Wednesday, September 24, 2014

A. Lange & Sohne – Saxonia LANGEMATIK PERPETUAL White Gold


A. Lange & Söhne Saxonia LANGEMATIK PERPETUAL White Gold NEW

LANGEMATIK PERPETUAL
Debut with white-gold case and black dial

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The LANGEMATIK PERPETUAL was created for people who expect technical progress to make life more convenient. Now, Lange’s first self-winding wristwatch with a perpetual calendar and an outsize date is being presented in a new version: the combination of a white-gold case and a black dial gives the LANGEMATIK PERPETUAL a stately presence.

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The LANGEMATIK PERPETUAL was the world’s first wristwatch with a self-winding movement to incorporate a perpetual calendar with an outsize date. The perpetual calendar displays the date, the day of the week, and the month; it recognises the different number of days in each month and even the leap years. Once correctly set, the date display needs only to be corrected by one day every hundred years.

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The moon-phase display is a paragon of precision as well. It deviates from the true position of the moon by merely one day every 122.6 years, assuming the watch runs without interruption. To make it as user-friendly as possible, the calendar displays can be advanced collectively or individually.

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The LANGEMATIK PERPETUAL owes its prominent appearance to the elegant white-gold case combined with a black, solid-silver dial that delivers an abundance of information at a single glance. The luminous hands and the rhodiumed-gold appliques clearly stand out against the dark background.

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A black crocodile strap and a white-gold prong buckle take the theme of vivid contrasts a step further.

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The heart of the LANGEMATIK PERPETUAL is the proven self-winding Sax-0-Mat calibre with the patented Zero-Reset mechanism. When the crown is pulled, the seconds hand jumps to the zero position, thus simplifying the synchronisation of the watch. The bidirectionally winding rotor in 21-carat gold with a platinum centrifugal mass builds up the maximum power reserve of 46 hours after only a short time on the wrist.

A. Lange & Sohne – Calibre L922.1 SAX-0-MAT

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Numerous details of the meticulously finished movement can be admired through the sapphire-crystal caseback.

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It reveals the three-quarter plate made of untreated German silver, the classic screw balance, and the hand-engraved balance cock with the whiplash precision index adjuster.

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The exclusive timepiece will be presented for the first time on 23 September 2014, when the first Lange boutique in Moscow is inaugurated.
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Technical Specifications

Reference №: 310.026

Movement: Lange manufacture caliber:  L922.1 SAX-0-MAT
self-winding, crafted to the most exacting Lange quality standards, decorat-ed and assembled by hand; precision-adjusted in five posi-tions;
three-quarter plate made of untreated German silver with integrated three-quarter rotor in 21-carat gold and centrifugal mass in platinum, reversing and reduction gear with four ball bearings;
balance cock engraved by hand
Number of parts movement/jewels:   478
Escapement: 
Lever escapement
Oscillator:  
Shock-resistant screw balance, Nivarox® balance spring*,
fre-quency of 21,600 semi-oscillations per hour,
whiplash precision index adjuster with patented beat-adjustment mechanism
Power reserve:
46 hours when fully wound
Functions:  
Time display with hours and minutes,
subsidiary seconds with stop seconds and patented ZERO-RESET function;
perpetual calendar with date, day of the week, month, moon phase and leap year;
day/night indicator
Operating elements:
Crown for winding the watch and setting the time;
a recessed main push piece for simultaneously advancing all calendar dis-plays;
recessed corrector buttons for individually advancing the day, the month, and the moon phase
Case dimensions:
Diameter: 38.5 millimetres; height: 10.2 millimetres
Movement dimensions:
Diameter: 30.4 millimetres; height: 5.7 millimetres
Crystal and back:
Sapphire crystal (Mohs hardness 9)
Dial:
Solid silver, black
Case:
White gold
Strap:
Hand-stitched crocodile strap, black
Clasp:
Lange prong buckle in white gold
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Contact information for the media
Arnd Einhorn, Director Press and PR
* Tel.: +49 (0)35053 44 5505
* E-mail: presse@lange-soehne.com
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Tuesday, September 23, 2014

VOUTILAINEN – Hisui


VOUTILAINENHisui Limited Edition

Artistic Timepieces

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One of the greatest lacquer studios of Japan, Unryuan, under the guidance of Mr. T. Kitamura, creates works of lacquer art that stand at the pinnacle of Japanese tradition, bringing a craft that has existed for hundreds of years into the present and exemplifying the passion to preserve the soul, spirit and identity of traditional Japanese culture as expressed in the Edo period.


