Laurent Ferrier - Galet Traveller NEW
A long-term vision
The son and grandson of watchmakers,
Laurent Ferrier, the emblematic figure of the brand that bears his name,
is profoundly attached to the excellence of traditional watchmaking
crafts. His lengthy experience in the fields of horological design,
technical research and watch exteriors vividly demonstrate both his
assiduity and his inventive nature.
A dream come true
In 2010, Laurent Ferrier presented the
first model bearing his signature: “I nurtured a dream of making watches
that represent my horological values: simplicity, precision and pure,
uncluttered beauty. These values guide my choices in terms of both
design and technical characteristics.” He develops his own watches, from
conception through to production and in doing so is backed by his son
Christian, a guarantee of continuity.
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BaselWorld 2013: the Galet Traveller tames the hours of the world
Distances are shrinking as travellers circle the globe at ever
greater speed. The plane whisks us in a few hours to another continent,
to the heart of another culture, to another moment of the day or night.
Rio yesterday, Moscow today, Sydney tomorrow. Long-haul planes
criss-cross the oceans and straddle time zones. Fortunately, watchmaking
is there, as loyal and accurate as ever.
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It puts landmarks in place,
punctuating time to enable us to keep a foothold in temporal reality.
With the
Galet Traveller,
Laurent Ferrier offers a chance to cross time
zones by one smooth move on the wrist. Pressing a push-button brings the
time zone up to date. The
Galet Traveller thus adopts all the hours on
the planet in a single manoeuvre.
Time around the world
It was not until the end of the 19th century that world time established
itself universally. The need to harmonise time between various
geographical locations made itself felt with the development of the
maritime travel and the railways. In
1884, the Earth was officially
divided into 24 time zones at the International Meridian Conference in
Washington. Greenwich Mean Time became the time reference throughout the
world for most of the 20th century, before being replaced by UTC
(Coordinated Universal Time) based on the Earth’s rotation.
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Time zones, corresponding to the division of the surface of the Earth
into various zones living according to the same hours, time zones
stretch from the North to the South pole and are marked off by two
meridians 15° apart. One hour is detracted or added for each time zone
crossed from East to West or in the opposite direction. Thus, if it is
noon at Greenwich, the 0 meridian, it is 3 pm in Moscow three time zones
eastwards. While this system did not initially meet with unanimous
approval, it is now vital to the smooth functioning of our planet.
Time zones are not always stable. Several reasons may influence
chances, such as adjustment to “summer” or Daylight Saving Time (DST),
or the desire to standardise time over an extremely broad territory. But
one thing is for sure: the mission of globalising time that time zones
were designed to serve has indeed been accomplished.
A useful complication
The
Galet Traveller helps its user get his bearings within this world
time. A dual-time display is an extremely useful complication when
travelling. This new watch was developed with the aim of ensuring
extremely smooth handling, while also ensuring visual balance,
readability and performance in all circumstances – all values dear to
Laurent Ferrier.
Positioned perfectly geometrically and delicately integrated on the
left side of the case, two oblong push-buttons are pressed to modify
local time indicated by a central hand. These two buttons at 8 and 10
o’clock are subtly integrated into the case middle so as to follow the
harmonious curve of this solid gold “pebble”. Only a tiny notch designed
for a fingernail forms a tiny protruding edge in order to facilitate
handling. When moving from one time zone to another, the central hour
hand indicating local time may be moved forwards or backwards, in
one-hour increments, by successive presses.
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Pressing the upper
push-button advances the hand by one hour, while pressing the lower
push-button moves it backwards, all without affect the minutes hand. On a
flight from Geneva to New York, the traveller will thus simply need to
press the lower push-button six times to ensure the watch is set to
exact local time upon landing.
In addition to this fast local-time adjustment, the date, appearing in
a window at 3 o’clock, is automatically modified when the hand passes
midnight, thus spontaneously adapting to transitions between the various
time zones. The window at 9 o’clock maintains the reference or home
time. Thanks to its 24-hour display, it is easy to check whether it is
day or night in one’s place of residence even from the other side of the
world.
