IWC – PORTUGIESER Hand-Wound Tourbillon Day & Night Armor Gold

 

IWC Schaffhausen – PORTUGIESER Hand-Wound Tourbillon Day & Night Black Dial 42.4 mm Armor Gold® 2024  

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 THE IWC SCHAFFHAUSEN PORTUGIESER HAND-WOUND TOURBILLON WITH A GLOBE-SHAPED DAY AND NIGHT INDICATION

Schaffhausen/Geneva, 9^th April 2024: IWC Schaffhausen introduces the Portugieser Hand-Wound Tourbillon Day & Night at Watches and Wonders Geneva. It combines an 18-carat Armor Gold^® case with an Obsidian lacquered dial and gold-plated hands and gold appliques. The flying minute tourbillon at 6 o’clock consists of 56 parts and weighs only 0.675 grams. Another highlight is the innovative day and night display, which shows the eternal cycle of day and night with the help of a small sphere rotating around its axis. The globe-shaped day and night indicator is visible both from the dial and the movement side. The hand-wound IWC-manufactured 81925 calibre with gold-plated components can be admired through the sapphire glass case back.

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The Portugieser stands out not only because of its pure and timeless design. The collection is also a testament to IWC Schaffhausen’s comprehensive expertise in fine watchmaking. Over the years, the Swiss luxury watch manufacturer has presented many Portugieser watches with high complications, ranging from different versions of its perpetual calendar and tourbillons to the astronomical displays of the Portugieser Sidérale Scafusia – to this day the most complicated watch ever made by IWC Schaffhausen. With its unique engineering approach to fine watchmaking, IWC develops complications that are ingenious, highly robust and reliable, and technically elegant in their design. 

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Adding to its legacy of high complications, IWC presents the Portugieser Hand-Wound Tourbillon Day & Night (Ref. IW545901) with a polished and brushed 18-carat Armor Gold^® case, gold-plated hands, and gold appliques. Thanks to its improved microstructure, Armor Gold^® is significantly harder and more wear resistant than conventional 5N gold. 

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The Obsidian black and highly polished dial radiates a tremendous depth and creates a beautiful contrast. The watch is fitted with a finely crafted curved black alligator leather strap from Santoni, a renowned Italian manufacturer of luxury shoes and leather accessories. 

 

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The flying minute tourbillon at 6 o’clock is one of the most sophisticated complications in watchmaking. Assembling and finetuning this delicate mechanism is a task reserved for the most experienced master watchmakers at IWC Schaffhausen. 

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The tourbillon places the balance wheel and pallet lever inside a small cage that rotates around its axis once every minute. This constant rotation reduces the influence of gravity on the oscillating system of the watch, thereby increasing its accuracy. As the tourbillon cage is stopped and accelerated several times per second, its total weight must be as low as possible. Although the mechanism consists of 56 individual parts, it only weighs 0.675 grams in total. The pallet lever and escape wheel are made of silicon and treated with a special diamond coating. 

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This Diamond Shell^® technology reduces friction and improves the flow of energy in the movement, contributing to the high power reserve of 84 hours. Thanks to the integrated tourbillon stop, the mechanism can be brought to a complete stop and the watch set with down-to-the-second accuracy.

A UNIQUE WAY TO SHOW THE ENDLESS CYCLE OF DAY AND NIGHT 

Another highlight can be found at 9 o’clock: the 24-hour indication in the shape of a small planet. The globe has a dark and a bright side and rotates around its axis once every 24 hours, offering a captivating visualisation of whether it is currently day or night. The idea for this special day and night concept came from former watchmaker trainee Loris Spitzer and is a testament to the success of IWC’s trainee program and the culture of curiosity and innovation that the company fosters. 

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The day and night indication is integrated into the newly developed IWCmanufactured 81925 calibre. As the movement is handwound and has no oscillating mass, the small globe is visible from the front and back. The gold-plated base plate is partly skeletonised to offer an unimpeded view of the barrel and other components. 

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The movement is elaborately finished with circular Geneva stripes and can be admired through the sapphire glass case back.