 Unryuan Kitamura Tatsuo (b. 1952)

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This kind of artwork made hundreds of years ago is with us still today. It can be restored and remains like new even when the lacquer is touched and manipulated by human hands. This superlative work engages us immediately on a physical level and one can only gape in awe at the commitment, patience and dedication involved in creating these works of art.

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The masterpiece shown here features lacquering techniques requiring well over a thousand hours of work to complete the dial and bridges. The raw materials for its creation are: Kinpun (gold dust), Jyunkin-itakane (gold leaf), Yakou-gai (shell of great green turban) and Awabi-gai (abalone shell from New Zealand).

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This bespoke watch is inspired by Emerald and Jade precious stones, which is in fact what the name Hisui means.

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This symbiosis of Japanese tradition with the Swiss haute horlogerie creations of Kari Voutilainen represents an all-embracing mechanical and visual work of art that unites East and West in perfect harmony.

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Technical Characteristics

Model: Voutilainen Hisui

Movement:
Unique, in-house designed movement with hours and minutes.
Pure German silver main plate and bridges made from German silver and titanium with Art decoration made by the legendary Japanese lacquer studio Unryuan.
New direct impulse escapement with two escapement wheels.
Wheels in rose gold.
Balance:
Free sprung balance (with Grossman interior curve and Philips exterior curve, beating at 18,000 vph). Diameter of balance wheel is 13.60mm.
Jewels: 21
Hands: Gold and steel, handmade
Dial:
Unique art piece created by the legendary Japanese lacquer studio Unryuan
Movement size: ø 30.00 mm x 5.60 mm
Case size: ø 39.00 mm
Additionals:
Platinum case, sapphire glass front and back, with anti reflection treatment.
Matching 18K white gold tang buckle with alligator strap.
Limited to 1 unique piece.

All manufacturing, construction, fabrication, hand finishing and assembly in the Voutilainen workshop.

--------------------------
Kari Voutilainen
Voutilainen Horlogerie d’Art
Comblémine 2
2112 Môtiers | Switzerland
Tél +41 32 861 4832
Fax +41 32 861 4833
voutilainen@voutilainen.ch
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Voutilainen.ch

Monday, September 22, 2014

MB&F – Horological Machine HM5 CarbonMacrolon














MB&FHorological Machine No. 5 CarbonMacrolon Limited Edition

THE DARK SIDE HAS NEVER LOOKED SO BRIGHT

SUMMARY 

Black. As a colour, or to be more accurate, an absence of colour, there's nothing quite like it. Other colours go in and out of fashion, but black is always in. So adding a coat of black paint, a.k.a. PVD, to the case of the super-car-inspired HM5 would appear to be the sensible thing to do.
But since when has MB&F taken the sensible route?
While Horological Machine No.5’s striking, angular case architecture faithfully echoes the form of the streamlined supercars that inspired it, those sharp corners would make a black PVD coating more susceptible to being scratched than a more conventional design.

But since when has MB&F taken the sensible route?
While Horological Machine No.5’s striking, angular case architecture faithfully echoes the form of the streamlined supercars that inspired it, those sharp corners would make a black PVD coating more susceptible to being scratched than a more conventional design.
So rather than take the easier path of adding a black PVD coat to the existing HM5 case, MB&F went in search of a solid black material that:
  • Could be polished and finished like metal. 
  • Felt as solid and substantial as metal. 
  • Was as hard as steel. 
Unfortunately, no material with those properties existed. So MB&F asked a specialist supplier to develop one. 

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It took a full 18 months, but they finally did: MB&F calls it CarbonMacrolon. CarbonMacrolon is a dense black polycarbonate resin reinforced with carbon nanotubes. It can be polished and finished like steel, feels as solid as steel and is as hard as steel. And it is black right through, so no surface coatings to scratch off.
Horological Machine No5 CarbonMacrolon (HM5 CM): Super car styling; bi-directional jumping hours, compartmentalised Engine in its own water-resistant inner case; functioning louvres allowing light in to charge the Super-LumiNova indication discs; and water-draining exhaust ports.
All this in a sleek, polished and satinised, pitch-black CarbonMacrolon case with an eye-catching iridescent purple automatic winding rotor and complementary purple highlights around the displays. Black, it’s the new black.