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Perfect readability
The
Galet Traveller developed by
Laurent Ferrier ensures smooth
continuity in the watchmaking journey of the House. This same spirit of
functionality, as well as readability and aesthetic appeal already
present in the other models from the brand. The solid white or red gold
pebble-shaped case – that has become a brand signature – recalls the
pocket watches of yesteryear. The winding crown is as round and
generously sized as ever, and the gold hands retain their characteristic
shape. The extremely slender hour-markers and the two bevelled
apertures ensure optimal readability.
Laurent Ferrier thereby once again
proves its ability to find the perfect balance between a strongly
identifiable neoclassical design on the one hand, and tried and tested
efficiency on the other.
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The silver-toned, midnight blue or slate grey dial alternates between
two aesthetic finishes: vertical satin-brushed finish in the centre and
circular satin-brushed around the outside. A transferred minute circle
punctuates the circumference with ten white gold, red gold or
white-painted hour-markers, with two at 12 o’clock. In the two
apertures, one at 3 o’clock for the date and the other at 9 o’clock for
home time, the Arabic numerals are painted in black. The seconds counter
at 6 o’clock is hollowed and bevelled. The gold central hands sweeping
over the dial are “assegai-shaped” for the hours and minutes and
baton-type for the seconds. This extremely graphical dial in which every
detail has its own importance, display a distinct family likeness with
the rest of the
Laurent Ferrier collection.
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moscow, Sydney, New York or Rio de Janeiro: the new
Galet Traveller adopts all the hours on the planet. This year, Laurent
Ferrier presents a dual-time function, a so-called useful complication
that is extremely simple to operate. This watch crosses the world’s
various time zones at a single press, while ensuring a blend of
readability and performance.
Subtly integrated into the left-hand side of the
case, two oblong pushbuttons serve to move the local time indicated by
the central hand either backwards or forwards. Along with this fast time
correction, the date appearing in a window at 3 o’clock is
automatically modified each time the hand passes midnight, thus adapting
to the transitions between various time zones, while the reference or
‘home’ time continues to appear through the 9 o’clock aperture. Thanks
to its 24-hour display mode, it is easy to keep track of whether it is
day or night at home, even from the other side of the world.
Visually speaking, the Galet Traveller guarantees
authentic readability thanks to its pure aesthetic. The case is in white
or red gold. The solid silver dial in silver-toned, midnight blue or
slate grey variations features two alternating decorative effects:
vertical satin-brushed in the centre and circular satin-brushed around
the outside.
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The Galet Traveller houses a self-winding calibre
belonging to the famous line of micro-rotor movements with natural
escapement. It is combined with the dual time-zone adjustment mechanism
as well as the date. This integrated complication took a full two years
to develop, since each component is an integral part of the global
construction of the case calibre.
This innovative horological architecture,
complemented by the natural escapement, ensures the excellent winding
force of the micro-rotor. Its efficiency is far superior to the majority
of standard escapements and above all very stable over the long term –
an asset that significantly contributes to the exceptionally accurate
rate of this chronometer certified by Besançon Observatory.
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A finely tuned movement
The
Galet Traveller houses self-winding
Calibre LF 230.01, from the
famous line of Micro-Rotor movements with natural escapement. It
incorporates the dual time-zone adjustment mechanism as well as the
date. This useful complication, that took a full two years to develop,
is fully integrated and each part is an integral part of the global
architecture of the base calibre.
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As with the previous developments,
LF Calibre 230.01 features a
pawl-fitted micro-rotor unidirectional winding system, backed by a
double direct-impulse natural escapement. The latter, devised by
Abraham-Louis Breguet in the late 18th century, is now made using modern
technologies that contribute to the exceptional precision of
Laurent
Ferrier watches. The major distinctive feature of this natural
escapement lies in the fact that two impulses are directly imparted to
the balance with each oscillation. Its excellent efficiency guarantees a
high amplitude for the balance operating at a frequency of 21,600
vibrations per hour.
