VACHERON CONSTANTIN – PATRIMONY Retrograde Day-Date Platinum

 

VACHERON CONSTANTIN – PATRIMONY Retrograde Day-Date Platinum 42.5mm Salmon Dial 2023

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• A minimalist design inspired by special retrograde displays from the 1920s and 1930s.
• Understatement, harmony and elegance highlighted by the association between the platinum of the case and the salmon pink shade of the dial, a signature from the Maison.
• Calibre 2460 R31R7/3, a manufacture self-winding movement in the purest tradition of Haute Horlogerie.

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At Vacheron Constantin, technique is consistently dedicated to serving elegance. Since its founding in 1755, the Manufacture has cultivated the refinement of its watches as an art form, corresponding to one of the Bauhaus principles holding that "less is more". This is reflected in the platinum Patrimony retrograde day-date with salmon-coloured dial. 

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With its rare combination of retrograde complications evoking the iconoclastic displays of the 1920s and 1930s, this timepiece excels in its field.

In the purest Vacheron Constantin style

Imagining a timeless style is a quest that Vacheron Constantin has been pursuing since its foundation, as is once again demonstrated by this new Patrimony retrograde day-date watch in 950 platinum with a salmon-coloured dial. 

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Heir to the grand stylistic and technical tradition of the Maison, this limited annual production timepiece reveals meticulous attention to detail in which the expression of minimalism is combined with technical excellence. 

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The 42.5 mm-diameter 950 platinum case frames a salmon-coloured dial with a sunburst pattern reflecting the codes of the collection. The purity of the design matches the model’s mechanical and aesthetic sophistication.

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Every detail is designed to reflect the aesthetic characteristics of Vacheron Constantin. Beneath the 12 o'clock hour-marker sits a facetted Maltese cross in relief, the emblem of the Maison. 

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Crafted in 18K 5N pink gold, it features facets that are sandblasted on one side and polished on the other, offering a new expression of the Vacheron Constantin symbol specific to this signature platinum case and salmon-coloured dial. 

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The two retrograde (day and date) indications are made with blued steel hands in keeping with tradition, while the hours and minutes are displayed by 18K white gold hands. In classic 1950s style, the latter are subtly curved to match the shape of the domed dial with its intense reflections. 

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The circular-grained peripheral minutes track is also inspired by this era in a revisited version. From the very first glance, this timepiece embodies the refined style cultivated by Vacheron Constantin.

Salmon-coloured dial, a Vacheron Constantin signature

The development of coloured dials – from the 1930s onwards – enabled a new style of elegance to be displayed on the wrist. 

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Featured in Vacheron Constantin watches since the 1940s, salmon-coloured dials make an ideal match with cases in white metal: particularly steel, notably with the legendary chronograph Reference 4178; as well as platinum, with which it forms a rare combination sought after by collectors and devotees of rare models. The combination of platinum case and salmon-coloured dial was picked up in the 1990s, again in conjunction with complications, such as the classic chronograph Reference 47101 and the 1992 self-winding perpetual calendar chronograph Reference 49005.

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This alliance between platinum and salmon is thus part of the Maison’s heritage and since 2022 has been the sign of a new aesthetic that can be found across its various collections in limited annual production.

The spirit of the new Patrimony retrograde day-date thus draws its aesthetic and technical inspiration from tradition while revisiting it.

In-House calibre 2460 R31R7/3, the essence of Haute-Horlogerie

The Patrimony retrograde day-date is driven by in-house self-winding calibre 2460 R31R7/3 operating at a rate of 28,800 vibrations per hour. 

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It is fitted with a 22K gold openworked oscillating weight with a design inspired by the Maltese cross emblem and has an approximately 40-hour power reserve. In the grand tradition of in-house calibres, the bridges are finished with hand-polished angles. 

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Straight-graining, which consists of perfectly smoothing the component flanks, is also performed by hand, while the screws are meticulously polished. 

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The mainplate is circular-grained on both sides, while the bridges are adorned on the back with the Côtes de Genève motif.

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Sum-up

With its original combination of retrograde complications evoking the iconoclastic displays of the 1920s and 1930s, the new Patrimony retrograde day-date in 950 platinum with a salmon-toned dial perpetuates a refined style. 

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Elegance and technicality are highlighted by a dial colour exclusively associated with timepieces featuring a 950 platinum case in limited annual production and only available in Vacheron Constantin boutiques.

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Interview with Christian Selmoni

When did the first retrograde indications at Vacheron Constantin appear?

Even though the Manufacture has in-depth knowledge of its archives, it is possible that certain timepieces have not yet been discovered. That being said, the first wristwatch to feature a retrograde date was the Don Pancho, nicknamed by collectors after the person for whom it was commissioned. 

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In 1935, the Maison received an order from Brooking, its official retailer in Madrid, for a wristwatch with functions that were previously reserved for pocket watches featuring complications: a minute repeater and calendar indications, with a retrograde hand. It took four years until 1940 to meet this order and deliver Reference 3620, now known as the Don Pancho: a tonneau-shaped wristwatch in yellow gold, distinguished by its crown at 12 o'clock and its minute repeater with deliberately low tones, activated via a right-hand slide piece.

