
Attachments: cone-shaped lugs
Glass: sapphire crystal, 1800 Vickers hardness with double anti-reflective treatment
Crown: at 3 o’clock – mono-pusher button – setting in 2 positions – push button for the double back at 4 o’clock
Back: open – sapphire crystal, 1800 Vickers hardness with double anti-reflective treatment – De Bethune tourbillon 30′′ silicon/titanium 36,000 vph – chronograph calibre with hand-polished bridges
Double back: solid with invisible hinge – 5N rose gold
Display
Dial: silver-toned – the architecture of the dial is constructed on different levels; some are curved to maximize the visibility. From the centre to the periphery : central hours counter – hours inner ring – minutes ring and minutes counter – outer ring with chronograph seconds indication
Hands: 5 curved central hands – hand-polished and flame-blued steel for hours and minutes hands and hours and seconds chronograph indicators – minutes chronograph indicator in rose gold
Strap
Extra-supple alligator leather strap with pin buckle

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Press release - Geneva 2014
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DeWitt – Twenty-8-Eight Tourbillon Prestige

DeWitt – Twenty-8-Eight Tourbillon Prestige Limited Edition NEW

DeWitt unveils its latest technical innovation, the Twenty-8-Eight Tourbillon Prestige watch, a limited edition of 99 pieces, entirely conceived and assembled at the DeWitt Manufacture by its own master watchmakers.

The new Twenty-8-Eight Tourbillon Prestige houses the calibre DW 8015, developed from the DW 8014 movement that was first presented in 2010. This automatic Tourbillon introduces a patented and extremely ingenious Automatic Sequential Winding (A.S.W) device, driven by a peripheral oscillating rotor.

 
The A.S.W. device distributes a constant flow of energy to the main gear-train thanks to the sequenced winding of the barrel. Such a technical prowess makes it possible to obtain an ideal functioning range through the use of a single, manual-type barrel. Moreover, it avoids all the running defects observed when slip-springs are used on conventional automatic calibres.

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The peripheral oscillating rotor is attached to a ring with a sinusoidal profile on its inner edge. This particular shape will, in turn, activate the patented A.S.W system which enables the movement to always operate in an ideal functioning range, between 92 and 96% of the main-spring torque. The escapement is therefore guaranteed to always receive a constant and stable flow of energy thanks to this sequenced winding.

Indeed, two little arms, rocking up and down thanks to the rotation of the sinusoidal ring, ensure the winding of the barrel until it reaches 96% of the movement’s full winding. At that moment, a lever disengages the pawl from winding the barrel and forces it to continue its movement in the air, without hooking on to the wheel.

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The movement then runs on its accumulated reserves of energy, until it reaches 92% of the power reserve, and the pawl then hooks back on to resume winding the barrel. Such a technical prowess makes it possible to obtain an ideal functioning range through the use of a single, manual-type barrel. Moreover, it avoids all the running defects observed when slip-springs are used on conventional automatic calibres.

The method of displaying the dead-beat seconds hand in the centre of the dial makes for easier reading of the time. In direct contact with the Tourbillon cage, the ticking dead-beat seconds hand marks a pause for each second counted, which beautifully outlines the precision level achieved by the oscillating balance.

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Built out of some 334 components, the calibre DW 8015 is the perfect illustration of the inventive audacity of DeWitt’s master watchmakers. It combines the horological classicism of the tourbillon with the technological innovation of the A.S.W. (Automatic Sequential Winding) device. Moreover, the heart of the balance beats to the rhythm of a Straumann Hairspring® with Phillips curve. Developed from seven different elements, the alloy used is unbreakable, self-compensating, non-oxidizing and anti-magnetic. The perfect homogeneity of the hairspring and its incredibly precise flat rolling of 0.0001 mm, or 0.1 of a thousandth of a millimetre, give it its extremely high precision, thus guaranteeing the high performance of the mechanism.

