Tuesday, January 23, 2024

BREGUET – Classique 5345 & 7145 DRAGON Special Edition

 

BREGUETCLASSIQUE 5345 Double Tourbillon DRAGON 46 Platinum CLASSIQUE 7145 DRAGON Eight-Piece Numbered 40 Gold Special Edition 2024

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Breguet pays tribute to the emblematic Year of the Dragon with the unveiling of two new watches created in highest standards by its in-house expertise.

Classique 5345 & 7145
Lunar New Year 2024

A symbol of power, courage, nobility, tenacity and success, the dragon is regarded in Chinese culture as a supernatural creature with many talents... In its honour, the Manufacture has dedicated all of its skills into creating two exceptional timepieces.

 Technical skills meet savoir faire

To counter the effects of gravity on the watch movements’ regularity, Abraham-Louis Breguet launched the tourbillon on 26 June 1801 and this horological invention has been a ceaseless source of fascination ever since. Over time, different variations have appeared in the brand's collections, culminating in the unveiling of the first double tourbillon in 2006: a unique interpretation in which two tourbillons connected to a differential form, an integral part of the time display. 

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The rotating central plate on which the two tourbillons are mounted sets into rotation the hours hand which serves as the upper bridge for one of the tourbillons and its extension as a bridge for the second. Coupled by means of differential gears determining the mean rate and driving the rotation of the entire mechanism, the two tourbillons are nevertheless independent of each other, each making one turn per minute via its own gear train and barrel.

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This fascinating mechanism is brought to life by 749-component Calibre 588N1, a hand-wound movement with a 60-hour power reserve and a 2.5 Hz frequency. The full scope of Breguet's expertise can also be admired through the sapphire crystal caseback. The allegorical decoration featuring a blend of guilloché and engraving required great dexterity on the part of the Manufacture's artisans.

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These two centuries-old arts are perpetuated at the Manufacture Horlogère nestling in the heart of the Vallée de Joux. The guilloché workshop is equipped with more than 30 guilloché lathes, some of which date back several hundred years. These are the machines that work the magic, deftly guided by the expert touch of the craftspeople who create different types of motifs by hand.

Drawing on their many years of experience, the engravers working nearby use a variety of techniques to create the varied motifs found on these timepieces. With the exception of binocular microscopes, the tools and techniques are the same as they were centuries ago.

A timepiece with many details 

Today, the brand is highlighting a version in which a dragon twirls between the two tourbillons. The entirely hand-engraved gold dragon secured to the two barrel bridges is depicted clutching a pearl made of mother-of-pearl in its talons. Legend has it that this pearl possesses the sacred essence that gives the dragon its power. It is also said to represent sagacity. The creature symbolises the emperor as being one who rules his empire with wisdom.

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The rhodium-plated gold rotating plate is hand-guilloché with a fan motif. The gold bridge below the mainplate features an anthracite galvanic treatment and guilloché-work with a Clous de Paris hobnail motif. 

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Luxury lies in the details: the Roman numerals and minutes track on the sapphire hour-circle are first laser-engraved and then coated with black varnish. The flange is engraved with 12 Roman numeral hour-markers, which are then filled with black varnish and represent the shadow of the numerals on the chapter ring. Moreover, Breguet offers each client a one-of-a-kind timepiece, as the dragon's shape and colour can be personalised as desired. The colour of the Roman numerals, the hands and the strap can also be chosen from a range of Breguet designs.

Dial adorned with artistic crafts

The full range of skills cultivated by Breguet's craftspeople is visible in this new creation. Firstly, the crimson red dial featuring different shades between the chapter ring and the centre is produced using a technique rarely exercised today: Grand Feu enamelling. 

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This age-old skill requires great virtuosity to master the vast palette of colours and create subtle and elegant nuances. To obtain this texture, the artisan applies a mixture of silica and oxides to the watch face. The dial is then fired several times in a very high-temperature kiln, where the enamel ignites and melts in contact with the heat. This is a very delicate operation, during which the dial could break at any time.

