FERDINAND BERTHOUD – CHRONOMETRIE FB RSM Edition

 

FERDINAND BERTHOUD – CHRONOMÉTRIE FB RSM Tourbillon Gold 44mm Limited Edition 2022 

CHRONOMETRIE FB RSM:
AN ORIGINAL COMPLICATION DEVELOPED IN THE
GRAND TRADITION OF WATCHMAKING APPRENTICESHIP

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Ferdinand Berthoud devoted his life to experimentation and to passing on his knowledge by publishing numerous specialised works and training apprentices. The Chronomètre FB RSM continues this tradition by enabling a young watchmaker from the University of Neuchâtel to participate in the development of the movement as part of his graduation project.

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The FB-T.FC-RSM calibre, a tourbillon regulator with fusee-and-chain transmission, for the first time incorporates two complications appreciated by discerning collectors: independent deadbeat seconds visible on the dial side and a stop-seconds mechanism.

The historical source: Marine Clock No. 8

The Chronomètre FB RSM stands at the crossroads of the paths once trodden by Ferdinand Berthoud: between exploration and transmission, as well as between precision and innovation. Its design is inspired by the Marine Clock No. 8, known as H.M.8.

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This is a very unusual clock. Dated 1768, it has a regulator-type display, meaning the indication of the hours, minutes and seconds is not coaxial. This type of display made it possible to improve the reading of time and thus to serve as a reference for seaborne navigation measurements: this is the role of a ‘time-keeper’ instrument in the truest sense of the term. 

Click, to see the large size. ▶ BIG FOTOThe hours are indicated on a disc at 2 o'clock. The minutes are also off-centred, with a dedicated counter at 12 o’clock. The seconds hand reigns supreme, occupying the central part of the watch face and advancing in one-second jumps (based on the ‘deadbeat’ seconds principle). All these functions are driven by a vertical movement, regulated by a thermo-compensated balance-spring equipped with inertia blocks.

Unique architecture

The FB-T.FC-RSM calibre features a pillar-type architecture, in which both the barrel and the inverted fusee are suspended and patented.

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This fusee-and-chain mechanism is inspired by that of Ferdinand Berthoud's marine chronometers. It ensures the distribution of energy by delivering ‘constant force’ to the patented tourbillon with direct-drive seconds. 

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This construction reduces the thickness of the movement – which at just 9.89 mm remains very thin for its category despite the regulator-type display and the integration of an independent deadbeat seconds mechanism.

An exclusive horological complication, created during an apprenticeship

In terms of both display and operation, the Chronomètre FB RSM offers a present-day take on the regulator-type principle. The hours are read off via a rotating disc at 2 o'clock; the minutes are indicated by a facetted and skeletonised hand on the subdial at 12 o'clock; and, as a symbol of precision, the seconds hand occupies a central position on the watch face.

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The “SM” letters added to the calibre reference pertain to the deadbeat seconds mechanism (seconde morte in French), while a balance-stop device enables the tourbillon to be stopped when setting the time to the exact second.

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In keeping with the tradition cherished by Ferdinand Berthoud, this complication was developed with a young apprentice watchmaker who devoted his graduation project to it. His work combined the history of deadbeat seconds clocks, the identification of related patents, and the development of the complication for the Tourbillon Régulateur à Force Constante (constant-force tourbillon regulator) calibre which was to house it. 

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Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud also wanted this complication to fit into the movement’s existing dimensions, while guaranteeing precision-timing performance duly attested by the COSC chronometer certification.

Deadbeat seconds and balance-stop device: the challenges of chronometry

The creation of a deadbeat seconds mechanism is a major challenge for any watch that claims to earn chronometer certification. This is because stopping and restarting the central hand in one-second jumps involves three steps: stopping the gear train concerned; storing the torque it continues to produce during this pause; and then releasing it all at once after one second.  

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Since the regularity of the torque is the essence of a constant-force calibre, interrupting its flow 60 times a minute without compromising its linearity is a true technical feat – which is why the majority of deadbeat seconds movements fail to achieve COSC certification. The Chronomètre FB RSM has been awarded this certification and is therefore a true timekeeper, like the Marine Clocks by the Master Watchmaker himself.

