Herve Schluchter – L'Essentiel Tree of Life Edition

Hervé Schlüchter – L'Essentiel ‘Tree of Life’ The Philosophical Regulator Limited Edition 

 Note of intent by Hervé Schlüchter
.......
Introducing the "L'Essentiel" watch:
The Philosophical Regulator

  Click, to see the large size. ▶ BIG FOTO 

Hours indicated on a 24-hour philosophical disc in aventurine,
minutes via central regulator hand, and small seconds on a subdial at 6 o'clock.
Two complications: 24-hour philosophical disc, stop lever for time correction.
Three horological specialties: ‘moustache’ lever escapement, Guillaume-type balance,
and wolf’s tooth winding.

A limited edition of 25 pieces.

 Create to endure

1750, today... At that time, watches were created and built for the long term, to last, with the best materials, to stand the test of time. As these objects were destined to accompany several generations, particular care was taken to ensure their longevity and, of course, that they remained a pleasure to admire.

  Click, to see the large size. ▶ BIG FOTO   

When my dad was still alive, he commissioned me to make him a pocket watch, as his granddad always wore one. His request was simple: "I'd like to wear a pocket watch too, and since you make beautiful pieces for others, I'd be delighted if you made one for me". I couldn’t honor his request in time, as he left us before I could even sketch a single line for his watch; too busy and occupied was I, at the time, in my role as a director of watchmaking for a major brand.

  Click, to see the large size. ▶ BIG FOTO   

I was still mourning my father’s passing when I decided to fulfill my dream of independence, and finally started work on his pocket watch. This was the initial impetus for the “Tree of Life” project – and for the first watch, "L'Essentiel" (‘that which is Essential’). Having become a father myself, just two months after mine died, I became inhabited by a deep desire to materialize a philosophy of life.

  Click, to see the large size. ▶ BIG FOTO   

As I started conceiving my father's pocket watch, I almost immediately imagined that it would carry a philosophical message within... What if my great-grandfather's pocket watch also harbored a message for me – and for my children in the future…?

What if we linked watches together...
like members of the same family tree…
And so the seed for the Tree of Life was planted.

  Click, to see the large size. ▶ BIG FOTO   

I was thus going to materialize several watches, mirroring the states of mind that evolve in our lives ever since the human condition began.

Click, to see the large size. ▶ BIG FOTO   

• Childhood – its carefreeness, its magical ability to just be, in the here and now, to live from day to day. It’s a state we strive for throughout our lives.
•       Parents – their/our broader vision,
•         And finally, Grandparents – their wisdom about the passage of time.

  Click, to see the large size. ▶ BIG FOTO   

I knew I wasn’t beginning to work on a watch. I was setting out on a bigger journey.

When it came to the technical approach, the specifications quickly became very clear. The basic postulate was to draw inspiration from the movements of iconic pocket watches, from their majesty and generousness of form. And since I’d chosen to make the components myself, using traditional methods would ensure the creation naturally remained as pure as its intent.

Cutting through to the Essential.

  Click, to see the large size. ▶ BIG FOTO

The name for the watch came naturally – the word kept coming up
in every philosophical, technical and design consideration.

Inspiration for the purity of the design came from leafing through a work by Antide Janvier and coming across a magnificent regulator dating from 1800. I was going to create a regulator. A philosophical one. In a 39mm case.

  Click, to see the large size. ▶ BIG FOTO

I always begin with designing the dial, then I create the movement that corresponds to the watch face I’ve drawn.

The 24-hour disc would thus be the philosophical disc. It would carry the owner’s message, addressed to them and to generations to come.

Drawing up the movement's specifications

I decided to build my caliber on several foundational watchmaking specialties. I wanted my own balance wheel, with proportions identical to those of pocket watches, a Swiss anchor escapement with a ‘moustache’ lever, wolf’s teeth on the ratchet, large and fine and elegant wheels, a spine of mirror-polished steel components, ébauches in silvered maillechort for the same natural feel as the marvelous pocket watches from the golden age of watchmaking, and of course absolute comfort and purity.

