Monday, April 21, 2014

CORUM – Admiral’s Cup AC - One 45 Skeleton


CORUM – Admiral’s Cup AC - One 45 Squelette NEW

With its new Admiral’s Cup AC-One 45 Squelette, Corum offers a full immersion into the heart of its intricate horological workings. The airy architecture of a finely openworked mechanism, together with the transparency of remarkably modern date disk and the lightness of the titanium clothing the case with its iconic lines, all contribute to earning this new model a place of its own within the world of Fine Watchmaking.

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Right from its launch in 1960, the Admiral’s Cup asserted itself as a frontrunner in the field of design with its powerful style emphatically defined by a twelve-sided bezel unlike any other. It was the kind of model destined to find its way through the decades with the tranquil assurance of those that have their finger firmly on the pulse of time and are able to anticipate trends. Ever since, it has consistently surprised observers by its ability to show up in consistently avant-garde compositions.

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The new Admiral’s Cup AC-One 45 Squelette is no exception. At the heart of its grade 5 titanium case beats a high-precision (28,800 vph) mechanism: automatic Caliber CO 9000. For the first time, this movement with its 42-hour power reserve appears in an entirely openworked architecture that draws all eyes to explore the heart of its intricate gear trains with their resolutely contemporary finish.

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Its power of attraction is further heightened by the absence of a dial, while a highly original transparent date disk bearing fully visible numerals lends an even more modern touch to the overall effect.

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While their base is applied on an anthracite-colored dial, the Superluminova-enhanced hourmarkers are extended to the point where they appear to be levitating around the rim of the date disk. This play on contrasts and depth effects is accentuated by the galvanic-treated inner bezel ring, duly framed by the Admiral’s Cup iconic nautical pennants.

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The generously sized 45 mm grade 5 titanium case with its layered construction is topped by its famous twelve-sided bezel, while black PVD inlays are strategically placed between the various elements to create an even more powerful effect. While the titanium features alternating polished surfaces and satin-brushed side plates, the sapphire crystal bears the metallized Corum logo. The equally transparent caseback offers its own perspective on the CO 9000 movement, and particularly on the finely openworked, Corum - personalized oscillating weight.
 
Alongside its remarkable style, the case also boasts impressive water resistance to 300 meters. An extremely elegant black crocodile strap fitted with a grade 5 titanium folding clasp sets the perfect finishing touch to this new Admiral’s Cup AC-One 45 Squelette.


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Technical Specifications

Reference: A082/02336

Movement
CO 9000 - Automatic
Power reserve:  42 hours
Frequency:  4 Hz, 28'800 vph
Jewels:  27
Case
Diameter:  45 mm
Material:  Titanium grade 5
Crystal:  Sapphire crystal with anti-reflective treatment
Back:  Screwed in open back cover in titanium grade 5 with glare proof sapphire crystal
Thickness:  13.30 mm
Water resistant:  300 meters / 30 ATM
Dial
Material:  No dial (Skeleton)
Finish:  Hourly nautical pennants and minute-circle indexes transferred on the flange,
CORUM logo transferred under the sapphire glass,
Applied rhodium-coated hour indexes with white superluminova
Bracelet
Color:  Black
Material:  Crocodile leather
Buckle:  Triple folding clasp
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Rue du Pet i t -Château 1 - Case postale 374 - CH-2301 La Chaux-de-Fonds - Switzerland
Tél. +41 (0) 32 967 06 70 
Fax +41 (0) 32 967 06 00  press@corum.ch
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Saturday, April 19, 2014

Cuervo y Sobrinos – Robusto Manjuari 1882

CUERVO Y SOBRINOS ROBUSTO Manjuari 1882 NEW

Swiss luxury watch brand Cuervo y Sobrinos enhances its diving watch collection Robusto Manjuari 1882 with a new, three-sphere version (Reference: 2808.1N3) featuring a black velvet dial. Introduced in 2011 in two versions (2808.1N black dial / 2808.1B white dial), the Robusto Manjuari 1882 is professional underwater watch with waterproof down to 600 meters.

