Friday, July 25, 2014

CERTINA – Gent Quartz DS Eagle Precidrive
















CERTINA – Gent Quartz DS Eagle NEW

Extreme protection for exceptional times
The DS Eagle is a timepiece for those with a taste for the unique and unusual. It brings together extreme-sport design inspiration and outstanding finish to a highly accurate timepiece with a Swiss-Made ETA Precidrive quartz movement. Rubber detailing on the bezel and gorgeous brushed/polished finishing strike up a rugged, virile design around a stainless-steel case with PVD rose-gold and black.

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The DS Eagle leaves no one unimpressed. Its ETA Precidrive quartz movement ensures full precision under the most demanding circumstances and its great appearance draws glances wherever it goes, despite an exceptional quality/price ratio.

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The large (44mm) PVD rose-gold brushed/polished case opens onto a broad dial with a sporty, technical feel. Behind a sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating on both faces, a central textured area complements the strong geometrics of the case. Large skeletonised HM hands treated with Superluminova, a contrasting red second hand and a date window at the six o’clock position report time with great legibility.

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Over the PVD black stainless-steel bezel, an innovative black moulded-rubber overlay with white numerals reinforces the dynamic nature of the DS Eagle, along with a PVD black stainless-steel strip bearing the CERTINA name and fastened to the left side of the case with two PVD black screws.

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Balancing this sturdy design, are two crown protection elements also in PVD black steel and held by similar screws, on either side of the screw-in crown, trimmed with a sporty red line. The watch is water-resistant up to a pressure of 20 bar (200 m) and is equipped with a screw-on case back that shows an embossed CERTINA turtle motif, past and present symbol of water-resistance, robustness and long life for the brand.

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The DS Eagle is equipped with the DS Concept, as evidenced by the monogrammed letters “DS” on the crown tip. The timepiece wears a handsome textured rubber strap held in place with PVD black screws, and a large pin-clasp buckle. Other versions include a two-tone (stainless steel/PVD black) model with a black rubber strap, as well as an all-black version with a black rubber strap, a black dial and black and Superluminova white indices.


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Press Release
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TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS

References:

C023.710.37.051.00 (Steel/PVD rose-gold, rubber strap)
C023.710.27.051.00 (Steel/PVD black, rubber strap)
C023.710.17.051.00 (All PVD black, rubber strap) 
Movement:
ETA F07.411 , Precidrive, Quarz, Swiss Made
Hours, minutes, central seconds, date
Case:
316L brushed/polished stainless steel with
PVD rose-gold coating and PVD black elements,
Diameter 44 mm
PVD black steel bezel, moulded-rubber black overlay with white numerals
Screw-on case-back with embossed Certina turtle emblem
Dial:
Black, with textured central area
Skeletonised HM hands, red second hand, large indices
Date window at six o’clock position
Water resistance:
Water resistant up to a pressure of 20 bar (200 m)
Crystal:
Sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating on both faces
Crown:
Protected, screw-in, letters “DS” (Double Security) on tip
Watch strap:
Contoured and textured black rubber,
fastened to case with black PVD-coated screws,
large pin-clasp buckle
Specificity:
DS (Double Security)

Retail price:       
C023.710.37.051.00     Switzerland CHF 960.-*
UK £ 735.- / IRL € 810.-*
C023.710.27.051.00     Switzerland CHF 870.-*
UK £ 670.- / IRL € 740.-*
C023.710.17.051.00     Switzerland CHF 930.-*
UK £ 710.- / IRL € 785.-*   
                         
 *Recommended retail price

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Thursday, July 24, 2014

GIRARD-PERREGAUX – Lady 1966





GIRARD-PERREGAUX – Lady 1966 NEW


The Girard-Perregaux 1966 Lady Collection welcomes a new addition that marks a tone of discreet elegance. Its cognac-colored dial features a guilloché decoration making up a pattern that call to mind the petals of a flower.

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Glittering with precious stones, "Lady 1966" was conceived as a delicate poem of a watch. Veering into intense bronze and cognac tones, delicate in its dimensions and the slimness of its features, it expresses a discreet elegance that is driven by its self-winding mechanical movement manufactured by the Maison.

