De Bethune – DB28XP Kind Of Blue Tourbillon Sapphire Edition

De Bethune – CURRENT DB28XP ‘Kind Of Blue’ Tourbillon Sapphire Titanium Limited Edition 2023

Hong Kong, December 1st, 2023 – Currently on a tour across Asia to engage with passionate collectors of the brand and explore its rich history and culture, Denis Flageollet, the founder and master watchmaker of De Bethune, has chosen to unveil the new DB28XP Kind of Blue Tourbillon Sapphire in Hong Kong. 

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This special timepiece, he believes, will resonate with a market attuned to the vibrations of such artifacts and the energy they exude.

A Natural Evolution of Excellence

The DB28XP Kind of Blue Tourbillon Sapphire represents the seamless evolution of two iconic models from De Bethune: the DB28XP and the DB28 Kind of Blue Tourbillon. It encapsulates the best of both worlds by merging the sleek design and refinement of the DB28XP with a distinctly blue aesthetic inspired by the DB28 Kind of Blue Tourbillon, a hallmark of the Manufacture’s signature style.

A Captivating Dial

This is a realm where layers of interpretation, textures, and the interplay of light with shadows and reflections take centre stage. Crafted from blued titanium, the watch unveils an architectural fusion of space, time, and light at first glance. Its deep and luminous blue hue is achieved through the natural oxidation of the material, transforming each timepiece into a unique work of art.

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The dial, entirely crafted in Microlight, breathes new life into and modernizes the traditional guilloché technique. Across its expansive flat surface, this method gains newfound significance, reinforcing its structure. By playing with shadow and light, it introduces depth, resulting in a more structured and dynamic architectural outcome. The overall effect becomes distinctly contemporary.

Ultra-Thin Mastery by De Bethune

De Bethune embarked on a groundbreaking journey into the realm of ultra-thin timepieces in 2020 with the launch of the DB28XP, celebrating two decades of mechanical and aesthetic exploration. In his pursuit of an ultra-thin watch, Denis Flageollet conceived it as both a technical and aesthetic challenge—an intricate dance between delicacy and complexity, an adventure demanding precision and a harmonious interplay between design and constraints.

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As if destined, the DB28XP has evolved into an embodiment of beauty, an elegance that epitomizes simplicity even in its most absolute form. Today, it stands as an ideal representation of refined aesthetics and technical finesse.

The Chronometric Expertise of De Bethune

The manually winding DB2009v4 movement features the distinctive De Bethune balance wheel, visible through the dial via a 6 o’clock opening. It is the outcome of De Bethune’s ongoing physical and mathematical approach to enhancing its functionality. This balance wheel incorporates the latest advancements—modest in diameter, crafted from titanium, and fitted with small white gold weights positioned externally, providing it with exceptional inertia, reliability, and remarkable regulating quality.

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Equipped with the renowned De Bethune hairspring, a delicate spring considered the soul of the mechanical watch, it has been meticulously designed to maintain its center of gravity precisely at the midpoint. This is achieved through a flat curve fixed externally to the hairspring. Variations in the thickness of the blade contribute to nearly perfect concentric development, offering numerous advantages, including reduced height, improved concentricity quality, finer adjustment of the pallet, eliminating the need for pins, and the curve’s shape acting as a shock absorber.

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Furthermore, the internal structure of the material remains intact, having been neither stressed nor bent. Through these proven and continually evolving enhancements, De Bethune has increased the power reserve efficiency by +20%, extending it to a total of 5 days. This achievement is visible through the sapphire glass case back, allowing connoisseurs to marvel at the complexity and beauty of each component.

The De Bethune Tourbillon: Why So Small, So Light, So Fast?

In the expansive array of complications and functions that De Bethune has mastered, the tourbillon has often taken a leading role. A tourbillon equippd with an extraordinarily lightweight cage (0.18 gr., the lightest ever created) rotating every thirty seconds, comprising a total of 63 components (the lightest of which weighs less than 0.0001 gram!).

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Today, a wrist-worn watch experiences significantly more “torture” than a pocket watch. Rapid and erratic wrist movements impose kinetic brutality on watch mechanics, warranting careful consideration. Just as Breguet invented the tourbillon to counteract the effects of Earth’s gravity and enhance the precision of marine watches, De Bethune sought ways to optimize it for today’s wristwatches.

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The equation? To be more effective on a wrist subjected to quick and erratic movements, the tourbillon must have a higher frequency and a faster rotation speed.

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By creating a tourbillon in titanium and silicon with a frequency of 36,000 vibrations/hour and an extraordinarily lightweight cage rotating every thirty seconds, describing the feat is easier  than achieving it. Much like an airborne insect, a true exoskeleton maintains the entire structure.

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Thus, the De Bethune tourbillon, so small, so light, so fast, simply fulfills its function better for contemporary watches. The futuristic shape of the tourbillon bridge symmetrically and perfectly supports the tourbillon on both sides, keeping it in its position.

