Wednesday, August 24, 2016

Kees Engelbarts – Platinum Tsuba Watch Unique Piece



Kees Engelbarts – Platinum Tsuba Watch Unique Piece

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The dial of Kees Engelbarts' latest watch depicts a scene, inspired by a Tsuba with a Hawk and Sparrow, from Hamano Masanobu, circa 1836 (late EDO). A Tsuba is the hand guard mounted on a Japanese sword. These Tsuba eventually became elaborate pieces of art - far beyond their practical use.


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The watch has a 950-platinum case and an AS 690, 8-day power reserve, movement. The movement has been decorated with mokume gane of white-gold and silver in a star-like shape. The screws are hand-polished, beveled and heat-blued.

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Kees
has used a variety of different materials to make the dial. The hawk is made of red gold, the branch is made of mokume gane of pink gold/shakudo. The leafs are in green gold and the little sparrow is made of bronze. The smallest details are also in various materials, like the eye of the hawk that is in yellow gold with a silver center.
 
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The eye of the sparrow is also in yellow gold. The hawk's feet are in yellow-gold and the claws made of silver. 

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The base plate, on which the scene is mounted, is white-gold/silver mokume gane and has been treated with nitric acid. This acid will attack the silver and leave the white-gold unharmed and this accentuates the vertical shape structure and creates a relief. Finally, the hands are in heat-blued steel.

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All elements have been cut out by hand, adjusted and then soldered together. Once assembled the elements are engraved by hand in the low-relief technique that gives a 3d-effect when watching the scene from different angles. Some elements have been heated and /or treated chemically in order to change the colors giving the whole scene an antique atmosphere.

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It took Kees several months to make this watch.. Each step is delicate and extremely time-consuming. For additional and price info please contact him at: mail@kees.ch or visit www.kees.ch
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Technical specifications:

Movement 
     
Hand-wound AS 690
8 days power reserve
17 jewels
18'000 BPH
Pusher at 2 o'clock position for time-setting
Case             
Platinum 950, matte finish
49 mm x 16mm
Sapphire crystal both sides with double anti-reflection treatment
Protrusion at 5 o'clock position to accommodate the main-spring barrel
Strap            
Exterior black alligator leather
Interior black shark leather
Solid platinum 950 buckle
Weight:  Total 301 grams

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Contact Info
Email: mail@kees.ch
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www.Kees.ch

JAQUET DROZ – Grande Seconde SW Lady

















JAQUET DROZGrande Seconde SW Lady NEW

Grande Seconde SW Lady
the spirit of sports with a feminine touch.

Jaquet Droz is presenting its first feminine model of the Grande Seconde SW in 41 mm set with 40 diamonds. A timepiece of radiant modernity, where the thirst for competition meets the love of jewelry.

Since the beginning of Jaquet Droz, the figure 8 has held pride of place in the imagination of the brand known by its twin stars. A symbol of infinity, balance and achievement, its silhouette has adorned the Grande Seconde since the Enlightenment, while the watch’s two superimposed subdials shake up the aesthetics of watchmaking by celebrating the poetry of the most fleeting instants.

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Launched in 2008, the Grande Seconde SW is its athletic version, with a powerful and distinguished build that has made it one of the leading models of Jaquet Droz. This year, a new version is being unveiled. Sporty and feminine, imposing and precious, the Grande Seconde SW Lady is instantly recognizable. Its stainless steel case, 41 mm in diameter, is offered for the first time in a version set with diamonds.

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Following in the great tradition of mineral dials that made Jaquet Droz famous, a mother-of-pearl disc, as beautiful as it is delicate, forms the dial of this watch. Shimmering effects and the play of light interact with the sparkle of 40 diamonds set on the fluted bezel and with the reflections of the ring and plates in white gold. The case's finishes, in turn brushed and polished, add to the enchanting and captivating design of this model. Each element has been given special attention.

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The horns have been hollowed for greater lightness, a dynamic touch highlighted by the sporty spirit of the crown’s rubber cast, offering water-resistance to 5 bar (50 meters). Running across the traced Arabic and Roman numerals, the blued steel hands are partially coated in Super-LumiNova to shine in the dark, displaying the time with the exceptional reliability that is made possible by the silicon balance spring with which the movement is equipped, as this material is unaffected by magnetic fields or changes in temperature and pressure.