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The dragon standing proudly on the dial is an entirely hand-engraved rose gold applique. The fantasy creature with its majestic posture keeps a constantly watchful eye on its pearl, made of natural white mother-of-pearl. The Roman numerals, minutes track and clouds are in a golden powder-pink hue. The chapter ring is punctuated by 12 discreet round gold hour-markers. Finally, the time is indicated by Breguet's signature open-tipped hands.

A highly refined mechanism

Calibre 502.3 beats inside a 40 mm-diameter rose gold case which is one of Breguet’s thinnest at just 2.40 mm thick. The 162 components of this self-winding movement endow the timepiece with a 45-hour power reserve. It is equipped with a balance-spring and pallet-lever in silicon. 

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The latter material has many properties: in addition to being resistant to corrosion and wear, it is insensitive to the influence of magnetic fields and enhances the precision of the timepiece. The gold oscillating weight that is hand-guilloché with a circular barleycorn motif can be admired through the sapphire crystal caseback.

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TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS

Collection  CLASSIQUE

Model:  CLASSIQUE Double Tourbillon 5345 DRAGON 46 Platinum

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 Reference 5345PT/1S/9XU 05

Case
Round platinum case with finely fluted caseband
Sapphire-crystal caseback.
Diameter 46 mm. Thickness: 16.8 mm.
Rounded welded lugs with screw bars
Water-resistant to 3bar (30 meters).
Dial
Chapter ring on a sapphire disc
Hands: open-tipped Breguet hands
Individually numbered and signed Breguet.
Hours chapter with Roman numerals.
Open-tipped Breguet minutes hand in black steel.
Black-steel hours hand extending along the bar supporting the two tourbillons.
Movement
Hand-wound, double rotating tourbillon, hand-engraved gold dragon, hand-
guilloché plate, engraved allegorical motif on the back of the movement
Numbered and signed Breguet. Caliber 588N1.
Two tourbillons mounted on a revolving main plate hand-engraved on a rose engine.
The two regulating organs are coupled to a differential that determines the average rate.
Complete revolution of the main plate in 12 hours.
60-hour power reserve. 16½ lignes. 81 jewels. 749 components.
Breguet balance springs. Frequency 2.5 hertz.
Monometallic balance wheels with gold screws.
Adjusted in 6 positions.
On the reverse side of the movement, an engraving carried out by hand depicts the building on Quai de l’Horloge in Paris.
Functions: hours, minutes 
Strap
Black alligator leather strap
Triple folding clasp in platinum.

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TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS

Collection  CLASSIQUE

Model:  CLASSIQUE 7145 DRAGON Eight-piece numbered 40 Rose Gold

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 Reference 7145BR/25/9WU 05

Case
18K rose gold case
Dimensions: 40 mm
Thickness: 6.9 mm
Sapphire caseback
Water resistance: 3 bar (30 m)
Dial
Red Grand Feu enamel with hand-engraved gold applique depicting a dragon
Hands: open-tipped Breguet hands
Functions: hours, minutes
Movement
Self-winding
Calibre: 502.3
Frequency: 3 Hz
 
162 components
Power reserve: 45 hours
Escapement: flat balance-spring and pallet-lever in silicon
Strap
Chestnut brown alligator leather strap
with black inter-scale areas


Available  in Breguet Boutique around the world

#Breguet
#breguetTradition
#BreguetTourbillon #Double
Tourbillon
#breguet5345 #breguet7145
#myBreguet
#myBreguetmoment


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Press release - 2024
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Monday, January 22, 2024

OMEGA – Speedmaster Dark Side of the Moon Apollo 8 Black Ceramic


OMEGASpeedmaster Chronograph Dark Side of the MoonApollo 8 Black Ceramic - 2024

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OMEGA orbits the Apollo 8 story with a new Dark Side of the Moon

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In 1968, history was made when Apollo 8 became the first human flight to ever orbit the Moon. Aboard that pioneering mission, each astronaut was equipped with an OMEGA Speedmaster – a tool that was relied upon throughout NASA’s lunar campaign. This year, OMEGA pays tribute to the story with a new Speedmaster Dark Side of the Moon – created with state-of-the art technology, a rich palette of materials, and masterful expertise.

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At OMEGA, the first Speedmaster Dark Side of the Moon Apollo 8 timepiece was released in 2018, marking the 50th anniversary of the mission. This time, the brand has returned to its watchmaking launchpad, elevating the same design with an even finer level of detailing and refinement.