The construction of the movement and of the dial take their inspiration from the world of architecture, using solid geometrical forms inspired by industrial metallic structures.
Thanks to an open-worked mainplate, the carriage of the Tourbillon is thus suspended in the air, producing an effect of transparency and of plunging into the very heart of the movement. The gear-train is unveiled through a dial featuring a fitted rhodium-plated matt chocolate-coloured grid. This robust, masculine aesthetic is reinforced by a series of screws. The power reserve is of 72 hours and is indicated at 9 o’clock by a hand that covers a 180 degree segment.
Its 46 mm case in 18-carat rose gold, adorned with the famous DeWitt imperial columns, matches the applique “W” signature in 18-carat rose gold at 12 o’clock, the hands and the gear-train of the movement.

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On the back of the case the two re-designed rear bridges mark out a strong contrast with their black PVD-treated surfaces. Like all great DeWitt complications, the Twenty-8-Eight Tourbillon Prestige watch bears the signature of the watchmaker who assembled the timepiece, this time directly inscribed on the movement’s rear bridge.

Last but not least, the new DW 8015 movement fully complies with the very demanding finishing norms established by the DeWitt Manufacture: Circular Côtes de Genève, satin-brushed surfaces, circular graining, polishing and bevelling.


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 TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS

Twenty-8-Eight Tourbillon Prestige 

 

Ref.  T8.TP.001

Calibre
Reference DW8015
Movement
Mechanical movement with Tourbillon and patented
Automatic Sequential Winding (A.S.W.) device, driven by a peripheral oscillating rotor
Tourbillon carriage suspended in the left
Dead-beat second is directly connected to the Tourbillon carriage
Signature of the watchmaker on the back bridge of the movement
Diameter: 37 mm
Power reserve: 72 hours
Vibrations: 18,000 A/h
Balance: Variable-inertia (Glucydur) balance
Spiral: DeWitt Straumann Hairspring® with Phillips curve sequenced at 2.5 Hz.
Escapement: 44° angle of lift
Jewels: 36 jewels
Number of components: 334
Functions
Tourbillon, hours, minutes, dead-beat seconds, power reserve
Case
Round case with DeWitt imperial columns on the sides
Material: 18-carat rose gold
Diameter: 46 mm
Total thickness: 12.10 mm
Crown: 18-carat rose gold polished crown adorned with a ring made in blackened titanium featuring the “W” signature
Case back: Sapphire crystal, secured with screws
Distance between lugs: 23 mm
Dial
Chocolate-brown dial with rhodium-plated railings
Open-work on the Tourbillon carriage at 6 o’clock and
on the power reserve at 9 o’clock
Railroad indicating the minutes
18-carat rose gold applique with the “W” logo at 12 o’clock
Hands: Hours and minutes: open-worked hands in the shape of double- edged swords
Water-resistance: 30 metres
Wristband
Bracelet: Semi-matt brown alligator leather strap
Buckle: 18-carat rose gold triple blade folding clasp, polished, “W” signature

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www.DeWitt.ch

ROMAIN GAUTHIER – Logical one Secret Ruby & Diamonds

ROMAIN GAUTHIER – Logical one SECRET Ruby & Diamonds NEW

LOGICAL ONE SECRET by ROMAIN GAUTHIER
The Ultimate Synthesis of Fine Art and Haute Horlogerie

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Logical one Secret features an unparalleled fusion of superlative expressions of fine art and award-winning haute horlogerie.

With its cover closed, hours, minutes and seconds are embraced in a glittering ocean of diamonds cascading right down to the lugs. An incredible 181 invisibly set baguette diamonds, totally nearly 7 carats, make for an ever-changing panorama of constantly glittering and sparkling reflections.

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A gentle squeeze on the pusher discreetly set into the caseband at 4 o'clock lifts the cover, revealing the intricate complexity of Logical one's award-winning − Best Men’s Complications Watch at the 2013 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève − multi-patented constant force movement.