  Click, to see the large size. ▶ BIG FOTO

After completing initial calculations and choosing an agreeable frequency of 18,000 vibrations per hour, I turned to the desired thickness for a 39mm watch. 8mm, excluding the crystal, I felt would achieve perfect diameter/thickness proportionality. So began the 3D modelling phase, and the hours spent starting over and over again to ultimately capture this ever-elusive harmony, from the buckle to the crown, and from the crown to the balance wheel.

  Click, to see the large size. ▶ BIG FOTO

Finalizing the technical file together marks the transition between virtual 3D modelling and real materials. Once the countless specific fittings have been carried out, the actual work can finally begin. When you’re creating your own caliber, the extent of all that has to be done upstream before you can even get started is staggering – and it is nowhere to be seen in the final product! At this stage, it takes an unstoppable passion for and an unshakable faith in horology to keep pushing on.

  Click, to see the large size. ▶ BIG FOTO

For months, nothing happens; the movement is lifeless, not even the slightest oscillation. Make. Test. Modify. Repeat. And repeat until perfect. As my master Philippe Dufour taught me, there’s no time limit for doing things right. There’s no room for approximation in this horological quest within the traditional art of watchmaking. Every morning, the material challenges you anew to ‘Excellence’ – and you know you must step up. This speaks to the humility that characterizes the craftspeople who are truly – and daily – immersed in the materials of their art.

The “L'Essentiel” watch is born.

   Click, to see the large size. ▶ BIG FOTO

(In my imagination I never saw it as a watch,
but as philosophical mechanical instrument.)

It may sound strange, but when I must explain the purpose of my work in three words, “philosophical mechanical instrument” always rings true and in tune with my original intention. A living mechanism that keeps track of one’s life (lives), transmitting and safeguarding a philosophical message.

Click, to see the large size. ▶ BIG FOTO   

I would have loved to have been handed down a mechanical instrument by my forebears, something that messages me and guides my steps throughout my existence. To inscribe fundamentals onto a mechanism as one chisels truths into marble. It is a feeling that gives me great comfort and joy because infusing my creations with these wors gives me the chance to keep the light shining on life values: Today, Now, Love & Gratitude.

 Click, to see the large size. ▶ BIG FOTO   

On the watch, I chose Latin as a witness to the past: Hodie (today) and Nunc (now) appear in the sun. Simple, everyday words, but they perfectly express the feeling of childhood. The absolute present, not tomorrow, not 2 hours from now, just now. As for the choice of ‘midnight words’: Amor & Gratia. Love & Gratitude – words that are obvious to me, and very powerful ones that can end a day in a wondrous manner.

A Manifesto of Traditional Horological Art

The choice of materials was of course fundamental – to ensure longevity, comfort, and quality of the exterior for watchmakers who will be caring for my creations in the future. Everything, without exception, abides by the motto: "Creare Durare" - Create to endure.

  Click, to see the large size. ▶ BIG FOTO 

The materials would thus be those reflecting the purest watchmaking tradition, with as few galvanic treatments as possible, to maintain a perfect level of finish over time.

The barrel and the time train

The first element to manifest in the energy sequence of a watch is the barrel and its ratchet wheel. I've always marveled at the wolf’s teeth around crown and ratchet wheels in old pocket watches. This profile adds a special touch to these two components, especially when the teeth are chamfered and polished, and the topside of these two parts is given a sunray finish in the direction of rotation, respecting the mechanical logic and harmony.

  Click, to see the large size. ▶ BIG FOTO

The maillechort (nickel, copper, and zinc alloy) barrel bridge houses the suspended crown wheel and the click’s spring, which is integrated into the bridge. I chose to design a single-piece click that echoed the shape of the barrel bridge.