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Don Pancho wore it for seven years and it then vanished for 60 years before reappearing in 2019 at Phillips, Bacs & Russo where it attracted the second highest bid ever for a wristwatch from the Maison.  Another remarkable model unveiled in 1994 which highlights the craze for unusual dials is the Mercator watch. A tribute to the 16th century geographer Gérard Mercator, this creation features a double retrograde display of trailing hours and minutes on an enamelled or engraved dial. The positioning of the hand axis at 12 o'clock provides an ideal surface for expression on this model from the Métiers d'Art collection.

Why is the Don Pancho so important in the history of Vacheron Constantin?

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Aurel Bacs who auctioned it in 2019 explained it in very clear terms: "The historical importance of this timepiece cannot be stressed enough. Made at a time when wristwatches with multiple complications simply did not exist, it is a technical feat and a masterpiece of human genius. The combination of a minute repeater and a calendar with retrograde date had never previously been seen in a wristwatch, and it would be nearly 60 years before we saw something similar." 

Vacheron Constantin wristwatches with retrograde date made a comeback in the early 2000s with Reference 47245, presented to mark the 245^th anniversary of the Manufacture and which featured a retrograde date but a day display via an auxiliary dial at 6 o'clock and a trailing hand. 

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The system of displaying the date by retrograde hands offers advantages in terms of legibility but is technically very complex to implement. It was not until 2006 that the first double retrograde day-date wristwatch was produced, Reference 86020.

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Technical Specifications

Collection: PATRIMONY

Model: PATRIMONY Retrograde Day-Date Platinum

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REFERENCE 4000U/000P-H003


CALIBER 2460 R31R7/3
Developed and manufactured by Vacheron Constantin
Mechanical, self-winding
25.6 mm (11¼’’’) diameter, 5.4 mm thick
Approximately 40 hours of power reserve
4 Hz (28,800 vibrations per hour)
276 components
27 jewels

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Hallmark of Geneva certified timepiece
INDICATIONS Hours, minutes
Retrograde day of the week and date
CASE
950 Platinum
42.5 mm diameter, 9.7 mm thick
Transparent sapphire crystal caseback
Water-resistance tested at a pressure of 3 bar (approx. 30 meters)
DIAL
Salmon
Dial finish:  Sunray
Salmon-coloured with sunburst finishing
Convex external zone with external minute-circle composed of fine diamond-polished 18K white gold pearls
18K white gold applied hour-markers and hour & minutes hands
Blued steel date and day hands
STRAP
Dark blue Mississippiensis alligator leather with calf inner shell, tone-to-tone stitching, square scales
BUCKLE
950 platinum folding clasp
Polished half Maltese cross-shaped

✅Available exclusively from Vacheron Constantin boutiques.

🔴Price   EUR 70,000.00 Tax Excluded💰

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Press Release - 2023
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Vacheron Constantin
Press Department
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P.O. Box 95
CH-1228
Plan-les-Ouates/Geneva
Tel. +41 22 930 20 05
Fax +41 22 930 20 06
press@vacheron-constantin.com
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KUDOKE – Grail Watch 8 Kudoke 2 “Starry Night” Edition

 

KUDOKE – HANDwerk Grail Watch 8 – KUDOKE 2 “Starry Night” Limited Edition in Collaboration with Grail Watch 2023

 “Starry Night” – Limited Edition
words by Wei Koh, Founder of Revolution, 

The Rake and Grail Watch

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It gives us great pleasure to announce our very first collaboration with independent watchmaker Stefan Kudoke. Named Grail Watch 8: Kudoke 2 ‘Starry Night,’ it is a 30-piece limited edition based on the Geneva Grand Prix award-winning Kudoke 2, reimagined with new details and a color palette evocative of Vincent van Gogh’s most famous painting.

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Kudoke 2 features a wonderful sense of restrained, German neoclassical watchmaking design, complemented by a touch of poetry — a sky disk at 12 o’clock indicating 24 hours, with a display of day and night. Measuring 39mm by 10.7mm, it features Stefan’s in-house movement, the Kaliber 1-24H.

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A star engraving sits within the infinity symbol on the balance cock, a subtle reference to the Starry Night inspiration

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This movement represents an important act of democratization for stunning handmade finishing. It includes a hand-frosted movement bridge, mirror-polished angles, a hand-engraved balance cock, snail-finished barrels, all in a far more accessibly priced package than these crafts are normally associated with.

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Since its launch in 2019, I have been deeply enamored with this timepiece and consider it an enormous honor to be able to collaborate with Kudoke on this watch. Our version, nicknamed “Starry Night,” is inspired by the seminal work of Post-Impressionist painter Vincent van Gogh, in particular the swirling vortex of luminous stars that he saw above him as a patient at the Saint-Paul-de-Mausole asylum.

