Friday, September 20, 2024

BREGUET –Type XX Chronograph 2067 Automatic

BREGUETType XX 2067 Chronograph 42mm Rose Gold Blue Dial Automatic - 2024

Chronograph 2067
Gold in the spotlight
 

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 Following the launch of the new-generation Type XX in June 2023, Breguet
continues to develop the line by welcoming a civilian version in gold,
incorporating ceramic.

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Its style is assertive, sporty and elegant. The new civilian version Type XX adds a number of fresh features to the fourth-generation range. 

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The first gold bezel with a bidirectional ring made of ceramic, a material used for the first time in Breguet collections, for this first new-generation Type XX in gold.

Yesterday's inspiration for today's design

Like the versions released in June 2023, this new timepiece draws inspiration from the emblematic watches dating back to the collection’s origins. 

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Gold was indeed chosen for very rare timepieces in 1955, notably Breguet No. 1780, which now belongs to the Breguet Museum. There were only three gold timepieces in this small series, called either Type 20 (military version) or Type XX (civilian version).

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As for the bezel contrasting with the case, they appeared on the second generation of Type XXs dating from the 1970s, which were adorned with different graduations such as tachymeter scales, or with GMT indications.

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These historical references blend with the emblematic codes of the civilian Type XX. The 15-minute counter is located at 3 o'clock, the 12-hour counter at 6 o'clock and the running seconds at 9 o'clock. 

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Just as in the military-inspired version, the size of the counters differs to make the dial more dynamic and legible.  

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The Arabic numerals, the hands and the triangle on the bezel are covered in a white luminescent coating. The date window appears between 4 and 5 o’clock. The 42 mm-diameter rose gold case is fitted with a fluted bidirectional graduated bezel. Its classic straight-line crown can be set in three different positions.

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Positions: 1) neutral, winding 2) date setting, 3) time setting. The 2 o'clock pusher is used to start and stop the chronograph function, while the 4 o'clock pusher serves to reset the chronograph and restart it immediately, the famous "flyback" function.

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This new model is presented in a havana-coloured leather box reminiscent of an aircraft wing profile. It is delivered with both alligator leather and NATO straps, in midnight blue. The NATO strap is embellished with white piping. 

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The interchangeable strap system enables the leather strap to be removed easily, independently and tool-free. Simply pressing the pushers beneath the lugs makes it possible to attach and detach the two halves of the leather strap, while the NATO strap slips between the two bars, passing under the case.

What's new on the front

Ceramic ring

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The graduated, bidirectional rotating bezel in gold features a blue ceramic ring that contrasts elegantly with the gold of the case and numerals, while harmoniously blending with the dial colour.

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The dial

Its sunburst blue hue is reminiscent of the variations in the sky after sunset. 

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To add depth, the three counters feature a snailed motif. Finally, the numerals are in gold and filled with luminescent material.

Calibre 728

Released in 2023 after four years of development, the 728 movement was conceived, developed and finalised within the Manufacture Breguet. It is of course equipped with a "flyback" function. Prior to its creation, three operations were required instead of just one. 

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The new calibre's innovative start and reset systems have been designed to ensure that they can be used smoothly and accurately. Whatever function is used, the pressure exerted on the pushers is even and balanced. 

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As for the vertical clutch mechanism, it was chosen for its precision upon starting. Finally, to ensure the robustness of the movement and guarantee its precision in the event of shocks, the Maison opted for a cross-through bridge to hold the balance wheel in place.

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Designed to take up as much of the space available in the movement as possible, the barrel providing the energy is fitted with a spring whose high-energy-density material provides a longer 60-hour power reserve.

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A great deal of effort has gone into the aesthetics of the movement and its decoration: in addition to the sunburst motif, snailing, chamfering, circular graining and other visible decorations on the components, the brand has given the column wheel a black treatment combining contrast with tribological improvement. 

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The sapphire crystal caseback reveals not only the details of the movement but also its oscillating weight. The blackened gold oscillating weight is shaped like an aircraft wing and engraved with the Breguet logo.

The Type XX epic, a journey through time

As early as 1949, Breguet – which had long been closely involved in aeronautical circles – developed chronographs with the famous special function that was soon named "flyback". 

