TUDOR – PELAGOS FXD Titanium Reference 25717N

TUDOR – PELAGOS FXD Titanium 42 mm Chronometer - 2023

PELAGOS FXD Titanium

TUDOR is launching the Black Bay Ceramic model, an extraordinary watch and symbol of the brand's technical expertise, with a case in matt black ceramic, a Manufacture Calibre and a Master Chronometer certification from METAS. 

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As early as the mid ‘50s, TUDOR diving watches were being tested and evaluated by a number of outfits inside the US Navy, and by 1958 they were officially adopted by the Navy and purchased for the purpose of issuing them to divers operating in various units. This Pelagos FXD model is the spiritual successor of those watches. The nomenclature hints at the background of the watch, with FXD referring to the incredibly robust FiXeD strap bars of the case. The model represents a modern, high-performance and robust take on the famed “Milsub” (short for Military Submariner) of yesteryear. 

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Visually, it’s most in line with a late ‘60s-era TUDOR Oyster Prince Submariner reference 7016; it incorporates elements from the US military specifications for diving watches, such as fixed spring bars, as well as details inspired by other generations of issued TUDORs, like pointed crown-guards typically found on early TUDOR Submariners.

KEY POINTS

1.    42mm satin-brushed titanium case with fixed strap bars, machined from a single block of titanium
2.    Unidirectional rotatable bezel in titanium with ceramic insert and 60-minute graduation filled with grade X1 Swiss Super-LumiNova® luminous material
3.    Matt black dial with applied hour markers filled with grade X1 Swiss Super-LumiNova® luminous material
4.    Manufacture Calibre MT5602, certified by the Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC) with a hairspring in silicon and a 70-hour power reserve
5.    “Snowflake” hands, one of the hallmarks of the TUDOR divers’ watches introduced in 1969, with grade X1 Swiss Super-LumiNova® luminous material filling
6.    One-piece fabric strap with self-gripping fastening system in forest green with red central thread and additional one-piece rubber strap with embossed fabric motif

TUDOR AND THE US NAVY

The US Navy issued TUDOR diving watches for decades starting in the latter years of the ‘50s. The watches were famously used by SEAL teams from their commissioning in 1962 all the way the late ‘80s. These robust instruments have also served sailors in all types of underwater roles, including UDTs, Seabees and Navy dive school instructors. 

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 The issued TUDOR Submariners have played a role in teaching the basics of scuba diving at the Underwater Swimmers School, all the way to aiding in underwater submarine maintenance at submarine bases in the US and abroad. Issued TUDOR watches also played a role in pioneering innovative underwater technologies under the surface of oceans across the globe.

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Throughout the decades, TUDOR has supported the US Navy as a supplier of issued watches. In the 1965 “First Edition” of the Underwater Demolition Team Handbook, a TUDOR Oyster Prince Submariner ref. 7928 is pictured next to the “Diving Watch” paragraph. The handbook was an essential piece of literature for new operators as they studied UDT operational procedures. Later, in 1973, the US Navy Diving manual lists the TUDOR Oyster Prince Submariner references 7016 and 7021 as “Navy-approved” diving watches. In 1974, the National Stock Number system was introduced to track the supply system of the US Department of Defense. From 1978, under code 6645-01-068-1088, a supply officer could purchase and issue a TUDOR Oyster Prince Submariner reference 9411, or later 76100, to an approved sailor or operator in need of a reliable Navy-approved dive watch. This specific supply catalog entry was only retired in 2004. 

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Watches issued to members of the military are typically engraved with specific inventory codes, but the US Navy-issued TUDOR watches didn’t follow this pattern. There was never a force-wide, consolidated marking system. Instead, the issued watches were either sterile, or marked at the unit level, with many different coding typologies, most of which were used for inventory purposes. 

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Since many of these watches issued by the US Navy remain unmarked, it makes it quite difficult for watch scholars of today to determine the military provenance of a given TUDOR, even though official records indicate that very large quantities, in a number of references, were delivered over a span of multiple decades.

A UNIQUE SET OF SPECIFICATIONS

Initially developed in conjunction with active duty combat swimmers, the Pelagos FXD case is based on a set of specifications that are as precise as they are demanding. For this reason, it includes some functional features that are unique in the TUDOR collection, such as its fixed strap bars, which are directly machined into the main body of the 42mm titanium case for increased robustness and reliability. 

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Shaped as an extension of the lugs, they are key to the model's characteristic silhouette. Another feature of this model is the ergonomic 60-notch rotating bezel. Unidirectional with a luminescent material-filled 60-minute-graduated ceramic insert, it corresponds to ISO standard 6425:2018 for divers' watches.