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MAKROLON

It’s no exaggeration to state that when Bayer introduced the revolutionary polycarbonate material Makrolon® in 1963, it changed the world. The virtually unbreakable material is used in an incredible range of diverse applications including CDs, water-resistant camera housings, medical devices, contact lenses, sunglasses, laptop cases, aircraft wing and fuselage components, canopies for jets and helicopter windscreens. With its high dimensional stability, excellent heat resistance, ease of moulding, long life and eco-friendly reusability, Makrolon® quickly became, and still is, one of the most versatile thermoplastics ever invented.

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CARBONMACROLON
Developed specifically for MB&F, CarbonMacrolon is a composite material composed of an anthracite polymer matrix injected with carbon nanotubes, which add strength and rigidity. Carbon nanotubes offer superior tensile strength and stiffness than traditional carbon fibre reinforcing. MB&F’s CarbonMacrolon is a solid black material that is heavy, hard, and can be polished and finished like metal.

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INSPIRATION AND REALISATION

For MB&F founder Maximilian Büsser, growing up as a child in the 1970s meant living in a constant state of awe and wonder. Supersonic jets flew through the air and through space; American muscle cars dominated the silver screen in road movies and fuelled the imagination.
The Lamborghini Miura launched a new genre of Italian super cars that looked as though they could break the sound barrier while standing still (creations that led the young Max to dream of being a car designer). Lasers, transistors, microwaves, hovercrafts and jet-packs gave the impression that the difference between science fiction and science fact was just a matter of when, not if.

And with the arrival of quartz wristwatches, watch designs were transformed from looking like something your grandfather wore, to something Captain Kirk might wear. HM5 takes these childhood dreams and gives them a new lease of life.
“Imagine telling somebody in 1972 that in 2012, most people would be wearing round watches with round dials and three hands. That would sound crazier and more far-fetched than the idea of living on Mars!” Maximilian Büsser

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CASE
The wedge-shaped case of HM5 has unmistakable references to the low-slung supercars of the epoch.
The purpose of the louvres on these awe-inspiring cars was to restrict sunlight (and heat) from entering the near horizontal rear window. The functional louvres on HM5 do the opposite in that they open to allow light down onto the Super-LumiNova numbers on the hours and minutes indication disks to charge them. The disks are actually flat on top of the movement (under the louvres), not vertically at the front of the case where they appear to be thanks to some optical magic. Opening and closing the louvres also changes the dial’s light intensity. The louvres are opened and closed by a slide set into the side of the case.
Another distinguishing feature of supercars are large dual exhaust pipes that are usually seen accompanied by a roar of engine noise and smoking rubber. But HM5’s exhausts are not there to expel combustion gases in a throaty roar, but to drain water in case – like James Bond’s Lotus in ‘The Spy Who Loved Me’ – HM5 gets wet.

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And no futurist icon of the 1970s is complete without a jet. HM5’s ergonomically sculptured crown looks as though it could just as easily power a rocket to the Alpha Centauri, or the Batmobile, as it powers Horological Machine No. 5 CarbonMacrolon into the future.
To minimise potential damage, the crown winding stem is guided by three radial bearings, ensuring it can only be pulled/pushed when perpendicular to the movement.

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INDICATIONS AND REFLECTIVE PRISM

The actual hour and minute time displays on HM5, i.e. the numbered rotating disks, are relatively simple: overlapping disks (one for hours, one for minutes) are completely covered in Super-LumiNova, which then has large 8mm numerals created by masking all of the lume except for the numbers.
The disks rotate flat on top of the movement and yet we see the time indications vertically in a ‘dashboard’ at the front of the case. To achieve this, MB&F worked with a high-precision optical glass supplier to develop a sapphire crystal reflective prism that bent light from the disks 90° as well as magnify it by 20% to maximise legibility.