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The bezel is lit up by 80 diamonds following one upon the other to the ends of each lug. This dazzling setting thus bathes in light the classic, perfectly proportioned shape of the case crafted out of pink gold.
The dial has a guilloché pattern and a shimmering bronze-colored face. It shines with its arrays branching out from the center like a corolla radiating outward. Each consists of a succession of delicate arabesques, like so many petals with their sparkling reflections. Two elegant leaf-shaped hands enhance the dial, while the hours are emphasized by hour markers set with diamonds, except for 6 and 12 o'clock, which are marked by delicately polished Roman numerals.

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This elegance is matched by the watch's mechanical heart, with its dimensions suited to the thinness of the case. The Girard-Perregaux 1966 Lady is in fact fitted with a self-winding mechanical movement GP03200 entirely developed, made and assembled in the workshops of the Manufacture. Decorated in traditional style, it offers the hours and minutes functions and has a 42-hour power reserve.







































To complete its attire, "Lady 1966" is dressed in a chocolate-colored glazed alligator strap with a pink gold pin buckle.

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Technical Specifications

 Reference: 49528D52B871-CKBA  Lady 1966 Pink Gold Strap

Case: Pink Gold 
Dimensions: 
    Diameter : 30.00 mm
    Height : 8.90 mm
Crystal: Anti-reflective sapphire
Dial: Bronze-coloured
Case-back: Sapphire crystal
Water resistance: 30 meters (3 ATM)
Setting
Case: 80 brilliant-cut diamonds, ~ 0,73 ct
Dial: 10 brilliant-cut diamonds
Calibre:
Girard-Perregaux movement GP03200-0005
Mechanical, self-winding movement
Caliber: 10 1/2 ’’’
 Diameter: 23,30 mm
Frequency: 28,800 vib/h - (4 hz)
Power reserve: min. 42 hours
Jewels: 26
Functions: 
Нour, minute
Сhronograph, date, world time with day/night indicator 
Black alligator strap
Strap:
Brown alligator coated leather strap
Pink gold pin buckle
   
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ARNOLD & SON – TE8 Métiers d’Art II

















ARNOLD & SONTE8 Métiers d’Art II Limited Edition NEW


Timeless elegance, handcraft and innovative technology:
Arnold & Son’s TE8 Métiers d’Art II

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True to its English watchmaking and handcraft heritage, Arnold & Son unveils the TE8 Métiers d’Art II, limited to only eight exclusive timepieces. Inspired by the pocket watches made during the earlier part of John Arnold’s life for King George III and the royal court, the latest addition to the Arnold & Son Royal Collection is an eloquent expression of elegance and sophistication in the inimitable English style and demonstrates the brand’s traditional prowess in the classical decorative arts.

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George III of the United Kingdom

The tourbillon movement, one of the most elegant complications in the world of horology, has played a crucial role in Arnold & Son’s history. An exceptional watchmaker, John Arnold was an active participant in one of the most extraordinary partnerships in the world of innovative horology. Indeed, both he and A.L. Breguet worked closely, sharing both their knowledge and passion. Evidence of their partnership is A.L. Breguet’s first ever tourbillon mounted in John Arnold’s No. 11 movement, a watch that can be found today in London’s British Museum.

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John Arnold and A.-L. Breguet, silver cased chronometer with tourbillon and spring-detent escapement,
London, England, 1774 and Paris, France, 1808
© The Trustees of the British Museum

What sets Arnold & Son’s Tourbillon TE8 esthetically and technically apart is its unique “English” design: the barrel bridge has a ¾ wave-shape, the tourbillon and motion-work bridges are triangular, and even the wheels are shaped with a distinctive three-spoke design. This same design cue can also be found on the tourbillon cage and the barrel bridge as well.

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A&S8000
Exclusive Arnold & Son tourbillon movement A&S8000, hand-wound, hand-engraved barrel bridge
and back of the main plate
© Arnold & Son

When compared to more conventional tourbillons found today, the TE8 model is said to be “inverted”, that is to say most technical elements and visually interesting features are shown on the dial side, when those would normally be hidden on the reverse of the dial. Other typically English technical idiosyncrasies will seduce even the most demanding watch connoisseurs.