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A modular case in steel, titanium and rubber, high-performance waterproofing, screw-on crown, maximum visibility and rubber for the case sides, too, giving it a very technical look. The rotating lunette in titanium and crystal ensures maximum readability even at great depths.

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This is a very sporty, innovative watch able to descend to great depths, which is, to 1882 feet, nearly 600 meters, with “1882” also standing for the year the brand was founded. Self-winding movement, 25 jewels at 28,800 frequencies and a 38-hour power reserve. Attractive in appearance and extremely comfortable to wear thanks to its soft rubber strap, with branded red lining.

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It’s inspired by a fish that’s an icon of Cuba, the “Manjuari”, a species endemic to the Caribbean Sea, prehistoric in origin, indigenous and now protected. This fish, with its unique appearance and peculiar shape is engraved on the rear of the watch to emphasize its sporty, undersea characteristics.

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Technical details

Model: ROBUSTO MANJUARI 1882

Reference: 2808.1N3
 
Characteristics
Professional underwater watch waterproof down to 1882 feet (600 meters)
Highly innovative modular case made in 3 different materials: steel, titanium and rubber
Rotating lunette in titanium and sapphire crystal
Engraved on the rear is the rare Manjuari fish indigenous to Cuba
Movement
Self-winding CyS 5102
SW 200-1, 11 ½’’
Diameter 25.6 mm
Height 4.6 mm
25 jewels
38-hour power reserve
Functions
Hours, minutes, seconds and date at 6 o' clock
Case
Modular, in steel and titanium with a rubber ring
Rubber sides attached to the steel
Rotating lunette in titanium and sapphire crystal with countdown minutes
Anti-reflection sapphire crystal on front and back
Guaranteed waterproof down to 1882 feet (600 meters)
Diameter: 43 mm
Height: 14,95 mm
Hands
Hours and minutes perforated with Superluminova in the tip,
central second with red color in the arrow-shaped tip, all rhodium treatment.
Case back: screw-on with laser-etched image of a Manjuari fish
Dial
"Black velvet", applied CyS emblem, indices with superluminova
Hands with Superluminova
Strap
Black rubber lined with red rubber with "1882" punched in
Stainless steel folding buckle
Buckle
Stainless steel folding buckle
Engraved CyS emblem

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Cuervo y Sobrinos SA
Via C. Maderno 54 CH-6825 Capolago
ph. +41 (091) 921 27 73
fax +41 (091) 921 27 75
Press contact: E-mail: info@cuervoysobrinos.ch
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Friday, April 18, 2014

Jaeger-LeCoultre – AMVOX2 Transponder















Jaeger-LeCoultreAMVOX2 Transponder


The new AMVOX2 Transponder watch has the ability to start your Aston Martin and embodies a blend of high-end mechanics and ingenious electronics. It offers the best of two diametrically opposing worlds and proves that no challenge is insurmountable for the Manufacture Jaeger-LeCoultre.

With the AMVOX2 Transponder, a mechanical and electronic hybrid, the Manufacture Jaeger-LeCoultre presents the latest result of its partnership with British sports car marque Aston Martin.

In 2006 this cooperation led to an avant-garde horological innovation. In the first AMVOX chronograph, Jaeger-LeCoultre developed an entirely unprecedented mechanism to activate the chronograph start, stop and reset functions. On this timepiece, the traditional push-pieces on the right side of the case are replaced by a lever on the left enabling an instant check as to whether the sapphire crystal watch glass is “active” or not. In the “locked” position, it is blocked in a central, neutral position; while in “unlocked” mode it can be tipped upwards or downwards in relation to a central horizontal axis. The chronograph start, stop and reset functions are activated by pivoting the watch glass towards 12 or 6 o’clock. To start the chronograph, the wearer tilts the glass by pressing the edge of the crystal at 12 o’clock, and stops it by repeating the same move and thus breaking off the current timing operation. Meanwhile, the central seconds hand as well as the 30-minute and 12-hour counters are reset by pressing the edge of the crystal at 6 o’clock. The whole process is simple, ingenious and intuitive. There is absolutely nothing to distract the wearer of an AMVOX2 when he wants to start the chronograph.