Comfort and Innovation

True to the essence of all models in its collection, the DB28XP Kind of Blue Tourbillon Sapphire consistently surprises with the lightweight construction of its case. Crafted entirely from polished blued grade 5 titanium with a microlight case, embellished with sapphire rods and mounted on floating lugs that adapt to the size and various movements of the wrist—a patented De Bethune system. The case features a more contoured profile, following the natural lines of the wrist. The Microlight finish of the baseplate extends onto the sides, reaching the outer edge of the case—a meticulous undertaking that proves challenging in the absence of simple geometric elements.

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Completing the ensemble is an alligator leather strap with a titanium buckle, contributing to the practical and enjoyable wear of this timepiece.

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TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS

Collection  CURRENT

Name:  DB28 XP Kind of Blue Tourbillon Sapphire

 Reference: DB28XPTJB

🔰Limited edition of 10 pieces

Case
     Case material: Blued polished grade 5 titanium with “microlight” case middle set with baguette sapphire
    Diameter: 43 mm
    Thickness: 9.1 mm
    Lugs: Blued polished grade 5 titanium floating lugs – De Bethune Patent (2006)
    Crystal: Sapphire (1,800 Vickers hardness) with double anti-reflective coating
    Caseback: Screwed case back in blued grade 5 polished titanium that opens on a linear power reserve indicator
    Sapphire (1,800 Vickers hardness) with double anti-reflective coating
    Water-resistant to 30 meters (3 ATM)
Dial and hands
Display: Polished titanium hands
Dial: Titanium hour ring with blued microlight decoration and polished hour markers.
Blued grade 5 circular satin titanium minutes and seconds ring
Bridge cover on the barrel and triangular central bridge in grade 5 blued polished titanium with blued drawn chamfered contour.
Milky Way patterns produced by laser beam micro milling, gilded with 24-carat gold leaf
Movement
    Caliber DB2009v5
    Mechanical hand-wound movement
    Adjustment: Winding and setting the time by means means of the crown (2 positions)
    Diameter: 30 mm
    Number of parts: 380
    Number of jewels: 40
    Frequency: 36,000 vibrations per hour
    Power reserve: 5 days, ensured by a self-regulating twin barrel – De Bethune Innovation (2004)
    Adornment: Hand-crafted finishing and decoration 
 Function
Hours, Minutes, 30’’ indicator via the ultra-light De Bethune tourbillon cage at 6 o’clock, power reserve on the back
Specificities
    Titanium balance with white gold inserts, optimised for temperature differences and air penetration –
De Bethune Patent (2016)
"De Bethune" balance-spring with flat terminal curve De Bethune Patent (2006)
Silicon escape wheel
Ultra-light De Bethune 30’’ tourbillon in titanium De Bethune Innovation (2008)
Strap and buckle
 Strap: Extra-supple alligator leather with alligator lining
Buckle: Blued grade 5 titanium buckle and pin

🔰Limited edition of 10 pieces

🔴Price: 296,830 EUR / US $ 297,750 💰

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Press release -- Geneva 2023
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De Bethune Geneva Office 
25 Grand-Rue 1204 Geneva
Switzerland
Tel: +41 22 310 22 71
Fax: +41 22 310 33 40
Contact: mailto:press@debethune.com

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GREUBEL FORSEY – CONVEXE Balancier 3 Titanium 41.5 mm Edition

GREUBEL FORSEY – CONVEXE Balancier 3 Titanium  41.5 mm Limited Edition 2023

Greubel Forsey opens a new gateway into its world, the Balancier 3.

This timepiece joins the Convexe collection, offering a more refined look. Featuring a majestic arch bridge and crafted over multiple levels, the openworked titanium piece is available in either black or blue finish. Both more rebust and more affordable while reinforcing the high chronometric standards and finishes that are synonymous with the Atelier.

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Almost 20 years were required for Greubel Forsey to embark on this challenge to produce an entirely new, more accessible timepiece with its own unique identity. To achieve this, the Atelier needed to start from scratch. How do you create a timepiece with a comfortable diameter into which the Atelier Manufacture movement can fit? How can you make the piece more affordable when it still has to be 100% hand finished? The Balancier 3 answers all of these questions.

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First comes the style. From the outset, the piece is characterised by its three prominent bridges: the first of which houses the barrel, the second for the large balance wheel, and the third, and most striking of all, is attached to the seconds counter and supports the hour and minute hands.

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All these bridges feature Greubel Forsey’s signature hand finishes: a curved polished surface, polished bevels and hand-polished screws. Each bridge includes its share of sharp internal angles and a curved profile that make the hand finishes particularly complex—details that will certainly be appreciated by collectors.

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This design joins the Convexe collection. The Balancier 3 features the iconic case, even slimmer than before. Its lugs no longer have screws—a first for Greubel Forsey. The Convexe case is profiled on both the back and display sides, making it truly unique in fine watchmaking. Offering total comfort, the piece naturally follows the curvature of the wrist. On the dial side, the double curvature dips towards each end of the strap, creating the highly aesthetic volumes that the movement uses to deploy itself.

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Then, there's the movement. It imbues the timepiece with a dynamic, modern style and offers impeccable chronometry while still becoming Greubel Forsey's most affordable creation. To achieve this, Greubel Forsey once again called on the considerable expertise of its teams. 