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Take, for instance, the symmetrical layout of the movement; to achieve such a feat requires overcoming a number of technical challenges. Thus the barrel spring and the tourbillon cage are centered along the watch’s longitudinal axis. When examining the winding system and the gear train, one notes the traditional construction, which uses wheels with long and narrow spokes known as wolf’s teeth, used to improve the smoothness of the overall movement.

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Each single TE8 Métiers d’Art II is hand-engraved by Arnold & Son’s own master engraver, who went as far as to create a new engraving pattern solely for this special edition. This new pattern is composed of complex geometrical elements arising from the center of the movement. The engraving of this masterpiece is particularly painstaking as the motif is conceived as a bas-relief in order to increase the three-dimensional effect. The engraver must pay great attention not to slip off and constantly sharpen his tools, as their wear and tear is very high.

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A&S8000
© Arnold & Son

Hand-engraving is a traditional art form that involves the use of hardened steel tools called burins in combination with other special tools. These create cuts, lines and texturing that build up entire images or, as in the case of the TE8 Métiers d’Art II, a beautiful hand-engraved pattern on the barrel bridge and on the back of the main plate, bringing a breathtaking richness of detail to an already exceptional tourbillon timepiece.

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It goes without saying that every finishing touch on this striking piece has been done by hand by Arnold & Son’s master watchmakers, thus fulfilling the highest standards of superlative Haute Horlogerie finish and bringing more brilliance and depth to each element of the movement.
This unique timepiece measures 44 mm in diameter in its classically elegant 18-carat red gold case. It will be produced in a limited edition of only 8 timepieces, with each case individually hand-numbered by our master engraver.

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Technical Characteristics

References: 1SJAR.B04A.C113A 18-carat Red Gold Case

Calibre:                                  
A&S8000
Exclusive Arnold & Son mechanical movement tourbillon movement,
Hand-wound, 19 jewels, diameter 32.6 mm, thickness 6.25 mm,
Power reserve 80 h, 21,600 vibrations/h
Functions:
hours, minutes, tourbillon
Movement decoration:
hand-engraved movement, rhodium treated bridges and NAC grey treated main
plate with superlative Haute Horlogerie finishing: hand-chamfered bridges with
polished edges, fine circular graining, circular satin-finished wheels with hand-
chamfered and polished edges, screwed gold chatons, mirror-polished tourbillon
cage and bridge, screws with bevelled and mirror-polished heads
Dial:  
Black open dial
Case:   
18-carat red gold, diameter 44 mm
Cambered sapphire with anti-reflective coating on both sides
Case back see-through sapphire
Water-resistant to 30 m
 Strap:
Hand-stitched black or brown alligator leather
Water resistance:
30 Meters
Limited edition: 8 timepieces

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Marketing & Sales Boulevard des Eplatures 38 CH – 2300 La Chaux-de-Fonds Switzerland info@arnoldandson.com
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 www.ArnoldandSon.com - Media
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 www.Arnold&Son.com

Wednesday, July 23, 2014

YESLAM – AVIATOR I Black TITANIUM Dual Time
















YESLAMAviator I Black TITANIUM Dual Time NEW


 TRUE AIRSPEED CALCULATOR
AUTOMATIC DUAL TIME, TITANIUM & STAINLESS STEEL - SWISS MADE

With its PVD turbine dial, the new model «Aviator Black » takes off in this series of watches designed specifically for pilots and aviation enthusiasts. This watch has a flight computer, useful for calculatingthe actual speed (TAS = True Airspeed) In-flight and flight preparation. For an unlimited combinations of flight levels and indicated speed, calculation is made by a simple rotation of the bezel. Because of its simplicity, it is a reliable and safe addition thatalso allows any theoretical projection. Based on the «International Standard Atmosphere model», this watch will determine with satisfactory accuracy the true airspeed for each combination of indicated airspeed and flight level. Any inaccuracies detected will be due to the reduction of the system to the size of the watch. This exclusive timepiece offers comfort, accuracy and fascination. The skeletondial, bezel and crown are covered with black PVD which makes it resistance to wear and scratches. This combination of High Quality of Watchmaking and aviation is protected in a case with a unique design in titanium and steel, suitable for “Aviator ”collection.