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The vertical-trigger action enabling this optimal user-friendliness is based on an entirely original mechanism. On the edge of the case, beneath the glass, a ball-and-socket joint uses the leverage effect generated by the pressure exercised on the crystal and thus controls the chronograph functions by transmitting precise impulses. Each of the levers involved in the process is mounted on a miniature stainless steel ball-bearing mechanism containing seven 0.1 mm-diameter balls.
The ‘engine’ powering the AMVOX2 chronograph is Calibre 751E: a column-wheel driven, vertical-clutch movement developed and produced by Jaeger-LeCoultre, featuring a 65-hour power reserve and an index-free Swiss lever escapement. The watchmaker adjusts any variations in rate of the watch using four tiny screws placed around the rim of the balance. These screws enable him to spread the weight in a carefully targeted manner and to thereby rapidly compensate for any existing imbalance. Extrapolating a little to the automobile world, this operation is comparable to balancing the forged aluminium wheels and performance tyres on an Aston Martin. The rotor serving to wind Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 751E is mounted on a ceramic ball-bearing mechanism requiring no maintenance, guaranteeing that all wrist movements will be sustainably transformed into new energy for the barrel of the AMVOX2.

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The major difference between the 2014 version of this timepiece and the original 2006 model lies in its remote lock/unlock function controlling the doors of an Aston Martin. For the new 2014 AMVOX2 Transponder, Jaeger-LeCoultre has integrated the remote lock/unlock function which enables the wearer to control the doors of their Aston Martin within the watch case. Some may well recall that there were already certain AMVOX watches equipped with this function and that is indeed so, since Jaeger-LeCoultre had already developed the concept for the AMVOX DBS Transponder, AMVOX2 DB9 Transponder and AMVOX2 Rapide Transponder. However, these versions were thus named because they worked exclusively with the Aston Martin DBS, DB9 or Rapide cars – and not, like The new AMVOX2 Transponder is compatible with all current model range Aston Martins.

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Owners of an AMVOX2 Transponder can use it to lock or unlock their Aston Martin from a distance or to find it easily by turning on the headlights. With the AMVOX2 Transponder, Aston Martin drivers can now activate and programme these functions for all models currently in production. The watch does not however entirely replace the key of the car, for while opening and closing can indeed be operated using the Jaeger-LeCoultre watch, the Keyless Access function serving to start the engine of an Aston Martin by pressing the engine stop/start button still requires the presence of the ignition key. One particular detail deserves special attention: opening an Aston Martin by simply pressing the sapphire crystal of the watch procures the same feeling as when the driver starts the engine using the stop/start button –since both smooth moves involve pressing a round sapphire crystal surface. This perfect interaction between watch and car is engineered via a micro-transmitter built intothe double case-back of the AMVOX2. The antenna of the system, positioned directly beneath the watch glass, is however clearly visible. It has been meticulously applied by thermal vapour deposition between 8 and 4 o’clock so as to ensure optimal communication with the Aston Martin as well as low energy consumption, thus saving battery power. Jaeger-LeCoultre designers naturally took the opportunity to transform this technical constraint into a decorative feature on the watch. Two elegant and discreet sensors marked “Open” and “Close” have also been applied by thermal vapour deposition beneath the watch glass, and a light touch is enough to lock or unlock the Aston Martin and light up the headlights.

