Monday, September 9, 2024

VACHERON CONSTANTIN – Fiftysix Self-winding 40mm Pink Gold

VACHERON CONSTANTINFiftysix® Self-winding Pink Gold 40mm - 2024

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    At the confluence of eras and styles, the Fiftysix collection unveiled in 2018 is returning to centre-stage.
    The 40 mm pink gold case opts for a black dial and anthracite nubuck calfskin leather strap in an elegant retro-contemporary combination.
    The collection’s strong identity is inspired by 1950s’ aesthetics and the iconic Reference 6073 created by Vacheron Constantin in 1956.

Retro-contemporary elegance since 2018

Part retro, part contemporary, the Fiftysix collection is rooted in Vacheron Constantin's heritage. Its inspiration is twofold: on the one hand, 1950s’ aesthetics, particularly Reference 6073 created by the Maison in 1956; on the other, the Manufacture’s Maltese cross emblem, whose outline discreetly graces several details distilled across various models in the collection. 

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The Fiftysix aesthetic is thus at the confluence of styles and eras, expressed through multiple variations in pink gold or steel and driven by a self-winding movement in a complete calendar version or with day, date and power-reserve indication.

A variation in pink gold with a black dial

The new Fiftysix self-winding opts for an original, contrasting combination of gold, black and anthracite tones. Harmoniously extended by lugs evoking a Maltese cross, its 40 mm round 18K 5N pink gold case frames a sector-type dial typical of watches produced in the 1950s

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For the first time in the collection, it is black toned, with double finishes, opaline in the centre and sunburst on the surrounding chapter ring, offering an elegant play on light and shade with the warm shimmer of pink gold. 

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The contrast continues with the applied 18K 5N pink gold Roman numerals, along with the hour-markers and hands coated with luminescent material ensuring enhanced legibility in the dark. 

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The dial aesthetics are further enhanced by the box-type sapphire crystal topping the bezel, in the style of post-war watches. This retro-contemporary aesthetic is matched by an anthracite nubuck calfskin leather strap with ecru stitching.

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On the reverse, the Calibre 1326 self-winding movement reveals its Côtes de Genève finishing through the sapphire crystal caseback. The pink gold oscillating weight is openworked and adorned with a Maltese cross, the symbol of Vacheron Constantin's watchmaking excellence for nearly 270 years. 

A powerful 1950s-inspired identity

The personality of the Fiftysix is rooted in the 1950s, the golden age of round, elegant timepieces and more specifically in Reference 6073 presented by Vacheron Constantin in 1956

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The fact that this watch occupies a special place within the Maison’s heritage is because it was one of its very first timepieces to feature a self-winding movement, at a time when most were still powered by hand-wound mechanisms. In addition to its technical features ensuring precision and reliability, it also features strong character and retro elegance.  

Click, to see the large size. BIG FOTO  Fiftysix

watches borrow their streamlined design from their predecessor, reinforced by lugs whose design is inspired by the branches of the Maltese cross. Like the vintage models, they also feature a box-type crystal that dominates the bezel, a sector-type dial and harmoniously alternating Arabic numerals and baton-style hour-markers characteristic of the 1950s.

Questions to Christian Selmoni, Style & Heritage Director, Vacheron Constantin

How did the historical context of the 1950s influence the design of Vacheron Constantin's round watches?

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The 1950s were a period of prosperity and economic growth and Vacheron Constantin was no exception to this dynamic. After World War II, watches were distinguished by their elegance. Unlike in the early 20th century such as during the Roaring Twenties when the watch industry produced just about every shape of watch, cases were round, slim and elegant. At Vacheron Constantin, timepieces were characterised by sophistication, clean lines and harmonious proportions. In addition, technological advances had led to significant improvements in terms of accuracy and reliability, as well as the widespread use of steel and gold. 

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The watches created by Vacheron Constantin during this decade also reflected the trends of the time, with light-coloured dials and refined finishes. Today, the aesthetics of these watches have not aged at all, consolidating their status as timeless icons.