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TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS

Model:   PORTUGIESER Hand-Wound Tourbillon Day & Night  

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 Ref. IW545901 

FEATURES

• Mechanical movement
  – Flying hacking minute tourbillon at 6 o’clock
  – Day & Night indication in the shape of a globe at 9 o’clock
  – See-through sapphire glass back
  

MOVEMENT
IWC-manufactured  calibre 81925
Frequency:    28,800 A/h | 4 Hz
Jewels:    22
Power reserve:   84 h
195 Components
Winding:    Manual-winding
WATCH
Materials: 18 ct Armor Gold®
Diameter:    42.40 mm
Height:    10.80 mm
Water-resistant:    6 bar 
DIAL
Obsidian Black
Flying hacking minute tourbillon at 6 o’clock
Day & Night indication in the shape of a globe at 9 o’clock
Glass:  Sapphire, arched edge, antireflective coating on both sides
STRAP
Black alligator leather strap by Santoni
Distance between horns: 22.0 MM
Gold folding clasp

🔴 Public price:   CHF 80'000 /87,500 EUR / $ 79,300 💰

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Further Information
IWC Schaffhausen Baumgartenstrasse 15 · CH-8201 Schaffhausen
Phone +41 (0)52 235 75 65 · Fax +41 (0)52 235 75 01 · press@iwc.com ·

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Press releases - 2024
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IWC Schaffhausen
Baumgartenstrasse 15 ·
CH-8201 Schaffhausen
Phone +41 (0)52 235 75 65 ·
Fax +41 (0)52 235 75 01 ·
Mobile  +41 (0)79 957 72 52
E-mail  info@iwc.com
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De Bethune – DB28xs Purple Rain Titanium

 

De Bethune – CURRENT DB28XS ‘Purple Rain’ Titanium  2024

Mastering the art of thermal oxidation of metals, De Bethune continues to explore all the color nuances resulting from the heat released by the chemical reactions of heated titanium.

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⦁    In the vast spectrum of colors, purple elegantly precedes blue, offering a masterful transition between warm and cool tones. It is a color that embodies mystery, imagination, and creativity, capturing the essence of darkness and depth while evoking a certain aura ofroyalty and splendor.]

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In the workshops of De Bethune in l’Auberson, particles become luminous, metals - and titanium here in particular - emit visible light... matter oxidizes, properties change, surfaces transform, and unprecedented natural colors appear.

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 Denis Flageollet, Master Watchmaker and Founder of De Bethune, along with his team initially began working on the tone of blue. A color linked to the notion of infinity and harmony, natural blue is one of the major research fields at De Bethune. It has since become the unique signature of the house.

Like a luminous vibration, each color offers a different type of energy

De Bethune unveils its new chromatic palette with the launch of the DB28xs Purple Rain, a bold evolution! Indeed, before reaching blue, purple unfurls its chromatic richness, merging nuances of red and blue in a harmonious ballet.

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It's a color that has inspired artists, poets, and visionaries for centuries, often symbolizing passion, spirituality, and innovation. In the palette of heated titanium colors, purple thus paves the way for the emergence of blue, gradually introducing cool nuances while retaining a touch of warmth and depth. This subtle transition creates a harmonious link between the different shades, offering a smooth continuity in visual perception.

DB28xs

Placing innovation at the heart of the process. Integrating creativity. Pushing the boundaries of innovation. Thinking outside the box. Not repeating, but inventing, ingeniously considering precision, reliability, readability, and comfort.

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The DB28xs model is not simply a watch aesthetically smaller. It is a watch that opened a new chapter at De Bethune. A model that marked the history of the brand, as it is another step in the initiatory journey that has animated Denis Flageollet for 20 years. If the DB28 is an iconic watch of De Bethune, this new version is all the more remarkable for the particular sense it carries within it. With a significantly smaller diameter than previous models (39mm), while retaining the unique and characteristic design of De Bethune, the DB28xs is a small miracle. Thanks to the technology required to carry out the project. But above all, by the virtuosity of De Bethune in transcending the spirit of the Enlightenment into the world of 21st-century wristwatches, by reformulating exceptional craftsmanship and offering unprecedented aesthetic creation. There is no question of reproducing the past identically. 

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But rather: how to evoke new emotions in the face of exceptional objects? Denis Flageollet's intention, Master Watchmaker and Founder of De Bethune, is pure. He observes tradition from an innovative perspective and works to make contemporary mechanical watches a cultural incarnation of time measurement on our wrist.

For a beautiful object to be born somewhere, mastery must have reached a certain level of maturity.

If the DB28xs was born of an extraordinary feat, successfully transposing the majestic feeling and grand emotion exuded by the great clocks of the Age of Enlightenment with their scientific instruments, onto a simple wrist, solely through the grace of micromechanics and the delicate aesthetics of a small watch, it opens up the deep innermost thoughts of its creator. 

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Thus, beneath the deceptive appearance of simple miniaturization, the uniqueness of this watch and its design go far beyond its smaller size and its functioning.

Between art and science

For the geniuses of the Age of Enlightenment, the goal was to create scientific instruments whose beauty emanated from their function, mechanical simplicity, and sobriety. Then, the powerful elevated them into true works of art, enlisting the best craftsmen of their time, such as cabinetmakers, bronzers, and enamelers like Boulle, Caffieri, or Coteau. The success of the DB28xs Purple Rain and the DB28xs Starry Seas demonstrates that Denis Flageollet's teams are fully imbued with the spirit of De Bethune that stems from this culture. 