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In aesthetic terms, this Pelagos FXD model is inspired by the TUDOR divers’ watches historically used by US Navy personnel in the late 60’s through early 80’s. It is black in colour and has the characteristic square hour markers and angular hands, known as “Snowflake”, introduced by the brand in 1969 to increase the intensity of the luminescence of its watches in poor light conditions. It also features a unidirectional rotating bezel with a sand-blasted ceramic insert with luminescent material. Its 42mm titanium case is waterproof to 200 meters and is entirely satin-brushed to produce a matt effect to limit light reflections.

A FABRIC STRAP IN PURE NAVY STYLE

Historically, the US Navy oftentimes had their divers fit their TUDOR watches with fabric straps, typically one-piece ones in black or green made out of nylon. The two straps of the Pelagos FXD nod to this military custom of wearing watches on straps rather than bracelets, with a twist. A one-piece green fabric strap with red central thread and self-gripping fastening system comes as the flagship configuration, while an additional black embossed fabric-motif one-piece rubber strap brings a fresh subtle take to a classic look.

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The one-piece fabric strap is one of the hallmarks of TUDOR, which in 2010 became one of the first watchmaking brands to offer it with its watches. Woven in France on 19th century Jacquard looms by the Julien Faure company in the St-Etienne region, its manufacturing quality, robustness and comfort on the wrist are unique. 

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For the Pelagos FXD model, a highly technical strap construction was developed by TUDOR and Julien Faure. Made up of a 22mm forest green nylon woven ribbon with a red central thread, a titanium “D” buckle and a self-gripping fastening system, it adapts to different wrist sizes and is very comfortable to wear.

THE MANUFACTURE CALIBRE MT5602

The Manufacture Calibre MT5602 that drives the Pelagos FXD model displays the hours, minutes and seconds functions. It has the finish typical of TUDOR Manufacture Calibres: its rotor in tungsten monobloc is openwork and satin-brushed with sand-blasted details, while its bridges and mainplate have alternate sand-blasted, polished surfaces and laser decorations.

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Its build has been designed to ensure robustness, longevity, reliability and precision, as has its variable inertia balance, which is maintained by a sturdy traversing bridge with a two-point fixation. Together with its non-magnetic silicon hairspring, the Manufacture Calibre MT5602 is certified as a chronometer by the Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC), with its performance going beyond the standards set by this independent institute. In fact, where COSC allows an average variation in the daily running of a watch of between -4 and +6 seconds in relation to absolute time in a single movement, TUDOR insists on between -2 and +4 seconds’ variation in its running when it is completely assembled.

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Another notable feature is that the power reserve of the Manufacture Calibre MT5602 is “weekend-proof”; that is to say about 70 hours, which enables the wearer to take the watch off on a Friday evening and put it back on again on Monday morning without having to wind it.

THE TUDOR DIVERS’ WATCH

The history of the TUDOR divers’ watch dates back to 1954 with the launch of reference 7922. Waterproof to 100 meters (330 ft), it is the firstborn in a long line of “divers”. Affordable, robust, reliable and precise, it is representative of the tool-watch philosophy of the brand. 

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The seven decades following its introduction have witnessed the constant improvement of this TUDOR divers' watch and those that have gained unanimous acclaim from professionals in the field, including some of the greatest military navies in the world. With the introduction in 2021 of the first generation of Pelagos FXD, TUDOR continues to write its underwater story alongside some of the most elite navy units in the world.

THE TUDOR MANUFACTURE

Every TUDOR watch is assembled and fully tested to TUDOR’s superior standards at the new TUDOR Manufacture located in Le Locle, Switzerland. This new state-of-the-art facility, bringing together the know-how of watchmakers with the best in production management and automated testing systems, was completed in 2021 after three years of construction. All decked out in TUDOR red, the Manufacture spans over four levels totalling more than 5,500 square meters and is physically and visually connected to the neighbouring Kenissi Manufacture, the TUDOR movement production facility founded in 2016. 

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With Kenissi and a network of TUDOR-owned affiliates, the brand has been able to integrate the development and production of high-performance mechanical calibres. As a consequence, TUDOR now fully masters the manufacturing of strategic components and can guarantee their quality.

THE TUDOR GUARANTEE

Since the brand’s creation by Hans Wilsdorf in 1926 and in line with his vision of the ideal timepiece, TUDOR has been ceaselessly creating watches that are as robust, durable, reliable and precise as possible. On the strength of this experience, and confident in the superior quality of its watches, TUDOR offers a five-year guarantee for all its products. This guarantee does not require the watch to be registered or submitted for periodic checks and is transferable. TUDOR also recommends that its watches should be serviced approximately every ten years depending on the model and the extent of its use on a day-to-day basis.