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The 18-carat gold dial is hand-engraved and bears the "No. 8" inscription like the original No. 8 Marine Clock, the inspiration for the FB RSM model. The deadbeat seconds mechanism is visible through a special symbolically figure-eight-shaped aperture at 9 o'clock

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Only 20 movements will be produced, and several key exterior elements can be chosen by the collector. They may be fitted inside a round or octagonal case. The 18-carat gold dial may retain its natural colour or receive a PVD treatment, giving it a glimmering metallic sheen. The 53-hour power reserve is visible from the back, close to the three key components of the FB-T.FC.RSM suspended movement: the fusee, the barrel and the tourbillon with direct-drive seconds.

Additional background knowledge

A longstanding tradition of apprenticeship

Few watchmakers can boast Ferdinand Berthoud's consistency in transmitting and perpetuating his knowledge. Barely had he opened his Paris workshop when he took his first apprentice under his wing for eight years. Jacques-Vincent Martin followed in 1766 and actually spent 20 years at Berthoud's side. Ferdinand also taught watchmaking to his nephew Pierre-Louis Berthoud (1754-1813), known as Louis Berthoud, as well as to a Spanish apprentice, Cayetano Sánchez, who was sent to learn from Ferdinand Berthoud how to maintain the clocks sent to the Spanish Armada in its quest to conquer the oceans. Ferdinand Berthoud also trained Jean Martin, another brilliant apprentice who cooperated with his master in creating several longitude clocks and astronomical pocket watches.

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These examples illustrate the two main focuses of Ferdinand Berthoud's career: the development of Marine Clocks, and the constant concern for passing on and recording his knowledge. In recognition of his skills in the first aspect of his work, he was awarded the title of Horloger mécanicien du Roi et de la Marine (Watchmaker-Mechanic by appointment to the King and Navy) in 1770.  

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He expanded the second aspect through an extremely abundant body of literature: about ten works and treatises, in addition to his contributions to the Encyclopaedia of Diderot and d'Alembert.

Why the Marine Clock No. 8?

Marine Clock No.8, owned by Louis XV, was tested at sea for two years (1768 - 1769). It is kept at the National Conservatory of Arts and Craft (CNAM) in Paris.

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The choice of this clock as a source of inspiration owes nothing to chance: it was this creation that earned Ferdinand Berthoud his precious royal warrant in 1770. This historic timepiece most probably benefited from the collaboration of the master's apprentice, Jacques-Vincent Martin, who had entered the service of Ferdinand Berthoud two years earlier, in 1766. The young man was to become a leading watchmaker and in 1786 was appointed Director of the Dépôt des Horloges Marine in Brest. 

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TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS

Model:  CHRONOMÈTRE FB 2RSM Gold Edition

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• 🟠REF. FB 2RsM.2
  

CASE
• Round case in 18-carat rose gold, fitted with a transparent sapphire ‘porthole’
Total diameter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .     44 mm
Thickness . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .    14.30 mm
Water resistance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .    30 metres
Crown diameter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .    9 mm

• 18-carat rose gold dynamometric crown (decoupling system)
• 18-carat rose gold screw-in case-back with a glare-proofed sapphire crystal
• Domed “chevee” sapphire crystal, glare-proofed on both sides
DIAL
• Openworked regulator plate (dial) in sandblasted and hand-engraved 18-carat rose gold
• Hours indication on sapphire disc at 2 o’clock
• Openworked, sandblasted and silver-toned minutes subdial at 12 o'clock with black Arabic numerals
• Flat inner bezel ring bearing the seconds graduation, in sandblasted silver-toned brass
• Deadbeat seconds mechanism visible at 9 o'clock
HANDS
• Facetted and skeletonised dagger-shaped minutes hand in 18-carat gold with blue CVD treatment
• Steel fixed hours pointer with blue CVD treatment
• Central seconds hand in titanium with blue CVD treatment
• Arrow-type power-reserve hand in 18-carat gold with blue CVD treatment on the back of the movement
STRAP AND BUCKLE
• Hand-sewn rolled-edge strap crafted from a single piece of alligator leather (125 x 70 mm, with a 20 mm buckle) – Various sizes available on request
• 18-carat rose gold pin buckle – Folding clasp available on request

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• 🔴 REF. FB 2RsM.2-1

CASE
• Round case in 18-carat rose gold, fitted with a transparent sapphire ‘porthole’
Total diameter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .    44 mm
Thickness . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .    14.30 mm
Water resistance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .30 metres
Crown diameter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  9 mm