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For the 2014 AMVOX2 Transponder, Jaeger-LeCoultre has further perfected the initial concept, which was to make a user-friendly chronograph for ambitious sports car drivers. The watch has the same vertical-trigger start, stop and reset system via the watch glass; the ingenious Jaeger-LeCoultre mechanism integrated beneath the dial to enable this activation; and the incomparable appeal of a chronograph free of the conventional stop/start pushers on the right side of the case. On the other hand, the microelectronics housed inside the double caseback of the AMVOX, together with the antenna applied by thermal vapour deposition to the watch glass and jointly serving to enable communication with the car have been further refined. Nonetheless, this watch would not be a true Jaeger-LeCoultre if it did not offer a small yet remarkable distinctive feature. When the ‘heart’ of the AMVOX2 Transponder, Calibre 751E, is in operation and making its characteristic ticking sound, the logo can be seen spinning on its axis at the rate of once a minute in a small window at 6 o’clock. If it stops, that means the watch has also stopped.

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Technical Characteristics

Reference:  Q192T480 (global version) and Q192T48A (US version)

Movement
• mechanical automatic movement,
 Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 751E
• frequency: 28,800 vibrations per hour
• 41 jewels
• 5.65 mm thick
• 280 parts
• 65-hour power reserve
Functions
• Hours, minutes, chronograph, operating indicator, date
• Chronograph vertical-trigger system activated by tilting the case
• Transponder
Dial
• Satin-brushed black and ruthenium
• Luminescent numerals and hour-markers
Aiguilles
•Baton-type, luminescent
Case
• Titanium
• Diameter 44 mm
• Sapphire crystal
• Water resistance: 5 bar
Strap
• Leather, satin-brushed steel folding clasp

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Thursday, April 17, 2014

OMEGA – Seamaster 300 makes a comeback















OMEGASeamaster 300 makes a comeback NEW


In 1957, OMEGA introduced its Seamaster 300 – a watch designed specifically for divers and professionals who worked underwater. The unidirectional rotating bezel and diving scale, along with the combination of a black dial, lighter indexes and large hands and numbers, made it possible for divers to read the time in a variety of light conditions whether they were on land or below the ocean’s surface.

More than half a century later, the Seamaster 300 is reintroduced in a completely upgraded and enhanced form, prepared to equip a new generation of adventurers on land and in the oceans.
The 41 mm Seamaster 300 is available in an impressive selection of metallic materials including stainless steel, 950 platinum, grade 5 titanium and 18K Sedna™ gold. Bicolour options pairing grade 5 titanium and 18K Sedna™ gold or stainless steel and 18K Sedna™ gold are distinguished by their timeless, understated aesthetic appeal.

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OMEGA’s latest innovations in one collection

A sand blasted black dial
The sand blasted black dial of the Seamaster 300 features white transferred dial indications.
The central hour, minute and seconds hands are coated with “vintage” Super-LumiNova and the hour and seconds hands emit a blue light as do the recessed hour markers. The minute hand is also coated with Super-LumiNova but emits a green light.

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Smooth stainless steel with a Liquidmetal® diving scale
The stainless steel timepiece feature a sand-blasted black dial which complements the polished black ceramic bezel ring decorated with a Liquidmetal® diving scale. Recessed hour markers are coated with “vintage” Super-LumiNova which emits a blue light as do the rhodium-plated hour and seconds hands; the minute hand and the dot  on the bezel are coated with Super-LumiNova that emits a green light.

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Striking 18K OMEGA Sedna™ gold
One of the most brilliant wristwatches in the Seamaster 300 collection features a case and bracelet made from OMEGA’s 18K Sedna™ gold – an exclusive material that was introduced at Baselworld in 2013. Its sand-blasted black dial is adorned with facetted 18K Sedna™ gold hands and white transferred dial indications. The polished black ceramic bezel ring is enriched with an OMEGA Ceragold™ diving scale.

