Friday, October 18, 2019

FERDINAND BERTHOUD – Chronomètre FB 1R.6-1 Tourbillon Edition

FERDINAND BERTHOUDChronomètre FB 1R.6-1 Tourbillon Steel 44mm Limited Edition 2019

A regulator to stand the test of time

With its original regulator-type display and its ultra-resistant carburised stainless steel case, the Chronomètre FB-1R.6-1 enriches the Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud collection. This new presentation radically transforms an exceptional timepiece whose complications, together with the quality of its construction and production, remain true to their underlying philosophy. Its FB-T.FC.R tourbillon calibre with fusee-and-chain transmission can be admired through a sapphire crystal case-back and two lateral portholes, offering a unique view inside this outstanding chronometer.

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Like the previous editions of the Chronomètre FB 1, its movement is equipped with horological complications inspired by the scientific instruments represented by Ferdinand Berthoud’s marine chronometers. The appearance of the Chronomètre Ferdinand Berthoud FB 1R.7-1 takes its cues from the Marine Chronometer No. 7. The philosophy upheld by Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud involves transposing into contemporary language the pursuit of excellence undertaken by the master horologist appointed Clockmaker to the French King and Navy. A rare and unusual-looking timepiece, the Chronomètre Ferdinand Berthoud FB 1R.6-1 is a comprehensive horological work, issued in a 20-piece limited edition intended for discerning and passionate collectors.

A philosophical approach

The different versions of the Chronomètre Ferdinand Berthoud FB 1 stem from an innovative horological approach. The design, movement, finishing and everything composing this chronometer with tourbillon and constant force are highly specific and reflect an uncompromising commitment to excellence. Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud is driven by the vision of its president, Karl-Friedrich Scheufele. The latter has patiently built up an important collection of objects relating to time measurement within the L.U.CEUM museum in Fleurier, including a number of works by Ferdinand Berthoud.

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In paying worthy tribute to this native of the Val-de-Travers, Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud has a dedicated team, a specific development process and authentic expertise in a wide range of skills. In the case of the Chronomètre Ferdinand Berthoud FB 1R.6-1, the inspiration stems directly from Ferdinand Berthoud’s research on his Marine Chronometer no. 7. The latter housed a number of solutions that improved the operating principles of its longitude watches. Among them was its display that differed from the usual rules governing regulators – which assign a different place on the dial to the hours, minutes and seconds displays – by the use of a large central seconds hand.

An evolving case

The Chronomètre Ferdinand Berthoud FB 1R.6-1 adds some unusual details and a unique presentation to the aesthetic and technical characteristics of the previous versions. It is still a 44 mm-diameter watch, featuring a less than 14 mm-thick case that sits naturally and comfortably on the wrist. It is composed of a steel cylinder housing the movement. The molecular structure of this steel has been reinforced by a thermo-chemical process involving the diffusion of vapourphase carbon, thereby guaranteeing an exceptional surface hardness of 1200 Vickers and making it extremely robust. It is also exceptionally corrosion-resistant and biocompatible.

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The case features two octagonal-shaped stainless steel side pieces, giving it a characteristic shape including two lateral portholes at 2 and 11 o’clock - providing a chance to admire the chain-and-fusee mechanism in action. These two openings are complemented by a screw-down stainless steel case-back fitted with glare-proofed sapphire crystal enabling observers to appreciate the high-quality finishing lavished on the FB-T.FC-R movement.

The knurled 9mm-diameter stainless steel crown bearing a black ceramic medallion ensures smooth winding of the movement endowed with a 53-hour power reserve.

An exceptional regulator

The novel construction of the Chronomètre Ferdinand Berthoud IR.6-1 sets it apart from all existing regulator-type displays. Instead of featuring a high-up opening providing a view of the tourbillon and the fourth wheel (driving the seconds) as on previous versions, the Chronomètre Ferdinand Berthoud FB 1R.6-1 has a mostly solid dial. The latter is in fact the rear side of the complication plate that provides the regulator-type display.

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It is made of nickel silver, vertically satin-brushed by hand and black rhodium-plated. Of the three small apertures, the first serves to show the hours, offset at 2 o’clock and appearing on a glare-proofed sapphire crystal disc bearing transferred Arabic numerals striking a pleasing contrast with a white background. The second opening features an original power-reserve display mechanism, distinguished by a large dial cut-out revealing part of the finely sandblasted and black rhodium-plated mainplate. Located in the centre of the finely chamfered, bead-blasted and black rhodium-plated minutes counter, the third aperture displays a hand-engraved “pyramid” motif inspired by an openworked Ferdinand Berthoud astronomical clock belonging to the L.U.CEUM collection.