• 18-carat rose gold dynamometric crown (decoupling system)
• 18-carat rose gold screw-in case-back with a glare-proofed sapphire crystal
• Domed “chevee” sapphire crystal, glare-proofed on both sides
DIAL
• Openworked regulator plate (dial) in vertical satin-brushed and hand-engraved 18-carat gold with black rhodium treatment
• Hours indication on sapphire disc at 2 o’clock
• Openworked, sandblasted and silver-toned minutes subdial at 12 o'clock with black Arabic numerals
• Flat inner bezel ring bearing the seconds graduation, in sandblasted silver-toned brass
• Deadbeat seconds mechanism visible at 9 o'clock
HANDS
• Facetted and skeletonised dagger-shaped minutes hand in 18-carat rose gold
• Gilded steel fixed hours pointer
• Gilded central seconds hand in titanium
• Arrow-type power-reserve hand in 18-carat white gold on the back of the movement
STRAP AND BUCKLE
• Hand-sewn rolled-edge strap crafted from a single piece of alligator leather (125 x 70 mm, with a 20 mm buckle) – Various sizes available on request
• 18-carat rose gold pin buckle – Folding clasp available on request

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• 🔵 REF. FB 2RsM. 1

CASE
• Round case in 18-carat white gold, fitted with a transparent sapphire ‘porthole’
Total diameter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  44 mm
Thickness . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .    14.30 mm
Water resistance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .    30 metres
Crown diameter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .    9 mm

• 18-carat white gold dynamometric crown (decoupling system), with black ceramic medallion
• 18-carat white gold screw-in case-back with a glare-proofed sapphire crystal
• Domed “chevee” sapphire crystal, glare-proofed on both sides
DIAL
• Openworked regulator plate (dial) in vertical satin-brushed and hand-engraved 18-carat gold with blue CVD treatment
• Hours indication on sapphire disc at 2 o’clock
• Openworked, sandblasted and silver-toned minutes subdial at 12 o'clock with black Arabic numerals
• Flat inner bezel ring bearing the seconds graduation, in sandblasted silver-toned brass
• Deadbeat seconds mechanism visible at 9 o'clock
HANDS
• Facetted and skeletonised dagger-shaped minutes hand in 18-carat white gold
• Steel fixed hours pointer
• Central seconds hand in titanium
• Arrow-type power-reserve hand in 18-carat gold with blue CVD treatment on the back of the movement
STRAP AND BUCKLE
• Hand-sewn rolled-edge strap crafted from a single piece of alligator leather (125 x 70 mm, with a 20 mm buckle) – Various sizes available on request
• 18-carat white gold pin buckle – Folding clasp available on request

FUNCTIONS
• Disc-type hours display at 2 o'clock, pointer-type minutes display at 12 o'clock, deadbeat seconds in the centre, stop-seconds device and power reserve

MOVEMENT
Mechanical hand-wound . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  Calibre FB-T.FC.RSM
Diameter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .     37.30 mm
Thickness . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9.89 mm
Lignes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .     15 ¾
Jewels. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .    60
Frequency . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .     21,600 vph (3 Hz)
Power reserve . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 53 hours
Limited edition (all case types) . . . . . . . . . . . .  20 movements

TECHNICAL CHARACTERISTICS   
• Tourbillon with fusee-and-chain transmission (constant force)
Suspended fusee – differential winding system (PATENT)
Suspended barrel – Maltese cross stopwork system (PATENT)
• Regulator-type display
• Independent deadbeat mechanism visible on the dial side
• Power-reserve indicator on the back of the movement
• Variable-inertia balance with four nickel silver inertia blocks
• Balance spring with hand-crafted Phillips outer terminal curve (steel)
• Swiss lever escapement
• Crown-activated stop-seconds mechanism
• Half-bridges in nickel silver, fixed on stylised polished steel pillars
• Hand-finished to the highest watchmaking standards
Components . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .     1169 (including chain)
Chain . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .    790 components
Length of the chain . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 285 mm
Half-bridges . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .     18
Pillars      . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .    6

Tourbillon
Rotation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .    1 /minute
Components . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .     67
Tourbillon carriage. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .    Ø 16.55 mm (titanium)
Tourbillon carriage fixed to . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .     3 polished titanium pillars
Tourbillon carriage poised by . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 weights in 18-carat gold
Balance wheel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .    Ø 12 mm (copper-beryllium)