TUDOR IS BORNTODARE

In 2017, TUDOR launched a new campaign with the Born To Dare signature. It reflects both the history of the brand and what it stands for today. It tells the adventures of individuals who have achieved the extraordinary on land, on ice, in the air or underwater, with a TUDOR watch on their wrists. It also refers to the vision of Hans Wilsdorf, the founder of TUDOR, who manufactured TUDOR watches to withstand the most extreme conditions, watches made for the most daring lifestyles.

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It is testimony to TUDOR’s singular approach to watchmaking, which has made it what it is today. At the cutting edge of the watchmaking industry, its innovations are now essential benchmarks. The TUDOR Born To Dare spirit is supported throughout the world by first class ambassadors, whose achievements result directly from a daring approach to life.

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TECHNICAL SPECIFICITIES

Collection: PELAGOS

Model: PELAGOS FXD Titanium

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Reference  25717N

CASE
Titanium case, 42mm in diameter, 12.75mm thick, 52mm from lug to lug
Satin-brushed finish fixed strap bars, steel case back
BEZEL
Unidirectional rotating bezel in titanium with ceramic disc, 60-minute graduation
WINDING CROWN
Titanium crown, adorned with the TUDOR shield in relief
WATERPROOFNESS Waterproof to 200 m (660 ft) 

CALIBRE
Manufacture Calibre MT5602
TOTAL DIAMETER  31.8 mm
THICKNESS  6.5 mm
JEWELS  25 jewels
Self-winding mechanical movement with bidirectional rotor system
POWER RESERVE  Certified 70 hours by METAS
PRECISION
Swiss chronometer officially certified by COSC
(Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute)
Master Chronometer Certification from METAS
FUNCTIONS
Centre hour, minute and seconds hands
Stop-seconds for precise time setting
OSCILLATOR
Variable inertia balance, micro-adjustment by screw
Non-magnetic silicon balance spring
Frequency: 28 800 beats/hour (4 Hz)
DIAL
Matt black dial with applied hour markers filled with grade X1 Swiss Super-LumiNova® luminous material
CRYSTAL Domed sapphire crystal
BRACELET
Fabric strap with self-gripping fastening system, forest green with red central thread, additional black rubber strap with woven motif and titanium pin buckle, included in the box

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Press Release - 2023
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Czapek - Place Vendome Complicite Editions

Czapek & Cie. – Place Vendôme Complicité – “Courage Every Second” 2023 

 PLACE VENDÔME COMPLICITÉ
Two friends, two hearts, one watch

Geneva 2023 – Czapek & Cie unveils Place Vendôme Complicité, a unique reinterpretation of a double escapement combination initially created in 1930 and very rare in wristwatches. Two independent oscillators beat at their own pace, with any rate variations balanced by a differential at 12 o’clock, all beautifully laid out on the dial side.

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The design of the Place Vendôme Complicité is as much the result of a chance encounter, a coincidence (do they really exist?), as it is a technical and artistic feat. Human encounters and the sharing of ideas lie at the heart of everything that Czapek does. As a fundamental value, the Maison defends the concept of établissage – the ecosystem of specialised workshops that once defined the entire watchmaking industry; this enables it to choose the most talented, independent specialists in each of the watchmaking crafts, bringing them together – as a conductor would unite musicians in an orchestra – to create exceptional timepieces. 

For Czapek, suppliers are also partners in creativity and this turned out to be decisive in Place Vendôme Complicité ever becoming a reality.

In Pursuit of Beauty

The idea for the watch was born in 2018 as an evolution of Czapek’s renowned initial models, Quai des Bergues and Place Vendôme; the movement architecture of those pieces translates into a distinctive Czapek ‘face’ with sub-dials at the 7.30 and 4.30 positions on the dial.

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While the technical aspect of the double escapement concept fully visible on the dial side and distributed around the centre was fascinating to Czapek’s CEO Xavier de Roquemaurel – and the group of ‘rare people’ who make up the Maison’s inner circle of collectors, investors and enthusiasts – it’s a guiding principle of Czapek that the beauty of a mechanism is as important as the beauty of the habillage – the dial, hands and case. Consequently, the architecture of every Czapek calibre is designed to unite the technical and aesthetic elements, serving and enhancing both in equal measure.

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The starting point for Complicité was to respect the dial layout of the original Place Vendôme model – on which the two signature sub-dials form the base of a pyramid, completed by a third sub-dial at the apex. An initial sketch was then designed: the escapements would be at 7.30 and 4.30 and the differential that connects them would be at the 12.00 position, with both escapement trains embracing the centre.