Click, to see the large size. ▶ BIG FOTO   

After the barrel and its 60-hour power reserve comes the time train, with its large gold-plated spoked wheels – beveled, circular-grained and countersunk on both sides. Here too, I wanted large, majestic wheels and a large, beautiful center wheel. For the 3 wheels of the time train, I wanted a common logic to their bridges and consistency in the finishes, by creating a bridge for each wheel – like the calibers of iconic pocket watches. I wanted to graphically represent a spine of mirror-polished steel bridges, as slender and elegant as possible, with their arms cradled, as a figure of style. The center bridge thus provides the movement’s axis of symmetry, responding to the curve on the barrel and balance bridge. Curves and shapes, simple and direct.

Balanced lever escapement and regulating organ

After the time train, come the escapement and its specialties, a tribute to traditional horological art. The escape wheel is of the traditional shape and works I concert with the counterpoised lever. In fine watches, this type of anchor exacted a level of filing and polishing indicative of the care given even to the smallest details of execution. I decided to incorporate this type of anchor for reasons of aesthetics and craftsmanship and opted for the mustache-shaped lever. It's both surprising and pleasing to see a ‘moustache’ anchor in action, and quite rare these days.

Click, to see the large size. ▶ BIG FOTO   

The intent with the watch’s regulating organ was to bridge the past with the present. That's why I took my inspiration from the specific shape of marine chronometer balances, with their four inertia blocks and adjusting screws. Its dimensions would correspond to what used to be the norm, i.e. occupy about the same space as the movement’s radius. To enable collectors to check the accuracy of their watches, I fitted the movement with a stop lever that passes through the movement and halts the regulating organ when setting the time. The finesse and length of this spring is a delight of mechanical lightness.
 
The system for holding the stud is a small mechanism that enables the reference point to be finely adjusted simply by turning an eccentric on the balance bridge. The adjustable stud holder and its swan-neck spring are made of steel and chamfered, with the top surfaces mirror-polished.

Click, to see the large size. ▶ BIG FOTO   

Beneath the heart of the watch are two personalized plates, hand-engraved with "Tree of Life", "L'Essentiel", and "Creare Durare".

The 24-hour aperture reveals the unfolding days, with its "hidden" words for future generations. I chose Latin to give them a hint of mysteriousness. Hodie Nunc (Today Now); Amor & Gratia (Love & Gratitude).

Click, to see the large size. ▶ BIG FOTO   

This philosophical disc was a real challenge, as it’s made of aventurine with the sun and moon metallized in gold and silver, all pad-printed. The choice of aventurine and its starry sky effect is perfectly suited to this open window on time, our personal, intimate time. As for the other dials, I wanted to use Grand Feu enamel and guilloché in my first creation. These are magical, timeless crafts. Grand Feu enamel, with its immortal character, allows the dials to be domed, enhancing the generousness of L'Essentiel. The central dial is in maillechort (nickel, copper, and zinc alloy) with a hand-turned guilloché. One of my dreams, to learn the art of guillochage, came true thanks to the relationship based on transmitting savoir-faire I have with the master of this art, Georges Brodbeck.

Click, to see the large size. ▶ BIG FOTO   

The hands are traditionally crafted, finesse being one of the hallmarks of elegance. The regulator hand, indicating the minutes, sits at the center of the slender mechanical instrument. They are flame-blued, the old-fashioned way, and the slight variations in color give each its uniqueness.

The case, the bracelet and the buckle.

The case is, of course, one of the elements that demands a great deal attention to detail, particularly in terms of ergonomics. Great care has been given to the elegance of the lugs, the right slope, the right proportions and the right positioning on the wrist. Engraved on the crown and buckle, the stylized HS. The pin buckle follows the same logic of alternating polished with straight-grained surfaces. All case and buckle components are in stainless steel for this limited edition of 25 pieces.

Click, to see the large size. ▶ BIG FOTO   

L'Essentiel is delivered in a sober case crafted from chocolate Barenia leather bearing the philosophical mechanical instrument’s serial number; inside, the certificate of authenticity and a set of spare straps.

To share the first act of the Tree of Life project, what better time than the Summer Solstice.

---------------------------------------
TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS

 Name of the watch: L’Essentiel  ‘Tree of Life’

 

Exterior

Components: 45
Case: Stainless steel, 3-piece case design, pressed case back 

Horizontal satin-finished case band with polished lugs, polished bezel and case back. 