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Meanwhile, the seconds appear around the rim of the dial on a flat inner bezel ring made of black rhodium-plated, bead-blasted and chamfered nickel silver.

Finally, the nature and provenance of the Chronomètre Ferdinand Berthoud FB 1R.6-1 can be read off on this large dial, engraved with the inscription “Chronomètre Val-de-Travers Suisse”. More than merely representing a signature or an appellation of origin, it proudly proclaims the model’s identity.

Suspended mobile cone power-reserve display and spiral-spring

A patent has been filed for the extremely sophisticated power-reserve indication mechanism. Visible through a cut-out in the half-bridge on the case-back side, a truncated cone moves up and down along an arbor connected to the barrel. This suspended cone is topped by a feeler spindle in the form of a mobile arm tipped with a watch jewel. The latter’s position on the cone reflects the barrel’s state of wind.

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The feeler spindle in turn transmits the quantity of energy accumulated by the mainspring to a set of finely chamfered and rhodium-plated flat levers visible through a cut-out in the regulator plate. Its role is to amplify the displacement of the power-reserve hand. A spiral spring placed at the far end of its travel exercises a force on the base of the power-reserve hand. This spring serves to compensate for the play between the various components of this mechanism and to display the power reserve with peerless precision.

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A number of complex mathematical calculations and various tests served to fine-tune the geometry of this spring, made from a nickel-phosphorous alloy in order to guarantee the concentric deployment of the coils in all states of winding and unwinding, and thereby to avoid any unattractive distortion that might also be detrimental to the smooth running of the mechanism. This ingenious device is imbued with the experimental spirit of Ferdinand Berthoud himself, who revelled in exploring solutions resolutely off the beaten track.

 A slender, finely structured movement

The FB-T.FC.R calibre is built according to a unique architectural concept. This hand-wound movement features 18 nickel silver bridges framed by polished titanium pillars surrounding the mechanical organs. This construction is typical of 18th century marine chronometers. The architectural approach is picked up in the design of all the components, and especially in the symmetrical equilibrium of the movement.

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The distinctive nature of the FB-T.FC.R calibre lies in its inverted upside-down barrel and fusee, and particularly in the fact that both elements are suspended, meaning held on only one side. A patent has been filed for this construction which saves precious millimetres. At 9.89 mm thick, the movement of the Chronomètre Ferdinand Berthoud FB 1R.6-1 thus remains extremely thin for its category despite the regulator-type display and the new power-reserve indication.

Keeping things moving

When the mainspring is combined with a fusee, the barrel drum turns in one direction when the spring is unwinding and in the other when it is winding, hence serving to coil the chain. The movement generally stops while this type of mechanism is being wound. To prevent this, the FB-T.FC.R calibre is equipped with a differential gear based on an original concept and for which patent has also been filed. It enables the balance wheel to continue oscillating during winding and thereby maintain the movement’s precision timekeeping properties.

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The winding mechanism is fitted with a pinion featuring cone-shaped toothing. Coupled with a large-diameter knurled crown, it enables smooth movement winding. This gentle motion, which is essential in the case of manual winding, enhances the quality of the day-to-day rapport between the watch and its owner.

Force and safety features

As typically found on chain and fusee mechanisms, the barrel of Calibre FB-T.FC.R is equipped with a “Maltese Cross” stopwork device. The latter serves to limit the winding turns of the mainspring to around six, so as to use only the most stable portion of this spring. This device also acts as a buffer when the barrel is fully wound. At that point, the mainspring torque exerts a 3 kg force, which is considerable for the chain components measuring just a few millimetres.

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To perfect the security of the movement, the engineers at Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud have equipped the crown with a dynamometric function serving to avoid any damage to the movement that might be caused by excessive winding.


Tourbillon with central seconds

Teamed with the fourth (seconds) wheel and pinion, the tourbillon of Calibre FB-T.FC-R comprises 67 components assembled within a titanium carriage measuring 16.55 mm in diameter, and fixed to a perfectly hand-polished and chamfered arrow-shaped steel arch whose tip points towards the space between the barrel and the fusee. To poise the escapement’s unbalance, two 18-carat gold inertia-blocks ensure the uniform spread of the weights of this large-size tourbillon.

