De Bethune – DB28 XP Kind of Blue Edition

De Bethune – CURRENT DB28 XP ‘Kind Of Blue’ Titanium Limited Edition 2023

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Blending the timeless elegance of the DB28XP with the captivating charm of the DB28 Kind of Blue to create the new DB28XP Kind of Blue, an exceptional timepiece that embodies the perfect fusion of tradition and innovation.

A limited edition of 25 pieces.

[Geneva, August 29, 2023] - On the occasion of the 2023 Geneva Watch Days, De Bethune unveils the new DB28XP Kind of Blue. The independent watchmaker is proud to announce the latest addition to its collection of iconic timepieces. 

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This new creation is the result of the union between the proven elegance of the DB28XP and the timeless charm of the DB28 Kind of Blue, offering watch enthusiasts an exceptional piece that harmoniously combines tradition and innovation.

A natural evolution of excellence

The DB28XP Kind of Blue is the natural evolution of two iconic models from De Bethune: the DB28XP and the DB28 Kind of Blue. 

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It embodies the best of both worlds by combining the sleek design and refinement of the DB28XP with a completely blue look, inspired by the DB28 Kind of Blue and bearing the Manufacture's signature."

A captivating dial

Here, it's all about levels of interpretation, reliefs, and the interplay of light with shadows and reflections. Crafted from blued titanium, the watch reveals an architectural fusion of space, time, and light at first glance. Its deep and luminous blue is achieved through the natural oxidation of the material, making each watch a unique work of art.

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The dial, entirely made of Microlight, reimagines and modernizes traditional guilloché technique. On its expansive flat surface, this technique gains new meaning and enhances the structure. By playing with shadow and light, it adds depth and delivers a more architectural and dynamic result. The overall effect becomes more contemporary.

Ultra-thin according to De Bethune

De Bethune opened a chapter in the world of ultra-thin watches in 2020 with the launch of the DB28XP, celebrating ten years of mechanical and aesthetic research and work. In his pursuit of an ultra-thin timepiece, Denis Flageollet envisioned it as both a technical and aesthetic challenge — the complexity of slimness, an adventure that demands precision and harmony between design and constraints.

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As if by fate, the DB28XP has now become an embodiment of beauty, an elegance that epitomizes purity in its most absolute form.

All of De Bethune's watchmaking expertise

The manual-winding movement DB2115v12 is equipped with the De Bethune balance wheel, visible through the dial thanks to its opening at 6 o'clock. 

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It is the result of De Bethune's constant physical and mathematical approach to improve its operation. It benefits from the latest advancements, with a not overly large diameter, made of titanium and fitted with small gray gold weights placed externally, providing it with remarkable inertia, reliability, and regulating quality.

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Equipped with the renowned De Bethune hairspring, this tiny, extremely thin spring considered the heart of the mechanical watch has been designed to keep its center of gravity precisely in the center by using a flat curve fixed on the outside of the hairspring. Variations in the thickness of the blade contribute to nearly perfect concentric development. 

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Among the numerous advantages are reduced height, improved adjustment of concentricity quality, finer balance wheel adjustment, eliminating the need for pins, and the curved shape even acts as a shock absorber in case of impact.

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Finally, the internal structure of the material remains intact, as it has been neither stressed nor bent. Through these various tried and continually developing enhancements, De Bethune has increased the power reserve efficiency by +20%, bringing it to a total of 6 days, visible through the sapphire glass case back, allowing connoisseurs to marvel at the complexity and beauty of each component.

Equally visible and geometrically positioned relative to the caliber's mainplate, the assembly is protected by the exclusive triple shock-absorbing system. De Bethune was not only the first to design a bridge held from both sides in a symmetrical manner, which keeps the balance wheel perfectly in place, but also to add two shock absorbers at each end, in addition to the balance wheel's own shock absorber. 

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Hence the name 'triple shock absorber,' which, with its springs instead of screws mounted on perfectly polished axes, effectively absorbs and dampens violent impacts.

Comfort and innovation

Like all models in its collection, the DB28XP Kind of Blue never fails to surprise us with the lightweight nature of its case, entirely crafted from polished blue-tinged grade 5 titanium with a microlight caseband, mounted on mobile cradles that adapt to the size and various movements of the wrist, a patented De Bethune system. A more curved caseband, following the wrist's lines. 

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The Microlight finish of the mainplate is echoed on the sides, extending to the outer edge of the caseband, a meticulous and challenging task to achieve in the absence of simple geometric elements. The ensemble is completed with an alligator strap with a titanium buckle, contributing to the practical and comfortable wear of this timepiece. 