Officially chronometer-certified by the COSC
 

Limitation  Only 20 pieces of each version watches

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Press Release - 2022
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Chronométrie FERDINAND BERTHOUD SA
Rue des Moulins 20
Case postale 128
2114 Fleurier, Val-de-Travers (NE)
Switzerland
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www.facebook.com - Ferdinand Berthoud 
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www.FerdinandBerthoud.ch

Chronometrie Ferdinand Berthoud - The successes achieved in 2021

 

FERDINAND BERTHOUD – CHRONOMÉTRIE - The successes achieved in 2021

Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud named "Best Independent Brand" at the Middle East Watch & Jewellery Awards 2021. This award marks the close of an extremely successful year for the Maison, which has been committed since the outset to offering collections inspired by the work of Ferdinand Berthoud.

Click, to see the large size. ▶ BIG FOTO Like Ferdinand Berthoud, whose every timepiece was improved and transformed to meet his clients’ expectations, the Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud collections have evolved since their 2015 launch by paying close attention to feedback from collectors and watch professionals.

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The ▶️ Régulateur Squelette (Chronomètre FB RS) introduced in 2021 is the result of this ongoing exchange of views: a collection that redefines the notion of a limited edition by introducing a limitation on the number of movements produced and no longer on the model reference.

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This approach has met with great success among collectors, offering them the possibility of creating a timepiece in their own image by choosing a round or octagonal case for the same movement.

Click, to see the large size. ▶ BIG FOTOThis concept has led to bespoke creations – featuring dials with blue or green PVD coating and a case in steel or yellow gold – all evenly divided, with 10 of the 20 movements housed in a round case and 10 in an octagonal case.

Click, to see the large size. ▶ BIG FOTOThe Maison’s presence at trade shows (Watches and Wonders Shanghai, Geneva Watch Days and Dubai Watch Week) has confirmed the public's enthusiasm for its creations. "Some collectors have been following what we have been doing since the beginning with great interest”, explains Karl-Friedrich Scheufele, President of Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud. "The majority emphasise the consistency of our developments and the quality of our timepieces, the primary criteria guiding each of our choices."

Click, to see the large size. ▶ BIG FOTOHe concludes by stating that "The recent ‘Best Independent Brand’ distinction at the Middle East Watch & Jewellery of the Year Awards 2021 is a form of recognition of the work done this year and encourages us to continue on this path. We are eagerly looking forward to introducing you to the watch creations we have in store for you next year.”   

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Press Release - 2021
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Chronométrie FERDINAND BERTHOUD SA
Rue des Moulins 20
Case postale 128
2114 Fleurier, Val-de-Travers (NE)
Switzerland
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www.facebook.com - Ferdinand Berthoud 
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www.FerdinandBerthoud.ch

FERDINAND BERTHOUD – Chronometre FB 1.6-3 Tourbillon Black Edition

FERDINAND BERTHOUD – Chronomètre FB 1.6-3 Tourbillon Black Steel Edition - Unique Piece 2021

CHRONOMÈTRE FB 1.6-3: A unique timepiece 
COMBINing SPORT AND CHARITY for ART IN TIME

With its black DLC-treated steel case, rubber strap, and vertical satin-finish black dial, the Chronomètre FB 1.6-3 exudes a sports feel at first sight. Its movement boasts angled sapphire half bridges, echoing the modernity of its housing.

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Among the output of Fine Watchmaking manufactures, creations in steel are often the most sought-after, being much rarer than their gold and platinum counterparts. The new Chronomètre FB 1.6-3 is all the more remarkable in that it is the first all-black creation by Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud. The unique piece has been exclusively designed for the ART IN TIME watch gallery in Monaco, with part of the proceeds from its sale passed on to charity.

Unique and historic

The singular nature of this timepiece is clear at first glance. For the first time, Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud has decked out one of its models in black DLC. This bold move is nevertheless consistent with developments to date: right from its inception, in addition to technical performance inspired by the values of Fine Watchmaking, the manufacture has sought to endow its timepieces with an unashamedly contemporary look. 

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The FB 1.6-3 explores this modern ethos – and pushes back its boundaries. It’s both sporty and daring, with the case, bezel, flange, dial, crown, and strap clad entirely in black. It’s also the first ever steel case in the FB 1 collection, making this model very much one of a kind.

The Monaco connection

In a first for the manufacture, Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud has applied an all-black DLC treatment to the fine sand-blasted steel. The crown is fitted with a ceramic insert; the screws fastening the case are in titanium.