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This tourbillon contributes to earning Calibre FB-T.FC.R its chronometer title awarded by the Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC). One particular characteristic makes the tourbillon extremely distinctive: although it performs one rotation per minute, it does not indicate the seconds, since the Chronomètre Ferdinand Berthoud FB 1R.6-1 is one of the rare tourbillons to have a central sweep-seconds hand. Extremely long, slim and made of gilded bronze, the latter moves with remarkable accuracy and in a remarkable stable manner.

Noble materials

Within the traditional approach to watchmaking, construction and mechanical structure are inseparable from the choice of materials and the quality of the finishing. In this respect, the movement of the Chronomètre Ferdinand Berthoud FB 1R.6-1 is in a league of its own. The bridges of Calibre FB-T.FC.R are made of untreated nickel silver: a copper, zinc and nickel alloy that is particularly shiny when polished, yet also extremely fragile. Any imperfection is irreparable. Nickel silver is also distinguished by its warm grey colour easily recognised by connoisseurs.

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It coexists here with steel, a new material in the array of metals used by Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud. This is an ultra-resistant carburised steel, based on a high-tech thermos-chemical surface treatment. It consists of diffusing carbon into a steel substrate, thereby increasing the hardness of the alloy without destroying its initial properties. In this instance, it reaches the record figure of 1200 Vickers, making the Chronomètre Ferdinand Berthoud FB 1R.6-1 exceptionally scratch-resistant. The choice of this type of steel, currently used in the aerospace industry, is a nod to the maritime expeditions achieved using the Marine Chronometers produced by Ferdinand Berthoud in the 18th century and which required the use of extremely sturdy materials.

Meticulous finishing

The stainless steel arrow-shaped tourbillon bridge is decorated with the utmost care. The upper side is specular-polished, the flanks are straight-grained, the angels are polished and the underside is circular-grained and smooth-polished. All levels of the titanium tourbillon bridge are entirely chamfered. Some surfaces are polished, others circular satin-brushed, sandblasted or smooth-polished. The lever bridge is completely chamfered and its visible side features a specular-polished finish while its hidden side is straight-grained. The power-reserve cone is mirror-polished.

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The two bridges framing the tourbillon of the Chronomètre Ferdinand Berthoud FB 1R.6-1 feature cut-outs. Through one of these apertures, the baseplate has been engraved with the same pyramid pattern as the hours dial, while the other reveals the power-reserve cone in all its splendour. 

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The barrel and fusee are gilded, creating a pleasing contrast with the rough nickel silver and titanium which are omnipresent in the movement. The 790-part stainless steel chain measuring 285 mm long is also entirely hand-finished. The sides and studs are satin-brushed and the flat surfaces are polished.

Accurate workmanship

Whatever the position and function of the components, these finishing operations are entirely done by hand using traditional tools in the workshops of Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud. The quality control of this finishing is performed at a far higher degree of magnification than usual, with a 6x loupe. Under such intense scrutiny, no detail, however tiny, goes unnoticed.

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No error, imperfection or insufficiency is tolerated. Such is the horological excellence cultivated by Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud as part of its unfailing commitment to precision for explorers. This respect for watchmaking tradition, expressed in resolutely modern terms through Ferdinand Berthoud chronometers, will remain at the core of future developments from the Maison.
 
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Technical Specifications

Model:  CHRONOMÈTRE FB 1L -
REF. FB 1R.6-1
20-piece stainless steel limited numbered edition

MOVEMENT
Mechanical hand-wound . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  Calibre FB-T.FC.R

Diameter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 35.50 mm
Thickness . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  9-89 mm
Lines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .15 ¾
Jewels . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  49
Frequency . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21,600 vph (3 Hz)
Power reserve . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . approx. 53 hours env.

TECHNICAL CHARACTERISTICS   
• Chain-and-fusee tourbillon (constant force)
   Suspended fusee – winding differential system (PATENT)
   Suspended barrel – Maltese Cross stopwork system (PATENT)
   Suspended power-reserve – mobile cone system (PATENT)
   Tourbillon with direct-drive seconds hand (PATENT)

• Regulator-type display
• Power-reserve indicator with levers and spiral spring
• Variable-inertia balance comprising four rhodium-plated nickel silver inertia weights
• Balance spring with hand-crafted Phillips terminal curve (stainless steel)
• Swiss lever escapement
• Cut-out and engraved nickel silver half-bridges, secured to polished stylised titanium bridges
• Hand finishing meeting the highest watchmaking standards

