Wednesday, January 22, 2014

VACHERON CONSTANTIN – Platinum PATRIMONY Traditionnelle 14-Day Tourbillon Openworked
















VACHERON CONSTANTIN PATRIMONY Traditionnelle 14-Day Tourbillon Openworked Platinum NEW

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Vacheron Constantin illustrates an unexpected encounter between tradition and modernity in its Patrimony Traditionnelle 14-day tourbillon openworked model. Combining the tourbillon complication with the art of openworking, both of which were born at the dawn of the 19th century, the Manufacture transcends the codes of these ancestral skills to offer an eminently contemporary composition. Playing with a double three-dimensional effect stemming both from the architecture of the 2260 SQ movement and from its Gothic inspiration, the model displays impressive depth highlighted by components featuring cleverly destructured lines.

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While the first tourbillon emerged in 1801, the ability to develop and craft this horological complication in-house remains the exclusive preserve of a rare circle of Manufactures. Those able to openwork such a demanding calibre are an even rarer breed and among them, very few also rise to the challenge of endowing it with a 14-day power reserve. Vacheron Constantin belongs to this exclusive circle.

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Combining a tourbillon with such an impressive power reserve calls for a specific construction. The Patrimony Traditionnelle 14-day tourbillon openworked comprises no less than four barrels stacked in pairs in the upper part of the movement, making it more ‘crowded’ than art.Vacheronthe Constantin tamed these differences in volume by structuring its Calibre 2260 SQP in layers and thus creating a depth effect that the Manufacture has accentuated through an engraving motif specially designed to exalt the three-dimensional effect.

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Modern style backed by the quest for “shapes

Traditionally, engraving artisans follow the line or curve of the hollowed bridges and mainpalte in giving life to an openworked calibre. This is in itself an extremely delicate task that involves ensuring that the components interact to perfection despite the removal of material, and to create transparency effects that will reveal the slightest imperfection and can thus tolerate no mistakes.



Constantly on the look-out for fresh challenges, Vacheron Constantin lays a new milestone in this demanding art by adopting an approach well off the beaten track in its Calibre 2260 SQ. In order to ensure that the openwork echoes the distinctive movement architecture, the Manufacture has   undertaken  stylistic resear Overturning classic conventions governing aesthetic equilibrium, certain mechanical elements form Gothic-inspired ribbed vaults, disrupting lines and destructuring curves. The three-dimensional construction of the calibre is highlighted by a fresh interplay of light and structure; the sense of depth and height is further accentuated; while the contrasts between the matt and polished finishes infuse the model with unique radiance.

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A meticulous task

While openworking stems from purely aesthetic considerations, it nonetheless makes each stage even more complex compared with a solid calibre. Striking such a subtle balance between openworking and functionality thus calls for an average two months for the conception and modelisation phases alone, as well as long hours of hand-drawing, chamfering and engraving. All these operations require nimble fingers as well as infinite patience. This is an art in which the Manufacture Vacheron Constantin excels, and which it has been faithfully exercising by hand ever since the first openworked and engraved balance-cock produced at the time of its founding almost 260 years ago. Calibre 2260 SQ is entirely in tune with this longstanding hand-crafted tradition. Its distinctive layered construction results in a substantial surface to be decorated and thus implies even more manual workmanship. Compared with the solid base movement, a single 2260 SQ calibre requires 10 additional hours of chamfering and hand-drawing, as well as 40 extra hours of engraving.

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An exceptional watch with Hallmark of Geneva certification

At Vacheron Constantin, excellence and concern for detail are not confined to the movement, however exceptional it may be. The fascinating mechanical architecture of Calibre 2260 SQ is housed in due style within the pure lines of a precious platinum case. Dispensing with a central dial, the Patrimony Traditionnelle 14-day tourbillon openworked model instead features an elegant slate-grey ring around its inner rim, graced with white gold hour-markers.The tourbillon carriage at sweeping6o’clockthesmallsecondsspins hand in its wake.
From the mechanism to the exterior, everything about this new creation from Vacheron Constantin embodies perfect execution. The watch indeed bears the prestigious Hallmark of Geneva, the highest benchmark of Fine Watchmaking testifying to the quality, the craftsmanship and the reliability of an exceptional timepiece crafted within the confines of Canton Geneva.