Sapphire crystal, double-sided antireflective coating.
Case dimensions: 39 mm
Height: 10.37mm
Water resistance: 3 ATM (30 meters, 100 FT)
Crown: Stainless steel, polished with engraved logo.
Strap: Black alligator, hand-stitched; inner in red alligator, small scales. 
Buckle: Stainless steel, hand-engraved logo, satin-finished top and bottom. 

Polished edges, hammered pin support. Polished pin, flanks satin-finished.

Display

• Central dial: Maillechort (nickel, copper, and zinc alloy), hand-turned guilloché decoration; hand-engraved HS logo; hand-chamfered peripher. Flanks straight-grained, underside circular-grained.
• Hour and seconds aperture: Steel, hardened-tempered and whitened by hand, hooped. Bevels and countersinks, hand-made and polished; flanks straight-grained.
• Minute and seconds dial: White Grand Feu enamel, glossy black transfers. Flanks straight-grained, underside circular-grained. 
• Minute and seconds hands : Steel, hardened-tempered and whitened by hand, flame-blued. Balanced; bevels and countersinks, hand-made and polished. Cannons, countersunk and polished.
• Philosophical disc: Aventurine, mounted on notched crown. Gold plating for the Sun; silver plating for the Moon. Latin philosophical inscription: on the Sun, Hodie Nunc (Today Now); and on the moon, Amor & Gratia (Love & Gratitude).

Movement

Name: Caliber HS-01
Diameter: 34.60mm / 15½ ‘lignes’
Height: 7.38mm (including switch)
Number of components: 189
Complications: 2/ 24-hour philosopher's disk, stop seconds lever
Watchmaking specialties: 3/ Swiss lever escapement, counterpoised ‘moustache’ lever. Wolf’s teeth on ratchet and crown wheel. Guillaume-type ‘Homage’ balance wheel.
Number of jewels: 27
Power reserve: 60 hours
Frequency: 18’000 vibrations/hour

Technical Details, components

• Barrel: Quick-rotating, fixed flange; drum circular-grained, flanks straight-grained, interior circular-grained, lid circular-grained.
• Ratchet and crown wheel: Wolf’s-tooth profile, topside sunray-finished, underside circular-grained; teeth hand-polished. 
• Click-spring: Mirror-polished, hand-chamfered; screws countersunk, flanks straight-grained, circular-grained.
• Wheels: 3N gold-plated ARCAP spokes; polished bevels; circular-grained; diamond-coated inside and out, straight-fluted.
• Pinions: Traditionally manufactured; hardened-tempered and whitened by hand. Leaves and shafts, hand-polished, burnished.
• Escapement: Swiss lever escapement; ‘moustache’ lever, mirror-polished, chamfered, flanks straight-grained. Escape wheel, mirror-polished. Endstone plate, mirror-polished. Bevels and moldings, hand-made and polished.
• Pendulum: Guillaume-type (diameter 14.10mm). Variable inertia with adjusting weights.
• Spiral: Phillips terminal curve. Stud holder, eccentric fine-adjustment.

Ebauches and bridges

 Click, to see the large size. ▶ BIG FOTO 

• Plate: Maillechort (nickel, copper, and zinc alloy), hand-engraved with 'Hervé Schlüchter' and 'Bienne’. 'Work No.', hand-engraved under the regulating organ. Circular-graining, top and bottom; recesses circular-grained, flanks straight-grained. Countersinks hand-turned and polished; flanks straight-grained.
• Barrel, escapement and balance bridges: Maillechort (nickel, copper, and zinc alloy). Côtes de Genève or graining; underside circular-grained, chamfered. Countersinks hand-turned and polished; flanks straight-grained.
• Center wheel, intermediate wheel, and seconds wheel bridges: Steel, hardened-tempered and whitened by hand, mirror-polished, chamfered, balanced. Countersinks hand-turned and polished; flanks straight-grained. Olive-domed jewels, set in 18K yellow gold chatons.
• Anchor bridge: Maillechort (nickel, copper, and zinc alloy); underside straight-grained, chamfered. Countersinks hand-turned and polished; flanks straight-grained. Studs and underside circular-grained.
• Plaquettes « Ailes d’ange » sous le balancier:

  Maillechort gravé main « Tree of Life », « L’Essentiel » et « Creare Durare ». Ecritures dorées 3N, cerclées, anglées. Moulures réalisées et polies main, perlé dessous.