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The fully integrated cover sensually follows the form of the sapphire crystal underneath to create a canvas for artists of many mediums, e.g. gem setting, guilloche, miniature painting, enameling, engraving to 'paint'.

The craftsmanship required for invisible diamond setting is even more demanding than most in that it requires not one but two skilled artists: gem setter and diamond cutter.

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To be invisibly set, each and every diamond has to be carefully grooved, with each cut running the very real risk of breaking the stone. However, while invisibly set diamonds are very difficult to accomplish, the effect is spectacular as, without visible support, the gems look larger and light can reflect and refract throughout unimpeded in an explosion of brilliance.

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And besides the sheer transcendental aesthetical magnificence of a cover and lugs blanketed in 100s of stunning diamonds, they also provide a practical advantage in creating an extremely scratch resistant case.

Logical One features the quadruple-patent-pending Romain Gauthier flat chain-and-fusee style constant force system with ruby chain links, ergonomic push button winding system, dial-side visible balance, mainspring barrel with sapphire inserts, plus a 60-hour power reserve indicator. 

 

Constant force

 

The vast majority of machines run on constant force: Cars and planes don’t start running slower as fuel runs low and machines receive how much electricity is produced.

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                                                          Both lines on the graph above represent a 60-hour power reserve
Yet the power that runs and regulates the vast majority of high precision mechanical timepieces varies greatly according to the state of wind of the mainspring.

Constant force is one of the holy grails of horology and with Logical One, Romain Gauthier has reinvented the chain-and-fusee − one of the oldest and most traditional methods of supplying constant force to a watch/clock movement − making it both more reliable, more effective . . . and more constant.

‘Coming from an engineering background, it appeared strange to have a high precision machine forced to run at varying power levels. So I started with the premise that it would be better to have constant energy.’  Romain Gauthier

Traditional chain and fusee

 

A fusee (‘fusée’ is French for cone) is a cone-shaped pulley wound with a cord or chain that is attached to the mainspring barrel.

Fusees have been used since 15th century to improve timekeeping by compensating for the diminishing torque/power of the mainspring as it ran down. 

  Fusee (the cone-shaped pulley on right) with chain

The first fusees used fine cord; however, as technology enabled the manufacture of ever-smaller chains, these replaced cords because chains transmit power more efficiently. But the traditional chain and fusee has two inherent problems:

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     1. The multiple layers of chain (often eight turns) on the fusee mean that the individual links have to be small, which means that they are relatively weak.

     2. The chain is often transmitting force between the fusee and mainspring barrel at an angle, which is both inefficient and adds stress.

 

Replacing the fusee with a snail cam

 

Romain Gauthier solved both problems by replacing the fusee with a slowly rotating snail cam, which is situated at 10 o’clock to the left of the hour/minutes dial.

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As the snail cam and mainspring barrel are on the same level, the force is always transmitted in a straight line and, as only one short line of chain is needed, the links can be bigger and stronger.

Ruby chain (patent pending)

To further improve efficiency, Romain Gauthier has taken full advantage of the larger chain links by making the links in low-friction hard-wearing synthetic rubies.

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And there is yet another innovation in the construction of the chain itself.

Romain Gauthier has replaced the traditional method of joining chain links, by placing a fine sheet of paper between the links and connecting plates, riveting them together and burning the paper away to create a fine (though imprecise) tolerance, with a snap clip system that offers high-precision, simplicity, reliability and consistency.

Winding with ergonomic pusher

Winding Logical One is a pleasure thanks to Romain Gauthier’s innovative push button winding system, with the pusher set neatly into the left caseband.

While the push-to-wind system is a pleasure to use, its advantages are not only ergonomic and aesthetic, but based on sound engineering principles.

A traditional crown is relative small with a fine (relatively fragile) stem that has to transmit the force 90° between the crown to the mainspring barrel. The pusher to wind Logical One transmits force to the barrel on the same plane.