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The vertical satin-finish dial benefits from a semi-matte black galvanised treatment. The even-numbered hours, seconds hand, and power reserve are coloured red, standing out eloquently. The combination of dark black and bright red contributes to the sports feel of the piece, as well as making its indications effortless to read.

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To complete the nod to ART IN TIME’s Monaco identity, the Chronomètre FB 1.6-3 features a white seconds scale and minute circle, thus echoing the House of Grimaldi’s two heraldic colours, red and white. In line with ART IN TIME’s tradition of unique pieces, part of the proceeds from the sale of the watch will be passed on to the Prince Albert II of Monaco Foundation, dedicated to building a sustainable future.

Full transparency

Front and back, the timepiece exemplifies the manufacture’s demanding standards in finishing. The hour and minute counter is finely sand-blasted and treated with matte BlackOr; hour markers have been coated with Super-LumiNova. The hours and minutes hands and power reserve indicator are in gold, while the seconds hand is made of polished bronze.

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All that aside, the main feature is not immediately apparent: sapphire. In the FB 1.6-3, it takes pride of place, both on the dial, for the flange, and also on the back, for the half bridges. The latter are finely angled, engraved, and coloured red, enclosing the tourbillon carriage and its central seconds hand. Equipped with a fusee-and-chain transmission – the oldest and most complex solution for providing an escapement with constant force – the FB 1.6-3 guarantees Chronometer certified accuracy.

A tried and tested movement

The manufacture movement can be admired through one of the side portholes in the octagonal case that has now become the style signature of this Ferdinand Berthoud collection. The case houses the FB-T.FC-2 calibre, the construction of which is unique in contemporary watchmaking. With 15 bridges and 3 half bridges connected by vertical pillars, Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud has designed a movement that brings to mind eighteenth-century marine chronometers, with barrel and fusee suspended, as is the cone – on which a feeler rises and falls, indicating the power reserve.

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“Each of our creations has its own identity. This one is no exception, communicating a decidedly sporty feel,” concludes Karl-Friedrich Scheufele, President of Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud. “Over the past few years, the FB 1 collection has demonstrated its capacity to embody a range of different styles. There can be no doubt that this unique watch marks a major milestone in our history – and a significant step towards the ultimate customisation possibilities opened up by the collection.”

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About the Prince Albert II of Monaco Foundation:

For the best part of 15 years now, through his Foundation, HSH Prince Albert ll of Monaco has been actively involved in protecting the environment and promoting sustainable development to counter threats to the planet. Committed to research, technological innovation, and tackling major social challenges, the Foundation funds projects in the Mediterranean basin, the polar regions, and the world’s least socially and economically developed countries. Its goals are to mitigate the effects of climate change, promote renewable energy, preserve biodiversity, manage water resources, and fight against desertification.

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TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS

Model: Chronometre FB 1.6-3 Edition

REF. FB 1.6-3
Black DLC-treated STAINLESS steel; UNIQUE piece


CASE
• Black DLC-treated octagonal stainless steel case with two transparent sapphire portholes
Total diameter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .     44 mm
Thickness . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  13 mm
Water resistance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  30 metres
Crown diameter. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9 mm
Limited edition. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .     Unique piece

• Black DLC-treated stainless steel dynamometric crown (decoupling system) with black ceramic medallion
• Black DLC-treated stainless steel screw-in case-back with glare-proofed sapphire crystal
• Domed, arched sapphire crystal, glare-proofed on both sides

DIAL
• Vertical satin-brushed dial with semi-matte black galvanised treatment
• Angled open dial centre and power reserve indicator; black bevels
• Off-centre hours and minutes sub-dial, sand-blasted, semi-matte black galvanised treatment, red Arabic numerals
• Black translucent sapphire crystal seconds track
• Power reserve indication engraved on base plate: “0_1/4_1/2_3/4_1”
• Power reserve indicator: arrow pointing to the words “HAUT” and “BAS” (‘HIGH’ and ‘LOW’)
• Inscription: “Chronomètre Val-de-Travers Suisse”
HANDS
• Facetted and openworked dagger-type minutes hand in 18-carat white gold, coated with white luminous material (Super-LumiNova)
• Red varnished 18-carat white gold arrow-shaped power reserve hand
• Red varnished bronze central seconds hand