• Serial No. plate: 18K yellow gold, number hand-engraved, circular-grained, chamfered. Countersinks, hand-turned and polished; underside circular-grained.

🔰 Edition
Limited edition of 25 watches. Already sold-out ⚠️

=============================== 

Click, to see the large size. ▶ BIG FOTO   

International Press Relations:
289 Consulting
Marine Lemonnier-Brennan
T +41 79 389 67 62
marine.lemonnier@289consulting.com
Eva Polat
mailto:eva.polat@289consulting.com
--------------------------------------
-www.instagram.com - Herve_Schluechter 
 ==================================
www.Herve-Schluchter.ch 

FERDINAND BERTHOUD – Chronometre FB 3 Only Watch 2023 Unique Piece

 

FERDINAND BERTHOUD – CHRONOMÉTRIE FB 3 Only Watch 2023 Unique Piece

 HRONOMÈTRE FB 3 “ONLY WATCH”

For its second participation in Only Watch, Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud is offering a new version of the FB3 collection: a one-of-a-kind model presented in a patinated bronze case, a tribute to the ‘Master Watchmaker’ title granted to Ferdinand Berthoud just 270 years ago.

 Click, to see the large size. ▶ BIG FOTO  

The five one-of - a - kind models in the FB 1R Regulator collection unveiled in 2018 generated considerable enthusiasm at the time of their launch. Their bronze cases featured five different patinas, as if they had just emerged after a long stay in the underwater depths – a tribute to the world of onboard marine chronometers once developed by Ferdinand Berthoud himself.

 Click, to see the large size. ▶ BIG FOTO 

Since then, Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud has unveiled new movements, the latest of which powers the FB 3 collection. The conditions were therefore ripe for the creation of a model that would unite these latest developments: a one-of - a - kind timepiece in patinated bronze, driven by a balance with a cylindrical balance-spring chronometer-certified by the COSC. Thus emerged the idea of the Chronomètre FB 3 "Only Watch", which will be put up for bidding at the eponymous auction to be held in Geneva on 5 November.

One-of-a-kind anniversary model

Several months of preparation and testing were necessary to achieve the patinated bronze case of the Chronomètre FB 3 Only Watch. The colour and nuances are unprecedented and evoke to the discerning gaze the patina that naturally develops on the copper alloys of the precision and navigation instruments supplied by Ferdinand Berthoud during the 18 t h century.

 Click, to see the large size. ▶ BIG FOTO 

This patina symbolises the passage of time and celebrates an anniversary: in 1753, exactly 270 years ago, Ferdinand Berthoud received the ‘Master Watchmaker’ title, at the age of just 26. This one- of - a - kind anniversary watch will be of fered at the tenth edition of Only Watch. This is a rare opportunity, as the current capacities of the Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud workshops only allow for the production of around 30 timepieces in this collection per year.

Click, to see the large size. ▶ BIG FOTO

Beating inside the FB 3 "Only Watch" model is the world’s only calibre with a cylindrical balance- spring of ficially chronometer- certified by the COSC, a clear tribute to the quest for precision initiated by Ferdinand Berthoud. Many months of research, testing and fine-tuning were necessary to define the number of coils and the geometry of the terminal curve at the attachment points.

Click, to see the large size. ▶ BIG FOTO

This new mechanical hand - wound movement stems from more than three years of research and development. Appearing at 9 o'clock, the three main escapement organs – the balance-wheel, pallet - lever and escape-wheel – are thus individualised, distinct and prominent. 

 Click, to see the large size. ▶ BIG FOTO   

This ample space dedicated to the regulating organ enables its operation to be admired in full, and the cylindrical balance- spring to be seen beating throughout the three-day power reserve, including through a large por thole created in the case middle at 9 o'clock.

