Friday, July 13, 2018

F.P.Journe – SOUVERAINE Tourbillon Souverain Régence Circulaire Edition















F.P.JourneSOUVERAINE Tourbillon Souverain Régence Circulaire 18K Red Gold Limited Edition

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Régence Circulaire Hand-Engraved Dial 
for the F.P. Journe Tourbillon Souverain

The Horological Art takes on an unprecedented artistic dimension with the exclusive Régence Circulaire dial, made in a limited edition of only 20 pieces.

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François-Paul Journe has always been fascinated by the 18th century, which he considers to be the golden age of time measurement. The Régence Circulaire motif, which pays homage to the clockmakers and artisans of the 18th century, was inspired by geometrical motifs of the Regency period.

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It takes two days for a Geneva artist to hand-engrave this work of art. The Régence Circulaire motif is first drawn on the raw white gold dial. Then the artist incises the pattern into the metal. Different kinds and shapes of burins are used, which the artist prepares ahead of time so as to be suited to her own personal manner of working and the size of her hands. These tools count among her trade secrets.

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The Horological Art takes on an unprecedented artistic dimension with the exclusive Régence Circulaire dial, made in a limited edition of only 20 pieces. François-Paul Journe has always been fascinated by the 18th century, which he considers to be the golden age of time measurement. The Régence Circulaire motif, which pays homage to the clockmakers and artisans of the 18th century, was inspired by geometrical motifs of the Regency period. It takes two days for a Geneva artist to hand-engrave this work of art.

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The Régence Circulaire motif is first drawn on the raw white gold dial. Then the artist incises the pattern into the metal. Different kinds and shapes of burins are used, which the artist prepares ahead of time so as to be suited to her own personal manner of working and the size of her hands. These tools count among her trade secrets. François-Paul Journe awarding the Prix Solo artgenève-F.P.Journe.

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After roughing out the grained decoration of the surface and the champlevé areas, the artist begins perfecting the background texture, then giving a final finish to the engraving of the lines.

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After two days of painstaking work requiring highly specialised skills as well as great patience and dexterity, the dial, whose tiniest imperfections, visible only under the watchmaker’s loupe, are the signs of a hand-created piece, is given over to the expert hands of another artisan, who gives the dial a final polishing that leaves it gleaming. The Tourbillon Souverain with remontoire or constant force device system, which the brand values since 1983 for its timekeeping performances is enriched with the addition of an independent dead-beat second.

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This complication, representing a unique feature on a contemporary wristwatch, provides a more accurate read-off of time. The French term for "dead second" (seconde morte) or "dead-beat seconds", stems from the fact that the hand remains motionless ("dead") for as long as the second has not actually elapsed. The hand thus indicates the second once it has actually gone past.

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The Tourbillon Souverain is still the most accurate on the market today. This exceptional mechanism in 18K rose Gold, specificity of the brand, reveals its technical performance through the transparent sapphire crystal case-back.

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The Tourbillon Souverain with Régence Circulaire hand-engraved dial is housed in an equally noble 40mm case in 18K red Gold. It is available exclusively in the F.P.Journe Boutiques and Espaces.



At the heart of the movement

Technical description
The remontoire (constant force device) comprises a secondary wheel () assembled on a lever (), which swivels concentrically to the cage () of the tourbillon. This lever stops the principal wheel which carries the second hand () and transmits the energy of the barrel, whereas the auxiliary spring () (or equalizing spring) gives its energy to the escapement. () This then allows the secondary wheel to release once per second, and with repetition, the auxiliary spring is re-fuelled by the principal wheel.

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What is a remontoire ?

In the Toubillon Souverain, the remontoire - a constant force device - can be compared to a dam that controls the flow of water and provides constant energy to the blades of a turbine. In effect, the remontoire regulates the power to the escapement to attain greater stability in rate. The adjustable inertia weights make it possible to optimize the amplitude of oscillation; the four-armed balance beats at a frequency of 21'600 v/h.