STARRY NIGHTS

Smitten by Stefan and Ev’s charming brand of watchmaking, two years ago during the COVID pandemic, I managed to get them on a Zoom call. Considering the massive popularity of their brand, I want to thank them for entertaining me. When asked what we might potentially collaborate on, somehow the topic turned to art, and I professed a love for Vincent van Gogh’s painting, 

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The artist was severely depressed and suffered psychotic episodes and delusions. The Starry Night painted in June of 1889, when he was a patient at the Saint-Paul-de-Mausole asylum, is his masterwork. Stefan and Ev stated that they, too, were huge fans of Van Gogh and of this painting in particular. And with that, we had our source of inspiration.

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We decided to create a “Starry Night” version of the Kudoke 2 by first selecting a prevailing blue color theme for the watch. The grade 5 titanium case of the timepiece is first finished to perfection with mirror polishing and a vertical sliff on its flanks and bottom before being sent to Positive Coating on La Chaux-de-Fonds, where it is treated with CVD. This creates a kind of ethereal blue to the titanium that is incredibly reflective of light, yet is translucent enough for you to see all the details of the finish to the case.

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Then we decided on a dial which would feature a twisted guilloché pattern reminiscent of that found in the center of the sky portrayed in the painting. This is painted a translucent blue color as well, echoing the chromatic theme of the artwork.

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Next, we applied three colors of Super-LumiNova to the watch: bright green for the infinity-shaped hour and minute hands and the raised chapter ring with the indexes, laser beam blue for the moon, stars and 24-hour chapter ring of the day/night indicator, and white for the little triangle on the night side to indicate the actual hour of day or night. All three of these luminous colors echo those found in Van Gogh’s painting. The result is a watch that explodes into life when you enter a dark environment.

GRAIL WATCH’S CREATIVE MANTRA

The concept of Luminous Signature is the third code in Grail Watch’s creative mantra. It was first expressed in our collaboration with Trilobe in a watch called Une Folle Soirée, where the three time-telling disks and all the angles of the baseplate had been treated in Super-LumiNova. 

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Before that, we had created two Bvlgari Octo Finissimo Chronographs with fully luminous dials. Earlier this year, we launched the Chronoswiss Opus Blue, also with a CVD treated grade 5 titanium case and a luminous skeleton dial. 

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While the movement of the Kudoke 2 has gone through different incarnations, we decided that the beauty of Stefan’s original British yellow gold-treated, frosted three-quarter plate and hand-engraved balance cock simply could not be surpassed. As such, we decided on this finish for his stunning movement.

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Grail Watch 8: Kudoke 2 ‘Starry Night’ proudly expresses Grail Watch’s design code of a Luminous Signature, channeling the creative spirit of the great Post-Impressionist artist Vincent van Gogh. Created with two of the coolest people in the watch industry, this watch will be made in just 30 examples and is priced at EUR 13,300 nett.

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Apart from the new blue CVD treated grade 5 titanium case, blue PVD coated guilloché and special luminous indications, it also comes with three straps — a gray Alcantara strap selected by Stefan and Ev, a Delugs for Grail Watch Denim Babele strap and a fantastic Delugs Cut-To-Size navy blue rubber strap. The last allows you to wear the fantastic titanium timepiece in more sporting environments, as I did with the prototype in the waters of the Maldives, thanks to the watch’s 50 meters of water resistance.

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I hope you enjoy wearing this watch as much as we have loved creating it for you!

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Technical Specifications

Collaboration Collection: HANDwerk

 

Model: Grail Watch 8 Kudoke 2 “Starry Night” Edition

 Case
    Blue CVD treated grade 5 titanium W: 39mm, H: 10.7mm
    Polished stainless steel with brushed flanks and case-back
    Fluted onion crown
    Convex sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating
    Sapphire crystal exhibition caseback
    5 ATM/50m water resistance
Dial
Blue “twisting vortex” guilloché with chapter rings, moon and stars coated filled in Super-LumiNovalued Blued steel hands
Movement
Movement
    In-house Kaliber 1-24h manual winding
    W: 30mm, H: 5.05mm
    18 jewels
    28,800 vib/h (4Hz)
    46 hours power reserve
    Hand engraved wheel bridge
    Frosted balance cock
Strap
Grey Alcantara with bovine calf lining and Blue stitching, with quick release spring bars, Delugs "Navy CTS Rubber", Delugs "Denim Babele Signature Watch Strap (Delugs for Grail Watch)"; pin buckle blue CVD treated grade 5 titanium

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🔰 Limited Edition of only 30 pieces 

🔴 Price: € 13.300,00 / $ 14,700.00 ex tax💰 More information at 👉 [DISCOVER]

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Grailwatch.com
@grailwatchofficial
Email shop@grailwatch.com for enquiries.

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Press Release - 2023
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Kontakt: Ev Kudoke
☎️ +49 35951 347261 
📭 ev@kudoke.eu
KUDOKE UHREN,
Inhaber Stefan Kudoke,
Wilthener Weg 17a, 01904 Weifa,
Germany
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