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“The real beauty of the idea lies in this way of expressing the double escapement, with the differential at 12 o’clock as a central element,” explains Xavier de Roquemaurel. “And by bringing the mechanism to the dial side and open-working everything, we would also have a beautiful kinetic sculpture.”

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However, building such a movement was easier said than done; after a fruitless search for a watchmaking partner capable of reconciling the aesthetics with the technical demands, the idea was eventually put to one side. And then, one day, a story of family and friendship brought it back to life. Paul, one of Xavier’s children, was in the same school class in Neuchâtel as the daughter of watchmaker Bernhard Lederer, and a mutual friend introduced the two fathers. Their encounter led to a friendship, mutual exchanges of ideas, advice and help and, ultimately, resolved the problem, made the new double escapement architecture possible and gave birth to the watch.

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The name of the new timepiece, Place Vendôme Complicité alludes to this collaboration – as well as to the complicity between two independent escapements working in unison.

Aesthetics and Sophisticated Mechanics: an Unbreakable Bond

The principle of the double escapement regulator is that, with two balance wheels beating independently, and power delivered from a single barrel via a differential, any variation in rate (which may be caused by gravity or various other factors inherent in everyday life) will be cancelled out, thus ensuring greater timekeeping accuracy.

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With the double escapement at its heart, Czapek’s new in-house Calibre 8 is manually wound to provide a power reserve of 72 hours, which is indicated on the dial at 6 o’clock between the balance wheels. Two sapphire bridges reveal the entire gear train on the dial side, protected by a box-style sapphire crystal glass.

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Dominated by distinctive, triangular bridges from which the balances are suspended, the aesthetic blends modernity with tradition, playing with the colours of different metals of various components while drawing the eye deep into the workings of the movement. Naturally, haute horlogerie finishes abound, with traditional handcrafts complemented by more contemporary decorative finishes – not only on the dial side but also on the back of the movement, where 18 inward angles have been hand-bevelled.

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The crown wheel mechanism – a hidden signature of Bernhard Lederer – is integrated into the movement design as a subtle tribute to his contribution to the development of Complicité.

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As a backdrop to the movement, two dial colours are offered: cool tones of grey that create a subtle harmony with a white gold case for the Place Vendôme Complicité Stardust, and a bolder combination that epitomises Czapek’s more adventurous spirit: deep sapphire blue in a rose gold case for the Place Vendôme Complicité Harmony Blue. The satin-brushing of the flange and index ring contrasts with the matte grainé surface of the baseplate.

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Adding contemporary style, the hands are sword-shaped and open-worked, so as not to obstruct the view of the mechanism, and their shape is echoed by the applied hour markers. All are plated in gold to match the case material and tipped with luminescent coating to enhance legibility in low light conditions. In true Czapek style, some almost-hidden details have been added purely for aesthetic effect; for example, looking deep into the movement reveals that the post on which the hands are mounted has been open-worked to create a tiny ‘arcade des heures’ (arcade of the hours).

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Inspired by the cases of Quai des Bergues and Place Vendôme, the case – a relatively compact and very wearable 41.8mm diameter – is a distillation of Czapek’s signature iconography, with sharper lines adding contemporary flair. The eye is caught by a dynamic tension between the flowing curves of the case sides and the crisp angles of the deep recesses on the sides of the lugs, the play of light and shadow amplified by a mix of brushed and polished surfaces. Completing the ensemble, an alligator strap that matches or closely complements the colour of each dial is fastened with a gold folding clasp.

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“Our vision at Czapek is to be at the forefront of the evolution of modern Haute Horlogerie, projecting watchmaking’s heritage into the future,” says Xavier de Roquemaurel. “The connection with the past remains fundamental but we are expressing it in new ways – with the Place Vendôme Complicité being just the latest example of this philosophy” – a philosophy that is underpinned by the values of precision, creativity, openness, collaboration and the love of beauty.

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The first two models of the Place Vendôme Complicité will be offered in limited editions of 50 pieces per iteration.

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About Czapek & Cie
 
François Czapek was a Czech-born Polish watchmaker who fled to Geneva in 1832 after fighting in the Polish uprising. He immediately started his own atelier and in 1839 entered into a partnership with Antoine Norbert de Patek, introducing him to the world of watchmaking. In 1845, at the end of their partnership, he created Czapek & Cie and achieved considerable success. He became the official watchmaker of Napoleon III and opened, what was most likely the first watchmaking boutique on the Place Vendome in Paris. 