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The art and technique of openworking

Far more than a mere object of mechanical excellence indicating the time, a timepiece by Vacheron Constantin is by essence destined to be a full-fledged work of art capable of revealing all the beauty of unique expertise enriched by over 260 years of history. Ever since its founding in 1755, the Manufacture has consistently enhanced the beauty of its creations through artistic crafts exercised by skilled artisans. Hand engraving is one such technique. A demanding art calling for exceptional patience and dexterity, it was used right from the start as a means of achieving ethereal lightness. The first watch created by Jean-Marc Vacheron in 1755 already featured an openworked and engraved balance-cock. The quest for transparency then continued, with increasingly finely fashioned mechanical parts, leading to the creation in 1924 of the first entirely openworked calibre beating at the heart of a pocket watch. A past master in the practice of this extremely intricate discipline, Vacheron Constantin has given free rein to its creativity, progressively openworking both simple and complicated calibres, associating them according to its inspiration with other artistic crafts, and interpreting these miniature marvels both on pocket-watches and wristwatches from the 1960s onwards.

Not content with being one of the rare manufacturers capable of openworking such complex calibres as minute repeaters, perpetual calendars and tourbillons, Vacheron Constantin once again pushes the boundaries of its art by reinventing both the technique itself and the aesthetic codes governing it. The engraving thus becomes a sculpture, as the straight lines morph into interlacing curves, while the watch parts become architectural works creating mesmerising light effects.

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                  Openworking, or the art of transparent 
                          and ethereal mechanical magic



The all-important initial touch of the watchmaker


While openworking is a purely aesthetic approach in itself, it nonetheless induces additional complexity at each stage compared with a solid calibre. Everything begins with a lengthy consideration of the movement that is to be openworked as much as possible so as to reveal its inner beauty. This calls upon the full wealth of experience of the finest master-watchmakers, since it involves achieving a subtle balance between hollowing out as much of the material as possible, while ensuring that the calibre remains perfectly functional. The conceptualisation, design and modelisation phases take several hundred hours, a figure that increases in step with the level of sophistication of the calibre, particularly in terms of complications.

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Enter the artisans

Once this subtle balance has been found, the artisans take over, marking the start of a long period of patient, accurate and rigorously disciplined endeavours. The mainplate, bridges, barrel and other mechanical parts that have been previously drilled and cut out occupy their nimble fingers for dozens of hours until they are ready to reveal their appealing new face. Working by hand with each component in turn, the artisans create subtle contrasts between the finished polish of the chamfering that will catch the light, and the matt effect of the hand-drawing that will accentuate the radiance. While this is in itself a demanding task, it is rendered even more complex by the curved openings and interior angles –some narrower than 45° –favoured by Vacheron Constantin in its openworked creations, and which no machine could possible reproduce.

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The chamfering and hand-drawing are followed by the engraving itself. For around one full week for each calibre, the engraver incises and sculpts the material with meticulous strokes of the burin in order to create the original motifs imagined by Vacheron Constantin, giving them their delightfully rounded relief. Each gesture is highly accurate –in some cases to the nearest tenth of a millimetre –and the aesthetic sensitivity of the artist-artisan is finely attuned to instilling each component with unique character.

Back to the workbench

Assembling and adjusting an openworked calibre is a particularly complex task, since the loss of material resulting from the openworking inevitably leads to certain distortions of the parts. For the watchmaker, this means retouching them again and again until their impeccable interaction is guaranteed. Throughout this lengthy process, he makes sure that no dust settles in the hollowed-out surfaces, and also carefully complies with the extremely stringent standards imposed by the Hallmark of Geneva. He devotes special attention to each part, notably the chamfered parts, so as to ensure their perfect aesthetic and functional execution.

This perfection is once again severely tested when casing up the movement, since the transparency stemming from the openworking highlights every single perfection, however tiny. Well before the start of the long sequence of water-resistance, reliability and precision testing begins, the calibre returns several times to the workbench until the full magic of a masterfully executed openworked movement begins to weave its spell. Just as as in other fields, the exceptional in terms of horology stems from an ideal blend of excellence and patience

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TECHNICAL CHARACTERISTICS

Patrimony Traditionnelle 14-day tourbillon openworked

Reference:    89010/000P-9935

Hallmark of Geneva certified timepiece

Calibre:    2260 SQ
Developed and manufactured by Vacheron Constantin
Mechanical, manual-winding
29.10    mm   (12 ’’’ ¾   )   diameter
6.80 mm thick
Approximately 336 power reserve
2.5Hz    (18’000   vibrations/hour)
231 components
31 jewels
Indications:
Heures, Minutes
Small    seconds   at   6   o’clock   on   tour
Power Reserve
Tourbillon
Case:
Platinum 950
42.00 mm diameter, 12.22 mm thick
Transparent sapphire crystal caseback
Water-resistance tested at a pressure of 3 bar (approx. 30 meters)
Dial  
Slate-colored external ring with 18K white gold applied hour-markers
and white minute-track
Strap:
Black Mississippiensis alligator leather, hand-stitched, saddle-finish,
large square scales
Clasp:
Triple-blade folding clasp in platinum 950
Polished half Maltese cross-shaped