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Master Co-Axial calibre 8400/8401
With the Seamaster 300, OMEGA is proud to introduce two calibres in its new family of high-quality mechanical movements. The Master Co-Axial calibre 8400/8401 not only boasts the same accuracy, precision and reliability as its Co-Axial predecessors but also features our revolutionary anti-magnetic technology, which ensures that the Seamaster 300 – or any timepiece equipped with a Master Co-Axial movement – resists magnetic fields greater than 15,000 gauss (1.5 tesla). The officially certified chronometer is water resistant to 30 bar (300 metres / 1000 feet) and is offered with a full four-year warranty.

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The caseback of each timepiece is engraved with “Si14”, “ANTI-MAGNETIC > 15’000 GAUSS” and, depending on what alloy the diving scale is made of, “Liquidmetal®” or “Omega Ceragold™”.

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A domed scratch-resistant sapphire crystal allows an unobstructed view of the movement inside. The Master Co-Axial calibre 8400 equips the bi-colour, stainless steel and grade 5 titanium models while the Master Co-Axial calibre 8401, with its special luxury finish, powers the models crafted from 18K Sedna™ gold and 950 platinum.

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Patented rack-and-pusher clasp
Bracelets of each timepiece are fashioned with OMEGA’s patented rack-and-pusher clasp, which is adjustable to six different positions making it possible for the watch to fit over the sleeve of a diving suit. The bracelet is adjusted by releasing the clasp, pressing the “push” button and sliding the inner clasp to the desired fit.

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Like its historic predecessor from 1957, the Seamaster 300 features a symmetric case and a unidirectional rotating bezel as well as a dark dial, lighter indexes and big hands and numbers for easier reading in various lighting conditions.
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Technical Specifications

Reference: 233.30.41.21.01

MOVEMENT
Caliber: Omega 8400
Self-winding movement with Co-Axial escapement for greater precision, stability and durability.
Resistant to magnetic fields greater than 15,000 gauss.
Free sprung-balance with silicon balance spring, two barrels mounted in series, automatic winding in both directions to reduce winding time.
Bridges and the oscillating weight are decorated with exclusive Geneva waves in arabesque.
Power reserve: 60 hours
FEATURES
Unidirectional rotating bezel
Chronometer
Screw-in crown
Transparent case back
Anti-magnetic
TECHNICAL DATA
Crystal: Domed scratch-resistant
sapphire crystal with anti-reflective treatment inside
Case: Steel - Sedna gold
Bracelet: Steel - Sedna gold
Dial: Black
Water resistant: 30 bar (300 metres / 1000 feet)
Size: Case Diameter: 41 mm
AVAILABILITY
Avant-première at Baselworld,
available in stores in November 2014

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Wednesday, April 16, 2014

Romain Jerome – Eyjafjallajökull-DNA Evo

















RJ-Romain Jerome Eyjafjallajökull-DNA Evo Limited Edition NEW

BASELWORLD 2014

RJ-Romain Jerome turns to Mother’s Earth treasures and celebrates the fourth anniversary of the Icelandic volcano’s eruption that stranded over 100,000 travellers in various parts of the world.
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On April 14th  2010, the Eyjafjallajökull Icelandic volcano erupted causing the European airspace to shut down for a period of six days. This historical event marked the minds of millions of people and inspired RJ-Romain Jerome to create the Eyjafjallajökull-DNA timepiece belonging to the “Earth” collection.

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Conveying memories of fire and lava, swept over by powerful images of dust and winds, the Eyjafjallajökull-DNA timepiece is a true testament to Mother Earth’s temper and man’s timeless respect when faced with her strength.

Celebrating the fourth anniversary of the eruption, RJ-Romain Jerome introduces the Eyjafjallajökull Evo timepiece inspired by the original legend. With a new retro, vintage look, the watch has evolved with a 43mm black PVDcoated steel case designed by Daniel Haas.

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The eruption has been immortalised with lava stone used as the base of the dial. The tips of the minute and hour hands mirror the grounded aircrafts whilst lava seems to be seeping through the dial with a beautifully hand drawn volcanic fissure in cold enamel.