Components . . . . . . .  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1,158 (including the chain)
Chain . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 790 components
Chain length        . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .285 mm
Half-bridges . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .18
Pillars . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6

Tourbillon
Rotation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 /minute
Components . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .67
Tourbillon carriage . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Ø 16.55 mm (titanium)
Tourbillon carriage affixed to . . . . . . . . . . . .. . . .3 polished titanium pillars
Tourbillon carriage poised by . . . . . . . . . . . .  2 inertia-blocks in 18-carat gold
Balance wheel. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Ø 12 mm (copper-beryllium)

Officially chronometer-certified by the COSC

INDICATIONS
• Hours on a disc at 2 o’clock, pointer-type minute display at 12 o’clock, central sweep-seconds hand and power-reserve indicator at 10 o’clock
CASE
• Case in ultra-resistant carburised stainless steel, fitted with two transparent sapphire crystal portholes 
Total diameter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  44 mm
Thickness . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13.95 mm
Water resistance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .30 metres
Crown diameter. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .              9 mm
Numbered edition . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  01/20 to 20/20

• Dynamometric crown (uncoupling system) in stainless steel, with black ceramic medallion
• Screw-down stainless steel case-back fitted with a glare-proofed sapphire crystal
• Domed and arched sapphire crystal, with anti-reflective treatment on both sides
DIAL
• Regulator plate (dial) in black rhodium-plated nickel silver, satin-brushed by hand
• Hours indication on a sapphire disc at 2 o’clock
• Minutes subdial at 12 o’clock, cut-out, bead-blasted, rhodium-plated and bearing black Arabic numerals
• Flat seconds inner bezel ring, in bead-blasted black rhodium-plated nickel silver
• Power-reserve indication at 10 o’clock engraved on the regulator plate “0-1” and coloured in grey
• Inscription: “CHRONOMÈTRE VAL-DE-TRAVERS SUISSE”
HANDS
 • Dagger-shaped facetted and openworked minutes hand in 18-carat white gold with blue CVD coating
• Steel fixed hour-marker with blue CVD coating
• Gilded steel arrow-shaped power-reserve hand
• Gilded bronze central sweep-seconds hand
STRAP AND BUCKLE

• Rolled-edge hand-sewn alligator leather strap made from a single piece of leather (115 x 75 mm with a 20 mm buckle) – Various sizes available on request
• Length-adjustable double-blade titanium folding clasp – Pin buckle available on request

Limitation    20 watches

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Press Release - 2019
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Chronométrie FERDINAND BERTHOUD SA
Rue des Moulins 20
Case postale 128
2114 Fleurier, Val-de-Travers (NE)
Switzerland
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Thursday, October 17, 2019

ZENITH – EL PRIMERO Revival A384 ‘Edge of Space’ for MR PORTER

















ZENITH 50th EL PRIMERO Revival A384 ‘Edge of Space’ for MR PORTER Titanium Anniversary Limited Edition

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MR PORTER collaborates with Zenith and Bamford Watch Department on a second exclusive:
The El Primero Revival A384 Edge of Space Limited Edition

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14 OCTOBER 2019 (GLOBAL) – MR PORTER, the award-winning online destination for men’s style, has once again partnered with Swiss fine-watch manufacturer Zenith and British watch customiser Bamford Watch Department in creating an exclusive limited-edition timepiece, the El Primero Revival A384 Edge of Space Limited Edition, with only 50 produced, available for sale on 18 November 2019

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This is the second collaboration between the three parties, having launched last year’s sell-out success, the Solar Blue.  For the El Primero Revival A384 Edge of Space Limited Edition, Mr George Bamford of Bamford Watch Department and MR PORTER worked alongside Zenith in the design of this watch, which was entirely developed and produced in-house at Zenith’s Manufacture.

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Inspired by the Zenith El Primero Revival A384 model, the watch takes inspiration from several of the brand’s historical design elements. These subtle touches include the tachymeter, which references back to a 1984/86 El Primero, sub dials inspired by the calibre 146-HP from 1970, aesthetic reminders of a vintage chronograph case alongside vintage dial text font restored from the original A384.

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Its unique “Edge of Space” blue dial is framed by a 37mm titanium micro blasted case, fitted with a navy blue Cordura-effect rubber strap featuring minimal white stitching designed to complement the white dial markings. Combining all of these various touchpoints, Zenith, Bamford Watch Department and MR PORTER have created a watch that is both familiar and yet altogether minimal and modern. Each of these limited-edition watches will feature a special open case-back engraved and individually numbered one to 50.