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The concept of perpetual evolution in their work and thus their constant self-questioning, relying both on mastery of ancestral craftsmanship and new technologies. This incessant movement is the keystone of the manufacture, which constantly cultivates this mindset. "There is no point in working if not to progress, and the only way to achieve this is to continually question oneself. Continuously rethink and reconsider the work, evolving it by modifying an element, a process, a technique, and sometimes making tiny, often imperceptible improvements," commented Denis Flageollet.

A lighter, more impact-resistant DB28

For centuries, watchmakers have shielded mechanisms from external influences within towers, tables, and dials. As the quest for precision evolved, so did the desire to wear these timepieces. Adapting this chronometric precision to various and often extreme wearing conditions, including resistance to shocks, accelerations, and magnetic fields, requires cutting-edge research. The reduced size of this watch is part of this adaptation process. The caliber DB2005 has been adjusted to this miniaturization without compromising chronometric quality. Moreover, the increased lightness of the watch enhances its efficiency in case of shocks and accelerations.

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Aesthetically, the choice of blue color was not merely for visual attributes; its presence within De Bethune mechanisms holds genuine technical legitimacy. Initially seeking to solve technical problems of stability and chronometry during the development of new De Bethune balances, Denis Flageollet created a novel oscillator combining the soft metallic white hue of palladium with the vibrant blue of titanium. Consequently, the natural blue color became one of the brand's signatures, with its reflections on different materials and finishes allowing for an infinite and refined play of shades.

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Today, an intriguing evolution unfolds as De Bethune explores the chromatic spectrum and boldly unveils a new enchanting facet: purple. Continuing the work of the great master watchmakers of the 18th century in their quest for perfect time measurement, coupled with a sense of absolute aesthetics, De Bethune utilizes the most modern scientific and technological discoveries. The efforts of De Bethune teams converge to invent unique, innovative, and high-performance solutions. The principle remains the same for over 20 years: to create timepieces that respect horological tradition while integrating mechanical, technical, and aesthetic innovations of our time.

A unique splendor and magnetic presence

Through this mastery of purple and the natural oxidation of titanium, De Bethune does not simply create watches, but timeless works of art. Each piece reflects the perfect marriage between horological tradition and contemporary innovation, captivating watch enthusiasts.

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De Bethune, a true color alchemist, invites us to delve into a world of beauty and sophistication, where purple and blueing become symbols of refinement and horological excellence.

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TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS

Collection  CURRENT

Name:  DB28 XS Purple Rain Titanium

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Reference: DB28XsPR 

Function: Hours, Minutes
Movement
Caliber DB2005
Type: Mechanical hand-wound movement
Adjustment: Winding and setting the time by means of the crown (2 positions)
Technical features of calibre DB2005
Number of parts: 160
Jewelling: 27 jewels
Diameter: 30 mm
Power reserve: 6 days, ensured by a self-regulating twin barrel – De Bethune Innovation (2004)
Specificities: Titanium balance with white gold inserts, optimised for temperature differences and air penetration – De Bethune Patent (2016)
"De Bethune" balance-spring with flat terminal curve De Bethune Patent (2006)
Silicon escape wheel
Triple pare-chute shock-absorbing system De Bethune Innovation (2005)
Frequency: 28,800 vibrations/hour
Adornment: Hand-crafted finishing and decoration Display
Case and strap
Display: Polished titanium hands
Dial:
Purple titanium plate hours and minutes ring with transferred Arabic numerals
Random guilloché purple titanium dial (world’s first)
Starry sky with white gold stars
Case material: Purple polished grade 5 titanium
Case diameter: 38.7 mm
Case thickness: 7.4 mm
Lugs: Purple polished grade 5 titanium floating lugs – De Bethune Patent
(2006)
Crystal: Sapphire (1,800 Vickers hardness) with double anti-reflective coating
Caseback: Sapphire (1,800 Vickers hardness) with double anti-reflective coating
Engraved ring circular satin-finish titanium
Purple titanium plate with “microlight” decoration
Water resistance: 3 ATM
Strap: Extra-supple alligator leather with alligator lining / Canvas
Buckle: Purple grade 5 titanium buckle and pin

🔴Price: 407,830 EUR / US $ 297,750 💰 

#debethune #watch #watchmaking #db28xspurplerain #purplerain #newlaunch #purplewatch

 

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Press release -- Geneva 2024
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De Bethune Geneva Office 
25 Grand-Rue 1204 Geneva
Switzerland
Tel: +41 22 310 22 71
Fax: +41 22 310 33 40
Contact: mailto:press@debethune.com

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