Mainspring barrel with sapphire lining

As the mainspring unwinds in a traditional brass barrel, the metal of the spring scratches the metal, even when freshly greased. Over time, grease clots, scratches get rougher, the barrel sticks to the spring and does not rotate smoothly.

Sapphire plates

To eliminate this potential source of uneven friction, Romain Gauthier has placed mainspring of Logical One between synthetic sapphire plates.  Sapphire has the ideal properties of having a low coefficient of friction with steel − why watch movements have ruby bearings – and is highly scratch resistant – why it is used for watch crystals.

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Sapphire plates

To eliminate this potential source of uneven friction, Romain Gauthier has placed mainspring of Logical One between synthetic sapphire plates.  Sapphire has the ideal properties of having a low coefficient of friction with steel − why watch movements have ruby bearings – and is highly scratch resistant – why it is used for watch crystals.

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A world of details

• Bespoke gear wheels with graceful circular arms for maximum rigidity
• Special power-process hand frosted bridges
• High efficiency gear teeth profile (patent pending)
• Polished screw heads with distinctive S-slot for more length/less slip
• Balance wheel with curved arms and calibrated eccentric weights
• Triangular pallet lever (Romain Gauthier invention) for improved rigidity.

Movement & finishing
The movement for Logical One was entirely conceived, developed, designed, produced, decorated, assembled and regulated by Manufacture Romain Gauthier.

Highly polished sharp internal bevelled angles in the movement plates and bridges are the hallmark of superlative hand finishing because, to date, machines are not capable of milling and polishing sharp internal bevels.  With Logical One, Romain Gauthier has gone a step further still in creating double-angle bevels with sharp internal angles, which give the effect of border. 

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This distinctive eye-catching hand finish, created by using a two parallel bevels, has a similar effect to that of a frame around a beautiful painting, in that the frame highlights the artwork within.

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Romain Gauthier profile

Romain Gauthier was born in 1975 in Le Sentier, in the picturesque Vallée de Joux, at the heart of fine Swiss watchmaking. It was there that he developed a passion for traditional haute horlogerie blended with clean, contemporary design and innovative micro-engineering.  After studying precision-mechanics, Romain gained a diploma as a constructor of precision machinery. In 1997, he started his first job as machine programmer/operator and over the following years, Romain managed and grew the department into one of the best - equipped and most efficient production facilities in Europe.

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Determined to create his own watch brand, Romain completed an MBA in 2002. His final thesis – passed with distinction – was the business plan for Montres Romain Gauthier. He then began work on the timepieces themselves. "I knew that a good movement was the basis of everything I planned to build, so I started with that."

In 2005, after three years of working in secret, Romain launched his brand in Baselworld 2007 with the Prestige HM, featuring his own in-house manufacture movement.

The Prestige HMS followed in 2010, Logical one in 2013 and Logical one Secret in 2014.

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Technical Specifications

Special features
Gem setting:  181 invisibly set baguette diamonds, 6.9 carats total
Hours, minutes, small seconds, 60-hours power reserve,
Push-button winding and innovative chain-and-fusee style constant force system.
Limited Edition.

Case and strap
Diamonds: red gold cover invisibly set with 149 baguette diamonds IF to VVS/G+, 6.0 carats;
lugs invisibly set with 32 baguette diamonds quality IF to VVS/G+, 0.9 carats
Case materials: red gold
Movement plates and bridges: titanium, stainless steel, brass
Dimensions: 43mm x 15.9mm
Water resistance: 30m /3atm / 90ft
Sapphire crystal with anti-reflection coat front and display back
Winding by push button at 9 o’clock
Time-setting crown with sapphire cabochon at 2 o’clock
Cover open by push button at 4 o'clock
Strap and buckle: alligator leather hand-stitched in Switzerland with red gold pin buckle