Colour filiation

The finishing associated with the FB 3 "Only Watch" model (ref . FB 3SPC. 5) is tailored to reflect the colour codes of the 2023 edition of this charity auction. More than 100 hours of work were required to decorate the movement, which features 3N yellow gilded components. The blue colour is picked up on the gold hands with CVD treatment. 

 Click, to see the large size. ▶ BIG FOTO 

Pink hues are found on the jewels visible on the dial side. Two straps will be delivered with this one- of - a - kind model: an aged calf leather strap recalling the patina of the case; and a dark green alligator strap in harmony with the Only Watch 2023 colour char t. The caseback features a special "ONLY WATCH PIECE UNIQUE" engraving, recalling the exceptional character of this creation.

 -------------------------------------------
TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS

Model:  CHRONOMÈTRE FB 3 Bronze “Only Watch” 2023 Unique Piece

 Click, to see the large size. ▶ BIG FOTO  

 Ref. FB 3SPC.5 

CASE

• Round case in brown patinated bronze with a transparent sapphire ‘porthole’ at 9 o’clock

Total diameter: 42.30 mm
Thickness: 9.43 mm
Water resistance: 30 metres
Crown diameter: 8.50 mm
Crown in brown patinated bronze with FB logo in titanium
Exhibition back in sandblasted titanium fitted with a glare-proofed sapphire crystal pane
Domed sapphire crystal glare-proofed on both sides
DIAL
Eggshell-coloured peripheral inner bezel ring for the hours and minutes, in sandblasted silver-toned brass
Eggshell-coloured seconds subdial at 6 o’clock, in sandblasted silver-toned brass
Sandblasted and 3N gilded visible components of Calibre FB-SPC
Hands
Facetted and skeletonised and open-tipped hours and minutes hands in 18-carat gold with blue CVD treatment
Seconds hand with counterweight in 18-carat gold with blue CVD treatment
Arrow-shaped power-reserve hand in 18-carat gold with blue CVD treatment 

 FUNCTIONS
• Central display of the hours and minutes, seconds at 6 o’clock and power reserve at 2 o’clock

Click, to see the large size. ▶ BIG FOTO

MOVEMENT

Mechanical hand-wound ...................................................................................................Calibre FB-SPC
Diameter.......................................................................................................................................37.30 mm
Thickness .......................................................................................................................................6.84 mm
Lignes ....................................................................................................................................................15’’’
Jewels ........................................................................................................................................................ 47
Frequency ........................................................................................................................21,600 vph (3 Hz)
Power reserve ................................................................................................................................ 72 hours
Number of components ........................................................................................................................230
Number of bridges ....................................................................................................................................16

TECHNICAL CHARACTERISTICS

• Slip-spring barrel (automatic uncoupling when maximum power reserve is reached)
• Variable-inertia balance with four fine-adjustment screws and 12 load screws
• Cylindrical balance-spring with hand-crafted Berthoud terminal curves
• Swiss lever escapement
• Crown-activated stop-seconds mechanism
• Mainplate and bridges in sandblasted nickel silver
• Hand-finished to the highest watchmaking standards

Officially chronometer-certified by the COSC

Strap

• Two straps (125 x 70 mm – other sizes available on request)

Dark green alligator leather strap
Chestnut brown aged calfskin leather

• 18 mm pin buckle in sandblasted titanium

🔰Limited Edition to 1 piece
Limitation: Unique piece for Only Watch 2023

 🔴Price    Lot 22    Estimated at CHF 160,000 - CHF 180,000 💰

 ------------------------
www.OnlyWatch.com
-------------------------------------

 =====================--
Press Release - 2023
-------------------------------------
-------------------------------------------------------------

Chronométrie FERDINAND BERTHOUD SA
Rue des Moulins 20
Case postale 128
2114 Fleurier, Val-de-Travers (NE)
Switzerland
-------------------------------------------------------------------
www.facebook.com - Ferdinand Berthoud 
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
www.FerdinandBerthoud.ch