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The idea was to create a simple, streamlined and contemporary design that allows you to admire the finish of each of the movement's components. With this in mind, the Atelier focuses on the technical nature of its timepieces: from the source energy to the escapement that drives it, the barrels and the large balance wheel. The essence of the mastery of time.

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The two series-coupled fast-rotating barrels (one turn in 3.2 hours) clearly visible and decorated with the unique rotating graphics design that is becoming a staple of the Convexe collection. Together, they provide a chronometric power reserve of 3 full days. 

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The timepiece will continue to beat for many more hours but perhaps not with the same precise accuracy that Greubel Forsey specifications. The power reserve is shown on the case back for the first time in the Convexe collection.

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On the opposite side, the large balance wheel – “Balancier”, which gives the timepiece its name, can be found between 4 and 6 o’clock. Conveniently integrated into the design, this Greubel Forsey variable-inertia balance is balanced thanks to its 6 gold mean-time screws. 

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It boasts the Atelier's signature large diameter of 12.6 mm, one of the most majestic in contemporary fine watchmaking. Its oscillations echo the small second display at 8 o’clock with its fixed indicator, where it's actually the disc underneath, satin-finished by hand, that rotates and marks the passing seconds.

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And finally, the finishing. The wide bridge supporting the hour and minute hands is the best illustration of this. With its curved, three-dimensional, openworked design, multiple levels, numerous sharp internal angles, and refined arm connecting with the small seconds, it is a true tour de force. Its extremely complex geometry is a perfect match for its hand finishing. 

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This process is reproduced, both sides on the barrel bridge and the balance wheel bridge, which are exquisitely hand-polished and convex like the case that houses them.

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The Balancier 3 is available in a 41,5 mm diameter in two black and blue versions limited to 88 pieces each, with a rubber strap or a Greubel Forsey titanium bracelet upon request.

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 TECHNICAL DETAILS 

Balancier 3 Titanium Limited edition

Hand-wound movement • Hours and minutes • small
seconds • power-reserve • Greubel Forsey balance wheel system

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Movement
Movement dimensions
• Overall diameter: 35.80 mm
• Thickness: 9.03 mm
Number of parts
• Movement: 282 parts
Number of jewels • 43
• Olived-domed jewels in gold chatons 
Chronometric power reserve • 72 hours
Barrels
• Two series-coupled fast-rotating barrels (1 turn in
3.2 hours), one of which is equipped with a slipping spring to avoid excess tension
• Relief-engraved text, circular-grained, black treatment
Balance wheel
• In-house variable-inertia with 6 gold mean-time screws (12.60 mm diameter)
Frequency • 21'600 vibrations/hour
Balance spring
• Phillips terminal curve
• Geneva-style stud
Bridges and main plate
• Titanium
• Frosted, polished bevelling and countersinks, black or blue treatment according to the version
• Multi-level, polished openworked arch bridge, polished bevelling and countersinks
Movement side
• Frosted bridges, polished edges and countersinks
• Gold plate with engraved limitation number, circular- grained, polished bevelling and countersinks, straight- grained flanks
Gearing
• Involute circle profile
Displays
• Hours and minutes, on suspended arch bridge
• Small seconds on disc
• Power reserve on a sector (movement side)

Exterior
Case
• Titanium with curved synthetic sapphire crystal
• Three-dimensional, variable geometry-shaped bezel, hand-polished with hand-finished straight graining
• Profiled lugs
• Transparent back with synthetic sapphire crystal
• Titanium security screws
• Raised engraving "Balancier 3" and "Greubel Forsey"
Case dimensions
• Caseband diameter: 41.50 mm
• Bezel diameter: 43.60 mm
• Case height: 13.35 mm
• Height on synthetic sapphire crystals: 13.55 mm
Water resistance of the case
• Water-resistant 5 atm - 50 m - 164 ft (standard NIHS 92-20/SN ISO 22810:2010)
Crown
• Titanium, polished and straight-grained, with GF logo
Dial side
• Three-dimensional, variable geometry hour-ring with engraved and lacquered minute-circle
• Three-dimensional, variable geometry hour indexes polished, with Super-Luminova
• Light alloy small seconds indicator, circular-grained
Hands
• Hours and minutes, curved profile, polished steel with Super-Luminova
• Small seconds, fixed red triangle
• Power-reserve, in polished steel, flat black polished head
Strap and clasp
• Non-animal material, rubber with texture in relief. titanium folding clasp, engraved GF logo
• On demand: 3-row metal bracelet in titanium, folding clasp with integrated fine adjustment, engraved GF logo

🔰 Limitation 
Limited Edition of 88 pieces.

🔴 Price : RRP   CHF 160’000💰 

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Press Release - 2023
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GREUBEL FORSEY SA
For further information: 
Communication Department 
press@greubelforsey.com – +41 79 194 2884
Eplatures-Grise -16 P.O. Box 670 
2301 La Chaux-de-Fonds - Switzerland
+41 32 925-4545
+41 32 925-4502
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