F.P.Journe – VAGABONDAGE I Gold Series Edition

F.P.Journe – Limited SERIES Vagabondage I 6N Gold Series Edition 2022    

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 Vagabondage I Gold
Final chapter of a trilogy started 18 years ago

In 1997, François-Paul Journe created for a friend a model equipped with a unique automatic movement housed in a round yellow Gold case, named CarpeDiem. This piece features a dial with a wandering jump hour display around a central exposed balance wheel. 

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Later, François-Paul Journe developed a wandering hours wristwatch with a hand-wound movement, almost mimicking the dial of the CarpeDiem, though redesigned to fit into a Flat Tortue® case. 

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However, busy with other projects, he decided to leave this model at the prototype stage.

 In 2003, François-Paul Journe was contacted by Antiquorum, which was organizing a charity sale for its 30th anniversary for the benefit of the ICM Foundation. They were looking for a "unique piece", within a limited timeframe of six months. Seeing it impossible to come up with something new in such a short time, he decided to rework the Vagabondage prototype. 

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In the end, it is not just one, but three unique "Vagabondage" pieces that were presented: one with a rose Gold case, one in yellow Gold, and one in white Gold, all with Brass movements.

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For aesthetic reasons, the brand name is completely absent from the dial. The auction having been a real success, François-Paul Journe received many requests to include the model in his production, and to make it available to a wider public of collectors; which he agreed to do, but in very limited production, given the aesthetic dissimilarity with his other creations at the time.

2004: Vagabondage I Platinum - Caliber 1504

Vagabondage I is the first timepiece edited in a limited production of 69 Platinum cases with rose Gold movement. 

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It features digital jumping hours in a wandering window, which position indicates the minutes. Just as the trilogy offered at auction in 2003, the dial is free of any inscriptions. 

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This particularity will be kept, as well as the use of a hand-wound movement.

2010: Vagabondage II - Caliber 1509

In keeping with the stylistic trademark of its predecessor, the Vagabondage II was cased in a Flat Tortue® case in Platinum, but with a digital hours and digital minutes time display. 

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Given its growing reputation and community, François-Paul Journe decided to produce 68 pieces in 6N Gold, in addition to the 69 Platinum cases. 

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To the series collectors, he offers each owner of a Vagabondage I the opportunity to acquire the same serial number for the Vagabondage II.

2017: Vagabondage III - Caliber 1514

In 👉2017, the last series appears, coupled with a world first: The Vagabondage III features a digital hours and digital seconds display. This function has never been developed in watchmaking due to its demanding complexity.  

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The Vagabondage III is limited to 68 pieces in 6N gold, in addition to 69 in Platinum. Once again, François-Paul Journe offers the first allocations to the owners of the Vagabondage II bearing the same number.

2022: Vagabondage I Gold - Caliber 1504.2

To complete the Gold trilogy, F.P.Journe presents this last iteration, which is however not an exact copy of the Vagabondage I Platinum introduced in 2004. 

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ointing to a gap of nearly 18 years, the Vagabondage I Gold features an updated movement, reference 1504.2, still manually wound, and a 45.2 x 37.5 mm case. 

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As François-Paul Journe says: “The first Vagabondage can be considered as a prototype at the time. We now have the experience to make a better, more reliable caliber and so the movement is a new and more updated movement compared to the first attempt. The first was calibre 1504 and this new one is 1504.2.”

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As with the previous Vagabondages, this model will be on application, with priority given to to collectors with matching serial numbers of the Vagabondages II and III in Gold.

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TECHNICAL CHARACTERISTICS

Collection:  Limited SERIES

Model:  VAGABONDAGE I 6N Gold Edition

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Movement
    Calibre 1504.2 in 18K rose Gold
    Manual winding
    21 jewels
Dimensions of the movement :
  * Overall dimensions : 29.30 x 28.20 mm
  * Casing-up dimensions : 27.30 x 27.30 mm
  * Overall height : 5.00 mm
  * Height of winding system : 2.50 mm
  * Diameter of stem thread : S0.90 mm
Balance :
    Balance with 16 screws
    Flat Anachron microflamed spring
    Mobile stud holder
    Nivatronic laser-welded to the collet
    Pinned GE stud
Frequency :   21.600 VPH, 3 Hz
Amplitude :
    12h dial up: 300°
    12h vertical: 270°
Principal characteristics :
    Straight line lever escapement 15 teeth
    Two-position crown
    Two barrels in parallel
Power reserve :    50 ± 2 hours
Indication :
    Indication of hours in a mobile window which position indicates the minutes
Decoration :
    High grade
    Partly circular-grained base plate
    Straight Geneva waves on the bridges
    Polished screw heads with chamfered slots
    Pegs with polished rounded end
    Steel components polished and bevelled
Case
    Flat Tortue® shape: 45.20 x 37.50 mm
    Height: 7.60 mm
Number of components :
    Movement: 168
    Cased on leather strap: 189
Bracelet
Back alligator strap