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Following on from the success of last years ‘Solar Blue’ Limited Edition, we are excited to launch our next exclusive collaboration with Zenith and Bamford Watch Department – the ‘Edge of Space’. Taking inspiration from Zenith’s archive and weaving iconic elements into the El Primero A384, the end result is supremely modern and unique.”

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Ms Fiona Firth, Buying Director, MR PORTER

"I’m always positively surprised when I see how Bamford Watch Department reimagines one of iconic watches. For the 50th anniversary of the El Primero, the A384 was the perfect canvas to create something outstanding yet typical of Bamford’s distinctive style, exclusively for MR PORTER.”
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 Mr Julien Tornare, CEO, Zenith

I am so excited to be working on another limited edition created by the amazing team at Zenith exclusively for MR PORTER. Using the historic case of the El Primero A384, this edition feels almost like a prototype straight out of Zenith’s skunk works, with a titanium case and a black-blue dial paired back to the essential elements of the original A384, creating a fresh interpretation of this watch model. The classic references meeting the modern design has been an amazing process from a designer and manufacturer perspective.”
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TECHNICAL DETAILS

Collection: 50th Ll Primero Anniversary
 
Model:  EL PRIMERO Revival A384 ‘Edge of Space’ Limited Edition

Reference: 97.A384.400/27.C821

UNIQUE SELLING POINTS
  • Based on the original revival of the A384
  • Automatic El Primero column-wheel chronograph
  • Prototype inspiration for the whole design
  • 37-mm titanium micro blasted case
  • Special “Edge of Space” dial
MOVEMENT
Movement: El Primero 400
, Automatic
Caliber: 13 ¼ ‘’’ (Diameter: 30 mm)
Movement thickness: 6.6 mm
Components: 254
Jewels: 31
Frequency: 36,000 VpH (5 Hz)
Power-reserve: min. 50 hours
Finishes: Oscillating weight with “Côtes de Genève” motif

FUNCTIONS
Hours and minutes in the centre
Small seconds at nine o’clock 
Chronograph:
  • central chronograph hand
  • 12-hour counter at six o’clock
  • 30-minute counter at three o’clock
Tachymetric scale
Date indication at 4.30
CASE
Dimeter: 37 mm
Material: Titanium case with dark grey microblasted finishings
Dimeter opening: 32.3 mm
Thickness: 12.60 mm
Crystal: Domed sapphire crystal with anti-reflective treatment on both sides
Case-back: Transparent sapphire crystal engraved with limited edition
Water-resistance: 5 ATM
DIAL & HANDS
Dial: Special “Edge of Space” blue dial with black counters.
Hour-markers: white dots in Super-LumiNova®SLN C1 – Blue emission
Hands: rhodium-plated, faceted and coated with Super-LumiNova®SLN C1 – Blue emission
STRAPS & BUCKLES
Strap: Blue “cordura effect” strap and white stitching
Buckle: Titanium micro blasted pin buckle

Limited Edition
Available for sale on 18 November exclusively only 50-Piece 


 Mr George Bamford, Founder, Bamford Watch Department
Prices: €8,900 EUR / £7,200 GBP / $8,600 USD

Customers can sign up and register interest at MR PORTER here ▶️ http://bit.ly/2Be0v2D


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About MR PORTER
Since launching in February 2011, MR PORTER has established itself as the award-winning global retail and content destination for men’s style, with an unparalleled product offering from the world’s best menswear and lifestyle brands, including own labels Mr P. and Kingsman. MR PORTER publishes unmatched content through its weekly shoppable digital magazine, The Journal, its bimonthly newspaper, The MR PORTER Post, and its bite-sized, several-times-a-day digital news source, The Daily. MR PORTER offers express worldwide shipping to more than 170 countries, including same-day delivery to New York and London, and provides a seamless shopping experience across mobile, tablet, and desktop, with easy returns and multi-lingual customer care and personal-shopping teams who are available 24/7, 365 days a year.  
MR PORTER.COM
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Press Release - 2019
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ZENITH | Swiss Watch Manufacture Since 1865
Rue des Billodes 34-36 | CH-2400 Le Locle
Minh-Tan-Bui
Tel. +41 32 930 65 59
Mobile +41 79 515 47 54
Email: minh-tan.bui@zenith-watches.com
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