The Fiftysix collection claims a direct filiation with Reference 6073 from 1956. Given that the current trend is toward smaller diameters, why choose not to adopt the same vintage proportions?

Each of our contemporary collections finds its roots and inspiration in the history of the Manufacture. Taking the example of the Patrimony collection, it too is inspired by an extremely understated model from our heritage dating back to the 1950s, yet we have chosen to interpret it in a contemporary manner while respecting its original minimalism. All our current creations are elegant and aim to achieve a certain timelessness. In the 1950s, watch sizes were slimmer and Reference 6073 was no exception with its 35 mm diameter. It is not Vacheron Constantin's mission to reproduce the past identically, to reproduce what has already been done. In this respect, the Fiftysix collection can be defined as modern with a retro touch. 


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TECHNICAL DATA

Collection: Fiftysix 

Model:   Fiftysix Self-winding 40mm Pink Gold
 
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 Reference   4600E/000R-H101 


Movement Calibre 1326  
Manufacture calibre  
Mechanical, self-winding  
26.2 mm (11¼ ’’’) diameter, 4.3 mm thick  
Approximately 48 hours of power reserve  
4 Hz (28,800 vibrations per hour)  
142 components  
25 jewels  
IndicationsHours, minutes, central seconds  
Date  
Case
18K 5N pink gold  
40 mm diameter, 9.6 mm thick  
Transparent sapphire crystal caseback  
Water-resistant
tested at a pressure of 3 bar (approx. 30 metres)  
Dial
Black-toned, opaline centre, sunburst exterior  
18K 5N pink gold Arabic numerals  
18K 5N pink gold hour-markers highlighted by a blue luminescent material   
Hour/minute hands and hour-markers highlighted with blue SuperLuminova®.
Strap
Anthracite nubuck calfskin leather strap with calfskin lining and ecru stitching
Buckle 18K 5N pink gold pin buckle
Polished half Maltese cross-shaped


Piece only available through the Vacheron Constantin Boutiques.

World Price:  on request


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#VACHERONCONSTANTIN
#OneOfNotMany

#Fiftysix

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Press Release - 2024
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Vacheron Constantin
Press Department
10, Chemin du Tourbillon
P.O. Box 95
CH-1228
Plan-les-Ouates/Geneva
Tel. +41 22 930 20 05
Fax +41 22 930 20 06
press@vacheron-constantin.com
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Friday, September 6, 2024

ARMIN STROM – Dual Time GMT Resonance First Edition


ARMIN STROMRESONANCE Dual Time GMT Resonance First 39mm White Gold Edition 2024

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 ARMIN STROM UNVEILS ENTIRELY NEW DUAL TIME GMT
RESONANCE TIMEPIECE

Biel/Bienne, Switzerland, 29 August 2024: Swiss independent watch brand Armin Strom celebrates the 15th anniversary of its fully-integrated Manufacture by reimagining its most historically significant innovation, the resonance complication, in an entirely new Dual Time GMT Resonance First Edition. The new timepiece is presented in a hotly-anticipated 39-mm case size made in 18-karat white gold and limited to 25 pieces.

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Embracing a symmetrical design language with two identical time dials, this First Edition timepiece comes in an elegant 39-mm round 18-karat white gold case. And like all Armin Strom First Editions, it includes a 10-year extended warranty.

Armin Strom once again demonstrates its mastery of ‘the science of movement’ with a finely-proportioned Dual Time Resonance timepiece, delivering unprecedented resilience against disruption of the Resonance phenomenon.

Reflecting on Armin Strom’s new Dual Time GMT Resonance, founder Serge Michel noted:

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“Having two completely independent watch movements in a single timepiece creates the logical demand for an iteration that displays two time zones. The success of our first Dual Time inspired us to build a smaller and more elegant Dual Time Resonance watch. To do this, we further developed our concept and arranged the two movements vertically. And we couldn’t be happier with the result.”