Limited Series :  68 pieces in 18K 6N Gold

 Price: on application

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Press release - 2022
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MONTRES JOURNE SA
Brigitte Bocquet-Makhzani - Communication
International PR & Events Manager
17, rue de l’Arquebuse – 1204 Geneva – Switzerland
Tel : +41 (0)22 322 09 09
Fax : +41 (0)22 322 09 19
e-mail: bmakhzani@fpjourne.com
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www.F.P.Journe.com 

F.P.Journe – FFC Blue Tantalum ONLY WATCH 2021

F.P.JOURNE x FRANCIS FORD COPPOLA – OCTA FFC Blue Tantalum ONLY WATCH 2021

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On an original idea by Francis Ford Coppola “Invenit” and “Fecit” by François-Paul Journe

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This year, F.P. Journe celebrates the 20th anniversary of the automatic Octa Calibre 1300 in all its forms.

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This latest opus is the ultimate version of the legendary model, with an automaton powered solely by the Octa movement’s mainspring. As one might expect, this was no easy task. 

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The minutes are driven by a rotating disk located at 12 o’clock, while the mobile fingers appear or disappear instantaneously, indicating the hours by their position. 

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The fingers were inspired by a mechanical hand created by Ambroise Paré (1509-1590), the father of modern surgery. 

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 “This watch was born in 2012 while having dinner at Francis Ford Coppola’s house in the Napa Valley. He asked me if it could be possible to tell time with a hand in a watch. I replied that the idea was interesting and required thinking about it. But how to display 12 hours with 5 fingers? It was not an easy matter and this complex challenge inspired and motivated me. Once I figured it out, Francis immediately sent the sketches for the fingers positions. After more than 2 years, I could finally focus on “Fecit”. After 7 years of development, I am proud to present theFFC prototype”.

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A unique Tantalum case and blue hand, in the same vein as other F.P.Journe Only Watch timepieces in years past.

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TECHNICAL CHARACTERISTICS

Collection:

Model:  FFC Blue

Ref.  FFC

Case
Tantalum, unique case exclusively developed for Only Watch.
Dimensions: Ø: 42 mm / Thickness: 10.70 mm.
Dial
Instantaneous digital hours indicated by an automaton blue hand,
unique piece exclusively developed for Only Watch.
Rotating minutes.
Mouvement
Calibre Automatic FFC 1300.3 in 18K rose Gold.
Number of components: Movement: 396
Unidirectional oscillating weight in 22K 5N Gold, engraved Ambroise Paré (1509-1590) & F.F.Coppola.
Functions & Complications: 2
Bracelet
Orange alligator strap

Limitation: Unique piece for Only Watch 2021
 

Prices    Estimated at CHF 300,000 - CHF 400,000

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www.OnlyWatch.com
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Press release - 2021
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--------------------------------------------
MONTRES JOURNE SA
Brigitte Bocquet-Makhzani - Communication
International PR & Events Manager
17, rue de l’Arquebuse – 1204 Geneva – Switzerland
Tel : +41 (0)22 322 09 09
Fax : +41 (0)22 322 09 19
e-mail: bmakhzani@fpjourne.com
--------------------------------------------------------------
www.F.P.Journe.com 

F.P.Journe – Tourbillon SOUVERAIN Gold BOUTIQUE Edition

F.P.Journe – Tourbillon SOUVERAIN Gold Back Dial BOUTIQUE 20th Anniversary Edition 2021

  THE TOURBILLON SOUVERAIN BOUTIQUE EDITION WITH BLACK DIAL ON 18K 6N GOLD CASE IS AVAILABLE ONLY IN THE F.P.JOURNE BOUTIQUES AND ESPACES AROUND THE WORLD.