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TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS

Collection  CURRENT

Name:  DB28 XP Kind of Blue

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 Reference: DB28XPB

🔰Limited edition of 25 pieces

Case
    Material: Polished grade 5 titanium with “microlight” case middle
    Diameter: 43 mm
    Thickness: 8.5 mm
    Lugs: Polished grade 5 titanium floating lugs – De Bethune Patent (2006)
    Crystal: Sapphire (1,800 Vickers hardness) with double anti-reflective coating
    Caseback: Screwed case back in blued grade 5 polished titanium that opens on a linear power reserve indicator
    Sapphire (1,800 Vickers hardness) with double anti-reflective coating
    Water-resistant to 30 meters (3 ATM)
Dial and hands
    Blued grade 5 polished titanium hours ring with polished rose gold spherical hour-markers
    Blued circular satin-brushed grade 5 titanium minutes ring
    Blued grade 5 polished titanium barrel bridge and blued triangular central bridge guards with straight-grained chamfered contours
    Titanium dial base with “microlight” decoration centred on the balance – De Bethune Innovation (2007)
    Polished rose gold hands
Movement
    Caliber DB2115v12
    Mechanical hand-wound movement
    Adjustment: Winding and setting the time by means of the crown (2 positions)
    Diameter: 30 mm
    Number of parts: 247
    Number of jewels: 36
    Frequency: 28'800 vph (4 Hz)
    Power reserve: 6 days, ensured by a self-regulating twin barrel – De Bethune Innovation (2004)
    Adornment: Hand-crafted finishing and decoration 
 Function
Hours, Minutes, Power reserve on the back
Specificities
    Titanium balance with white gold inserts, optimised for temperature differences and air penetration – De Bethune Patent (2016)
    "De Bethune" balance-spring with flat terminal curve De Bethune Patent (2006)
    Silicon escape wheel
    Triple pare-chute shock-absorbing system – De Bethune Innovation (2005)
Strap and buckle
    Strap: Extra-supple alligator leather with alligator lining
    Buckle: Blued grade 5 polished titanium buckle and pin

🔰Limited edition of 25 pieces

🔴Price: 115,020 EUR / US $ 122,950 💰

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Press release -- Geneva 2023
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De Bethune Geneva Office 
25 Grand-Rue 1204 Geneva
Switzerland
Tel: +41 22 310 22 71
Fax: +41 22 310 33 40
Contact: mailto:press@debethune.com

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AUDEMARS PIGUET – ROYAL OAK “JUMBO” Extra-Thin Openworked 39 mm Yellow Gold

 

AUDEMARS PIGUET – ROYAL OAK “Jumbo” Extra-Thin Openworked 39 mm Yellow Gold - 2023

Le Brassus, October 2023 – The Swiss Haute Horlogerie manufacturer Audemars Piguet expands the Royal Oak “Jumbo” Extra-Thin Openworked line (ref. 16204) with a new model in 18-carat yellow gold. 

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The bright case offers a graceful frame to the state-of-the-art movement, Calibre 7124, ticking within. Its fine openworked architecture, whose yellow-gold-toned hue matches that of the case and bracelet, takes centre stage on both sides of the watch. Enhanced with subtle touches of white gold, this emblematic 39 mm timepiece provides elegant contrasts.

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The new Royal Oak “Jumbo” Extra-Thin Openworked combines an 18-carat yellow gold case and bracelet with an openworked movement in a matching yellow-gold-toned hue. © Courtesy of Audemars Piguet

A REFINED, DAZZLING LOOK

The Royal Oak “Jumbo” Extra-Thin Openworked model launched in 2022 on the occasion of the Royal Oak’s 50th anniversary takes a fresh look this year with its elegant body of 18-carat yellow gold. Keeping with tradition, the 8.1mm-thick timepiece has retained the aesthetic codes of the original model from 1972. Its gold tapering bracelet and 39 mm case are finished with the Manufacture’s graceful alternation of satin brushing and polished chamfers for an infinite play on the light.

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The inner bezel and the movement’s openworked bridges are adorned with a yellow-gold-toned hue matching with the case and bracelet. The dial is enriched with discreet polished white gold hour-markers and hands that recall the white gold hexagonal screws securing the bezel onto the case as well as the gear train seen through the movement’s openworked bridges. The movement’s jewels visible on the dial side add a touch of colour.

Lastly, the Audemars Piguet long-form signature has been printed in black on the sapphire crystal.