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This considerably simplified the use of the chronograph, thanks to the reset function that instantly restarted the chronograph at the touch of a pusher, a time-saver much appreciated by pilots. 

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In 1952, Breguet was informed that a bid for tender was going to be organised by the French Air Force and submitted models to the Service Technique Aéronautique. In the spring of 1953, these models were approved under the name Type 20

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This paved the way for official orders placed and in 1954, the long-hoped-for order arrived: a very large one involving 1,100 units for the French Air Force, followed in 1958 by a 500-unit order for the French Naval Aviation. 

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At the same time, Breguet began selling many civil Type XXs, a trend that would continue for several decades. 

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The first civilian Type XXs were sold in 1953. Since then, different generations have come and gone. Some were innovative, like the Type XXII, reference 3880, with a different 10 hertz frequency. 

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Today, the legend continues with a fourth generation of Type XXs, drawing on Breguet’s watchmaking expertise as well as its assertive aesthetics, making this collection an icon of today and tomorrow.

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TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS

Collection  Type XX

Model:   Type XX Chronograph 2067 Gold - Civilian Version

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 Reference   2067RK/Y9/9WU 

Case
Rose gold, gold bezel and blue ceramic ring
Diameter: 42 mm
Thickness: 14.1 mm
Water resistance: 10 bar (100 m)
Dial
Sunburst blue
Movement
Self-winding Calibre: 728
Balance spring: flat, silicon
Escapement: inverted in-line lever escapement with silicon horns
Frequency: 5 Hz
Power reserve: 60 hours
Components: 350

Functions: flyback chronograph, date, small seconds, 15-minute and 12-hour counters
Strap
Set of two interchangeable straps:
One in alligator leather, the other in NATO fabric.
Each has its own 18K gold pin buckle.

Available  in Breguet Boutique around the world 2024


#Breguet
#breguetTypeXX
#Breguet Chronograph
#breguet2067
#myBreguet
#myBreguetmoment

  🔴 Price upon request 💰 

🔰Edition : No 

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Press release - 2024
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www.facebook.com - Montres Breguet
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www.Breguet.com

Thursday, September 19, 2024

ArtyA – PURITY ‘Stairway To Heaven’ HMS Wavy Sapphire Edition

 

ArtyAPURITY  Stairway To Heaven’ HMS Wavy Sapphire Edition - 2024

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A standout launch at Watches and Wonders 2024, the Purity Stairway to Heaven movement continues to astonish. Initially presented with two off-center hands on variously colored dials, it now features a central three-hand display. The inclusion of a prominent central second hand adds even more vibrancy to this dynamic movement.

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This HMS evolution represents a major technical breakthrough, preserving the three-dimensional architecture of the original Stairway To Heaven movement and showcasing the power of its mechanics:

  • - Two barrels operate side by side, in parallel, using a longer, finer spring for stable, linear energy delivery and improved winding efficiency.
  • - A ‘stellar’ escapement, placed as if on a "Stairway To Heaven" podium and suspended in mid-air at 4Hz, creates a visually stunning aerial spectacle. The balance wheel has been scaled down to boost its chronometric accuracy.
  • - Arched, hand-beveled bridges with innovative shapes are directly integrated, rather than being juxtaposed or adjacent, creating the necessary space for the regulating organ.
  • - Extreme skeletonization defines each component, providing visual focal points and requiring machining with uncompromising precision and perfect alignment.
  • - The traditional spiral adjustment caters to clients seeking customization and distinctiveness, featuring tiny weights adjusted in reversed symmetry to optimize the spiral’s inertia.
  • - Visually, the architecture masterfully manipulates material and void, creating tension among components. The entire mechanism is built around the precise positioning of the gears, designed as if suspended in mid-air.
For the debut of this revolutionary movement, a case that reflects the DNA of the Geneva-based watchmaker was essential. 

A unique chapter
RING

Again, art and functionality blend together perfectly in this latest watch creation by ArtyA. This design features a new chapter ring that further enhances the transparency of the entire piece : laser-engraved inside the upper crystal, it offers both perfect legibility and an unobstructed view of the movement.

The two sword-shaped hands, with brushed and diamond-cut finishes, hover over the architecture, while the sweeping seconds hand in the center adds a distinct dynamic to the living movement.