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The sapphire prism is wedge-shaped with the angles precisely calculated to ensure that light is reflected from the horizontal indications to the vertical rather than refracted (bent). A convex lens at the front provides the magnification. Sapphire crystal is much more difficult to work to optical precision than glass and it took considerable development and meticulous care in production to create crystals that reflected and bent light without the slightest distortion.
Because the time is reflected, the numbers are printed on the disks as mirror images so that they display correctly on the ‘dial’. The glass on the front is not black but dark-tinted so that it is possible to see time arriving and departing and the numbers have an iridescent purple outline, reminiscent of the glowing instruments of a supercar on a high-speed road trip at night.
The vertical forward-facing display makes HM5 an excellent driver’s watch as there is no need to lift your wrist from the steering wheel to read the display.

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ENGINE AND INTERNAL HOUSING
As with any supercar, the best often lies under the hood and looking below the surface of the Horological Machine No. 5 CarbonMacrolon case reveals a surprise: another case! Like a Russian Matryoshka doll, peeling away the outer layer reveals a second case beneath.
The reason for housing the Engine in an inner container is for water resistance. Those supercar louvres let in water as well as light − the reason for those dual exhaust ports – so to protect the high-performance Engine from moisture as well as shocks, it is housed in its own stainless steel shell. This inner case is similar to the ridged chassis of a car on which the external coachwork/body is attached.

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Jean-François Mojon, Vincent Boucard and their team at Chronode developed the HM5 Engine/complication. It may appear simple, but it’s complicated! The jumping hours are bi-directional, enabling the time to be easily set both forwards and backwards. The two mineral glass disks of the hours and minutes are supported by a flat wide bridge. The disks overlap as much as possible to maximise their diameter and space for large legible numerals.
Turning HM5 CM over reveals the Engine, with its stunning iridescent purple 22k gold battle-axe shaped ‘mystery’ winding rotor, fast oscillating balance and stunning hand-finished bridges, visible through the sapphire crystal display back set into the water-resistant Engine container.

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TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS

ENGINE (Movement)
Three-dimensional horological engine developed by Jean-François Mojon and Vincent
Boucard
of Chronode
Powered by a Sowind gear train
Iridescent purple 22k gold battle-axe ‘mystery’ automatic winding rotor
Power reserve: 42 hours
Balance frequency: 28,800bph/4Hz
Number of components: 224
Number of jewels: 30
Engine housed in a water-resistant, stainless steel inner container
FUNCTIONS / INDICATIONS
Minutes and bi-directional jumping hours displayed by reflective sapphire crystal prism
with integrated magnifying lens
Slide to open/close louvres on case top
CASE
CarbonMacrolon with internal water-resistant steel engine container
Slide button to open/close louvres
Exhaust ports to drain water
Dimensions: 51.5mm x 49mm x 22.5mm
Number of components: 80
Water resistance of engine container: 30m / 90’ / 3atm
SAPPHIRE CRYSTALS
High domed sapphire crystal on top and box sapphire crystal on back,
both with anti-reflective coating on both sides.
Strap & Buckle

Sculpted rubber strap, titanium tang buckle

Limited to 66 pieces only

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Saturday, September 20, 2014

DuBois et fils – DBF002 Exclusive Unique Timepiece











DuBois et filsDBF002 Exclusive Unique Timepiece

Unique Timepiece from Luxury Watchmaker DuBois et fils is 'Going Under the Hammer'

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DuBois et fils is auctioning off an exclusive prototype of the DBF002 on its own website.

Le Locle, 18 September 2014 – The Swiss luxury watchmaker DuBois et fils periodically auctions off exclusive timepieces on its website (www.duboisfils.ch). The first timepiece to be offered on auction is an absolute rarity: the prototype of DBF002. 'With this worldwide unique piece, we strengthened our credo 'luxury is to be one of a few' and raised it to a new level – yet in this case‚ Luxury is to be the only one', says Thomas Steinemann, CEO of DuBois et fils.



















The Swiss heritage brand appears to have captured the current Zeitgeist with its conviction that true luxury will in the future be synonymous with limited availability. Within the first ten days of the auction, already 17 watch aficionados have placed bids to win this beautiful, unique item. The current high bid is CHF 3,700.
The auction ends on 30 September 2014 at 22:00. The entire proceeds will this time again go into the account of the DuBois et fils charity account, with which the company sustainably supports its own aid project, DBF Social.