STRAP AND BUCKLE
• Rubber strap (115 x 75mm, 20mm buckle) – Range of sizes available on request
• Black DLC-treated 18-carat white gold pin buckle – Ceramised titanium, double-blade length-adjustable folding clasp available on request

FUNCTIONS
• Hours, minutes, seconds, power reserve

MOVEMENT
Mechanical manual winding. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .     Calibre FB-T.FC-2
Diameter. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .     35.50mm
Thickness. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .    7.96mm
Lines. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .    15 ¾
Jewels. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .    45
Frequency. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .    21,600 vibrations per hour (3Hz)
Power reserve. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .    53 hours

TECHNICAL CHARACTERISTICS   

• Tourbillon with fusee-and-chain (constant-force) transmission

   Suspended fusée – differential winding system (PATENT)
   Suspended barrel – Maltese cross stopwork system (PATENT)
   Suspended power reserve – mobile cone system (PATENT)
   Tourbillon with direct-drive seconds hand (PATENT)

• Variable-inertia balance wheel featuring four rhodium-plated nickel silver inertia blocks
• Balance spring with hand-crafted steel Phillips terminal curve
• Swiss lever escapement
• Three angled, engraved transparent sapphire half bridges, fitted on stylised titanium pillars
• Hand finishes to the highest watchmaking standards
  

Components. . . . . . .  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .    1119 (including chain)
Chain. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .    790 components
Length of the chain. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .    285mm
Bridges. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .    18, including 3 sapphire
Pillars. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .    6

TOURBILLON
Rotation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .     1 /minute
Components . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .    67
Tourbillon carriage . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .    Ø 16.55 mm (titanium)
Tourbillon carriage assembled with. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .    3 polished titanium pillars
Tourbillon carriage poised by. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .     2 inertia blocks in 18-carat gold
Balance wheel. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .    Ø 12 mm in copper-beryllium

Officially chronometer-certified by the COSC
 

Limitation  Only 20 - UNIQUE piece of each version watches 

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FONDATION PRINCE ALBERT II DE MONACO
Villa Girasole 16, Boulevard de Suisse
98000 MONACO – MONACO
Tel (+377) 98 98 44 44
E-mail: contact@fpa2.org

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www.Art-in-Time.com
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Press Release - 2021
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Chronométrie FERDINAND BERTHOUD SA
Rue des Moulins 20
Case postale 128
2114 Fleurier, Val-de-Travers (NE)
Switzerland
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www.facebook.com - Ferdinand Berthoud 
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www.FerdinandBerthoud.ch

FERDINAND BERTHOUD – Chronometre FB RS Regulateur Squelette Tourbillon Edition

FERDINAND BERTHOUD – Chronomètre FB RS Régulateur Squelette Tourbillon Edition 2021

The new Régulateur Squelette FB RS:
one movement, two cases

Only 20 examples of the new Régulateur Squelette movement will be produced and housed in a choice of round or octagonal cases.

Click, to see the large size. ▶ BIG FOTO

The calibre FB-T.FC-RS with tourbillon and fusee-and-chain transmission thus heralds a new approach for Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud, enabling collectors to appreciate the rarity of precision mechanics while choosing the case design that suits them best.

Click, to see the large size. ▶ BIG FOTO

It would have been inconceivable, almost three centuries ago, for someone to acquire a pocket watch or clock not entirely made to match one's personal taste. Over time, this consideration gradually ebbed away, replaced by standardisation as watches became widely distributed products. Nonetheless, this approach, which enabled watchmaking to flourish in an unprecedented way, does not fully correspond to the spirit of Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud.

A limited-edition movement

In a bid to strengthen ties with the original inspiration of its founder, Ferdinand Berthoud (1727 - 1807), the Manufacture bearing his name is introducing an evolved version of its business model: as of now, Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud will communicate the total number of units for each inhouse-made calibre.

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 "Our primary objective is to safeguard collectors’ interests," explains Karl-Friedrich Scheufele, President of Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud. "By explicitly specifying a pre-determined number of movements, we engage in a fully transparent procedure. Collectors are as sensitive to the rarity of their timepiece as they are to that of the calibre powering it. By communicating about both, we are placing watch movements and customers firmly front and centre, thus preserving the integrity of their collection.”

Click, to see the large size. ▶ BIG FOTO

This new mindset is embodied by a first creation: the Régulateur Squelette FB RS, a new model based on the FB-T.FC-RS calibre. For the first time, Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud has announced that the production of this movement will be strictly limited to 20 in all.