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A watch that is firmly contemporary and sporty, the Grande Seconde SW Lady is also a treasure of luxurious femininity. The alligator leather strap, directly incorporated into the case, is offered in elegant powdered violet. The movement, visible through sapphire crystal, captures the attention and makes it possible follow each motion of the hollowed out weight atop a sunray-polished Côtes de Genève motif.

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In addition to its twin stars, watch lovers will be able to recognize the secret signature of Jaquet Droz, a cloverleaf, subtly engraved on the movement. A thoroughly sporty and feminine spirit for a timepiece that marries elegance and an ever assertive luxury.

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Technical details

Model: Grande Seconde SW Lady 41mm

Reference: J029020270

Movement
Jaquet Droz 2663A.S,
Self-winding mechanical movement with ruthenium treatment,
double barrel, 18-carat white gold oscillating weight
Jeweling: 30 jewels
Power reserve: 68 hours
Frequency: 28,800 v.p.h.
Indications
Off-centered hours and minutes, large seconds subdial
Case
Stainless steel case set with 40 diamonds, total of 0.86 carat,
winding crown with black rubber cast
Diameter: 41 mm
Height: 10.89 mm
Individual serial number engraved on the case-back
Water resistance: 5 bar (50 meters)
Dial
White mother-of-pearl dial
Indexes in BG W9 Super-LumiNova
Applied 18-carat white gold ring and plates"
Hands: Hours, minutes and seconds in blued steel, BG W9 Super-LumiNova tips
Strap
Powdered violet strap
Buckle: Stainless steel folding clasp

Diamonds: IF to VVSI, Full Cut, D to G
Total carat weight: 40 diamonds, 0.86 carat

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MONTRES JAQUET DROZ SA
Allée du Tourbillon 2
CH-2300 La Chaux-de-Fonds 2

· press@jaquet-droz.com
tel +41 32 924 28 72 · fax +41 (0)32 924 28 82
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www.Jaquet-Droz.com

Monday, August 22, 2016

De Bethune – DB28 ‘Kind Of Blue’ Tourbillon


De BethuneDB28Kind Of Blue’ Tourbillon Titanium Limited Edition NEW

In honour of the colour blue, a fundamental element of its identity, De Bethune presents a monochromatic range of its iconic models, DB28 Tourbillon. Radical and magnetic, its colour is created by an artisanal and natural treatment of the metals.

Experimental blue

De Bethune has devoted considerable research into natural blue, because the brand considers this colour to be symbolically related to the concept of infinity and harmony.

At De Bethune, the colour blue is imbued with a broad and deep meaning. Evoking simultaneously water, the sky and space, the colour blue is above all envisaged as a luminous vibration by David Zanetta, Curator and Co-Counder, and Denis Flageollet, Master Watchmaker and Co-Founder. At De Bethune, each colour corresponds to a different type of energy derived from the colours of which it is composed.

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Blue is also associated with the notion of plenitude: within and beyond itself, and as far as this unfathomable infinity that is the universe, the source of life. So blue becomes a vector that subtly connects mankind with his physical and his spiritual environment. Seen in the context of artistic expression, the concept of blue approaches the magic of music, which is the inspiration for the name given to this creation.

Hand and heat

To create its own blue, De Bethune relied exclusively on a traditional technique, and all the parts in titanium and steel used in Kind of Blue were treated in this manner. It consists of heating the material to colour its surface through oxidation and to modify its physical properties in the process. Since its invention at the beginning of the 16th century, the technique has been used by watchmakers to give a new lustre to watch parts without altering their finishings. It also provides protection against corrosion.

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The synonym of watchmaking excellence, it requires a preliminary fine polishing, followed by a heating phase, normally by flame, to create a natural and long-lasting protective film, at the same time as it increases the hardness of the piece. Steel and iron were the only materials treated in this manner until De Bethune began its own experiments with titanium. Finalised in 2006, the technique is now applied to the purest form of this material, grade 5 titanium. Entirely done by hand, this extremely demanding treatment involves the development of a whole new repertory of steps, because titanium has proven to be a very arduous material to remodel. To give it its definitive lustre, the artisans at De Bethune have to demonstrate exceptional tenacity with each piece they work on.