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 A New Tourbillon Souverain to Celebrate the 20th Anniversary of the Tourbillon Souverain

The innovative and revolutionary horological creator François-Paul Journe has inspired a generation of contemporary watchmakers with the originality of his creations, his quest for precision, his timeless and immediately recognisable style, and his respect for horological ethics and traditions.

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Fascinated by the tourbillon since his youth, François-Paul Journe began to make his first watch when he was 20 - entirely by hand. It was a tourbillon pocket watch. In 1991, he created his first tourbillon wristwatch, selling the very small number of examples to a handful of knowledgeable collectors. In 1999, he launched the first Tourbillon Souverain with remontoir d’égalité in wristwatch form. It was sold by subscription and was much sought-after by collectors who rival with each other to get on the short list of 20 examples.

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The year 2003 saw the birth of the new generation of Tourbillon Souverain, to which François-Paul Journe added natural deadbeat second. Then, to make the watches even more desirable, he produced his haute horlogerie movements in 18k rose Gold, a first in the world of modern mechanical watchmaking.

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To celebrate the 20 th anniversary of this emblematic wristwatch, F.P.Journe has developed a tourbillon whose cage is vertical, rather than the traditional horizontal cage. “I designed this vertical tourbillon so that the tourbillon’s functions remain constant whether the watch lies flat or is placed on its side, and the amplitude is subsequently the same, whether with a deployant clasp lying on the side or with an ardillon buckle lying flat”.

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This vertical tourbillon with remontoir d’égalité and deadbeat second makes one revolution every 30 seconds. This is faster than the usual time of one minute, making the technical prowess even more visually astonishing. Surrounding the cage, a cone-shaped mirror-polished ring concentrates light, reflecting the tourbillon cage. 

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A second reflector was created on the movement side to provide light around the tourbillon cage. The 4N rose Gold bridges that form the dial are decorated with “Clous de Paris” guilloche with, for the first time, an enamel hour dial at 3 o’clock. The new Tourbillon Souverain also features an 80-hour power reserve at 12 o’clock and small seconds at 6 o’clock; the remontoir d’égalité is placed at 7 o’clock.

The constant-force device

“From ancient times, humankind has constantly attempted to measure time by dividing it into equal fractions and inventing the notion of isochronism! Only with the arrival of the first mechanical clocks did specialists begin to seek a means of equalising the force reaching the es-capement. The balance-spring did not yet exist and the so-called “foliot” balance had an irregular beat due to irregular transmission of force because of the imperfections of the gearing. At the time, clocks were equipped with just one hand, which completed a revolution once every 12 hours, since their degree of imprecision did not permit the measurement of minutes. After the invention of the mainspring, which would en-able the construction of table-clocks, 15 th century watchmaker Jost Bürgi had the idea of adding an extra gear representing an inde-pendent system wound in short spurts by the mainspring. The escapement thus ensured a more constant flow and allowed several months of autonomy: this was the first remontoire or constant-force device!

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Later, 17 th century Dutch watchmaker Christiaan Huygens invented the balance-spring and the pendulum. These innovations would give both clocks and watches an unprecedented degree of precision timekeeping: the minute hand became widespread and the constant-force device fell into oblivion for around a century. With the arrival of the 18 th century, known as the Age of Enlightenment, the high requirements relating to astronomical observations and calculations of longitude for maritime navigation called for ever higher levels of precision. As new technical solutions were found, the seconds hand became a common feature on watches of the period. In England, Thomas Mudge invented a con-stant-force device for the H.3 marine chronometer, while famous French watchmaker Robert Robin - Watchmaker to the King - also invented one for his precision regulators. Paradoxically, it was in the 19 th century that the constant-force device became widely used in the construction of clocks intended for buildings - not to remedy any flaws in the springs (since all these clocks ran by driving-weights), but to isolate the time mechanism from the outside hands. This was because the latter were exposed to strong winds and might disturb the mechanism.

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Nonetheless, making a constant-force device was a complex and tedious task, causing it to be almost entirely abandoned in the 20 th century, apart from a few rare exceptions: English watchmaker Georges Daniels used it in a tourbillon pocket-watch; his contemporary Anthony Randall built it into a table-clock based on the principle of John Harrison’s H.4; and I myself have incorporated it into three tourbillon pocket-watches, a so-called “sympathique” clock and more recently for the very first time in wristwatch form with the first model in the F.P.Journe - Invenit et Fecit - collection, the Tourbillon Souverain.

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What is fascinating in the principle of the constant-force device is that each watchmaker who has set out to build one has his own personal interpretation: only the basic idea remains the same.”