This exquisite handcrafted dial is highlighted by a black alligator strap, allowing the wearer to appreciate the chaotic scene unfolding on his wrist.

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The eruption marked the day where Nature played a major role in the world’s global stand still and allowed man to reflect on his own philosophy of time. Available in a limited edition of 99 pieces, the timepiece gives you the chance to own a part of your own history.
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RJ-Romain Jerome illustrates our contemporary history and reminds us of marking events that have occurred and touched us on many emotional levels. The Eyjafjallajökull Evo timepiece captures the rupture between our planets’ ongoing changes and man’s never ending thirst for travel, personal achievement and technological breakthroughs.



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TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS

Eyjafjallajökull-DNA Evo

Reference RJ.V.AU.003.01

| Collection Eyjafjallajökull-DNA |Universe EARTH

MOVEMENT
 Mechanical self-winding movemen
Caliber: RJ002-A 
Jewelling: 30 jewels
Rate Frequency: 28,800 v/h
Power reserve: 40 hours
Water resistance: 3 atm (30 meters)
Dial indication: Central hours & minutes
FUNCTIONS Hours, Minutes
DESCRIPTION 
Case: Ø 43mm
Dial
Crafted from lava stone ejected by the erupting Eyjafjallajökull volcano with red fissures
representing the lava seeping from a volcanic fissure
Hands:
Rhodiumed hour & minute hands inspired by grounded planes
Bezel: Satin-finished black PVD-coated steel
Paws: Polished black PVD-coated steel
Lugs: Satin-finished black PVD-coated steel
Crown: Black PVD-coated steel
Case-back: Iceland map engraving
Strap:
Black alligator with black PVD-coated steel pin buckle

Year: 2014
Limited edition 99 pieces

Retail price CHF 13,950.-* / EUR 13,950.-* / USD 16,950.-*

*RJ-Romain Jerome reserves the right to change prices without prior notice.
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RJ Watches S.A.
Rue du Marché 11
1204 Geneva
Switzerland
Tél. +41 22 319 29 39
Fax +41 22 319 29 30
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SAINT HONORE – Worldcode GMT











SAINT HONOREWorldcode GMT NEW


Discover the new Worldcode GMT, Taking on the challenge of time

WORLDCODE is the sporty chic watch in the SAINT HONORE collection. Following the success of its Diving and Chronograph Ceramic versions, the WORLDCODE now comes in a GMT model.

GMT, which stands for Greenwich Mean Time, is a complication that is particularly valued by travellers as it allows them to read off the time in more than one time zone: three in the case of the WORLDCODE GMT, including two simultaneously.

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While the traditional hands (hours and minutes) give the main time, the addition of an extra hours hand means the time can be read simultaneously in a second time zone on a 24-hour scale engraved on the bezel.

Thanks to this bezel and its rotating feature, it is also possible to read the time in a third time zone.

This new WORLDCODE GMT has been slightly modified compared to previous editions, stylishly enhancing its masculinity: it now has a 43 mm round steel case and a bezel with 12 impeccably regular notches. The meticulously screw-locked crown is of exceptional quality.

In either the black or brown version, the sunray dial is decorated with white luminescent hour-markers and hands to ensure perfect readability in all conditions. The same goes for the red GMT hand with its triangular marking of white luminescent pigment.

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Because the new Worldcode GMT quartz has no limits, SAINT HONORE has extended its water resistance to 150 metres to appeal to water sports lovers.

Available in four variations, mounted on a steel bracelet or leather strap, in a steel or rose gold version, the WORLDCODE GMT has all the qualities a man could dream of, combining an exceptional design with unsurpassed quality at this price level.

The new Worldcode GMT takes on every challenge – in the air, on the ground or under water – and always with that special SAINT HONORE elegance!