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For more information please contact:
Sra. Jennifer Lara
Marketing & Communications Manager Latin America
Vacheron Constantin
jennifer.lara@vacheron-constantin.com
Luis Alejandro López-Silva
Public Relations Agency Manager
PR4U para Vacheron Constantin México
pr4u.agency@me.com


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De Bethune – Dream Watch 5














De BethuneDream Watch 5 NEW

Press release Geneva 2014

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Transcending horology through artistry in order to leave room for the emotional force and the beauty of the work: such is the message delivered by David Zanetta and Denis Flageollet.

The quest undertaken by De Bethune and expressed through its timepiece is intended to embody 21st century watchmaking.

Understanding historical principles and the works of the Great Masters serves to build contemporary creations and to establish aesthetic codes aimed at perpetuating the timeless nature of watchmaking.

Tomorrow’s watchmaking is the object of daily study and thought for David Zanetta and Denis Flageollet, who interpret it through all the entire range of horological creations of De Bethune. The Dream Watch collection is at once the most extreme and the most accomplished embodiment of this creative folly.

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Whether it stems from the past, is expressed in the present or foreshadows the future, the beauty in art is truly eternal.

The Dream Watch 5 aims to nurture this aesthetic ambition thanks to its design codes and the means borrowed from the field of horology favoured by the brand founders. This model positioned on the frontiers of an eclectic watchmaking scene is indeed not necessarily defined as a watch, since its horological attributes – however innovative and high-tech – do not constitute the primary interest of this creation.

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An authentic wrist sculpture, Dream Watch 5 derives its unusual shape from its predecessors, from the bridge of Dream Watch 1 through to the case of Dream Watch 4: it encapsulates an ongoing work of research on shapes, materials and colours. In step with successive creations, the design has been pared down to a cambered delta- shaped motif representing the major element of the collection’s aesthetic and more generally that of De Bethune watches.

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Taut lines and distinctive depth effects: Dream Watch 5 owes its avant-garde character to aesthetic codes relating to space, movement and speed. Its soft curves, together with the silky cambered shape of the titanium case adorned with a perfectly executed polish, endow it with timeless elegance, while a cabochon-cut ruby gently adorning the crown sets the perfect finishing touch.

The miniaturisation of the mechanism demonstrates a clear-cut determination to give pride of place to design – as admirably demonstrated by the diminutive space allotted to the display of the hours, minutes and moon- phase functions. This aesthetically-oriented approach deliberately and effectively diverts the meaning of conventional horological terms as well as the rational comprehension of the object.

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Technical Specifications

Calibre DB 2144
Mechanical hand-wound movement
Functions: aperture-type jumping hours – rotating-disc analogue minutes display – spherical moon-phase indication at the centre
Diameter 30mm – 329 parts – hand-crafted finishing and decoration
Self-regulating twin barrel *
Silicon/white gold balance wheel – balance-spring with flat end curve*
Triple pare-chute shock-absorbing system*
Spherical moon-phase indication accurate to a degree of one lunar day every 1,112 years*
Silicon escape wheel*
Jewelling: 32 jewels
Frequency: 28,800 vibrations per hour
Power reserve: 5 days
*Manufacture De Bethuneinnovations and registered patents

Fonctions
Hours – minutes – moon phase
Movement
Calibre DB2144 – mechanical hand-wound movement
Power reserve: 5 days
Case
Delta curve in grade 5 titanium – width 49 mm – length 39 mm – thickness 11 mm
Glass: domed sapphire crystal with double anti-reflective treatment
Crown at 3 o’clock adorned with a 1-carat cabochon-cut ruby
Back: solid, in grade 5 titanium, bearing the signatures of David Zanetta and Denis Flageollet
Display
Jumping-hour aperture at 3 o’clock in polished blued grade 5 titanium
Analogue minutes indicator on a rotating disc
Spherical moon-phase indicator at the centre
Strap
Extra-supple alligator leather with pin buckle

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Press release
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Tuesday, January 21, 2014

OFFICINE PANERAI - Luminor 1950 Chrono Monopulsante Left-Handed 8 Days Titanio - 47mm PAM579





















OFFICINE PANERAI Luminor 1950 Chrono Monopulsante Left-Handed 8 Days Titanio - 47mm PAM579 Limited Edition NEW

 

Every detail of the Luminor 1950 Chrono Monopulsante Left-Handed 8 Days Titanio tells a piece of the history of Panerai watches. The new Special Edition, a unique edition limited to 300 units, reunites many of the characteristics designed and developed in the course of the thirties and forties for the Panerai watches made for the commandos of the Royal Italian Navy, integrating them perfectly with the technical solutions and materials of high quality contemporary sports watchmaking.