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The ONE and ONLY !
A watch that calculates TAS

In history, man has always been fascinated with two virtually unreachable concepts, time and free
flight. The watch and an airplane are as close as we can get to either.
Many watch manufacturers have tried to combinethe two, with various results. Some have watchesthat look like airplane instruments, others have pictures of an airplane, but never has one been able to invent a watch for this useful function.
This watch has an integrated flight computer) that can be used for in flight calculations as well as flight planning calculations of the True airspeed, TAS for a virtually unlimited) amount of combinations of flight levels and indicated airspeed. With just one turn of the bezel.
How did this come about?
The designer is an experienced pilot himself. He holds multiple type ratings on Learjet and Cessna business jets, among others. He has accumulated over 3500 hours of flight time experience, almost
all on jets.
Never stopping to invent and design beautiful things, this time he wanted to combine the beautiful with the useful.

After many months of experimenting and many trials, even a test flight wasn’t shunned, he invented something truly remarkable:

The AVIATOR a watch that will give True airspeed for any combination of flight level (altitude) and Indicated airspeed)

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With the up rise and integration of electronic and satellite navigation, the calculation of True airspeed
became less and less necessary, but every pilot has and needs a watch.
One thing will never change, we will always be flying through air and there for we will always have an Indicated airspeed and a True airspeed. One equally important as and useless without the other!
It is this gap between practice and theory that made for this intriguing invention.

Based on the ICAO model of the International Standard Atmosphere (ISA), this watch will approximate the True airspeed for every combination of Indicated airspeed and flight level possible), within 5 knots. This margin is due to physical limitations of the size of the watch and human error.
Not only is its use made for the aviation industry, its appearance has everything to do with aviation as well. From the obvious, the beautifully engraved fan blades in the dial and the overall look simulating a jet engine, to the less obvious, the use of the materials.
 
) The term “flight computer” is used solemnly to indicate the computing possibilities of this watch and shall in no means be interpreted as an actual flight computer.
) possibilities limited by; flight levels between 18’000 and 46’000 feet and IAS between 180 and 370

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Technical specifications

Reference:
Ref: 253319701010 Black

Modle: Aviator 1
Name: Aviator Black
Mouvement:
ETA 2892 with TT651 Module
Frequency: 4Hz
Power reserve: 42H
Indications:
• Automatic + 2nd time zone and big date
• Hour, minute and second
• Big date
• True Airspeed Calculator
Case:
• 44mm Titanium and stainless steel
• Black PVD treatment on the ring
• True Airspeed Calculator
Dial:
• Black PVD
• Squeleton dial
• Estamped dial technic
Crystal: Sapphire with anti reflective-treatment on both sides
Water-resistance: 50m (5ATM)
Strap:
• Special Aviator design
• 100% Cowhide leather
• Stainless steel folding claps

Versions: Aviator 1 BlackFlash

Ref: 2505634500117 Yellow 
Ref: 2505634500118 Red
Ref: 2505634500119 Blue
Ref: 2505634500120 Orange
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Tuesday, July 22, 2014

RICHARD MILLE – RM 56-02 SAPHIR Tourbillon
















RICHARD MILLERM 056-02 SAPHIR Tourbillon Limited Edition NEW

At Richard Mille, the fact that a tremendous challenge has been won is never a valid reason to stand still and be complacent. The introduction of the RM 056 Sapphire Tourbillon Split Seconds Chronograph three years ago was a watchmaking milestone of technical achievement; never before had such a complex case design for such an intricate movement been manufactured in pure sapphire. This debut was followed by the RM 56-01, which put the stakes even higher with a baseplate, bridges and third wheel additionally created from sapphire. Today, a cutting-edge expression of horological transparency created expressly for the Watches & Wonders event in Hong Kong is presented with the magnificent RM 56-02 Sapphire Tourbillon and its new movement, taking cues from the mechanical architecture of the RM 27-01 Rafael Nadal and its cable suspended movement. By incorporating this cabled movement design within a world of transparent sapphire, an ultimate expression of weightlessness and transparency is evoked within the world of extreme horology.