Range of colours

The thermal treatment for Kind of Blue is applied not only to the elements of the case, but also to most of the parts of the movement. Thus, each part is studied individually, as the process has to be adapted according to its form and its mass. This preliminary phase is essential to ensure a uniform range of tones in the finished product.

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However, the human touch and the different typologies of the materials result in very subtle variations. These nuances are essential for De Bethune, because they create a visual resonance that affects the appearance of the finished piece. Actually, the definitive colour comes from the sum of all these variations and it is expressed by a kind of overall vibration.

DB28 Kind of Blue Tourbillon

The DB28T adopts a case in polished and blued titanium held by floating lugs for maximum comfort. Their springs indeed follow the shape of the wrist and its movements.

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Its mechanical calibre with hand winding is equipped with a high frequency, ultra fast tourbillon, signed De Bethune. The lightest in the world with its minuscule 0.20 grammes for 63 parts, it beats at one-tenth of a second and makes a complete rotation in 30 seconds for superior chronometry. Its silicon balance wheel, just as its escape wheel, is encircled with a white gold ring. Its flat terminal curve, placed on the same level as the balance-spring, compensates for off-centering and facilitates its fastening. A self-regulating twin barrel developed in-house ensures constant torque in the movement.  Entirely visible, the movement presents a curved delta motion work bridge in polished and blued titanium decorated with applied microsphere stars in white gold.

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Decorated by hand, the parts present various types of high watchmaking finishes, with rose-work grinding on the barrel ratchets and on the back, a plate with “De Bethune” concentric graining. The hours are marked by arrow pointers in pink gold, and as an added touch of luxury, indicated by skeleton hands also fashioned in pink gold.

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At once supreme and delicate, the Kind of Blue DB28T emits a singular radiance from the very material from which it is made. It truly advocates in favour of a colour that casts a magical spell.

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Technical Specifications

Collection:  DB28

Ref: DB28TBRBN/S 
5-piece limited edition

Movement 
Mechanical hand-wound movement – Calibre DB 2019
Jewelling: 35 jewels
Frequency: 36,000 vibrations per hour
Power reserve: 5 days
Functions:
Hours – minutes – 30-second tourbillon – power-reserve indication
Diameter 30 mm – 298 parts – hand-crafted finishing and decoration– polished steel 
Self-regulating twin barrel*
Silicon/white gold balance - balance-spring with flat terminal curve*
De Bethune silicon/titanium 36,000 vph 30-second tourbillon*
Silicon escape-wheel*

Case 
Mirror-polished Grade 5 titanium – round-shaped
Size: 42.60 mm
Thickness: 9.20 mm
Attachments: short or long floating lugs* in mirror-polished titanium
Crystal: sapphire crystal, 1800 Vickers hardness with double anti-reflective treatment
Crown: at 12 o’clock – mono-pusher button – setting in 2 positions
Back: open – sapphire crystal, 1800 Vickers hardness with double anti-reflective treatment –
calibre with hand-polished steel bridges 
Display 
Dial: Blued titanium – the architecture of the dial is constructed on different levels to maximise visibility. De Bethune 30” silicon/titanium tourbillon, 36,000 vph
Hands: in hand-polished steel
Strap 
Extra-supple Blue alligator leather strap
Folding buckle

Year: 2016
Limited annual production: only five will be issued in 2016
 
🔴Price 250'000 CHF💰

* Manufacture De Bethune innovations and registered patents

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Press release - Geneva 2016
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De Bethune Geneva Office 
25 Grand-Rue 1204 Geneva
Switzerland
Tel: +41 22 310 22 71
Fax: +41 22 310 33 40
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www.DeBethune.ch

Saturday, August 20, 2016

ORIS – Audi Sport Limited Edition III
















ORIS – Audi Sport Limited Edition III Titanium 44 Chronograph NEW

When the lights go out
Oris introduces the Audi Sport III Limited Edition

The latest collaboration between Oris and Audi Sport features another intriguing complication

Oris is very proud to announce the Oris Audi Sport Limited Edition III, the third watch in a series created to celebrate the partnership between the Swiss watch company and the iconic endurance racing team. Like the two watches that preceded it, the new watch features an innovative Oris-developed complication – a vertical countdown.