A CUTTING-EDGE OPENWORKED MOVEMENT

The selfwinding extra-thin Calibre 7124 brings together precision, performance and age-old openworking expertise. This openworked hour and minute movement measuring a mere 2.7 mm in thickness has been specifically conceived and produced by Audemars Piguet engineers and watchmakers, in parallel of Calibre 7121, to fit in the extra-thin 8.1 mm “Jumbo” case without altering its aesthetic and thickness. 

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It beats at a frequency of 4 Hz and has 57 hours of autonomy when not on the wrist. Its large barrel ensures accuracy for a longer period of time. In addition, it is equipped with a slim openworked oscillating weight in yellow-gold plated 22-carat pink gold, mounted on ball bearings that utilises two reversers1 developed in-house to ensure bidirectional winding. Lastly, inertia blocks have been inserted within the balance wheel to avoid unnecessary friction and enhance performance.

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The openworked architecture of Calibre 7124 is highlighted on the dial and caseback sides. Its fine design was achieved by using advanced technology in conjunction with artisans’ manual dexterity and acute attention to detail. The position and geometries of each component were carefully thought of from the get-go to reach a harmonious and well-balanced openworked aesthetic. 

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The preliminary geometries of the mainplate and bridges were cut through computer numerical control (CNC) machining before they were meticulously touched up to reach the desired shape. The different components were then finished with Haute Horlogerie decorations such as traits tirés, snailing and polished chamfers. The movement’s 247 polished V-shaped angles reflect the rigorous savoir-faire of the Manufacture’s artisans.

THE “JUMBO” AND THE ART OF OPENWORKING

Evolving with each decade, the Royal Oak collection has included more than 50 openworked models to date, fitted with different movements and coming in a variety of sizes, materials and styles – the result of numerous decades of passion and expertise passed down across generations.

While openworking made its debut in the Royal Oak collection in 1981 with a pendant version (Model 5710BA), it truly became part of the collection in the 1990s – a decade that witnessed a wide choice of openworked Royal Oak models.

The first openworked “Jumbo” was launched in 1992. This one-of-a-kind model (14811), whose dial was decorated with a finely chased oak motif, was auctioned off to support the new Audemars Piguet Foundation. Several openworked “Jumbo” models equipped with the extra-thin Calibre 2120 were introduced in very small series until the year 2000. While some models were graced with gemset hands (e.g. 14789, 14793 and 14814), others featured highly stylised designs, such as Models 14884 and 12518 (a unique 125th anniversary creation) which included a naval anchor against a background of stormy waves surrounded by ropes.

Openworking returned in the “Jumbo” collection in 2010 with a stainless steel model (15305), this time equipped with selfwinding Calibre 3129 measuring 4.31 mm in thickness. Two years later, the Manufacture launched a new slate grey openworked “Jumbo” limited edition for the Royal Oak’s 40th anniversary, powered by the new Calibre 5122 which was framed in a 950 platinum case. An 18-carat pink gold version was released in 2014.

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The Royal Oak “Jumbo” Extra-Thin Openworked made its come back in 2022 for the collection’s 50th anniversary. For the occasion, the Manufacture launched two models offered in a choice of stainless steel and 18-carat pink gold, both equipped with the Manufacture’s brand-new selfwinding openworked movement, the Calibre 7124. The yellow gold version released this year follows in their footsteps with its refined golden aesthetic merging ancestral know-how and cutting-edge techniques.

“Seek beyond.”

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TECHNICAL CHARACTERISTICS

Model: ROYAL OAK “JUMBO” Extra-Thin Openworked / 39 mm Yellow Gold

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Reference:  16204BA.OO.1240BA.01

Movement
Selfwinding Manufacture Calibre 7124
Total diameter 29.6 mm (12 ¾ lignes)
Total thickness 2.70 mm
Number of jewels 31
Number of parts 211
Minimal guaranteed power reserve 57 h
Frequency of balance wheel 4 Hz (= 28,800 vibrations/hour)
Functions
Hours and minutes
Case
Diameter: 38mm / Thickness: 18-carat yellow gold casecase
Glare-proofed sapphire crystal and caseback
Water-resistant to 50 m
Dial
Yellow-gold toned inner bezel, white gold applied hour-markers and Royal Oak hands with
luminescent coating.
Bracelet
18-carat Yellow-gold bracelet with AP folding clasp

 New Product Overview 2023

🔴Price: Price on Request  💰

 

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Press Release - 2023
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Audemars Piguet (Marketing) SA
Route de France 16 - Case postale 16
1348 Le Brassus - Switzerland
Phone : + 41 21 642 39 00
Fax : + 41 21 642 34 02
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