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In this fashion the baseplate of the RM 56-02, created from grade 5 titanium, is entirely suspended within the sapphire watchcase by specially developed single braided cable of only 0.35mm thickness, woven within a system of 4 pulleys on posts at the movement’s corners and another 6 pulleys placed along the movement’s periphery. The tension of the cable is perfectly controlled by a miniature ratchet at 9 o’clock. This entire cable unit is attached to a separate indicator located below 12 o’clock allowing an easy visual inspection of the cable tension, to ensure that it is always operating within the designated norms.

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Other parts of the movement have also been optimized for transparency thanks to the experience gained with the aforementioned versions; in this case Richard Mille’s engineers have added to the previous use of sapphire movement parts a new design of winding barrel bridge, tourbillon and center bridges in sapphire. This fluently executed technical challenge is a crowning achievement of the sapphire family of timepieces within the high scaled variety of creativity to be found within the Richard Mille collection as an entity.

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Sapphire, created from subjecting aluminum oxide crystals (Al2O3) to high pressure and temperature environments, is transparent due to the purity of its composition and has a hardness of 1800 Vickers (9 Moh’s) making it virtually scratch resistant by materials other than diamond. The tripartite case of the RM 56-02 is milled and ground from blocks of solid sapphire by the prestigious and highly specialized experts Stettler in Lyss, Switzerland, who had the difficult task of creating these movement parts and the unique, wrist hugging, ergonomically curving tripartite Richard Mille case. These engineering and technical challenges are self evident when we examine the reality of creating something inimitable like the RM 56-02: 40 days, 24/7 of continuous machining are required in order to produce one case followed by 400 hours of machining and finishing for the different movement bridges.

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The case of the RM 56-02, with anti-glare protection on both front and back bezels, is waterproof to 30 meters thanks to the utilization of two transparent nitrile O-rings assembled with 24 spline screws in grade 5 titanium. The partially translucent strap created from Aerospace Nano® by Biwi SA, exclusively for Richard Mille, provides a silky and almost organic responsiveness to the skin that perfectly complements the exquisite ergonomic perfection of the RM 56-02 on the wrist.

The RM 56-02 will be released in a limited edition of 10 examples worldwide.


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Technical specifications

Model: RM 056-02 Tourbillon Split-Seconds Sapphire Chronograph
Limited Edition10 pieces

Movement:
Calibre:  Richard Mille RM056-02
Movement Type:   Manual
Functions:   
Central Hours and Minutes:
• Off-Centred Sweeping Seconds
• Tourbillon
• Split-Seconds Chronograph
• Power Reserve Indicator
• Sectorial Torque Indicator
• Mode Display (Winding, Neutral or Hour Setting)
Case:
Shape:        Tonneau
Material:     Sapphire
Diameter:   50.50 x 42.70 mm
Тhickness:  19.25 mm
Case Back: Transparent
Dial:    Skeletonized
Bezel:    Sapphire
Water Resistance:  3 ATM or 30 meters
Bracelet:   White Rubber

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Monday, July 21, 2014

Ulysse Nardin – Jazz Minute Repeater














Ulysse NardinExceptional Jazz Minute Repeater Limited Edition NEW

Uniting traditional watch making with the fine art of hand-engraved Jaquemarts is “Jazz,” the new Minute Repeater by Ulysse Nardin. A limited edition of 18 pieces in platinum, Jazz delivers a vivid design performance of this genre’s unmatched dynamism.

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 “It’s all music,” once described the legendary Duke Ellington about Jazz. And so it is, spanning more than a rhythmic century in existence with many names along the way, from ragtime to swing, bebop to Dixieland, blues to ska. Brought to the stage by African Americans in the early 1900s, fusing African-based music with European harmony and form elements, Jazz is a vivacious and complex type of music that is not clearly defined, and certainly not constrained. It beats strong across continents and cultures with versatility and change, connecting with its listeners’ for a truly visceral experience.

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Demonstrating its spirited essence is the workmanship of the Jaquemarts, or animated figures that move in sync with the activated minute repeater. An art form that is consistently refined, hand-engraved Jaquemarts remain a rarity in watch making today. In fact, Ulysse Nardin is among the rare manufacture in the world to incorporate Jaquemarts on the dial of its minute repeaters.
For the Jazz Minute Repeater, the artist applied 18-carat gold “musicians” to a genuine black onyx dial. From their performance space, they play with enthusiasm to their audience. When the minute repeater lever is activated, the hours, quarters and minutes, or a combination of these units, chime, and the band begins its show, playing along with the time.