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He wrote a book about watchmaking, but unfortunately, he died before publishing a second one. Czapek & Cie has been revived in 2015 with an exceptional collection, whose leading model won the Public Prize in the Grand Prix de l’Horlogerie in Geneva in November 2016. This collection takes its inspiration from an 1850’s Czapek time piece. It features a beautiful enamel dial and a 7-day proprietary movement perfectly combining craftsmanship with design and exclusivity with rarity. The Company second collection, a suspended Tourbillon with a second time-zone, was launched one year later in 2017, while the first Czapek chronograph Faubourg de Cracovie was unveiled at Baselworld 2018. The company is headquartered in Geneva, Switzerland.

#wecollectrarepeople

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TECHNICAL CHARACTERISTICS

Model name:  Place Vendôme Complicité – Harmony Blue

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• Open-work double-escapement with differential gearing at 12 o'clock.  
• Created with the 'Complicité' of Bernhard Lederer.
• Limited edition of 50 pieces.

FUNCTIONS
· Hours, Minutes, Seconds & Power reserve indicator
MOVEMENT
· Calibre 8 created in collaboration with Bernhard Lederer
· Number of parts: 293
· Open-work
· Double escapement with differential gearing and central second
· Power-reserve: 72 hours
· Frequency: 3Hz - 21,600 VpH
· Two variable inertia balance wheels oscillating in opposite directions, with four adjusment screws and four weights
· Balance springs with Breguet terminal curves
· Two Sapphire bridgeswith six rubies setin gold chatons
FINISH
· Hand-beveling on bridges and main plate
· 18 inward angles hand-chamfered
CASE
· 18K 5N Rose gold case with domed sapphire and sandblasted hollowed-outlugs
· Crown protectors
· Diameter: 41,8 mm
· Lug to lug: 48.22 mm
· Height with lugs:14,8 mm
· Height on wrist:13.3 mm
· Perceived height (without glass): 8,8 mm
· Sapphire glass with double anti-reflective treatment
· Water-resistance: 50m (5 atm)
DIAL
· Open-worked with double escapement on a 'Grainé' main plate with blue galvanic treatment
· Circular-grained minutes and hourstrack
· Partially skeletonized sword hands
· Faceted mirror-polished indexes in 5N rose gold
BRACELET
· Alligator strap with 18K 5N rose gold folding buckle

🔴INTERNATIONAL RETAIL PRICE without tax
· CHF 85'000 or $ 100'000 or € 89'000 or £ 77'300

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TECHNICAL CHARACTERISTICS

Model name:  Place Vendôme Complicité – Stardust

 Click, to see the large size. ▶ BIG FOTO 

• Open-work double-escapement with differential gearing at 12 o'clock. 
•  Created with the 'Complicité' of Bernhard Lederer.
• Limited edition of 50 pieces.

FUNCTIONS
· Hours, Minutes, Seconds & Power reserve indicator
MOVEMENT
· Calibre 8 created in collaboration with Bernhard Lederer
· Number of parts: 293
· Open-work
· Double escapement with differential gearing and central second
· Power-reserve: 72 hours
· Frequency: 3Hz - 21,600 VpH
· Two variable inertia balance wheels oscillating in opposite directions, with four adjusment screws and four weights
· Balance springs with Breguet terminal curves
· Two Sapphire bridgeswith six rubies setin gold chatons
FINISH
· Hand-beveling on bridges and main plate
· 18 inward angles hand-chamfered
CASE
· 18K white gold case with domed sapphire and sandblasted hollowed-outlugs
· Crown protectors
· Diameter: 41,8 mm
· Lug to lug: 48.22 mm
· Height with lugs:14,8 mm
· Height on wrist:13.3 mm
· Perceived height (without glass): 8,8 mm
· Sapphire glass with double anti-reflective treatment
· Water-resistance: 50m (5 atm)
DIAL
· Open-worked with double escapement on a 'Grainé' main plate with silver galvanic treatment
· Circular-grained minutes and hourstrack
· Partially skeletonized sword hands
· Faceted mirror-polished indexes in white gold
BRACELET
· Alligator strap with 18K white gold folding buckle

🔴INTERNATIONAL RETAIL PRICE withouttax
· CHF 85'000 or $ 100'000 or € 89'000 or £ 77'300

🔰Edition
Limitation: of 50 pieces

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Press Release - 2023
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Czapek & Cie – 2, Rue Saint-Léger, 1205 Genève Suisse
Contact presse: Valeria Garavaglia Pedroni
Email: valeria@czapek.com | jane@czapek.com (UK)

Tel.  +41 79 314 08 54
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