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Laurent Ferrier uses a silicon pallet-lever for its lightness and its
self-lubricating properties, as well as escape-wheels in a phosphorous
nickel alloy known for its extreme hardness, all made using LIGA
technology. The main advances of these cutting-edge materials lies in
the resulting perfect surface states, as well as strong resistance to
both wear and corrosion.
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The micro-rotor is in engine-turned 18K gold.
It is fitted with a “silent bloc” shock-absorbing system similar to
chassis mounting rubbers. The winding device is offset and fitted on the
mainplate between two bridges, and fixed between two jewels. This
reduces the thickness of the movement and provides a clear view of the
construction, while ensuring maximum stability compared with a
conventional oscillating weight.
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This innovative horological architecture, complemented by the natural
escapement, serves to achieve a one-third increase in the winding force
of the micro-rotor and thus to achieve an 80-hour power reserve. Its
efficiency is thus far superior to the majority of classic escapements
and is above all extremely stable over the long term – an asset that
significantly contributes to the exceptionally accurate rate of this
chronometer certified by Besançon Observatory.
CALIBRE LF 230.01
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Sophisticated finishing
The decoration and finishing of the movement are in keeping with the
finest watchmaking traditions. The sapphire crystal case-back of the
Galet Traveller provides a fine view of the finesse of this workmanship.
In addition to the Côtes de Genève motif adorning the bridges and the
circular-graining of the mainplate, the sides are manually chamfered and
the screw heads are polished. The authenticity of the hand chamfering
is perceptible in the clean cut of the interior angles that no machine
can achieve and which demonstrate the authenticity of the watchmaking
art as exercised by
Laurent Ferrier.
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Technical Characteristics
Movement:
- Self-winding Calibre LF230.01 chronometer-certified by Besançon Observatory
- Off-centred micro-rotor in 18K solid gold with pawl-fitted
unidirectional winding, fixed between the mainplate and the bridge of
the micro-rotor and equipped with a “silent bloc” shock-absorbing system
- Natural escapement with double direct-impulse directly on the balance
- Silicon pallet-lever with self-lubricating properties,
escape-wheels in a phosphorous nickel alloy, produced according to LIGA
technology.
- Indications: hours, minutes, small seconds at 6 o’clock, date at 3 o’clock home time/reference time at 9 o’clock.
- Correctors: crown for winding and time-setting and, on the left
side of the case, two push-buttons (+) and (-) respectively positioned
at 10 and 8 o’clock, to adjust the time hour per hour with automatic
date correction.
- Stop-seconds function
- Diameter: 14’’’ ( Ø 31.60 mm)
- Thickness: 5,80 mm
- Frequency: 3Hz (21,600 vibrations per hour)
- Power reserve: 80 hours
- 288 parts
- 44 jewels
Case:
- 18K/750 5N red gold or 210Pd non-rhodium plated white gold
- Three parts: case middle, bezel and snap-on case-back
- Size: Ø 41 mm (49 mm including the lugs)
- Thickness: of the material 10 mm / including the sapphire crystal 12.64 mm
- Domed sapphire crystals, front and back
- Water-resistant to 30 metres
- “Ball-shaped” crown in 18K/750 5N red gold or 210Pd 18K white gold
Dial:
- Silver-toned, midnight blue or slate grey 925 Ag solid silver,
vertical satin-brushed finish in the centre surrounded by circular
satin-brushed motif
- “Teardrop” hour-markers in 18K/750 red gold, 210Pd white gold or white-painted
- Minute track around the dial circumference
- Bevelled date window at 3 o’clock
- Small seconds counter at 6 o’clock
- Dual time-zone aperture at 9 o’clock
Hands:
- 18K gold
- Hours and minutes: “assegai-shaped”
- Seconds: baton-type with counterweight ou counterpoised baton-type
Strap:
- Hand-sewn black or chestnut brown alligator leather, Alcantara lining
- 16 mm pin buckle or double-blade folding clasp, in 18K/750 5N red gold or 210 Pd white gold
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