Click, to see the large size. ▶ BIG FOTO

This approach reinforces the determination expressed from the very beginning of the Manufacture: to produce only an extremely limited number of timepieces each year. In view of the chronometric and aesthetic requirements, as well as the inevitably lengthy development time inherent to each new creation, Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud is thus reaffirming its resolve to achieve absolute excellence, a goal necessarily implying limited production.

The first skeleton movement

The FB-T.FC-RS calibre is the first skeleton movement produced by the Manufacture. This regulator-type chronometer movement with tourbillon and fusee-and-chain transmission is the result of comprehensive technical and aesthetic development and is inspired by Marine Clock No. 8, produced by the master-watchmaker in Paris in 1768. 

Click, to see the large size. ▶ BIG FOTOThrough the opening visible at 2 o'clock, a large-diameter sapphire disc indicates the hours, while minutes are read off on the dial offset to 12 o'clock. The seconds are displayed on a flat sapphire inner bezel ring surrounding the dial.

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The bridges have been entirely designed to ensure an admirable view of the choreography performed by the imposing tourbillon carriage appearing on the dial side. Many components feature black PVD coating, alternating with polished, matt, vertical satin-brushed and sandblasted finishes. 

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The tourbillon bridge visible on the dial side is in itself a tour de force, with its mirror-polished and chamfered surfaces, polished flanks, and sandblasted underside. The decoration alone of each movement thus requires dozens of different craftsmanship skills. Nearly a year of trials was needed to achieve this level of finishing, enabling the complexity of this new movement on the dial side to be fully admired for the first time.

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The FB-T.FC-RS calibre features a pillar-type structure in which the barrel and the reverse fusee are both suspended and patented. This fusee-and-chain transmission mechanism is inspired by that of Ferdinand Berthoud's marine chronometers. It ensures the distribution of energy by delivering "constant force" to the tourbillon with its direct-drive seconds. This novel construction is the third patent to be filed.

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Finally, the fourth patent applies to the power-reserve indicator. Visible on the case-back side, a suspended truncated cone moves up and down along an arbor connected to the barrel. A feeler spindle in the form of a mobile arm tipped with a watch jewel reflects the state of wind of the barrel thanks to its position on the cone. It transmits the information to the power-reserve hand on the dial side by means of flat levers and a spiral spring.

Click, to see the large size. ▶ BIG FOTO

Like all Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud movements, the FB-T.FC-RS calibre is officially chronometer-certified and was submitted to the Fleuritest during its development phase.

One movement, two cases

The choice of watch exterior – from among the various combinations offered by Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud – will be left to the collector. Henceforth, the Manufacture will be offering two variations: the FB 1RS.6 with an octagonal case in carburised stainless steel and the FB 2RS.2 with a round case in 18-carat rose gold. This carburised steel has had its molecular structure reinforced, making its surface (1200 Vickers) extremely resistant to scratches and corrosion. The gold is of certified ethical origin.

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This approach is in line with the quality-driven vision adopted since the start of the Manufacture in 2015. The two successive awards at the 2019 and 2020 editions of the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève in the "Chronometry" category have demonstrated the reliability and precision of its timepieces. 

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Through this new initiative, Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud thus confirms its desire to exceed collectors' expectations by offering the unprecedented possibility of choosing the case shape.

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TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS

Model: Chronometre FB RS Regulateur Squelette

FUNCTIONS
• Hours appearing on a disc at 2 o’clock, pointer-type minute display at 12 o’clock, central sweep-seconds hand and power-reserve indication at 10 o’clock

MOVEMENT
Mechanical hand-wound . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  Calibre FB-T.FC.RS
Diameter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .     37,30 mm
Thickness . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .      9,89 mm
Lignes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .     15 ¾
Jewels . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .     49
Frequency . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .     21,600 vph (3 Hz)
Power reserve . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  53 hours
Limited production (encompassing all types of case) . . . 20 movements