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As much a chiming instrument as it is a timekeeper, the minute repeater is universally considered one of the most difficult watches to create. Ulysse Nardin was one of the first haute horology brands to fuel its rebirth. A labor of love and remarkable skill, the real challenge in the creation of the minute repeater lies in the ability to harness and project superior sound quality. Despite modern technology, the song of a repeater – or the melodic magic within – is dependent on the human ear and must be individually tuned, and often re-cased, by a master watch maker.
For the connoisseur, a minute repeater is a dream come true, for time is not only seen, but it is also heard.

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Pairing classic and niche elements in watch making with the aesthetic interpretation of an iconic music form, the new Jazz Minute Repeater by Ulysse Nardin is a symbol of excellence and originality in perfect harmony.

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Technical specifications

Model: Jazz Minute Repeater

Reference: 749-88   Limited Edition18 pieces

Movement   Manual winding movement Caliber UN-74
Power-Reserve   Approx. 36 h
Winding   Manual winding
Functions   Jaquemarts Minute Repeater. Chiming hours, quarters and m inutes
   Two chimes
Jewels   32 jewels
Case-back   Sapphire crystal fixed with screws
Diameter    42mm
Case    Platinum 950 case
Dial    Black onyx dial, with animated musicians in 18-carat gold
Crown    Water-resistant
Water-resistant    30 meters
Strap    Alligator strap, with folding buckle

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Sunday, July 20, 2014

F.P.Journe – Octa Sport Titanium


F.P.JourneLINESPORT OCTA Sport Titanium NEW


F.P. Journe strengthens its “lineSport” and launches the Octa model with automatic winding in a Titanium version, with movement in Aluminium. An exclusive new watch of an astounding lightness, thought and conceived specifically for a proficient sportive activity.

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This collection has been inspired by an important collector, aficionado of F.P. Journe watches, who committed himself in numerous marathon and triathlon competitions and wished to have an ultra light sports watch, coupled with a movement of authentic high horology.

F.P. Journe undertook long researches to find an ultra light and resistant material to receive his exceptional calibres; while maintaining the standards of high horology that inhabit his everyday life. The Octa Automatique Réserve presents the new movement entirely made of Aluminium reserved exclusively for the “lineSport”. With an extreme lightness in absolute comfort, the watch in its totality only weighs around 60 grams (on rubber bracelet).
The new Octa Sport Titanium is also proposed with a rubber strap and both versions are available from all F.P.Journe Boutiques and points of sale.

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Rubber inserts are fixed with an outstanding process to the tips of each link of the Aluminium bracelet, the sides of the case and the Titanium crown in order to efficiently protect the watch from any shocks, just like the bumper of an ancient automobile. The crown and the folding clasp, both in Titanium and engraved with the F.P. Journe signature, are covered with a rubbercoating. In addition, the folding clasp offers an adjustment system of a half link size (4mm approx.).

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The new Octa Sport Titanium is also proposed with a rubber strap and both versions are available from all F.P.Journe Boutiques and points of sale.


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The lineSport is conceived specifically for a sportive lifestyle, coupled with an automatic movement of authentic high horology. The Octa Sport in Titanium retain the properties of the Octa calibers FPJ 1300-3: five days power reserve, central hour and minutes, small second at 6h, power reserve at 10h30, day/night indication at 9h, and a large date at 1h.

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Technical Specifications

Model: Octa Sport Titanium

Saturday, July 19, 2014

Jaeger-LeCoultre – Master Grande Tradition Grande Complication


Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Grande Tradition Grande Complication Limited Edition 2014

Jaeger-LeCoultre instills the Grand Complication with the radiance it deserves.