Two dial-side kinetic elements unite to form a mesmerizing spectacle

The kinetic spectacle of Resonance is on full display on the dial side of the timepiece. The synchronized motion of two balance wheels operating in a state of Resonance, combined with the hypnotic pulsation of the clutch spring ‘breathing’ as it transmits vibrations between them, offers their owner a mesmerizing spectacle that brings a sense of wonder to the everyday.

Two fully independent time zones

Another valued aspect of the timepiece is its ability to set the two time zones entirely independently. Most dual time zone movements only permit independent adjustment of the hours, with only a few allowing half-hour settings. 

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However, Armin Strom’s Dual Time GMT Resonance lets users set both the hours and minutes to any desired time on each of two identical dials.

Two movements in one new caliber

The Dual Time GMT Resonance First Edition is powered by the new Armin Strom manufacture caliber ARF22, a manually-wound Resonance movement and the 18th caliber designed and produced in-house under the direction of Claude Greisler, Armin Strom’s co-founder and master watchmaker. 

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Two independent, symmetrically mirrored oscillators operate in anti-phase to become synchronized mirror images of each other via the natural phenomenon of Resonance. The caliber features two mainspring barrels providing a power reserve of 42 hours, all wound by a single crown at 4 o’clock. Two separate gear trains drive the independent time displays. 

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The engraved and mirror-polished day/night indicators depicting the sun and moon are mounted on 24-hour wheels directly on the movement. Two crowns positioned on either side of the case allow for the independent setting of each dial.

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While many of the most visually-intriguing features are visible on the dial side, the case back further reveals the distinctive symmetrical architecture of the movement. The Dual Time GMT Resonance movement also offers a unique winding experience with a corresponding dial-side animation. The ratchet click system on the dial side of the timepiece provides this animation on the watch face, transforming the winding of the movement into a multi-sensory experience.

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Unlike traditional click mechanisms connected to ratchets, the Dual Time GMT Resonance’s three-dimensional ratchet mechanism is connected to a pinion that is positioned between the two barrels to distribute the load more evenly. This two-part system consists of a bottom gear with Breguet teeth fixed to the main plate, and a top element with a spring connected to the axis. 

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This approach provides more precise engagement and disengagement of the winding mechanism resulting in more consistent performance, more efficient energy transfer, reduced friction and wear on components, smoother operation and better overall durability for the winding system.

Two symmetric dials

The Dual Time GMT Resonance First Edition features two symmetric sky-blue dials, each with a grenage finish.  

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Armin Strom offers the only Resonance timepieces in active production with dual symmetric time dials.

Two symmetric day/night indicators

Dual engraved and mirror-polished day/night indicators depict the sun and moon to indicate AM/PM for each of the time dials.

Two symmetric crowns


Two crowns, positioned on either side of the case at 4 and 8 o’clock, allow each dial to be independently set.

Two straps


Secured by an 18-karat white gold pin buckle, the Dual Time GMT Resonance First Edition comes with two straps: A matte gray alligator strap with sky-blue stitching and a light gray alligator strap with pearl-gray stitching.

Artisanal craftsmanship


For the First Edition, the dials feature a sky-blue grenage finish, surrounded by black azurage chapter rings set with applied polished baton indexes that complement the faceted hands. The engraved and mirror polished day/night indicators depicting the sun and moon are mounted on 24-hour wheels directly on the movement. For the first time, the twin balance bridge is crafted from steel and designed with a flat surface that is hand-polished to achieve a mirror finish in accordance with the highest standards of traditional haute horlogerie decoration.

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The lavish hand-finishing and decoration of this caliber includes hand-polished bevels, screws and countersinks, along with circular graining, perlage and Geneva stripes. The juxtaposition of anthracite and silvery tones further emphasizes the visual depth and dramatic contrast.

What is Resonance?