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TECHNICAL CHARACTERISTICS

Collection: SOUVERAINE 

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Model: Tourbillon Souverain Régence Circulaire
Limited Series

Movement
Calibre
: 1403
    Manually winding : 20 turns of the crown
    Movement in 18K rose Gold : 26 jewels
Indications :
    Hours and minutes à 3h 00
    Sub-seconds at 6h 00
    Power reserve at 12h 00
Dimensions :
    Overall dimensions : 32.40 mm
    Casing-up diameter of mvt : 32.00 mm
    Overall Height : 7.15 mm
    Height of winding stem : 2.53 mm
    Diameter of stem thread : S1.20 mm
    Case diameter : 38 mm / 40.00 mm
    Overall case thickness : 9.9 mm
Characteristics :
    15 tooth escape wheel
    90° Anchor fork
    Balance with 4 inertia weights
    Flat Anachron balance spring with Breguet overcoil
    Pinned stud
    Free-sprung
    Spring pinned to collet
    2 position winding crown
Features :
    Tourbillon with constant force and dead seconds
    Manual winding
    Time adjustment by crown in position 2
Frequency :  21'600 VPH (3 Hz)
Balance :
    Inertia : 11.00 mgcm2
    Angle of lift : 52°
Amplitude :
    0 h dial up: 280°
    24 h dial up: 280°
Power reserve :   42 ± 2 hours
Number of jewels :  26
Finishes :
    High quality
    Circular stripes on the bridges
    Geneva waves on baseplate
    Screw heads polished and bevelled
    Pegs with polished rounded ends
Number of components :
    Movement: 193
    Cased on leather strap: 218
Case
    18K Red Gold, polished  
    Diameter:    40.00 mm  
    Total height:    9.90 mm  
Control rocker          
    18K Red Gold      
    Rocker arm to start, stop and zero the chronograph
Crown    18K Red Gold      
    Three-position winding crown  
    Position 0, disengaged  
    Position 1, winding  
    Position 2, time-setting  
Dial   
White Gold dial with exclusive Régence Circulaire hand engraved decoration and guilloché Silver
Strap   
Burgundy alligator with 18K red Gold clasp

Exclusively Limited Series of only 20 pieces

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Press release - 2018
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MONTRES JOURNE SA
Brigitte Bocquet-Makhzani - Communication
International PR & Events Manager
17, rue de l’Arquebuse – 1204 Geneva – Switzerland
Tel : +41 (0)22 322 09 09
Fax : +41 (0)22 322 09 19
e-mail: bmakhzani@fpjourne.com
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www.F.P.Journe.com

Thursday, July 12, 2018

Harry Winston – Histoire de Tourbillon 9 Edition
















Harry WinstonHistoire de Tourbillon 9 Gold Limited Edition


The new Histoire de Tourbillon 9
 Skeletonized dial with Retrograde jumping indicators. 

For nine years, the exceptional qualities that characterize Harry Winston have been embodied in a singular tourbillon watch. Histoire de Tourbillon 9 — the latest from a long lineage of timepieces — casts a new light on fine watchmaking innovation. Its triaxial tourbillon has been augmented with retrograde jumping hours and retrograde minutes.

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Once again, the Histoire de Tourbillon collection pushes the boundaries of cinematic magic attained by a tourbillon. Histoire de Tourbillon 9 sees this complication perform a new ballet, choreographed by the pure expertise of Harry Winston. Nestling in a well of light, the triaxial tourbillon takes up every possible position on the sphere, in turn creating an infinite number of possible positions for the escapement.

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Hence time is measured with uniquely exquisite delicacy. It is rendered visible by two hands. Both the minute hand and the hour hand are retrograde, while the latter is jumping. True to the highly mechanical and skeletonized style of Harry Winston’s grand complications, Histoire de Tourbillon 9 plays with volume, symmetry, and transparency, following principles of design that break with convention.

A well of light

With a diameter of 46.5 mm, Histoire de Tourbillon 9 is the most compact watch in the Histoire de Tourbillon series. With steeply curved lugs that follow the natural contours of the wrist, the Histoire de Tourbillon 9 is pleasantly comfortable to wear. Additionally, the case band - which is the opaque element - is relatively slim and features a high domed sapphire crystal known as a glass “box” that bulges over it.

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Histoire de Tourbillon 9 uses layers of transparency to create an artistic effect. The tourbillon holding the three carriages undertakes its rotation in a well of light measuring 20.5 mm in diameter. On the back side of the case, a second glass box sits against the wrist. It incorporates a dome, which melts into the thickness of the wrist and gives the tourbillon all the space it needs to freely complete its triaxial rotation.