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The Luminor 1950 case of the new chronograph has a detail which has a striking effect on the design of the watch, derived from some of the historic models: the winding crown and the device for protecting it are fitted on the left side. The reason for this choice lies in the history of Panerai, which more than 70 years ago produced examples designed for commandos who preferred to wear the watch on the right wrist, with the compass and depth gauge on the other wrist. To keep the shape of the device protecting the crown aesthetically pure, the push-piece which controls all the chronograph functions is positioned on the right side of the watch, at two o’clock. In spite of the case diameter of 47 mm, a classic size of the period models which were worn over the diving suit, its weight has been substantially reduced through the choice of titanium, a material which among other things is strongly resistant to corrosion and is also hypo-allergenic.

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Other elements which have their roots in the history of Panerai are the cambered crystal protecting the dial and the structure of the dial itself, which is formed of two superimposed plates enclosing the luminous substance, visible through the holes cut in the upper part corresponding to the indexes. This structure, combined with the legendary cleanness of the dial design, ensures the greatest clarity and legibility even under the poorest lighting conditions.

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Through the transparent back the hand-wound P.2004/9 movement can be seen, revealing details of its original construction with large brushed finish bridges, chamfered and polished angles and screws with a mirror-polished finish. With its three spring barrels, the movement is supplied with a constant force for eight consecutive days and the power reserve indicator is on the back of the movement, so as to keep the design of the dial as minimalist as possible.

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Prominent among the functions of the Luminor 1950 Chrono Monopulsante Left-Handed 8 Days Titanio is the chronograph, which has a single push-piece to operate the starting, stopping and zeroing of the time interval being measured. Fitted with a column wheel, a component used in the most sophisticated movements because it provides the greatest accuracy, the chronograph also has a friction clutch, which avoids any uncertainty in the movement of the chronograph hand. The minutes counter at nine o’clock stands out immediately because the hand does not move continuously but in jumps: it clicks forward one position as each minute is recorded. The P.2004/9 calibre is also fitted with the device for zeroing the seconds hand, which stops and zeroes the small seconds hand instantly when the crown is pulled out. The hand will not start moving again until the winding crown is returned to its original position, thus enabling the watch to be synchronised to the exact second, for example with a time signal.

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The Luminor 1950 Chrono Monopulsante Left-Handed 8 Days Titanio (PAM00579) is supplied with a strap of natural leather and a second strap made of rubber, as well as the screwdriver for replacing the buckle and the special tool for changing the strap. The watch is water-resistant to 10 atmospheres (equivalent to a depth of about 100 metres).

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TECHINCAL SPECIFICATIONS

Reference: PAM00579

Movement: Hand-wound mechanical, Panerai P.2004/9 calibre,
executed entirely by Panerai, 13¾ lignes,
8.2 mm thick, 31 jewels, Glucydur® balance, 28,800 alternations/hour.
KIF Parechoc® anti-shock device.
Power reserve 8 days, 3 barrels.
Column wheel. 329 components.
Functions: Hours, minutes, small seconds, power reserve indicator on the back,
seconds reset, single-button chronograph with two counters.
Case: Diameter 47 mm, brushed titanium.
Brushed titanium button for the chronograph function at 2 o’clock.
Bezel: Polished titanium.
Back: See-through sapphire crystal.
Device protecting the crown: (protected as a trademark) Brushed titanium.
Dial: Brown with luminous Arabic numerals and hour markers.
Minute counter at 9 o’clock. Seconds at 3 o’clock, central chronograph hand.
Crystal: Sapphire, formed of corundum, 2 mm thick. Anti-reflective coating.
Water-resistance: 10 bar (~ 100 metres).
Strap: PANERAI personalised leather strap and trapezoidal brushed titanium buckle.
Supplied with a second interchangeable strap, a tool for changing the strap and a steel screwdriver.


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HUBLOT – BIG BANG Unico "ALL BLACK" Chronograph















HUBLOT
BIG BANG Unico "ALL BLACK" Chronograph Limited Edition NEW

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The BIG BANG UNICO "ALL BLACK" has finally arrived !