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The case of the DBF002 prototype is comprised of high-quality stainless steel 316L (42 mm diameter) and is waterproof up to 5 ATM. It houses an automatic basic calibre CFW 99001-DD with a chronograph mechanism.

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This ensures the highest precision and reliability. Under the scratch-proof, double sided anti-reflective coated sapphire crystal is a guilloche dial.

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The chosen colour scheme – orange accents on a blue dial – lends the DBF002 prototype a dynamic note and is reminiscent of great classic watches. A 9-link band, made from high-quality stainless steel 316L, with a pressure snap flip-lock punctuates the discreet luxury and distinguished elegance of this timepiece.

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Friday, September 19, 2014

A. Lange & Söhne – RICHARD LANGE - Perpetual Calendar “Terraluna” History


A. Lange & SöhneRICHARD LANGE - Perpetual Calendar TerralunaHistory

A breath of history
The RICHARD LANGE PERPETUAL CALENDAR “Terraluna” and its historic role model
 
There are timepieces whose fascination persists for centuries. Chronometer No.93 crafted by Dresden watchmaker Johann Heinrich Seyffert in 1807 is one of them. His unusual regulator dial inspired the design of the RICHARD LANGE PERPETUAL CALENDAR “Terraluna.

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Three rings in a pyramid-shaped arrangement characterise the prominent regulator dial of the RICHARD LANGE PERPETUAL CALENDAR “Terraluna. The striking design with a separate display for each unit of time dates back to a historic role model: the gold pocket watch No. 93 from the workshop of eminent Saxon watchmaker Johann Heinrich Seyffert.

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The three overlapping circles on its enamel dial indicate the minutes at the top as well as the hours and seconds at the bottom. Today, the watch is on display at the Mathematics and Physics Salon, where Seyffert worked as an inspector from 1801 until 1817.

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At the time, Seyffert was one of the most notable protagonists of precision watchmaking in Saxony. With his achievements and inventions in the domain of chronometry, he deserves credit for furthering an evolution that culminated in the establishment of the first Glashütte watchmaking company by Ferdinand A. Lange in 1845. Apart from members of the Saxon court, his customers also included the likes of Alexander von Humboldt, who relied on a Seyffert pocket chronometer during his noteworthy expedition to South America.

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What the RICHARD LANGE PERPETUAL CALENDAR “Terraluna shares with Seyffert’s approach to horology is the quest for the ultimate in precision. Technically, it explores new dimensions.

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The precisely-jumping displays of its perpetual calendar are integrated into the dial just as harmoniously as the power-reserve indicator and the first Lange outsize date to be featured in a model of the Richard Lange watch family. The movement side is no less spectacular than the dial.

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There, the patented orbital moon-phase display tracks the position of the moon relative to the earth and the sun.

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-------------------------------------------
Contact information for the media
Arnd Einhorn, Director Press and PR
* Tel.: +49 (0)35053 44 5505
* E-mail: presse@lange-soehne.com
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ARNOLD & SON – TE8 Tourbillon

















ARNOLD & SONRoyal Collection TE8 Tourbillon Limited Edition NEW

Timeless elegance, handcraft and innovative technology:
Arnold & Son’s TE8
Tourbillon

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True to English watchmaking heritage, Arnold & Son unveils two new references of its TE8 Tourbillon, with the hand-finished A&S8000 calibre. This defining timepiece heralds in the Royal Collection that combines classic styling with leading-edge technology.

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TE8 
Exclusive Arnold & Son tourbillon movement A&S8000, hand-wound, black open dial,
18-carat white gold case, diameter 44 mm
© Arnold & Son

The tourbillon is one of the most elegant and inspired complications in the history of watchmaking. As simple in principle as it is difficult to make, the mechanism was designed to eliminate the errors of rate caused by gravity on a pocket watch carried in a vertical position.

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Weighing mere fractions of a gram, it consists of a mobile cage that contains all the parts of the escapement, with the balance at the centre. The cage completes one revolution around its own axis every minute, thus ensuring that the balance wheel oscillates at different positions in the course of its 360° journey and that the rate remains as constant as possible.