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Technical details:
- Movement SWISS MADE quartz
- Steel case, 43 mm
- Stainless steel bezel, rose PVD finish and black aluminium insert
- Sapphire glass
- Dark black dial, white luminescent indexes and hands
- Second 24-hour time zone
- Large date aperture at 6 h
- Quartz movement
- Water resistant to 150m
- Brushed and polished metal bracelet on deploying buckle
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www.swisstime.ch
 

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Tuesday, April 15, 2014

Frederique Constant – Manufacture Heart Beat Limited Edition















Frederique ConstantManufacture Heart Beat Limited Edition NEW

BASELWORLD 2014
Frederique Constant celebrates its 10 Years Heart Beat Manufacture
Introducing the Heart Beat Manufacture Calibre FC-945 Silicium


Following the success of the launch of the first Heart Beat Manufacture Calibre in 2004, Frederique Constant has presented every year an additional version to its Heart Beat Manufacture range. Some features remained constant, such as the signature aperture, perfectly centred at the 6 o’clock position. Each year, however, new design features have been added; the Heart Beat is constantly being revised, updated and technically advanced.

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In 2014, Frederique Constant will introduce the new FC-945 Silicium Heart Beat Calibre, improved in terms of reliability, durability and pure technical excellence. For the past two years, the R&D Department at Frederique Constant has been designing, developing and improving the 126 components contained in the all-new Heart Beat Manufacture. Now, our company is delighted to introduce its implementation of the newest, most technologically superior materials available in the world today.

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Solving old problems
The accuracy of any mechanical timepiece is utterly dependent on the accuracy of the actual timing device, the balance wheel, balance spring and the escapement. The balance wheel’s job is to spin back and forth at a frequency of 4Hz. It is the frequency of the swing of the balance wheel, which determines the watch’s accuracy.

The escapement’s most critical function is to keep the balance spring winding and unwinding. Since watches were first invented, the requirements assigned to the escapement have involved high levels of friction. The teeth of the escapement wheel are driven by the mainspring’s power source. They slide against the teeth of the ratchet a nano-second before they lock together. This is the friction, which kicks the anchor. It is also the friction that means lubrication will be necessary.

The ticking sound of a Frederique Constant watch is created when the balance spring gear and the escapement teeth lock together. In virtually all-modern escapements, the ratchet’s teeth are extremely hard and highly polished stone. Despite these levels of strength and polished smoothness, lubrication is still required.

Until now, lubrication has been required to protect escapements from the damaging effects of friction. As the lubrication used in the escapement ages, thins or dries out, the level of friction increases, and less power is transferred to the all-important balance wheel.

Unless an escapement is properly lubricated, it can become damaged to the point where metal parts will have to be replaced. Modern watches are typically more reliable than their predecessors due to the higher quality oils used to lubricate the escapement. To maintain mechanical watches in optimum working condition, they normally require cleaning and lubricating every four years.

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Introducing Silicium
Silicium is the chemical element represented in the periodic table by the symbol Si; its atomic number is 14. A tetravalent metalloid, Silicium is less reactive than its chemical analogue, carbon. Silicium does not freely occur in nature but mainly occurs in minerals consisting of virtually pure Silicium dioxide in different crystalline forms, including quartz, chalcedony and opal. It is also found in silicates (various minerals containing Silicium, oxygen and one other metal), such as feldspar. Silicium is the principal component of most semi-conductor devices and takes the form of silica and silicates in glass, cement and ceramics. Silicium is widely used in semi-conductors, because it remains a semi-conductor at higher temperatures than does the semi-conductor Germanium. In addition, Silicium’s native oxide is easily grown in a furnace and forms a better semi-conductor/dielectric interface than virtually all other material combinations. In its crystalline form, Silicium is dark gray in colour and has a metallic lustre. It is similar to glass in that it is quite strong. Pure Silicium has a negative temperature coefficient of resistance, because the number of free charge carriers increases with temperature.