 The dead-beat second - the art of making time stand still…

Towards the late 17 th century, as clocks were becoming increasingly precise, watchmakers added a hand that enabled them to measure seconds. These “clocks”, which became “pendulum clocks” thanks to the invention of the pendulum balance by the Dutch watchmaker Huy-gens, were almost naturally equipped with a 1 metre-long balance with a period of 1 second. The dial was marked out into 60 subdivisions so that the hand could jump from one second to the next.

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When the first watches indicating seconds were made, some 18 th century watchmakers wanted to achieve the same visual effect as on clocks. To do so, they invented systems extending the period of the balances, the best-known being the “crown-wheel escapement with pendulum” or the huge balance by Mr. Pouzait. Nonetheless, these systems were rapidly abandoned, since they were detrimental to precision.

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Thus, without an additional system, the hand started to beat out the half-second, the most widespread frequency of the time. The extreme ease with which time could be read thank to a seconds-beating hand, which remained motionless and only moved when the second changed, gave 19 th century watchmakers some new ideas.

Three systems known as “deadbeat seconds” came into use:

The first consisted of a small additional gear train activated by a spring connected to the mainspring. Each second, the hand was released by the watch escapement. This so-called “independent deadbeat seconds” offered the advantage of not affecting the precision of the watch and could be disconnected at will by the user.

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The second comprised an additional gear-train running from the escape-wheel to an additional seconds wheel equipped with 60 teeth held by a spring. This extremely simple system was extremely prejudicial to precision.

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In the third, a so-called “single-beat escapement” waited for the balance to complete two oscillations in order for the escape-wheel to move forward every second. These escapements were extremely popular in watches produced in China, since according to Chinese philosophy, this corresponded to making time stand still. Time was no longer in control, since it was mastered by the wearer…

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Today, the Tourbillon Souverain is equipped with a “natural deadbeat seconds” device. The latter is mounted on one of the wheels of the con-stant-force device and cannot in any way affect the precision of the watch.  

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TECHNICAL CHARACTERISTICS

Collection: BOUTIQUE  SOUVERAIN

Model: Tourbillon SOUVERAINE BOUTIQUE Edition
This edition is available only in the F.P.Journe boutiques.

Mouvement
Calibre 1519
    18K rose Gold
    Manual winding
    29 turns of crown
Dimensions:
    Overall diameter : 34.60 mm
    Cased-up diameter : 34.20 mm
    Overall height : 10.00 mm
    Height of winding stem : 3.66 mm
    Diameter of stem thread : S1.20 mm
Balance:
    4 inertia weights
    Flat Anachron balance spring with Philips overcoil
    Pinned stud
    Free-sprung
    Spring pinned to collet
Frequency:    21'600 VPH, 3 Hz
Inertia:    11 mg/cm2
Angle of lift:    52°
Amplitude:
    0h dial up : > 260°
    24h vertical : > 260°
Main characteristics:
    Vertical Tourbillon with constant force and dead second
    2 position winding crown
    Manual winding in position 1
    Time adjustment by crown in position 2
Escapement:
    15 tooth escape wheel
    90° anchor fork
Indications:

•     Hours and minutes at 3h
•     Small second at 6h
•     Power reserve at 12h
•     Vertical Tourbillon at 9h

Power reserve:    80 ± 2 hours
Decoration:
    High quality
    Guilloche Clous de Paris on bridges
    Circular Geneva Waves on base plate
    Screw heads polished and bevelled
    Pegs with polished rounded ends
Case
    Platinum or 18K 6N Gold
    Diameter: 42.00 mm
    Height: 13.60 mm
Dial
Dial formed by the 18K rose Gold bridges engraved, painted, and decorated with “Clous de Paris” guilloché with a Grand Feu enamel hour dial at 3 o’clock in 18K white Gold
Number of components:
    Mouvement : 230
    Cased on leather strap : 260
    Jewels : 32
Strap
Black alligator with 18K red Gold or Platinum clasp

⭕️ Patents

• 1️⃣ European patent — EP 1760 544 A1

Power reserve indicator device

• 2️⃣ European patent — EP 1528 443 A1

Remontoir and deadbeat seconds

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Press release - 2021
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www.facebook.com - fpjourneofficial
--------------------------------------------
MONTRES JOURNE SA
Brigitte Bocquet-Makhzani - Communication
International PR & Events Manager
17, rue de l’Arquebuse – 1204 Geneva – Switzerland
Tel : +41 (0)22 322 09 09
Fax : +41 (0)22 322 09 19
e-mail: bmakhzani@fpjourne.com
--------------------------------------------------------------
www.F.P.Journe.com 