Positive engraving

Through an openwork dial, the hour and minute hands circle directly above the movement and point to two zones calibrated with Arabic numerals.
The power-reserve indicator at 8 o’clock displays a field and a two-part hand that share a distinctly three-dimensional nature.

Beautiful back

On the bottom side is an entirely open worked and satin-finished barrel bridge. It structures the whole underside of the timepiece, further set off by a surface treatment that enhances the effect. The Histoire de Tourbillon 9’s two power- accumulating organs are daisy-chained beneath the barrel bridge.

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However, the main element is still the triaxial tourbillon itself. The first carriage — the biggest — holds the other two, and takes 300 seconds to rotate on its axis. It encloses an intermediate carriage, which spins in 75 seconds. The third, and smallest, carriage directly holds the large variable-inertia balance wheel and completes its rotation in 45 seconds.


A spirit takes shape

An ambassador of Harry Winston’s watchmaking expertise, Histoire de Tourbillon 9 is the quintessential embodiment of the brand’s spirit. The power of this timepiece lies within the shape of the triaxial tourbillon’s external carriage.

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Another aesthetic hallmark - the three arches that cover and encircle the crown on Histoire de Tourbillon 9 - was inspired by the entrance of Harry Winston’s iconic Fifth Avenue Salon in New York City.


A unique approach

While jumping hours have already been featured on several Harry Winston timepieces, the Histoire de Tourbillon 9 breaks from convention. The hand that indicates them moves from 0 to 12 in progressive steps, before jumping back to the start. The dragging minutes follow the same path and the same cadence.

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The HW4504 caliber was designed exclusively for Histoire de Tourbillon 9. This development guarantees an exceptional degree of exclusivity, since only 20 models of Histoire de Tourbillon 9 will be made - ten in 18-karat white gold and ten in 18- karat rose gold.

Contrasts and textures

On the white gold Histoire de Tourbillon 9, the dominant color is gray, while the rose gold version is predominantly black.

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The common denominator between these finishes is their extraordinarily superior level of quality. The beveling, which is carried out entirely by hand, highlights the sophisticated cut of the components.

An eye for detail

Three further elements that often take a backseat have been treated with particular care on this timepiece. The strap in black alligator leather is stitched with thread made of precious metal – 18-karat rose gold thread was used on the version with a rose gold case, while the stitching on the white gold model is done in platinum.

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The Ardillon buckle was also redesigned for the occasion. Its new lines recall the case, especially its three reworked arches.

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Technical details

Model: Histoire de Tourbillon 9

References
18K rose gold: HCOMTT47RR002
18K white gold: HCOMTT47WW001

Movement
Caliber HW4504

Type Mechanical, manual winding
Diameter: 40.4 mm
Height: 10.60 mm (excluding tourbillon)
Number of components 408, of which 117 are in the tourbillon
Number of jewels 58
Tourbillon
  • – 1 triaxial tourbillon
  • – Internal carriage: 1 rotation in 45 seconds
  • – Intermediate carriage: 1 rotation in 75 seconds
  • – External carriage: 1 rotation in 300 seconds
Barrels: Fast-rotating series-coupled barrels (1 revolution in 3.2 hours),
1 barrel fitted with a spring featuring a sliding brace
Power reserve: 50 hours
Frequency: 21,600 vibrations/hour (3Hz)
Balance springs: Phillips terminal curve and Geneva-style stud
Balance wheels: Variable-inertia with 18K gold adjusting screws
Finishes: Satin-finished and circular-grained mainplate, titanium bridges,
circular satin-brushing and microbeading, titanium tourbillon bridges
Functions
Retrograde jumping hours,
retrograde dragging minutes, power reserve with hand
Case
  • 18K rose gold
  • 18K white gold
Diameter: 46.5 mm
Height: 20.84 mm
Crystal: Domed sapphire crystal, with double-sided anti-reflective coating
Case back: Open, domed sapphire crystal with double-sided antireflective coating
Water-resistance: 3 bar
Dial
Skeletonized dial
Strap
HCOMTT47RR002: Black alligator leather with stitching in 18K rose gold thread
HCOMTT47WW001: Black alligator leather with stitching in 950 platinum thread
Buckle: Ardillon buckle in 18K rose gold or 18K white gold

Limited Edition
HCOMTT47RR002: 10 pieces
HCOMTT47WW001: 10 pieces


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