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This standout feature appears on a subdial at 9 o’clock. At the 12 o’clock position there’s a vertical aperture that fills with red every 15 seconds over a five-second period before returning to black again, just like the gantry lights on a race start line.

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In keeping with Oris’s philosophy, this engineering behind this mysterious complication is reassuringly simple. Under the subdial at 9 o’clock is a disc decorated with four red ‘staircases’. This disc makes a full rotation once every 60 seconds so that one of these staircases passes through the aperture on 0, 15, 30 and 45 seconds. The aperture has five squares, which fill at a rate of one square per second, until on five seconds the aperture is entirely filled. Then the aperture returns to black – as if to signify the start of a race – and the process starts again.

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But that’s not the subdial’s only secret. Oris’s engineers wanted the watch to indicate running seconds, too. That comes in the form of a red square that makes a full tour of a channel milled into the outer edge of the subdial. Again, the system behind this is ingeniously simple. The same disc under the dial has a single red line that runs to its outer edge. The tip of this line reaches the channel and is constantly visible while the watch is running.

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These Oris-developed features are wrapped in a 44mm black DLC-coated titanium case. Oris’s designers wanted a rigid but lightweight case to mirror the high-performance chassis of Audi Sport’s R18 race car, qualities they found in titanium. The dial design is reminiscent of dashboard instruments and the chronograph hour and minute counters bring back memories of classic speedometers and rev counters.

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The Audi Sport Limited Edition III is based on the Oris Artix GT, and shares the revamped sport watch collection’s new bi-rotating bezel design. While it retains the rubber ‘good grip’ (developed by Oris for the original Artix GT) that sits around the outside of the bezel and aids quick and accurate adjustments, it now has a matt black scratch-resistant ceramic insert with polished numerals. The new design is easier to read off at a glance than in previous models. The Audi Sport logo completes the look.

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The Oris Audi Sport Limited Edition III’s titanium case back is engraved with a silhouette of the Audi Sport R18 race car and the limited edition number

The watch is fitted with a perforated black rubber racing strap that has a black DLC-coated titanium folding clasp to match the case. The case back is engraved with a silhouette of Audi Sport’s R18 race car and the limited edition number.

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The Oris Audi Sport Limited Edition III is presented in a special Alcantara-like box

The new Oris Audi Sport Limited Edition III is a fitting tribute to the innovation and pioneering spirit of the Audi Sport team and demonstrates Oris’s creative approach to watchmaking. It will be available from August 2016 and only 500 will be made, each priced CHF 3,950.

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Product Features

Model: Oris - Audi Sport Limited Edition III 500 pieces
Reference No. 01 774 7661 7784 RS Ø 44.00mm


Movement
Automatic mechanical movement  
Oris Cal. 744 (based on Sellita  SW500)
Case fitting diameter: 30.00 mm  - 13 ¼ ’’’
Height: 7.90 mm
Frequency: 28’800 A/h (4 Hz)
Running time: 48 heures
Number of jewels: 25
Angle lift of balance: 50°
 function and date
Functions 
Centre hands for hours, minutes and seconds,
With Chronograph function, date at 6 o’clock and vertical aperture countdown function at 9 o’clock
Case
Multi-piece titanium case, screw-in stainless steel crown and pushers, all with black DLC coating.
Bi-rotating black ceramic bezel with minute scale and rubber coated ‘good grip’ insert on the outside edge.
Black DLC-coated titanium case back engraved with silhouette of Audi Sport R18 race car and limited edition numberWater resistance to 10 bar/100m
Crystal
Sapphire crystal domed on both sides with anti-reflective coating inside
Dial
Two piece matt black dial. Dial ring with tachymeter scale directly assembled to the case
Applied indices filled with black Super-LumiNova®.
Black hour and minute hands filled with Super-LumiNova®.
Red central stop seconds hand, polished nickel counter hands and special Oris-developed small seconds disc
Strap/Bracelet 
Black perforated rubber strap with black DLC-coated titanium folding clasp
Extras
Special luxury wooden presentation Alcantara-like box, certificate, limited to 500 

Edition: Limited edition 500 pieces

Price:
Swiss Retail Price: CHF 3,950.00

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Press Release
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