TECHNICAL CHARACTERISTICS   
• Tourbillon with fusée-chain transmission (constant force)
Suspended fusée – winding differential system (PATENT)
Suspended barrel – Maltese cross stopwork system (PATENT)
Suspended power reserve – mobile cone system (PATENT)
Tourbillon with direct-drive seconds (PATENT)
• Regulator-type display
• Power-reserve indicator with levers and spiral spring
• Variable-inertia balance with four gilded nickel silver inertia blocks
• Balance-spring with hand-shaped Philips terminal curve (steel)
• Swiss lever escapement
• Openworked and engraved black PVD-treated nickel silver semi-bridges, supported by polished stylised pillars
• Hand-crafted finishes in keeping with the highest watchmaking standards
Components . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1,158 (including the chain)
Chain . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  790 components
Chain length . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  285 mm
Half-bridges . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18
Pillars . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .     6

Tourbillon
Rotation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1 /minute
Components . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .    67
Tourbillon carriage . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Ø 16.55 mm (titanium)
Tourbillon carriage supported by . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3 polished titanium pillars
Tourbillon carriage balanced by. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 poising weights in 18K gold
Balance-wheel. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  Ø 12 mm (cupro-beryllium)

Officially chronometer-certified by the COSC

•  ⭕️  REF. FB 1Rs.6 - stainless steel

Click, to see the large size. ▶ BIG FOTO

 

CASE
• Octagonal case in ultra-resistant carburised stainless steel, fitted with two transparent sapphire portholes
Total diameter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  44 mm
Thickness . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  13.95 mm
Water resistance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  30 metres
Crown diameter. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9 mm

• Dynamometric crown (decoupling system) in carburised stainless steel, with black ceramic medallion
• Carburised stainless steel screw-in case-back with glare-proofed sapphire crystal
• Domed, arched sapphire crystal, glare-proofed on both sides

DIAL
• Openworked regulator plate (dial) in vertical satin-brushed black PVD-treated nickel silver
• Hours indication on sapphire disc at 2 o’clock
• Openworked, sandblasted and silver-toned minutes dial at 12 o’clock, with black Arabic numerals
• Flat seconds inner bezel ring framing the sapphire dial
• “0_1” grey-coloured power-reserve indication engraved on the regulator plate at 10 o’clock

HANDS
• Facetted and openworked dagger-type minutes hand in 18-carat white gold with blue CVD treatment
• Steel fixed hours pointer 
• Arrow-shaped power-reserve hand in steel
• Rhodium-plated bronze central sweep-seconds hand

STRAP AND CLASP/BUCKLE
• Hand-sewn rolled-edge alligator leather strap made from a single piece of leather (125 x 70 mm – Various sizes available on request
• Titanium double-blade length-adjustable folding clasp with carburised stainless steel cap – Pin buckle available on request.


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•  ⭕️  REF. FB 2Rs.2 - Rose Gold
  

Click, to see the large size. ▶ BIG FOTO

 

CASE
• Round case in 18-carat rose gold, fitted with a transparent sapphire porthole
Total diameter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .     44 mm
Thickness . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .     14.26 mm
Water resistance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  30 metres
Crown diameter    . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  9 mm

• 18-carat rose gold dynamometric crown (decoupling system) with black ceramic medallion
• 18-carat rose gold screw-in case-back with glare-proofed sapphire crystal
• Domed, arched sapphire crystal, glare-proofed on both sides

DIAL
• Openworked regulator plate (dial) in vertical satin-brushed black PVD-treated nickel silver
• Hours indication on sapphire disc at 2 o’clock
• Openworked, sandblasted and silver-toned minutes dial at 12 o’clock, with black Arabic numerals
• Flat seconds inner bezel ring framing the sapphire dial
• “0_1” grey-coloured power-reserve indication engraved on the regulator plate at 10 o’clock

HANDS
• Facetted and openworked dagger-type minutes hand in 18-carat white gold with blue CVD treatment
• Steel fixed hours pointer with blue CVD treatment
• Aarrow-type power-reserve hand in 18-carat rose gold
• Gilded bronze central sweep-seconds hand

STRAP AND CLASP/BUCKLE
• Hand-sewn rolled-edge alligator leather strap made from a single piece of leather (125 x 70 mm) – Various sizes available on request
• 18-carat rose gold double-blade length-adjustable folding clasp – pin buckle available on request.
 

Limitation  Only 20 pieces of each version watches

=====================--
Press Release - 2021
-------------------------------------
-------------------------------------------------------------
Chronométrie FERDINAND BERTHOUD SA
Rue des Moulins 20
Case postale 128
2114 Fleurier, Val-de-Travers (NE)
Switzerland
-------------------------------------------------------------------
www.facebook.com - Ferdinand Berthoud 
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
www.FerdinandBerthoud.ch