In watchmaking, a state of Resonance is generated by housing two movements in a single case in such a way that the balance wheels of both movements will naturally influence and regulate each other in real time via the mutual sharing of almost imperceptible vibrations. This sharing enables the twin balance wheels to become fully synchronized and regulate each other in a natural state of Resonance, thereby counteracting the negative effects of gravity and wrist movement on timekeeping. The key benefits of Resonance, in timepieces that can resiliently maintain the phenomenon, are its ability to maintain consistent timekeeping and to maximize timekeeping precision. Chronometric consistency means that a timepiece will gain or lose precisely the same number of seconds every day. Chronometric consistency was historically sought after for hundreds of years in order to solve the “Longitude Problem”, which required consistent timekeeping for more precise calculations of longitude in the context of maritime navigation.

How is Armin Strom’s approach to Resonance different from others?

Armin Strom’s approach to Resonance is fundamentally different from other Resonance timepieces in several key ways. Armin Strom Resonance timepieces utilize a patented, built-for-purpose suspension system known as a “clutch spring”, inspired by Antide Janvier’s Resonance Clock, to act as a vibrational intermediary between the balance wheels. This is in contrast to others who rely on legacy parts of the movement, such as a main-plate, to transmit vibrations. 

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By virtue of its resiliency against disruption, Armin Strom’s innovative approach can leverage Resonance to proactively prevent oscillation-rate deviations caused by external factors such as wrist motion, gravity and temperature changes rather than merely remediating oscillation-rate errors after-the-fact (when affected balance wheels would otherwise eventually drift back into a state of Resonance). For these reasons, alternative approaches cannot offer the same resilience, predictable chronometric benefits and chronometric consistency as does an Armin Strom Resonance timepiece. This differentiated approach very effectively ensures that the twin balance wheels of an Armin Strom Resonance timepiece will remain synchronized in all positions with resilience against disruption, thereby providing unparalleled chronometric consistency and precision.

As noted by master watchmaker and co-founder Claude Greisler:

“Huygens had his wood beam transmitting the necessary vibrations between his pendulum clocks and Antide Janvier had the shared suspension of his pendulums. Their accomplishments inspired us to develop a built-for-purpose suspension for the reliable transmission of vibrations between the two balance wheels of a Resonance wristwatch in order to achieve the resilience against disruption that Huygens had so ambitiously imagined in the year 1665.”

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TECHNICAL CHARACTERISTICS

Collection: RESONANCE

Model:  Dual Time GMT Resonance First White Gold Edition

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 Ref. WG24-DT.90

Movement
Armin Strom manufacture Caliber ARF22
Automatic winding with microrotor
Winding mechanism: Manual winding
Anthracite PVD-colored main plate
Regulating system: Two independent regulating systems connected by a resonance clutch spring
Power reserve: 42 hours
Dimensions: 34.15 mm × 4.92 mm
Frequency: 3.5 Hz (25,200 vph)
Jewels: 40
Number of components: 231
Indications
Two independent time displays each indicating hour, minutes and day/night Left crown for setting time of left dial; right crown for setting time of right dial and winding
Case
18-karat White Gold
Bezel: White gold
Sapphire crystal and case back with anti-reflective treatment
Diameter: 39.00 mm
Height: 9.05 mm
Water resistance: 3 ATM
Lug: 44.50 mm
Dial
Sky-blue grenage dials with black azurage chapter rings and applied polished baton indexes, rhodium-plated day/night discs
Hands: Rhodium, faceted and polished
Strap
Delivered with two straps: a matte-gray alligator strap with sky-blue stitching and a light-gray alligator strap with pearl-gray stitching
Width lugs/buckle: 18/16 mm 
Buckle: 18-karat pin buckle

🔰EDITION     Limited edition to 25 pieces

🔴Price: CHF 115,000 / EUR 133.300 / GBP 114.000 / USD 122.700

(Price excluding tax / Free global delivery) 💰

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Press releases - 2024
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ARMIN STROM AG |
Bözingenstrasse 46
CH-2502 Biel-Bienne | Switzerland
Tel. +41 (0)32 343 33 44
Fax +41 (0) 32 343 33 40
info@arminstrom.com
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For more information relating to this press release or to Armin Strom:
Bettina Fleury, Armin Strom AG,
Tel. +41 32 343 33 44, b.fleury@arminstrom.com
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