Totally black, totally matt and totally faithful to Hublot's signature concept, it is the perfect fusion between the 100% manufacture movement and the iconic Big Bang design.

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And it's finally here. Launched last year, the hotly anticipated Big Bang Unico is now available in an All Black version as a limited edition of just 500 numbered pieces, in line with all of Hublot's All Black series.

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The watch is a perfect fusion of Hublot's very own unique "invisible visibility" concept, the iconic Big Bang design and the in-house movement - the UNICO, a chronograph movement with a column wheel and double clutch visible on the dial side, completely designed, developed and produced in the Hublot manufacture workshops.

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The design of the Big Bang Unico features a powerful 45.5 mm diameter case for a stylish mechanical look, and a bezel secured by 6 H-shaped screws with a new, subtle and more technical design (the head of each screw is now in relief, allowing the application of alternating polished and matt finishes). A notable feature is the design of the crown, which is screw-down with overmoulded rubber and decorated on the end with the famous Hublot screw "H". For the very first time since the creation of the Big Bang in 2005, the push-buttons are round. Each one is protected by a push-button guard integrated in the middle and finished like an engine piston.

 The sharp angles and intelligent sandwich system have been retained in the case design, but the strap attachment has been optimised: it features the now famous "One click" system which allows the wearer to switch between a wide choice of straps - each watch is supplied with a structured and ribbed natural rubber strap (also new) which perfectly matches the endpieces of the middle.

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Finally, the movement is revealed thanks to a skeleton dial featuring the famous indexes and Arabic numerals, redesigned to give them more volume (and hollowed out and filled with black SuperLuminova™ on the All Black version), as well as two counters "encircled" by a polished ring, one for the minutes positioned at 3 o'clock and the other at 9 o'clock for the small second; the date window is positioned at 3 o'clock. The hands have also been reworked, facetted on two levels and filled with black Superluminova™.


The UNICO manufacture movement is the brand's signature chronograph movement. And that is why it was chosen. It has been entirely designed, developed, machined and assembled by micro-mechanics, engineers and watchmakers at Hublot.

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This Flyback chronograph (a practical solution enabling instant restarting of the chronograph) is unique in the watchmaking industry, and features two push-buttons and a date indication. It is distinguished by the position of its mechanism with a horizontal double clutch and the famous "column wheel" visible on the dial side.

HUBLOTBIG BANG Unico "Carbon" Chronograph
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Technical specifications

Reference 411.QX.1170.RX
Case
Carbon Fiber
Bezel
Carbon Fiber and Anodized Black Aluminium Lower
Bezel with 6 H-shaped Titanium Screws
Dial
Mat Black Dial and Rhodium-plated Upper Layer
Indexes with White Luminescent Satin-fi nished and
Microblasted Rhodium-plated Hands with White Luminescent
Movement
UNICO Manufacture Self-winding Chronograph
Flyback Movement with Column Wheel
Strap material
Black PVD Titanium with Carbon Insert Deployant
Buckle Clasp


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HUBLOTBIG BANG Unico "ALL BLACK" Chronograph
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Technical specifications

Reference 411.CI.1110.RX
Case
Microblasted Black Ceramic
Bezel
Microblasted Black Ceramic and Anodized Black
Aluminium Lower Bezel with 6 H-shaped Black PVD
Titanium Screws
Dial
Mat Black Dial and Black-plated Upper Layer Indexes with Black Luminescent Satin-fi nished and Microblasted Black-plated Hands with Black Luminescent
Movement
UNICO Manufacture Self-winding Chronograph
Flyback Movement with Column Wheel
Strap material
Black PVD Titanium with Black Ceramic Insert
Deployant Buckle Clasp

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Its development required a completely original approach and thinking outside the box: the horizontal double clutch with integrated column wheel on the dial side for the central 60-second counter and the small 60-minute counter positioned at 3 o'clock. This simplification means greater reliability and flexibility in the chronograph's START STOP RESET functions, as well as enhanced function visibility for the wearer.

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The pallet fork and escapement wheel are fixed to a removable platform and are made from silicon, whose lightness provides a guarantee of performance. The movement's 330 components benefit from high precision and reliability, with several of them produced using LIGA technology.

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Its frequency of 4hz/28,800 vibrations per hour and its immaculate finish are also a guarantee of high chronometric quality. Finally, its automated production, which includes automation of the machining, stone fitting, oiling and numerous assembly operations also ensures consistent, controlled quality.
Its power reserve is around 72 hours.
In short, the entire piece has been conceived and designed to reflect Hublot's pure DNA: sport, performance and technology. No useless gadgets. The design is stylish, practical and rational.

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