Manufacturing a Silicium escapement
The crafting of a Silicium escapement wheel requires the use of a new technology called Deep Reactive Ion Etching (DRIE).  A multiple image of the escapement is produced and projected onto a round Silicium wafer measuring 100 mm in diameter by just 0.5 mm in thickness. Typically, wafers are made in various sizes ranging from 1 inch (25.4 mm) to 11.8 inches (300 mm), and generally to a thickness of 0.5 mm. The wafers are cut from a boule of semi-conductor using a diamond saw or diamond wire; they are then polished on one or both faces. Using a single 100 mm wafer, it is possible to produce up to 250 escapement wheels.
The wafer itself is composed of three different substrates, or layers of Silicium. The central substrate functions as the separation layer. After the image of the escapement wheel has been projected on the wafer, the exposed lacquered substrate is cleaned away, leaving the non-exposed parts of the wafer. Then, the non-exposed lacquered substrate is etched with plasma, down to the separation layer. The Silicium escapement is then released via isotropic etching. The pieces produced by this operation only have to be cleaned on the surface. Each wheel is completely identical and requires absolutely no balancing, centring or polishing. Such wafers are the keys to the fabrication of the Frédérique Constant Silicium escapement.

Click on the mouse wheel to see the large size ...       BIG FOTO

Benefits of the Silicium Escapement
   
Lubricant-free running
  •     1.Age-related thinning and drying of lubrication will no longer occur.
  •     2.An escapement wheel that doesn’t require oiling avoids the risk of excess oil spreading to other parts of the movement.
Very light (low inertia)   
  •    The escapement wheel is accelerated and stopped at each tick and tock of
  •    the watch.
  •    The low-weight Silicium escapement wheel has lower inertia, thereby
  •    increasing energy efficiency.
Good friction properties 
  •    Lower friction reduces energy loss. Hence, the energy requirements for this
  •    calibre are lower.
The Heart Beat Manufacture features a Silicium escapement that uses less power and maintains amplitude more efficiently than a standard lever escapement, because it functions without lubrication.

Click on the mouse wheel to see the large size ...       BIG FOTO































Building technical perfection into a beautiful body
The Heart Beat Manufacture watches with the new Silicium escapement are part of the Frederique Constant Manufacture Collection. The Heart Beat Manufacture Silicium features the recognizable popular patented balance wheel bridge on the front side of the calibre.The Silicium escapement wheel can clearly be seen through the Heart Beat aperture in the dial, working tirelessly and at the same time creating an eye-catching effect. The new Heart Beat Manufacture Silicium Calibre is housed in a stainless steel case, measuring 42 mm in diameter. The popular sapphire crystal see-through case back is another feature certain to please. This first Frédérique Constant Heart Beat Manufacture model with Silicium escapement wheel and specially designed dial will only be offered in a limited edition of 188 pieces in 18K gold and 1888 in steel.

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Technical Specifications

References FC-945MC4H9 - 18K Rose Gold case limited edition of 188 pieces
References FC-945MC4H6Stainless steel case limited edition of 1888 pieces

Movement
Manufacture Automatic movement Calibre FC-945 Silicium
Côte de Genève decoration with Perlage design
Gold plated rotor decorated with Côte de Genève
26 jewels, 28'800 alt/h
Silicium escapement wheel, Anker,
Plateau Heart Beat aperture, hour and minute displays
13 ¼ line (30.5 mm diameter)
42 power reserve, with
Efficiency gear train calculated at 94%
KIF fine regulation
KIF anti-shock (2x)
Balance wheel glucydur
Spiral Nivarox No. 1 Amplitude +/- 300° at 0h and +/- 280° at 24h
Functions
Hours, Minutes, Date,
Moonphase, 24H, Heart Beat.
Case
18K Rose Gold case & Stainless steel case
Diameter of 42mm with Convex sapphire and 2-O-Rings crown,
Height 11.6mm.
Water-resistant to 5 ATM.
Dials
Silver, guilloché, printed roman numerals
Strap
Alligator strap
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