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Inspired by the iconic Curvy barrel-shaped case, one of ArtyA’s emblematic models, the new Wavy case is round with a 40 mm diameter. This outer design perfectly harmonizes with the curves in the movement, expressing a classic and discreet aesthetic that is seemingly simple yet surprisingly complex.

 

Designed by Jérémie Arpa, son of Yvan Arpa, the Wavy sapphire crystal case takes inspiration from the iconic Curvy model. Its barrel shape has been replaced with a round 40 mm design, yet it retains its distinctive lines and reflections.

This new sapphire crystal watch offers unique refractive angles to fully appreciate all aspects of this skeletonized movement.

  SAPPHIRE MASTERY

For the past eight years, ArtyA’s creative workshops have consistently distinguished themselves through their mastery of sapphire crystal and the precision and meticulousness of their craftsmanship, demonstrating a peerless savoir-faire—both technical and aesthetic—with this fascinating material.

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Among the very first brands to adopt sapphire crystal for watch cases in 2016, ArtyA made it an essential material choice. Offering perfect transparency, sapphire crystal allows the beauty of mechanical movements to be admired from every angle.

At the same time, its remarkable resistance to scratches and shocks ensures exceptional durability and longevity. Worth noting here is that sapphire is an extraordinarily hard crystal, the third-hardest natural material after diamond and moissanite on the Mohs scale. 

Encased in a
CRESTING WAVE

As imagined by Jérémie Arpa, the son of Yvan and Dominique Arpa, the watch’s lines evoke the elegance and majesty of a powerful ocean wave running along its flank.

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Wavy manifests this through a fluid, organic visual language that mirrors the natural grace and force of the sea. It is reflected in the contours of the case, where each arc is carefully sculpted to create an impression of perpetual flux. The design goes beyond simple curviness; it blends softly undulating lines to suggest a state of flow, evoking the mesmerizing and unpredictable nature of water.

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The case designed by the young artist captures this essence with particular elegance. The slightly domed surface and flowing transitions between the different parts of the watch recall the way waves form and move across the sea. The watch’s curves reach beyond their own intrinsic aesthetics to create a unique play of light on the sapphire crystal, reflecting nuances and shadows in a way that echoes the shimmering surface of water.

The Wavy aesthetic has its own dynamic; it draws you into a visual experience where every glance reveals new perspectives and angles. The ballet of light and refraction through the sapphire crystal and across the finely polished metal parts further accentuates this impression, transforming the watch into a true work of art in motion, like a wave captured in an endless loop of grace and fluidity.

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Consistent with ArtyA’s commitment to creating exceptional timepieces, every aspect of this watch’s meticulous hand-finishing – including polishing and satin-brushed finishing – reveals an unrelenting pursuit of beauty in the invisible. The innovative techniques used to decorate the parts that are usually hidden from view illustrate ArtyA’s dedication to uncompromising quality. This attention to detail reflects the perfectionism that drives the creators of this latest piece, designed and made with the precision and passion that are ArtyA’s hallmark.

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Technical Specifications  

  Watch name Purity Stairway to Heaven HMS Wavy Edition

Movement
ArtyA Purity Stairway To Heaven HMS Manufacture Movement 
Manual-winding and skeletonised movement conceived, developed and manufactured for ArtyA in collaboration with Swiss movement manufacturer Télôs SA
Power reserve: 71 hrs.
Frequency of balance wheel 4 Hz (28,800) (higher than usual for a tourbillon, ensuring greater stability)
Functions:
Hours and minutes, seconds
Case
Pure sapphire case to match the high standards of ArtyA.
Dimensions: 40 mm
Height: 13,1mm
Water resistance: 3 atm (30 m)
Double-sided sapphire crystal
Open sapphire back
Dial
Skeleton 
Fully transparent
Skeletonised bridges
Hour markers: Engraved on the upper crystal
Double barrels on left side and suspended escapement on right
Hand-bevelled arced bridges
Strap
Black nubuck
Buckle:  ArtyAexclusive design, with or without black PVD treatment

🔰Limited Edition to 99 pieces

 🔴 Retail price (ex VAT)  44,900 CHF / 46,300 EUR / 49,700 USD 💰  
excluding VAT, exchange rates at time of writing


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Press release 2024
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