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TE8
Exclusive Arnold & Son tourbillon movement A&S8000, hand-wound, anthracite open dial,
18-carat red gold case, diameter 44 mm

© Arnold & Son

The TE8 Tourbillon heralds the Royal Collection that combines classical styling with innovative, state-of-the-art technology. The letters “TE” stand for tourbillon escapement. Some of its more distinctive features are obvious at first glance. Compared with other more conventional tourbillons found today, the TE8’s movement is said to be “inverted”: in other words, most of the technical elements and visually interesting features can be seen on the dial side, when they would normally be hidden away on the reverse.

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The timepiece also boasts a number of typically English technical idiosyncrasies that will interest even the most discerning watch connoisseur. Take the symmetrical layout of the movement, for instance: the barrel spring and the tourbillon cage are centred along the watch’s longitudinal axis. The main jewels are hold by screwed gold chatons. They are a reminiscence of the finest Haute Horlogerie mechanical watches of the good old days and contribute to the beauty of the movement.

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TE8
Exclusive Arnold & Son tourbillon movement A&S8000, hand-wound, anthracite open dial,
18-carat whitegold case, diameter 44 mm

© Arnold & Son

In addition to their esthetical appeal, gold chatons also allow to replace damaged jewels without modifying the boreholes in the plates and bridges. A closer examination of the winding system and the gear train reveals a traditional construction used in high-end pocket watches that involves the use of “wolf-teeth”, an asymmetrical tooth system featuring both long and narrow spokes used primarily to improve the smoothness of the overall movement and to enhance its elegant design.

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From an aesthetic point of view, however, the feature that sets Arnold & Son’s TE8 Tourbillon apart is its singularly English design. Some of the more obvious elements include the meticulously positioned three-quarter barrel bridge with its large wave-shaped cut-out and a lavish decoration unique to Arnold & Son, the triangular tourbillon and motion-work bridges, and the three-spoke design of the wheels, which are shaped with such distinctive flair.

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Needless to say, every detail of this striking piece, such as the black and brushed polishing, bevelling and movement decoration, is painstakingly hand-finished by Arnold & Son’s master watchmakers.

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A&S8000
© Arnold & Son

This unique tourbillon timepiece will be produced in a limited edition of 25 pieces of each version, in a 44 mm 18-carat white gold and 18-carat red gold case with either a movement with NAC grey treated bridges and black ruthenium treated main plate or rhodium treated bridges and NAC grey treated main plate. Each watch case is individually numbered and engraved.

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Technical Characteristics

References: 1SJAR.G01A.C112A 18-carat Red Gold Case
References: 1SJAW.B02A.C113A 18-carat White Gold Case

Calibre:                                  
A&S8000
Exclusive Arnold & Son mechanical movement tourbillon movement,
Hand-wound, 19 jewels, diameter 32.6 mm, thickness 6.25 mm,
Power reserve 80 h, 21,600 vibrations/h
Functions:
Hours, minutes, tourbillon
Movement decoration:
  • 18-carat white gold case model:
nickel-silver movement, NAC grey treated bridges and black ruthenium
treated main plate with superlative Haute Horlogerie finishing: hand-
chamfered bridges with polished edges, fine circular graining and A&S
specific waves decoration, circular satin-finished wheels with hand-
chamfered and polished edges, screwed gold chatons, mirror-polished
tourbillon cage and bridge, screws with bevelled and mirror-polished heads
  • 18-carat red gold case model:
nickel-silver movement, rhodium treated bridges and NAC grey treated
main plate with superlative Haute Horlogerie finishing: hand-chamfered
bridges with polished edges, fine circular graining and A&S specific waves
decoration, circular satin-finished wheels with hand-chamfered and
polished edges, screwed gold chatons, mirror-polished tourbillon cage and
bridge, screws with bevelled and mirror-polished heads

Dial:  
Black or anthracite open dial
Case:   
18-carat white gold or 18-carat red gold, diameter 44 mm,
Cambered sapphire with anti-reflective coating on both sides,
Case back see-through sapphire,
Water-resistant to 30 m
Strap:
Hand-stitched black or brown alligator leather
Water resistance:
30 Meters
Limited edition: 25 timepieces

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 ARNOLD & SON SA
Marketing & Sales
Boulevard des Eplatures 38
CH – 2300 La Chaux-de-Fonds
Switzerland
info@arnoldandson.com
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