With the new Grande Complication watch in the Haute Joaillerie line, Jaeger-LeCoultre presents an unprecedented blend of design, technical construction, watchmaking art and exquisite craftsmanship, striking a fine balance that provides a spectacular demonstration of the Manufacture's mastery and style. The watch incorporates three complications: a minute repeater, a flying tourbillon and a zodiacal calendar. Each is regarded as extremely complicated in its own right and all of them are built according to the latest watchmaking standards, bound together by the romantic soul conferred on them by true artists working together at Manufacture Jaeger-LeCoultre. This Master Grande Tradition Grande Complication will be produced in an 8-piece white gold limited edition, honouring the exclusivity of the movement and the splendour of its gem-setting.

The essence of the watch lies in its interpretation of astronomical timekeeping for the wrist. And there could be no driving force more suited to this task than the pulsing heart of a flying tourbillon orbiting the dial, depicting a sky-chart of the northern hemisphere. A sun performs a full revolution in 24 hours around the rim of this exceptional creation, thereby displaying a 24-hour indication, zodiac signs, as well as the days and months appearing on a circular scale surrounding the dial. Its precision is based on advanced technology, with a flying tourbillon setting the pace within an ultra-light titanium cage.

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Additionally, the watch incorporates a minute repeater in which the sound is generated by twocrystal gongs directly fixed to the sapphire crystal. Equipped with ‘trébuchet,the hamme Grande Complication watch offers a sound of unprecedented clarity and fullness, at a simplepush of the dedicated slide.

Its classically shaped white gold case, along with the decoration of the movement parts inkeeping with the finest horological traditions, testify to the prodigious sum of techniques andknowledge acquired by the Manufacture in the field of Haute Horlogerie throughout its 181years of existence. The gem-setting motif conceived by designers accentuates the distinctivearchitecture of the Master Grande Tradition case. The crown is meticulously set with baguettecutdiamonds, while two rows of baguette-cut diamonds extend to the right and left of thecrown to adorn the convex-shaped side of the case, and descend to the lugs.

A sky chart and a zodiacal calendar

A day is basically defined as one rotation of the earth around its own axis. Depending on which point of reference is used, astronomy distinguishes between a solar day and a sidereal day. The former is measured with the sun as reference, while the latter uses other, more distant fixed stars.

Since the earth orbits around the sun as well as upon its own axis, the solar day is slightly longer than the sidereal day, differing by about one degree, meaning almost four minutes. To underline these celestial ambitions that make the watch a perfect instrument for astronomical observations, the sky disc performs a rotation in 23 hours and 56 minutes, meaning one sidereal day. Moreover, a zodiac calendar is placed around the rim of the dial together with a month indication to further depict the position of the constellations at any given time of the year, with a perpetual calendar regulating the timing system.
 

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The technical nature of the dial is heightened by subtle aesthetic touches that lend it an air of nobility and distinction. The dark blue aventurine sky disc illuminated with diamond stars is surrounded by two crescents of baguette-cut sapphires in lighter shades of blue. The blue becomes even lighter on the hand-guilloché lacquered disc bearing the indications of the month and zodiac signs. These subtly graded shades create a depth effect on the multi-layered watch dial testifying to the masterful skills of the in-house designers and artisans. The diamond hour-markers echo the stars, while the radiant bezel creates a splendidly luminous glow for this Grande Complication.


The tourbillon and the silicon escapement parts

Contrary to the traditional construction based on both lower and upper bridges, a flying tourbillon is held only on the movement side and thus features a single cantilevered pivot. The entire mechanism consists of 73 parts and measures 12.42 millimetres in diameter and 3.85 in height. Built of lightweight titanium, the carriage is reduced to its bare functional essence in order to provide an unobstructed view at the escapement system. It is fitted on a lubricant-free ceramic ball bearing system. The 10-millimeter monometallic balance wheel with its regulation screws and its balance spring with Breguet overcoil has an inertia of 11.5 mg cm2 and beats at a high 4 Hz frequency.

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The silicon parts of the escapement, such as the lever with its integrated pallets and the escape wheel, are thus clearly visible. This escape wheel is a completely new design in order to meet the most recent demands in terms of lightness and easy handling. The lever with integrated pallets has a straight shape ensuring better aerodynamics. Using silicon parts, which require no lubricants, not only improves the long-term precision of the watch, but also reduces the inertia of the components by about a third in comparison to the classically used steel. These improvements result in a 15 percent increase in the global efficiency of the escapement.