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SPEEDMASTER Dark Side of the Moon Apollo 8 - 2018

Creating a unique aesthetic throughout the design, the watch’s Calibre 3869 features a laser-ablated Moon relief on the blackened main plate and bridges. Just like the Moon, this movement reveals two different sides. 

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The dial-side represents our view of the lunar surface, as seen from Earth, while the back of the watch shows the dark side that only astronauts get to see. This new update has enhanced the Moon’s definition, thanks to laser engraving and contrasting surfaces. 

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The features are clearly pronounced and sit beautifully alongside the light grey coated wheels and dark grey gold coated balance wheel.

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Furthermore, the manual-winding Calibre 3869 has achieved the Co-Axial Master Chronometer standard, providing customers with the Swiss industry’s highest level of precision, chronometric performance, and magnetic resistance.

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The Moon-decorated movement can be seen through the watch’s skeletonized dial, which is crafted from black anodized aluminium. Yet the journey doesn’t end there. When creating the 44.25 mm case, the polished bezel, and the caseback, OMEGA used separate pieces of black ceramic – while also filling the tachymeter scale with bright white “Grand Feu” enamel.

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The central chronograph seconds hand is varnished yellow, a colour theme that continues on the watch’s perforated strap – which is made from black rubber with a yellow interior.

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Another new touch is the patent pending small-seconds hand at 9 o’clock. This has been engineered from Grade 5 Titanium and shaped like NASA’s famous Saturn V rocket. The powerful 3D structure has been obtained by laser turning, while the colours are achieved with white varnish, ablation, and laser blackening. A small yet inspiring detail that celebrates the success of the Apollo program.

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On the caseback, a series of engravings has been inscribed, including “WE’LL SEE YOU ON THE OTHER SIDE” – the final words spoken to ground control by Command Module Pilot Jim Lovell, just before the Apollo 8 mission disappeared to the far side of the Moon, and out of radio contact, for the very first time.

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The Moon’s distant surface has always been a source of mystery and curiosity. To wear this watch is to make an authentic connection with our lunar neighbour, as well as OMEGA’s own connection to space exploration. 

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As the world now looks further ahead to the possibilities of the future, the Apollo 8 mission stands as a reminder of what shared human power can achieve.

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Technical Specifications

Collection: Speedmaster

Model:  Speedmaster Dark Side of the Moon Apollo 8 Chronograph 44.25 mm
Black ceramic on rubber strap

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Reference:   310.92.44.50.01.001

Case
Black zirconium oxide ceramic case, polished and brushed
Lug‑to‑lug Open Case  50.0 mm
Thickness    13.00 mm
Case diameter    44.25 mm

Black ceramic bezel, engraved with tachymeter in Super-LumiNova and varnish
Crystal: Scratch‑resistant sapphire crystal with anti‑reflective treatment on both sides
Between lugs: 21 mm 
Water resistance: 5 bar (50 metres / 167 feet) 
Dial
No dial architecture. Colour: Black
Main plate of the movement visible with carbon effect
Openworked inner flange in black with applied indexes for the hours, with Super-LumiNova
Openworked module for the sub-counters
Blackened hands with Super-LumiNovan, red accents on sub-counter and seconds hand
Total product weight (approx.)  99 g
Movement
Omega Calibre 3869, Type  Manual‑winding 

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Hand-wound chronograph, cam-operated
Specific decoration by laser ablation (honeycomb effect and carbon texture)
A unique version of the calibre which equipped the famous and contemporary Speedmaster Moonwatch.
Frequency: 3Hz (21’600/H)
Power reserve: 50 hours
26 jewels.
Functions
Hours, minutes, small seconds,
chronograph with 30-minute and 12-hour counters
Tachymeter
Strap
Color   Black ‑ Yellow
Type    Rubber strap
Surface   Rubber
Underside    Rubber
Buckle type   Foldover clasp
Buckle material   Ceramic

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Availability: Special wooden presentation BOX

🔴 Price : RRP  € 11’995 / 14.300 USD 💰 (excl. taxes)


All OMEGA timepieces have a 5-year warranty.

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Press releases - 2024
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