Movement
In-house manufacture movement calibre
Dimensions: 35.5mm x 10.5mm
Power reserve:  circa 60-hours
Number of jewels: 36 in movement, 34 for chain
Number of components: 394
Balance frequency: 28,800 bph / 4Hz
Highest level haute horlogerie finishing,
including hand polished screws and jewel countersinks; hand bevelled and polished bridges and plates.
Four patents pending

* Specifications may change according to the artwork and case materials  

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LOCMAN – MONTECRISTO Cronograph Automatic

LOCMAN – MONTECRISTO Cronograph Automatic

  BASELWORLD - 2014

   LOCMAN PRESENTS
MONTECRISTO SELF-WINDING CHRONOGRAPH, THE FIRST CHRONOGRAPH DRIVEN BY A MECHANICAL MOVEMENT DEVELOPED BY THE SIO – ITALIAN SCHOOL OF WATCHMAKING

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For the creation of the first mechanical self-winding chronograph, the SIO – Italian School of Watchmaking, part of the LOCMAN group, was partnered by DePa Swiss Movements, an enterprise of Swiss artisans specialised in movement concept and development.

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The SIO – Italian School of Watchmaking was founded by Locman in 2006 with the intention of establishing a research centre and constant monitoring the quality of their watches. Over the years, SIO has certified and also developed the mechanisms of its major collections, partnering with companies for special projects.

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Marco Mantovani, LOCMAN Spa chairman, says: “We were able to develop a completely reliable, sturdy self-winding module. Our engineers also focused on the rotor weights so as to optimise the bidirectional winding stored by the self-winding mechanism for an average of up to about 50 hours.”

The oscillating weight is enhanced with a bright yellow shade and personalised with the LOCMAN ITALY logo. The calibre reference – SIO/DPch 88 – is indicated on the movement mainplate.

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After upgrading the Montecristo’s movement, the SIO engineers went one step further and also revisited the design, giving it some extra competitive edge. The dial features sunray-pattern enamelling, the minute counter is placed at 3 o’clock and the small seconds subdial at 9 o’clock, while the tachometric scale – absent in the quartz version – appears around the inner bezel ring of this model.

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The AISI 316L steel and titanium case is made of exclusively non-allergenic materials usually found in surgical instruments, and is topped by a flat glass with a special sapphire treatment to give the material a hardness comparable to that of natural sapphire as well as an exponential increase in its transparency. Tested waterresistant to 10 atmospheres, the Montecristo Crono case is attached to the silicon or hi-tech Lorica strap by the distinctive triple-bar lugs.

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History

LOCMAN was founded in 1986 by Marco Mantovani. In 1997, LOCMAN decided to give up producing watches for other brands and to launch its first own-name line of original models.
LOCMAN aims to occupy a niche market with products featuring innovative designs, but distinguished by high-quality craftsmanship and refinement, in order to meet the demands of a category of consumers looking for original, exclusive and trendy products.
Thanks to the Linea Sport in 1999 and to the DIAMOND-Alluminio models in 2000, which featured a tonneau-shaped aluminium case with a non-allergenic strap in Lorica, timepieces by Locman Italy have become cult models featuring a striking blend of ambition and casual confidence that have earned them favour among the greatest international celebrities.

Today, the LOCMAN group is one of the major players in the Italian watch industry. The mother company is LOCMAN Spa, which has headquarters in Tuscany, on the island of Elba, and a network of offices spread between Florence, Milan and New York.
The heart of LOCMAN watches beats in Elba, where ideas are born and technical and commercial strategies are developed. The other production phases take place in Milan, within the Genesi industrial facility, considered to be the most efficient and modern laboratory in the Italian watch business. Meanwhile, the communication strategy and relations with the mass media are handled by Marchio Giallo, the Locman Group’s in-house advertising agency.

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Contact Methods
    info@locman.it
    Tel: +39 0565.979003
    Fax: +39 0565.979707
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