Innovative minute repeater

To provide an audible indication of the time, the Master Grande Tradition Grande Complication is equipped with an additional characteristic in the form of a mechanism sounding the hours, quarters and minutes on demand –a complication that would in itself make this a masterpiece.

The sound delivered by a musical watch relies heavily on the gongs, which are the essential sound-producing elements. To deliver the purest and most melodious possible sound, Jaeger-LeCoultre developed a new cathedral gong in 2010, procuring an exceptionally rich sound. These gongs are made of a special alloy and manufactured completely in one piece. Their cross section is square rather than the usual round shape, in order to provide a larger contact point for the hammer that can in turn strike more forcefully.
 
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Generally speaking, the sound of a repeater gong is enhanced by the vibration of the case of thewatch. In this instance, the experts of the Manufacture installed a different using their patented system in which the gongs are attached to a layer of metallic foil coatedonto the watch’s sapphire scrystal.

By pushing the dedicated slide on the side of the white gold case, the observer can admirethrough the back of the watch the sight of two small hammers in action. For this purpose, thewatchmakers invented a special mechanism christened the ‘trébuchet hammer’ to improve theacoustic properties of the striking mechanism. Instead of a traditional hammer they devised adual-axis-system with a special joint on a moveable arm. Once the mechanism is activated, thehammers are accelerated until they touch a small finger, whereupon a second moveable arm isreleased, thus helping to accelerate the hammers further shortly before the impact. This methodutilises around 80 percent of the force applied by the spring, whilst traditional hammer systemsonly deliver a mere 10 to 30 percent of the power originally applied.

The movement – classic decoration and modern materials

Manually-wound Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 945, launched in 2010, embodies the union between traditional watchmaking and contemporary technology with peerless elegance and refinement: all components are adorned with sunburst, circular-grained or snailed motifs, or feature a satin-brushed finish to accentuate the classical appearance of the construction.

The steel parts are polished and bevelled, the adjustment screws are blued and the screws for the settings are rhodium-plated. Nonetheless, when viewing the dial side of the watch, the eye is drawn to another spectacular characteristic: the flying tourbillon is equipped with a high-tech escapement featuring the dark shimmer of silicon that creates a delightful contrast with the mirror polish of the grade 5 titanium tourbillon carriage.

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The sapphire crystal caseback provides a chance to admire the refined finishes, while the dial is topped by a sapphire crystal framed by a domed bezel, underlining the classical look of the watch and further enhancing the appeal of this watch measuring 46.7 millimetres in diameter and elegantly concealing its respectable 15.92-millimetre height.

1000 Hours Chronometer Test – cutting-edge precision
 
To prove the reliability of its construction, the Master Grand Tradition Grande Complication, once completely finished and cased up, is subjected to the 1000 Hours Chronometer Test – an extended version of Jaeger-LeCoultre’s famed 1000 Hours test, which also takes into account all aspects of the official COSC chronometer-testing procedures.

By bringing together within a single timepiece a substantial portion of Jaeger-LeCoultre’sfundamental expertise in the field of Haute Horlogerie, the Grande Complication proves itself aworthy member of the Master Grande Tradition line. It embodies the very essence of classicalhorology combined with cutting-edge technology and enhanced by Rare Crafts.

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Technical specifications

Model: Master Grande Tradition Grande Complication

Reference: Q5053406, limited series of 8

Movement
Mechanical manually-wound Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 945,
Crafted, assembled and decorated by hand; ébauches in non-treated Maillechort
28,800 vibrations per hour
48-hour power reserve
527 parts
49 jewels
12.62 mm high
Silicon escapement
Functions
Hours, minutes
Rotating and orbital flying tourbillon
Sky chart of the northern hemisphere
Minute repeater with cathedral crystal gongs
Trébuchet hammers
Annual calendar (date, month)
Zodiac signs
24-hour indication
Dial
Aventurine set with brilliant-cut diamonds, two rows of baguette-cut sapphires,
lacquered guilloché dial rim
Hands: pear-type
Case
ø 46.7 mm, thickness : 15.92 mm
18-carat white gold
Water resistance: 5 bar
294 diamonds (19.80 cts)
Sapphire crystal case-back
Straps
Blue alligator leather with gem-set folding clasp

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Press release
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