F.P.Journe – Young Talent Competition 2020

 F.P.Journe – Young Talent Competition 2020

 Supporting the most talented young watchmakers in the world
Norifumi Seki wins F.P.Journe Young Talent Competition 2020

Norifumi Seki, a Graduate from Hiko Mizuno College of Jewelry in Tokyo, has won the F.P.Journe Young Talent Competition 2020 for his Spherical moon and drum calendar pocket watch. 

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 Norifumi Seki, the winner of F.P.Journe Young Talent Competition 2020

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Since 2015, the Young Talent Competition allows discovering the next generation of most talented young watchmaking apprentices in the world, supports them in their route to independence by identifying their achievements and putting them under the spotlight.

F.P.Journe organizes the Young Talent Competition with the support of The Hour Glass, luxury watch retailer in the Asia Pacific region. Both Maisons aim to perpetuate and support the art of haute horology and cultivate the appreciation of extensive horological craftsmanship.

The selection criteria are based on technical achievement, the search for complexity in their realization, the quality of craftsmanship as well as their sense of design and aesthetics. Applicants must have independently designed and created a timepiece and/or technical construction. The 2020 Young Talent Competition winner receives a diploma and a CHF 20,000.- grant from The Hour Glass and F.P.Journe, which will allow him to purchase watchmaking tools or finance an horological project.

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The jury of the Young Talent Competition 2020 is composed of key personalities from the international horological scene: Philippe Dufour, Andreas Strehler, Giulio Papi, Marc Jenni, Michael Tay, Elizabeth Doerr and François-Paul Journe.

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The Spherical moon and drum calendar pocket watch created by Norifumi Seki features a multiple complications. First one is the large spherical moon-phase display. Made entirely of titanium, the moon phase is 20 mm in diameter and set via a recessed pusher in the case band. A third of the sphere is blue heated, while the other two thirds are coated in gold.

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Second complication is the vertical calendar display. Shown in two large windows, each containing two drums for the digits, the calendar is a simple one, with the month in the left window and date on the right; both can be set via the crown. Because the calendar display relies on drums, rather than discs, it is driven by gears perpendicular to the plane of the movement.

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The movement is a mix of parts made from scratch as well as components from tried-and-test calibres. The base plate, bridges, and mechanisms for the calendar and moon phase are made by Norifumi Seki. Most parts of going train, from mainspring to fourth wheel, are taken from the Valjoux 7750, long a favourite base movement for complications because of its robustness and reliable energy delivery. However, the escapement is from the Peseux 7040 because, the young watchmaker wanted to run the movement at 3Hz instead of 4Hz to make the balance wheel larger.

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He then produced the four-armed balance wheel and paired it with a hairspring from the 7750. As a result, the balance bridge still retains the Etachron regulator index of the 7750. The movement is coated in 18K yellow gold, and finished with perlage and Côtes de Genève. Both the balance bridge and escape wheel cock are hand engraved.

Norifumi also produced all of the external components of the watch. Though it appears to be engine turned, the dial was actually engraved on a lathe due to non-availability of a rose engine. But the dial colour was achieved the traditional way, having been silver plated using diluted sulphuric acid. The hands were also made from scratch with a combination of heat-blued steel and golden brass.

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TECHNICAL CHARACTERISTICS

Collection: CLASSIQUE

Case
18K yellow golden brass
Width: 4.7 cm
Height: 2.3 cm
Length: 6.3 cm
Total weight: 140 grams
Crown and bow also in 18K yellow golden brass

Movement
Coated in 18K yellow gold, with perlage and Côtes de Genève decorations, balance bridge and escape wheel cock hand engraved

Dial
Engraved guilloche silver plated
Moon: 20 mm diameter in titanium partly golden
Hands: heated blued steel and golden brass.

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Press release - 2020
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MONTRES JOURNE SA
Brigitte Bocquet-Makhzani - Communication
International PR & Events Manager
17, rue de l’Arquebuse – 1204 Geneva – Switzerland
Tel : +41 (0)22 322 09 09
Fax : +41 (0)22 322 09 19
e-mail: bmakhzani@fpjourne.com
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